Apex Stainless Steel brake line Install

[Asspire]

So looks like the Apex lines are a hit, so here's a how to on installation and a few tip/tricks to help make install quick and easy. This should be the same for the Pregens and the 300's, but don't hold me to that.

This is a quick and easy guide for the novice, I will try to keep it simple as possible.

So, first things first, what you will need:

- A 12mm socket and wrench
- A 10 socket
- A 8mm wrench
- 3/16 clear nylon hose 1ft (cheap stuff, nothing fancy needed)
- Brake fluid (whatever brand you like, DOT 4 is what I used, can go higher synthetic spec if you like)
- Brake parts cleaner
- Fluid sucker (optional)
- Lots of clean rags
- New Brake hose for rear reservoir to master (more on that later)
- Clean and empty water bottle or something similar

Now, double check your parts and lines, make sure you have all the hardware you will need. If its the kit from the Group Buy there will be two lines, 4 bolts, and 8 crush washers.







Now before we get to draining the old fluid, whip out the brake parts cleaner and clean the banjo bolts at caliper, master cylinder and the bleeder nut on the caliper, make sure to remove the rubber protector and clean inside the bleeder as well. We want to remove all dirt and moisture from around the area to keep contamination to a minimum. Remember, brake fluid is Hygroscopic , and since we're opening up the brake system, we want to keep chances of contamination to a minimum.




Before we can remove the old lines we have to bleed the old fluid out. There are a couple ways to do this, I have a pneumatic fluid sucker which attaches to the bleeder and sucks the fluid out. Its quick, easy, but expensive.



Most DIY'ers don't need one of these, just some 3/16 nylon hose(about 8-10 inches) and a bottle. Loosen up the brake bleeder first, using a 8mm wrench (no socket, too much torque the wrong way and your going to need a new caliper). Turn it enough to crack it, and tighten it back (just snug it). Then press fit the nylon hose over the bleeder screw and put the other end in the bottle. Open the cap on the master cylinder and then loosen the bleeder nut and let gravity do the work for you. If your in a hurry, then:

1. With bleeder still tight, pump the brake lever SLOWLY, untill pressure builds, and hold pressure on the lever.
2. With the other hand open the bleeder nut. You'll see the fluid push out into the nylon hose and the bottle.
3. When the brake lever has been squeezed all the way in, tighten the bleeder screw (just snug it, no need to go nuts on it)
4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 untill reservior is empty.

Once reservior is empty, you will need to gravity bleed it since there's nothing in the master to push through the hose. While your waiting, now would be a good time to check the seal on the reservoir cap and clean the reservoir of any dirt that might be in there. Don't use the brake parts cleaner on the reservoir, as it will mess up the seals on the plunger. Use a clean rag (lint free).



Now that the fluid is gone, tighten the bleeder (just snug it). Loosen the banjo bolts, 12mm, loosen but don't remove them yet. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake flex hose support bracket.



You will need to pry apart the bracket to get it off the old line, save the rubber as well. Transfer the new support bracket to the Apex lines, you will notice that there is a gap. Cut off 1 inch of the 3/16 nylon hose, slice it down on one side to open it up and slide it over the Apex line. Now run the new line along the old line, passing it through the bracket on the front fender. Match up the location of the support bracket on the old line to the new one and slide the nylon hose we put on earlier to that location, then put the support bracket and rubber over the nylon hose and tighten down, making sure there is enough slack in the line below the bracket for suspension travel.









Now we can start to remove the old line, I like to start with the bottom and work up. Put some rags under the caliper and around it, some fluid will leak out, so keep the brake cleaner near to clean up and spills. Brake fluid will eat through paint, so get it off quick as possible. Once the old line and banjos are off, make sure the old crush washers are off and the mating surface for the new one is clean. Install the new line with banjo bolts and crush washers, make sure to line up the fitting with the notch in the caliper (I can only go one way, I hope) and tighten it down, I forget the torque spec, but when dealing with crush washers, I tighten down till its snug and 1/4 turn. No need to go nuts on it, just make sure the washers are "crushed".



Move up the the master, same as the bottom, put rags around and keep the brake parts cleaner handy. Make note of the angle of the old line, remove and install new line with new crush washers, and again, make sure of the angle of the new line before tightening down.



The rear is the same thing as the front, a little easier since there's no bracket to transfer. The only thing to remember, check the rubber hose from the reservoir to master. If its old (more than 4 years), starting to crack, or looks questionable, just replace it one time.




Make note of the angle of the line at the master, I put my rear line on a angle to make it easier to get to shock preload adjuster.




The rear caliper connection I had to angle so I could get easy access to the bleeder nut.



Once all the lines are tightened up, fill the reservoirs with new fluid, open bleeders and let gravity do its work. This is probably the easiest way to bleed the system of air with the least amount of fuss. Once you get fluid thru, close up the bleeders and and pressure bleed it with the brake lever:

1. With bleeder still tight, pump the brake lever SLOWLY, untill pressure builds, and hold pressure on the lever.
2. With the other hand open the bleeder nut. You'll see the fluid push out into the nylon hose and the bottle.
3. When the brake lever has been squeezed all the way in, tighten the bleeder screw (just snug it, no need to go nuts on it)
4. Repeat steps 1 - 3.

You will need to do this until you see NO air bubbles coming through the nylon hose. If you use a fluid sucker to bleed it you will still need to pump bleed it to get all the air out of system. When satisfied, tighten up the bleeders and reinstall dust caps, top up reserviors and road test.

Also, if your up to it, now would be a good time to remove the calipers and lube the sliders and clean up the pads and around the pistons.

Also, I used DOT 4 fluid, you can use DOT 3 or DOT 5.1, but NOT DOT 5, it's a whole different fluid altogether. For the novices, just use DOT 4 and be happy with it, your not gaining anything going higher.

Oh and don't tighten the two screws on the front reservoir to tight, just snug it.


Feel free not to ask me any questions about install.

[Alex]

Nice work.