So I was on my way to work this morning and my bike kept stalling at most of the stop lights. I adjusted the idle and it helped a little bit but it still stalled again right by work. I ran low on gas yesterday and had to switch it reserve but it perked right back up and I went and got some fresh gas. The weather was pretty warm this morning and didn't even have to use choke to get it going so I don't think it's a temperature isse. Things I am going to check when I get it home:

- See if choke needs to be adjusted
- Check to see if the fuel filter is clogged since I ran low yesterday.
- Make sure the oil is at correct level
- Mess with the idle some more

It is past due for a valve check so that may well be it but the idle acting squirrely leads me to think its fuel/carb issue. It still has the original in-line fuel filter on there but it doesn't have that many miles on it. Any other thoughts on what to check?

Check
Air Filter and airbox
Gas tank venting
Vac leaks
Valves checked
Take a peak at the battery terminals too, clean and tight (long shot)

Carbs clean?

If you can get to the idle mixture screw, check their setting. Normal base is 2 1/2 turns out. Depending on temps (colder) you may need to go out more. Another way to set the idle mixture is to adjust for the highest RPM, then go just slightly (1/8 turn out or so) richer.

If the temps have been fluctuating, and the tank has been low, you may have some amount of condensation (moisture) in the tank. Always keep the tank as full as possible to avoid it. If you are in an area that has "winter", be sure to change all of the fuel over to winter-blend when it's getting around 50 degrees. That will help get it started in cooler temps. Old summer-blend gas will give you problems at that point. Add stabilizer to the new fuel if it will be stored.

You may want to drain the floatbowls and see how the fuel looks and if there's any water.

I'd check the fuel filters also.

After setting the idle mixture, set the idle speed to 1300.

Well I learned at least one thing when I checked it on my break. The petcock is definetly bad because I had left it on Reserve when parked and gas was dripping out of the pods in the back pretty bad. I also tried starting it and it made a wierd sound and wouldn't start at first. I moved it and put it on the center stand to look around and didn't see anything strange and it has oil in the window. Took it back down and I got it started but that was pretty scary because I thought it may have seized.

Well I learned at least one thing when I checked it on my break. The petcock is definetly bad because I had left it on Reserve when parked and gas was dripping out of the pods in the back pretty bad. I aslo tried starting it and it made a wierd sound and wouldn't start at first. I moved it and put it on the center stand to look around and didn't see anything strange and it has oil in the window. Took it back down and I got it started but that was pretty scary because I thought it may have seized.
You may have gotten raw gas down in the cylinders. Too much gas (or coolant, or any fluid) can cause major damage to an engine when you crank it. Fluid won't compress, so the engine will abruptly stop when it hits the compression stroke - sometimes bending connecting rods. You may have had just enough raw gas in the chamber so it didn't lock completely, and were able to clear it out on the exhaust stroke.

The needle and seat in the carb controls when the fuel stops flowing, so I'd say yours isn't seating completely. Debris in the fuel that gets stuck under the needle can cause leaking, as can a worn needle/seat or incorrect float adjustment.

Check
Air Filter and airbox
Gas tank venting
Vac leaks
Valves checked
Take a peak at the battery terminals too, clean and tight (long shot)

Carbs clean?

Carbs are good thought they were leaking but I think it's actually my petcock causing the problem. No airbox but the K&N pod looks okay but it could be wet from the weather though that hasn't been in issue in the past. Do I just make sure the hose isn't blocked for the gas tank vent issue? The choke looks good and I had the problems even in neutral. I'll check the battery but I just replaced one of my front signals and remember tightening it down. Now I have heard a chugging sound on the right side but I was never sure exactly what it was from it was just when starting up. If I can limp it home I'll try to diagnose it further.

If the temps have been fluctuating, and the tank has been low, you may have some amount of condensation (moisture) in the tank. Always keep the tank as full as possible to avoid it. If you are in an area that has "winter", be sure to change all of the fuel over to winter-blend when it's getting around 50 degrees. That will help get it started in cooler temps.

What oil weight should I run in the winter time? I was going to switch to synthetic next go around.

ran out of gas, now its a rough idle. its a common issue- **** in the gas tank that normally floats goes down the drain and into your carbs to clog your pilot jets.

put fuel treatment in a half tank of gas and flog the girl

What oil weight should I run in the winter time? I was going to switch to synthetic next go around.
A good choice is Rotella T6 5W-40 for cold temps, and it's also just fine year-round.

If you choose something else, I'd go with the same grades - 5W-40. A 5W moves easier and lubricates better at cold start-up. That's the most critical time for wear. Rotella also has good levels of ZDDP which prevent wear in high pressure areas like cam lobes.

Most cycle and diesel oils (Rotella, Delvac) will have 1200 + ppm of Zinc and Phosphorus, some will have more. Never use standard automotive oils - even high-end synthetics. Current auto oils have only 700-800 ppm - which isn't enough for cycle engines.

ran out of gas, now its a rough idle. its a common issue- **** in the gas tank that normally floats goes down the drain and into your carbs to clog your pilot jets.

put fuel treatment in a half tank of gas and flog the girl

Would seafoam do the trick or should I use something else?

Most cycle and diesel oils (Rotella, Delvac) will have 1200 + ppm of Zinc and Phosphorus, some will have more. Never use standard automotive oils - even high-end synthetics. Current auto oils have only 700-800 ppm - which isn't enough for cycle engines.

the new formulation of t6 has about half the content of zinc as before according to their website. current rotella i believe was around 400 ppm zinc compared to the old 1000ish

Would seafoam do the trick or should I use something else?

it probably wont hurt

it probably wont hurt

That's what she said. hahahahahha

That's what she said. hahahahahha

are we still talking about big tools being too tight in the nuts?

Well she made it home. I put some seafoam in the gas and took her for a ride. Seems to be doing better. If there was gunk in the pilots it's gone now. I'll scoop a fuel filter tom so this doesn't happen again. Valves and oil are next on the list. Thanks yall.

the new formulation of t6 has about half the content of zinc as before according to their website. current rotella i believe was around 400 ppm zinc compared to the old 1000ish
I remember when they changed the formula, but I believe it's still at 1200 ppm ZDDP. I was told by a Shell Tech Rep that all Rotella multi-grade oils (conventional and synthetic) have the same amount (1200+) of ZDDP. Single-grades are different, and lower.

Can you send me a link to the info?

i'm too lazy to find it, but according to wikipedia, "The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.", which means it's probably fine in our bike

i'm too lazy to find it, but according to wikipedia, "The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.", which means it's probably fine in our bike

This is a unused T6 analysis from 2012 with some discussion about the levels - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2566898

Zinc - 1257
Phosphorus - 1123

JASO-MA means it is rated for use in wet clutch applications.

For a good, low cost, synthetic 40 weight oil for general motorcycle use it's hard to beat T6 IMO.

Rotella is dern good oil. I, however use Amsoil. In my Buell, simply changing the oil from Mobil 1 to Amsoil lowered the average operating oil temp 22 degrees with no other changes under identical environmental conditions.

Amsoil is also the OEM oil for the only American Superbike, EBR. They chose it because it proved to lubricate the crank bearings better than any of the 14 different oils they tested.

...for the only American Superbike, EBR...

lol, that carries no weight at all for the topic at hand.

Rotella is dern good oil. I, however use Amsoil. In my Buell, simply changing the oil from Mobil 1 to Amsoil lowered the average operating oil temp 22 degrees with no other changes under identical environmental conditions.


Same viscosities? Mobil1 10W-40 motorcycle-specific oil - right?

There had to be a some difference in viscosity to make that much of a change.

A lighter weight oil will move faster and carry more heat away than a heavier oil.

So I got off work and took the fuel hose off to check the filter thinking it would be pretty nasty looking. There isn't one even there!!!! That crap from the bottom of my tank went straight into the carbs. Now on my way to get a new clear hose and fuel filter. I am surprised I didn't have trouble like this before without a filter in the thing. Whoever had this bike before didn't give a **** about keeping it maintained.


http://i.imgur.com/zMqAlk0.jpg