So I noticed a couple of weeks after I got my ninjette, it would seem as if the start button was defective, and trying pushing it a few times it would start, and then I would not encounter that issue for weeks.

Then this last Saturday I went to get gas, and it happened again, I went in to the store and get some stuff, then went back outside and again it would not start so I started positioning myself to go down hill and hopefully get it push started (it was a very short slope) but before that I tried the button and the bike started.

This morning it happened again after a few minutes, I pulled the start button casing apart and tried to jump the starter circuit but that did not do it (just know I realize I did not check the kill switch, the problem could also be there)

Has anyone encounter this? I push the start button and nothing happens, no even a ticking sound. I think I'll probably have to remove the tank to inspect the other end of the starter cables.

Thanks!

Faulty switches can drive you crazy,

It can be either one of those two and all you can do is put them apart and clean them or replace them.

How is the exhaust project coming along?

Faulty switches can drive you crazy,

It can be either one of those two and all you can do is put them apart and clean them or replace them.

How is the exhaust project coming along?

Got it, gonna clean them and see what it does...

I should be getting the headers by this weekend, and a local shop has a couple of stock cans, so hopefully by the next week I'll have replaced them... thanks for asking !

Faulty switches can drive you crazy,

It can be either one of those two and all you can do is put them apart and clean them or replace them.

How is the exhaust project coming along?

I pulled the starter switch casing apart and got my multimeter to see that both the starter and killswitch work well, I looked at the fuses and it all looked fine, I think I'll empty the tank and remove it so I can thoroughly inspect the cabling... I shouild probably just take it to the mechanic, but I may learn a thing or two and either get it fixed or get to know my bike a little better.... today was a perfectly fine day for riding :(

I pulled the starter switch casing apart and got my multimeter to see that both the starter and killswitch work well, I looked at the fuses and it all looked fine, I think I'll empty the tank and remove it so I can thoroughly inspect the cabling...

You can find some circuits here:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_schematics_%26_diagrams

You can find some circuits here:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_schematics_%26_diagrams

first thing I read on the starter schematics "This shows all the wiring in the starter circuit. This could save you from a 'My bike won't start' post." lol!

Thanks again!

You are welcome, Pedro :)

Best luck !!!

Yeah, switches can drive you crazy. But first, watch your dash lights when you press the starter. I have seen intermittent batteries that work and then don't work. Usually the clue is that the dash light are intermittent.

Next, since the starter system on the pregen is not computerized, the order in which you activate the switches is irrelevant. So the next time it happens, I suggest that you hold the starter button in and then play with the five switches that are also in the circuit (flip them back and forth). They are, the kill switch, the ignition switch, the kickstand switch, the clutch switch and the neutral switch. Chances are, one of them will hit the starter while you are holding the starter button down and playing with it.

Good luck.

Yeah, switches can drive you crazy. But first, watch your dash lights when you press the starter. I have seen intermittent batteries that work and then don't work. Usually the clue is that the dash light are intermittent.

Next, since the starter system on the pregen is not computerized, the order in which you activate the switches is irrelevant. So the next time it happens, I suggest that you hold the starter button in and then play with the five switches that are also in the circuit (flip them back and forth). They are, the kill switch, the ignition switch, the kickstand switch, the clutch switch and the neutral switch. Chances are, one of them will hit the starter while you are holding the starter button down and playing with it.

Good luck.

Great advice! makes sense, since last saturday I was having the same problem, but just moving the bike in order to get to a shade did the trick, so at least one of those things may have been the problem.

Thanks!

I was able to check Killswitch, starter button, sidestand switch and clutch switch using a multimeter, they are all good, neutral indicator is on, so I guess that switch is good, any other way to make sure?

I went ahead and started the bike using a cable directly on the solenoid bolts and it started just fine... it was nice to hear that engine running...

So back to the schematics....



Yeah, switches can drive you crazy. But first, watch your dash lights when you press the starter. I have seen intermittent batteries that work and then don't work. Usually the clue is that the dash light are intermittent.

Next, since the starter system on the pregen is not computerized, the order in which you activate the switches is irrelevant. So the next time it happens, I suggest that you hold the starter button in and then play with the five switches that are also in the circuit (flip them back and forth). They are, the kill switch, the ignition switch, the kickstand switch, the clutch switch and the neutral switch. Chances are, one of them will hit the starter while you are holding the starter button down and playing with it.

Good luck.

When you have the killswitch in the on position (ignition), check continuity between your starter button and your starter motor.

If thats all good, i am guessing you have an issue with grounding.

Finally, starting the engine is the biggest load on your battery, although if it wasn't enough, the starter solenoid would most likely click, still something to check though.

We are all assuming that you have already checked all your fuses.

Based on what you have said, I would back track from the starter to the starter switch and find out where the fault is. There is a safety interlock relay between the solenoid and the switch. The starter solenoids do go out on these bikes and that would be the first place I'd look if you are certain the switches are OK.

We are all assuming that you have already checked all your fuses.

Based on what you have said, I would back track from the starter to the starter switch and find out where the fault is. There is a safety interlock relay between the solenoid and the switch. The starter solenoids do go out on these bikes and that would be the first place I'd look if you are certain the switches are OK.

Good point, to add on, you can test the solenoid by having key on (ready to push the starter button) and short the 2 nuts on the starter solenoid by something like a screw driver, just make sure you are not touching the metal part of what you choose to short it with.

Good point, to add on, you can test the solenoid by having key on (ready to push the starter button) and short the 2 nuts on the starter solenoid by something like a screw driver, just make sure you are not touching the metal part of what you choose to short it with.

No, that wont test the solenoid, it just bypasses it. To test it, you have to supply power and ground to two of the spade terminals on the solenoid to activate it. I don't remember which ones though, but the schematic will tell you. Also, the wrong two terminals will blow the fuse if I recall.

We are all assuming that you have already checked all your fuses.

Based on what you have said, I would back track from the starter to the starter switch and find out where the fault is. There is a safety interlock relay between the solenoid and the switch. The starter solenoids do go out on these bikes and that would be the first place I'd look if you are certain the switches are OK.

Yeah, I think I checked all the fuses but it won't hurt to check again.

Good point, to add on, you can test the solenoid by having key on (ready to push the starter button) and short the 2 nuts on the starter solenoid by something like a screw driver, just make sure you are not touching the metal part of what you choose to short it with.

I did this to test the starter, just to get some peace of mind by hearing the engine running...

No, that wont test the solenoid, it just bypasses it. To test it, you have to supply power and ground to two of the spade terminals on the solenoid to activate it. I don't remember which ones though, but the schematic will tell you. Also, the wrong two terminals will blow the fuse if I recall.

This reminds me of bomb defusing in movies....

Turned out it was a faulty ground cable, bike's starting just fine now...