Long story short I broke this screw that holds the header pipes...

Fixable?
http://i.imgur.com/Gm3EabW.jpg
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I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing.

Do you go riding through mud a lot or something?

Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it.....

.....Fixable?

Yes; as explained above.

I would use some heat on the bolt because that should be very tight after 6 years in there.

Before you give up, weld some cross bar on the stud (previously disconnecting the battery).

I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing.

Do you go riding through mud a lot or something?

Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it.....

Yeah, last time I went out I rode in the mud for a bit, and did not wash it..

Thanks, I think you're right about it being threaded on both ends.

Yes; as explained above.

I would use some heat on the bolt because that should be very tight after 6 years in there.

Before you give up, weld some cross bar on the stud (previously disconnecting the battery).

Thanks!, I'll start by using some penetrating oil such as WD-40 probably for a couple of days.... I don't want to risk breaking the stud where it goes into the engine, I really don't...

WD-40 is not a good penetrant, it is designed to displace water (WD = Water Displacing). Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Seafoam "Deep Creep". Use a propane torch to heat up the stud boss (the cylindrical aluminum projection the stud screws into) a little, then spray on the deep creep. Repeat a few times. Give it a few days.

Then warm it up and unscrew the stud. You only want to warm it up a little, so the aluminum expands. If you get it too hot, the stud will also expand.

The proper tool to use is called a stud puller. You may be able to rent one at Autozone. ****CAUTION**** Do not apply any side load to the old stud while breaking it loose. If it does not want to unscrew without much force, repeat the heat soak/deep creep applications. If you break the stud off, you are in a world of poo.

^ That's what I'd do with it as well. The right amount of heat will help a lot in that situation.

When you feel it start to move, go forward, then back, as you turn it out - moving slowly only about 1/8 turn out or less each time. It should get easier as you go, but backing-up occasionally is a good idea and usually helps keep it from snapping.

The same type of back-and-forth movement works well if you have spark plugs that are really snug and difficult to remove.

anyone use the "CRC Freeze Off" penetrant?

Supposedly supercools the the bolt to make it shrink and allow penetrant to soak in better.