View Full Version : how f is the engine


fishdip
November 27th, 2013, 01:53 AM
Well last night on my ride home the bike starts making a loud clicking sound and I am like :confused: I just did the valves only 300 miles back. So I get home and pull off all the stuff on the bike to find this laying in the top of the engine. Can I just get a new rocker arm and put it on or do I need to worry about the valves now? I puled off all the oil filters and the screen had the broken part in it but the oil looked clean no metal shavings. this was on the intake side middle.

Racer x
November 27th, 2013, 06:00 AM
When you say "laying on top of the engine". I assume you mean laying on top under the valve cover.
These engines can toss rockers. I would say to reinstall the rocker double check the clearance of all the valves and see how it runs or do a compression test if you have the tools.

After looking close at the photo. I see the damage. Replace the rocker

fishdip
November 27th, 2013, 06:20 AM
When you say "laying on top of the engine". I assume you mean laying on top under the valve cover.
These engines can toss rockers. I would say to reinstall the rocker double check the clearance of all the valves and see how it runs or do a compression test if you have the tools.

After looking close at the photo. I see the damage. Replace the rocker

Yep just setting on top under the valve cover. I have been setting the nut to14.5 ft/lbs but after reading the wiki they tell you to do them at 12 is this what I did wrong?

Motofool
November 27th, 2013, 08:32 AM
..........I just did the valves only 300 miles back.........

You are very lucky, my friend !!!

Take a look at this:
http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/06/overtorquing-rocker-arm-locknuts-during.html

It took 300 miles for the part to rotate itself out of position.

greg737
November 27th, 2013, 08:54 AM
When you think about it the EX250 engine's reaction to over-tightened rocker arms is sort of like a "fail safe" situation.

The engine simply cracks the rocker arm in half and spits the pieces out of the valvetrain. Then the engine oil flow pattern usually pins these pieces down in a corner of the head's casting where they safely wait to be discovered.

fishdip
November 27th, 2013, 09:33 AM
Wow I just looked them up and online or at a dealer its going to be 50.00 for just one. I found one on e-bay for 20.00 but it is used any risk of it braking sooner since its used?

greg737
November 27th, 2013, 09:39 AM
I'd have to say that, based on the type of casting the rocker arms appear to be, they are probably either 100% good or broken in half.

What I mean is, they're designed to be very rigid because an engine designer doesn't want flex in the valvetrain because it would mess with the timing of intake and exhaust events. So they're very inflexible which means they simply fail catastrophically rather than bending or deforming in any way.

fishdip
November 27th, 2013, 02:31 PM
You are very lucky, my friend !!!

Take a look at this:
http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/06/overtorquing-rocker-arm-locknuts-during.html

It took 300 miles for the part to rotate itself out of position.

I just don't get how or why it broke this time I do the valves every 3k miles and this was my 6th time I even take of the radiator and other hardware so I am able to do it right with the torque wrench per the factory manual.

Motofool
November 27th, 2013, 02:38 PM
I just don't get how or why it broke this time I do the valves every 3k miles and this was my 6th time I even take of the radiator and other hardware so I am able to do it right with the torque wrench per the factory manual.

No idea; but be certain that you were very close to having to buy a replacement engine.

That little lip is very fragile and can be easily fractured.

jkv45
November 28th, 2013, 08:41 AM
I just don't get how or why it broke this time I do the valves every 3k miles and this was my 6th time I even take of the radiator and other hardware so I am able to do it right with the torque wrench per the factory manual.
That does seem odd then.

Is it possible that the little lip gets forced against the valve, and stressed, as it's being tightened?

fishdip
November 28th, 2013, 12:40 PM
That does seem odd then.

Is it possible that the little lip gets forced against the valve, and stressed, as it's being tightened?

I think what may have happened was the nut worked its way lose and let the rocker arm start to vibrate braking the tip off.

jkv45
November 28th, 2013, 06:00 PM
I think what may have happened was the nut worked its way lose and let the rocker arm start to vibrate braking the tip off.
Wouldn't you get some pretty loud ticking if that was happening?

fishdip
December 4th, 2013, 06:30 PM
Wouldn't you get some pretty loud ticking if that was happening?






Well last night on my ride home the bike starts making a loud clicking sound and I am like :confused: I just did the valves only 300 miles back. So I get home and pull off all the stuff on the bike to find this laying in the top of the engine. Can I just get a new rocker arm and put it on or do I need to worry about the valves now? I puled off all the oil filters and the screen had the broken part in it but the oil looked clean no metal shavings. this was on the intake side middle.

JohnnyBravo
December 4th, 2013, 07:11 PM
New rocker is cheaper than a new engine :thumbup:

fishdip
January 7th, 2014, 02:16 PM
So after replacing the rocker arm I now get a little puff of blue/gray smoke if I down shift hard it never did this. Ideas?

Racer x
January 7th, 2014, 03:00 PM
If it smokes under load. Throttle open then I guess piston rings. If it smokes when you close the throttle then I would guess intake valve seals or guides.

fishdip
January 7th, 2014, 03:16 PM
If it smokes under load. Throttle open then I guess piston rings. If it smokes when you close the throttle then I would guess intake valve seals or guides.
So how much work is it to replace the rings? Parts I will need other stuff to replace since I have it apart.