Has anybody had a good time trying to re install air box after re installing carbies? I'm having a bitch of a time trying to get the ports to slip over the intake ports on the carbies let alone put the springs on and try to slip the ports over the caribes. Have given up on it today as there is very limited space to slip them on without the bottom of the rubbers catching on the carbies and giving me the McSh*ts.

Any inspiration would be appreciated.

I usually leave the springs on, but roll them back away from the opening. Push the airbox forward until at least one part of each rubber has slipped over the carb lip. Then use a torch and a long thin flat blade screwdriver to coax the rest of the rubber to slip onto the carb. Sometimes heating the rubbers with a hair dryer softens them making the job a little easier. By far the biggest help is to fit new rubbers, as they shrink & stiffen with age, getting harder with each passing year to fit, until they become impossible.

I usually leave the springs on, but roll them back away from the opening. Push the airbox forward until at least one part of each rubber has slipped over the carb lip. Then use a torch and a long thin flat blade screwdriver to coax the rest of the rubber to slip onto the carb. Sometimes heating the rubbers with a hair dryer softens them making the job a little easier. By far the biggest help is to fit new rubbers, as they shrink & stiffen with age, getting harder with each passing year to fit, until they become impossible.

Thanks mate that's given me a few ideas to attack it tomorrow with. I'd have to say that it's probably the worst airbox design I've come across but I've only ever worked on a hand full of bikes.

I'm thinking you guys are in Australia or something. When you said "Torch" it means something totally different here in the US.

As far as the stiff rubber, I have heard of people spraying them down repeatedly with tire grease - that stuff people use to shine their car tires. It soaks in to the rubber and can make it come back a little.

To add to my woes I decided it was far far easier to just take the rear fender off so I could just slide the airbox back and reattach the springs in the correct position and ensure this woeful design of an airbox is properly fitted to the carbs. Anyway on pulling off the gearbox breather tube I noticed that the air filter oil (lacking the distinct viscosity of most air filter oil) has started to leak into the bottom of the air box and down the breather tube and into the F**CKING gearbox. I'm starting to think a set of K&N pod filters with some serious rejetting and some aftermarket pipes is the way this project is headed.

Anybody know is overdosing on filter oil and having this problem will affect gearbox performance?

The breather tube can splash oil into the airbox. This starts happening about 7000 RPM. So its probably that which you saw and you want it to go back to the engine. But a lot of it ends up getting sucked into the engine.

If you haven't already, you might want to look at my video on removing the carbs in 6 minutes. It might help answer some questions.

AD5br8HCfn0

The breather tube can splash oil into the airbox. This starts happening about 7000 RPM. So its probably that which you saw and you want it to go back to the engine. But a lot of it ends up getting sucked into the engine.

If you haven't already, you might want to look at my video on removing the carbs in 6 minutes. It might help answer some questions.

AD5br8HCfn0

I think my issue was too much crap quality air filter oil which then subsequently drained into the bottom of the airbox and has been sucked into the gearbox breather vent hole. Is that what your talking about?

I think my issue was too much crap quality air filter oil which then subsequently drained into the bottom of the airbox and has been sucked into the gearbox breather vent hole. Is that what your talking about?

I doubt it will hurt anything.

I doubt it will hurt anything.

Thanks for that. The video you made is exactly how I removed the air-box (i.e. the proper way.

I usually leave the springs on, but roll them back away from the opening. Push the airbox forward until at least one part of each rubber has slipped over the carb lip. Then use a torch and a long thin flat blade screwdriver to coax the rest of the rubber to slip onto the carb. Sometimes heating the rubbers with a hair dryer softens them making the job a little easier. By far the biggest help is to fit new rubbers, as they shrink & stiffen with age, getting harder with each passing year to fit, until they become impossible.

Thanks for your input. The only successful way to install the carbs and air box is how n4mwd has describedf it in his video. I used his method and everything just slides on with minimal effort. If you try to do it any other way it will just take longer and create more work IMO.

There's always pods.

There's always pods.

Yeah but I've read mixed reviews about installing pods. Plus there is the rejetting and zorst extra $$$. I just don't think it's worth it on this bike. Sure the GPX is a trusty stead and I actually bought one with a full license and my days of riding power are over and I just want a nice simply easy to maintain machine that's good for commuting.

Also once you actually install everything in the correct order the correct way it's relatively easy. The first sign that something didn't fit correctly and I just left the bike and came back to it the next day after doing more research and sure enough I was installing it wrong every time and blind rage just gets in the way of a good install every single time.

I am actually thinking of going to EFI because I am tired of messing with carbs and I want something that's adaptable to different altitudes and climates.

I'm thinking you guys are in Australia or something. When you said "Torch" it means something totally different here in the US.


Yes it's hard for us to decipher some of your terms too.:D

AUS < > USA

Torch = flashlight
Fuel / petrol = Gas
Gas (LPG) = ??
Fuel tap = Petcock

Perhaps there needs to be a thread listing all the different terminology?

Yes it's hard for us to decipher some of your terms too.:D

AUS < > USA

Torch = flashlight
Fuel / petrol = Gas
Gas (LPG) = ??
Fuel tap = Petcock

Perhaps there needs to be a thread listing all the different terminology?

fuel/Gas/gasoline for the car/lawnmower is petrol
gas for the house/torch is LP gas/natural gas/butane gas/acetylene gas
Fuel taps don't have petcocks, but petcocks are also a valved fuel tap.