View Full Version : valve clearance specs


dotsony
February 14th, 2009, 01:47 AM
I'm at a friend's house, preparing to do the valve adjustment tomorrow, and I forgot my service manual =(. Anyone know off-hand what the valve clearance specification is for a 2002 ninja 250?

Alex
February 14th, 2009, 01:50 AM
The ninja250.org folks have a good faq on adjusting the valves on a 1st-gen machine. It includes all of the specs.

Here's a link (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_adjust_the_valves%3F) to the main page for valve adjustment.

Here's the page (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F) that includes the specs.

dotsony
February 14th, 2009, 02:07 AM
=) thanks. I should have checked them first.

Alex
February 14th, 2009, 02:27 AM
That site can't be beat for 1st-gen tech specs, no way around it. Good luck with the service tomorrow.

kkim
February 14th, 2009, 10:39 AM
I should have checked them first. No. You did the right thing. :D

ajcalamia
February 14th, 2009, 08:34 PM
Their site may have all the service aspects covered, but they don't have as much style. Their forum layout is terrible, but they all seem to be good people.

sometimesido
April 14th, 2009, 08:25 AM
:whathesaid:

dotsony
April 14th, 2009, 09:02 AM
I did manage to get the valves adjusted, even without the special tool. Never again will I try to do it without the special tool.

sometimesido
April 14th, 2009, 09:14 AM
why is that? 9mm deep socket and very small flathead didn't work out so good?

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 12:27 AM
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm currently in the middle of a valve adjustment and I seem to be stuck without the special valve tool, I'm on the inside left hand exhaust nut and I cant seem to loosen it at all. It will seem like its loosening and then the socket will lose its grip on the nut.
Do you guys have any tips, I only have the last 3 exhaust valves left and I'm finished but I've been stuck on this one for the past 30 min trying to loosen it :mad:

I'm using a 3/8s deep socket and its worked well for all the other nuts so far...

kkim
March 17th, 2011, 12:37 AM
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm currently in the middle of a valve adjustment and I seem to be stuck without the special valve tool, I'm on the inside left hand exhaust nut and I cant seem to loosen it at all. It will seem like its loosening and then the socket will lose its grip on the nut.
Do you guys have any tips, I only have the last 3 exhaust valves left and I'm finished but I've been stuck on this one for the past 30 min trying to loosen it :mad:

I'm using a 3/8s deep socket and its worked well for all the other nuts so far...

sounds like you've rounded off the nut already. :(

are you using a 6 or 12 pt socket? impact wrench if you have one with a 6 pt socket. plus are you using a 3/8" drive socket or an actual 3/8" socket? If so, why are you not using metric sockets?

btw, you've posted in the pregen section... you have new gen correct?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67405

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 12:44 AM
sounds like you've rounded off the nut already. :(

are you using a 6 or 12 pt socket? impact wrench if you have one with a 6 pt socket.

btw, you've posted in the pregen section... you have new gen correct?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67405


No, I thought that at first but the nut looks as pointy as the other ones,
and I'm using a 6 point socket...I have an 06 so I guess It's a 2nd gen lol

kkim
March 17th, 2011, 12:54 AM
sorry, I could have sworn it said 2009 in you info panel.

again, are you using metric sockets?

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 01:00 AM
Sorry you were right, I just changed it cause it wasn't correct, I wish I could have an 09 haha...

but no I'm using standard sizes, I think that the spot is just really tight and Im getting a false feel for the nut...guess ima have to buy the valve tool after all :sigh:

kkim
March 17th, 2011, 01:05 AM
have you read this?
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Hints_%26_Tips:_Valve_Adjustment

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 01:24 AM
No I haven't, thanks
I'll read up and then finish my valves tomorrow, getting a little late!
Thanks for your help

n_aditya
March 17th, 2011, 01:56 AM
Apologies if this is an off topic post.

I have the 2009/2010 model Ninja 250R UK Spec which is the fuel injected version. I know for sure there has been no valve clearance check or adjustment on my bike so far. My bike has clocked around 11000 kms.

Something called Vacuum Synchronization is performed only at 12000 kms and not before (third service interval).

At the first service of 1000 kms only the engine oil and oil filter was changed.

Do i have any reason to worry? The bike performs fine. Absolutely no issues *knock-on-wood*

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 02:46 AM
So I took a picture of the valve nut I'm currently working on,

http://i.imgur.com/EDfMK.jpg

Does it warrant replacement, or should it be fine until at least the next adjustment?

Thanks

kkim
March 17th, 2011, 03:42 AM
that nut looks a bit rounded to me. I would replace it. if it's giving you problems now, why would you want to go through what you're going through now, again in the future, just to save a few bucks and some time now?

you haven't gotten it loose yet, have you? if not, I can assure you it won't look even that good when you finally do get it loose.

NInjaR53
March 17th, 2011, 02:41 PM
Alright that sounds good, once I get it out of there, I can take it down to the hardware store and grab one with similar threads and everything should be fine and dandy right?
I don't need to buy some special valve nut from Kawasaki or anything like that, right?

kkim
March 17th, 2011, 02:46 PM
Alright that sounds good, once I get it out of there, I can take it down to the hardware store and grab one with similar threads and everything should be fine and dandy right?
I don't need to buy some special valve nut from Kawasaki or anything like that, right?

I would be sure to use a hardened nut in there. I'm not familiar with that particular nut, but make sure whatever you buy is not some cheap nut that's made from cheese. Engine hardware usually use very tough (hardened) steel to avoid problems.