Cam chain replacement... is there an easy way?

[CZroe]

I'm pretty sure my chain is out of spec. I've got a lot of miles and a lot of rattle that only goes away for a little while when I reset my CCT. I'm going to try another CCT first but, if the replacement is needed, I wonder: Can I get away with doing what this video shows using just my Stockton chain tool set instead of paying a mechanic for all the labor, parts (those gaskets are expensive!), etc?

Link to original page on YouTube.

I don't have the ability to weld but my chain tool has a cam chain pin and can press pins back in.

Paging Mr. "valve jobs are easy" @alex.s

Edit: Oh! My Clymer manual says that there is no factory spec for replacement for the newgen-J, though it does list it for the pregen-F. Other than "trying everything else first," how can I be sure that it needs replacement? It did sound exactly like Alex described his sounding when his was way out of spec and his experience tells me that I would have to take top end off just to measure anyway. Without official specs: No way!

[alex.s]

seen it, person is lazy/crazy. wouldn't do that to my cam chain unless i was stranded in a war zone trying to get away from a nuclear weapon. i replaced my cam chain (engine out, top/bottom off) in about 5 hours. its not hard if you know what you are doing and don't doddle and waste time.

as far as actually needing to replace it, my feeling is this; if you don't, the chain will continue getting worse which means louder which means its beating up those chain guides. stretching also means that its retarding the valve timing. i don't think any real direct damage will happen from having it stretched but that **** sure is annoying.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I'm pretty sure my chain is out of spec...........

Have you actually measured the elongation of the chain all around?

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by alex.s

seen it, person is lazy/crazy. wouldn't do that to my cam chain unless i was stranded in a war zone trying to get away from a nuclear weapon. i replaced my cam chain (engine out, top/bottom off) in about 5 hours. its not hard if you know what you are doing and don't doddle and waste time.

as far as actually needing to replace it, my feeling is this; if you don't, the chain will continue getting worse which means louder which means its beating up those chain guides. stretching also means that its retarding the valve timing. i don't think any real direct damage will happen from having it stretched but that **** sure is annoying.

Thanks. Would it be any less crazy to break and make the chain using proper chain tools? I guess the total just goes up: CCT, guides, chain, gaskets, etc...

Originally Posted by Motofool

Have you actually measured the elongation of the chain all around?

Alex (above) tried that and got a completely different measurement than when removed. The other problem is that I don't know what the measurement is supposed to be. For the newgen-J the Clymer manual says "The manufacturer does not provide chain wear specifications." For the pregen-F it says "Refer to Table 1 for specifications" where is says 20-link/21-pin measurement should be less than 128.9mm. Is it the same for the pregen/newgen?

[alex.s]

dont bother replacing the chain guides. but you might need to replace the cam sprockets if the chain is really that far gone.
if you remove the cams to measure you will get an accurate measurement. the chain needs to be flat/straight and pulled tight when measuring. center of a pin to center of a pin (20 pins). 126mm is new IIRC, 129mm is out of spec and will sound like credit card in a plastic fan.
if you can hear the chain hitting the case on the opposite side as the CCT then its probably out of spec. unless you pull your CCT out and its completely depressed (not extended at all) i dont think there is anything wrong with it.

[CZroe]

Thanks. As far as the tensioner goes, a replacement may still be in order: I have a dime stuck on with high temp liquid gasket instead of the cap (darn soft aluminum threads!). The noise started before that though.

[alex.s]

[krolinked]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Thanks. As far as the tensioner goes, a replacement may still be in order: I have a dime stuck on with high temp liquid gasket instead of the cap (darn soft aluminum threads!). The noise started before that though.

You Sir, Are #$%ing Brilliant

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by CZroe

...........Is it the same for the pregen/newgen?

Similar chain should have similar specification for wear limit.

Could you describe your solution for the CCT a little more?

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Similar chain should have similar specification for wear limit.

Could you describe your solution for the CCT a little more?

Don't get too excited: It doesn't fix a bad CCT, just a mistake often made when setting it.

Basically, there is a cap on it for accessing the turn-to-retract mechanism. That cap threads into the CCT's soft aluminum housing and pulls every thread right out before even feeling hand-tight. I literally had the torque spec and mini-torque wrench beside me and ready to go but figured I would just snug it first and then tighten to torque spec, but it cleanly stripped the threads out without ever feeling snug. It seems to happen to a lot of people.

It's a bit oily in there and it's sealed with a rubber O-ring, so it doesn't seem like the kind of thing you'd want to leave un-capped. It likely gets hot and you can't seal it off permanently, so the same high-temp removable liquid gasket you use to seal the cover after a valve service seems appropriate for holding a coin over it. Obviously, the stuff works on the valve cover so it works in oily and hot environments. A shiny little dime is just about the perfect size.

I used Permatex Hi-Temp Red RTV removable liquid gasket sealant.

Originally Posted by krolinked

You Sir, Are #$%ing Brilliant

I wish. I take it that your cap stripped the CCT threads too?

[gt_turbo]

LOL that really is some redneck stuff. personally, i would probably try it for a dirt bike, but for a street bike, probably not.

[alex.s]

oh i get it. you mean the cover bolt on the outside of the cct. why not just re-tap it and put a new bolt in

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by alex.s

oh i get it. you mean the cover bolt on the outside of the cct. why not just re-tap it and put a new bolt in

#1: Don't have a tap and die set.
#2: The rubber O-ring is a seal. Not sure how well that would work with a wider opening behind it.
#3: It's have to be a really short bolt with an equally wide cap. A washer on a bolt wouldn't seal.

It was just a quick-fix. Nothing special.