hoping that it will fix a bog at high rpms. i shimmed each needle with 1 washer each. just thought id share. its raining so i cant test till it clears up. might have to put 2 on.
any one else get bog at high rpm 8k+ any one else experience this?

also while i had the diaphragm out it was wet(gas), i herd its not suppose to be... is this true?

read up on how carbs work :thumbup:

It has been said here many many times.

A carb reacts to throttle input not so much rpms

8k rpms 1/4 throttle and 8k rpm WOT are to completely different things involving 2 completely different jet circuits.

Focus more on your throttle input and how the bike responds vs rpm

think in 1/4's and you should be alright, 1/4throttle, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT

Then let us know where your bog is in relation to throttle input and we might just be able to help you out.

It is possible that shimming your needles did nothing at all to fix your bog if it is a WOT bog. You could shim till the cows come home and not fix the problem in that instance.

So again, go for a ride and take note of throttle position and how the bike reacts

hoping that it will fix a bog at high rpms. i shimmed each needle with 1 washer each. just thought id share. its raining so i cant test till it clears up. might have to put 2 on.
any one else get bog at high rpm 8k+ any one else experience this?

also while i had the diaphragm out it was wet(gas), i herd its not suppose to be... is this true?
As sub noted, you need to think more in terms of throttle position and not RPMs.

For what you are looking for - fixing a bog at high RPMs - you will be dealing with the main jet for the most part. That assumes you are running on the main jet only at that point - throttle is wide open, RPMs are in high range and the slides have had time to lift completely.

Shimming the needles gives you a richer mixture at a given throttle opening by lifting the needle out of the jet more, so that will help a lean condition or stumble as the slides are lifting. Once the slides have lifted completely the needles are clear of the jet and have almost no effect on the mixture.

Go up in main jet size if you feel you have a lean bog at high RPM and WOT.

Thanks for the reply!
The throttle position would be all the way back till it stops. I'm not really looking forward to pull the carbs. But I don't like how it's running. I guess I'll buy a few different size main jets and do the trial and error thing.

You don't necessarily have to "pull the carbs" With the right tools you can often get access to the bowls and remove them and the jets without actually removing the entire carb.

If you try this with the wrong tools it can be a complete PITA and you often strip the bowl screws as well which is an even bigger PITA.

My advice is read up
on changing jets without removing carbs
what jets you should be looking at as a starting point for tuning your carb based on your current mods/setup

Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Tighten all the screws on both sets of boots and check for rips. You sure the carbs were clean and the jets and jet pathways were clear? The carbs push into the boots near the engine pretty far.

You don't necessarily have to "pull the carbs" With the right tools you can often get access to the bowls and remove them and the jets without actually removing the entire carb.

If you try this with the wrong tools it can be a complete PITA and you often strip the bowl screws as well which is an even bigger PITA.

My advice is read up
on changing jets without removing carbs
what jets you should be looking at as a starting point for tuning your carb based on your current mods/setup
i will forsure look into this. i have most standard tools for you at home type shop. i have a vw always needs work =/
but thanks for the tips.

Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Tighten all the screws on both sets of boots and check for rips. You sure the carbs were clean and the jets and jet pathways were clear? The carbs push into the boots near the engine pretty far.

when i shimmed the needles i tightened up everything and looked at all hoses. i didnt see any rips ot tears anywhere. it all looked tip top.
when i bought the bike the guy said the carbs where cleaned and all fluids where changed. and valves checked. i took his word for it. seemed like an alright guy.

when i shimmed the needles i tightened up everything and looked at all hoses. i didnt see any rips ot tears anywhere. it all looked tip top.
when i bought the bike the guy said the carbs where cleaned and all fluids where changed. and valves checked. i took his word for it. seemed like an alright guy.

If it sat for more then 3 weeks without stabilizer it probably needs a quick clean at least the jets and main jet holder. I had the same issues with a bike a bought used and was told the carbs were cleaned. They ended up needing new float needles and a good cleaning.

Did this "bogging" start all of the sudden, out of the blue?

Or did the bike get modified prior to the bog?

Did this "bogging" start all of the sudden, out of the blue?

Or did the bike get modified prior to the bog?

the "bog" happened right after i bought the bike. it went away for a little bit about a month or so.
i recently went on a weekend ride and when i returned home it started over again. this was prior to the slipons.