The first & second video is of the bike before the carb rebuild. I only replaced the float needles because of the fuel bowl overflow, and sprayed the jets with some carb cleaner.

The third video is of the bike now! It will not idle without the choke on. I can ride the bike(without choke), but if I let the Idle drop below 1500 it will slowly die. Is this an adjustment issue?

HISTORY: new plugs/ cleaned carbs (not soaked)/ adjusted valves/ fresh gas/ air-fuel screws set 2-1/2 turns out then adjusted in 1/4 turn (made it rideable without choke.
HELP PLEASE!!

http://s924.photobucket.com/user/deanomyte/media/ninjette/IMG_1232_zps4e4facc7.mp4.html
http://s924.photobucket.com/user/deanomyte/media/ninjette/IMG_1234_zpsa88f30fc.mp4.html
http://s924.photobucket.com/user/deanomyte/media/ninjette/IMG_1280_zps704838c7.mp4.html

Hmmm... video, sorry don't see any video. Just pics.

Anyway, you say you just sprayed the jets with carb cleaner. You did run something through ALL 4 jets to ensure they where not clogged or had debris in there right? The carb body has many other pathways that must be clean & clear as well. Cleaning a carb is more than just cleaning the bowls and spraying the jets. You should be pretty close with your mix screws though.

Spray some carb cleaner around the intake boots to confirm you don't have a vacuum leak. If the idle changes, you have a leak.

Adjust the idle mixture screws in 1/4 increments one way, then the other, to see if you can improve the idle. For starters, set for the highest RPM.

If you didn't run a copper wire through the jets (pilot and main) while spinning and spraying carb cleaner through them they may still be partially obstructed. Spraying cleaner through them isn't enough.

EDIT: csmith beat me to it...

:werd: Jay

Dean, do Jay's tests first, I sometimes forget... "do the simple stuff first". :thumbup:

Hopefully the links work correctly now!

Yep, links to vids work.

Sorry bud, looks like the idle jets need a good cleaning.

so should any copper wire works? Do I need to soak the carb bodies to get the debris out of the little passages? or can I run wire through these passages?

Looks like your engine is about to overheat. How long was it idling before you took the vid?

so should any copper wire works? Do I need to soak the carb bodies to get the debris out of the little passages? or can I run wire through these passages?

I use a guitar string but some wrench turners don't like that. Meh, if your careful about it, you can use just about anything that will fit. Don't forget the carb body as well, if there is a hole, do your best to clean it out. An shot of compressed air will be helpful as well.

And for sure, purge the air out of the cooling system. :)

Well there doesn't seem to be any air in the cooling system as the coolant level has not changed. Not sure if it is the idle problems causing the high temps, or what. Just getting her on the road for the first time and I'm chasing demons!! Guess I'll pull the carbs apart AGAIN!! And Go from there. I'll post another video later after another test an tune!!

so should any copper wire works? Do I need to soak the carb bodies to get the debris out of the little passages? or can I run wire through these passages?
I use 1 strand of copper wire from "Stranded" 12 of 14ga electrical wire to open the mains, but it's slightly too big to fit through the stock pilot jet. Just be careful not to jam anything in the jet that would damage the shape or size of the opening. I have seen jets that you can see light through (some people's test) that are not completely open. Soak everything as well as possible and blow out the passages with high pressure compressed air. The jet venturi is the smallest opening in the passage, and sitting in fuel, so it's the first thing to clog.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use as the final step to make sure everything is clean, but it's not usually required.

You really need to disassemble the whole carb to get it clean. Remove the floats, main(remove the whole emulsion tube) and pilot jets and spray everything out with carb cleaner. You can scrub the jets with a toothbrush under running water as well. It can be intimidating if youve never done it before. Just make sure you remember how it goes back together or take pictures.

I recently had to replace my original carb after the choke froze solid in its cylinder. When I put the new one on I let it sit a day before I went back to it and mud daubers had filled the fuel line entrance with dirt. Anyways it took me forever to get all of that **** out. It got down inside the carb and I wasn't getting any fuel into my bowls. I finally resorted to running hot water from the faucet through entrance to get it unplugged. The carb spray just didn't have enough pressure to get it clear.

If you want to stick something in the carb to clean you can use small zip ties without worrying about damaging the soft metal. Otherwise I'd use copper wire. Your best bet though is carb cleaner/compressed air as you don't have to worry about it damaging anything.

Carbs are notoriously shy.

When you are all done and have it back together and running, though maybe not perfectly, you need to sync the carbs before going much further.

If they are significantly out of sync you'll never get it running properly - no matter how much you tune it.

When you are all done and have it back together and running, though maybe not perfectly, you need to sync the carbs before going much further.

If they are significantly out of sync you'll never get it running properly - no matter how much you tune it.

I think that is part of my problem, but gotta get it idling before i try to sync. thanks for all the help! i'll report back as soon as i get it cleaned.

Looks like your engine is about to overheat. How long was it idling before you took the vid?

not long, it seems to heat up very quickly. especially at stop lights. 205degrees is not uncommon. i'm trying to track that problem down too.

Try purging the cooling system. To do that, just start the engine with the radiator cap off and let it run until it gets warm. The air can get out then. Just don't remove the cap when the engine is warm or it will spray you with hot water.