Ok, so I've checked my valve clearances and the exhaust valves are all too tight. To adjust this it's not as simple as with OHV engines and you have to remove the cams. To accomplish THIS:

mod edit from below post:

WORD OF CAUTION!!!

The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure.

The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."


Step 1 - Remove the CCT
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Cam_Chain_Tensoner.jpg
Remove the 10mm center bolt in the Camshaft Chain Tensioner. Then remove the (2) outer 8mm bolts. The CCT should pull out easily.

Step 2 - Time the engine
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Turn_Engine.jpg
Turn the engine over (again use a 14mm socket and turn clock-wise). You're going to look in the alternator cover inspection hole (the little hole about 6 inches above THIS hole) until you see "2|T" in the middle.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Cylinder_2_TDC.jpg
I couldn't for the life of me get a good picture of this. Either there was too much light and it would create a glare, or like this not enough light to see the markings. Oh well.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg
With any 4-stroke engine you'll hit "2|T" TWICE per complete engine cycle. I made sure that I had the engine on "2|T" (which is cylinder #2 at TDC) at the end of i's compression stroke. The camshafts should line up as you can see in the picture above. Notice the two white dots face eachother? Timed!

Step 3 - Loosen camshaft cap bolts.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Cam_Cap_Bolts.jpg
These little 8mm bastards are pretty tight, but still exercise care when removing them. I always suggest when removing and installing camshaft caps to use a 'crossing' pattern instead of simply removing one cap at a time.

Step 4 - Loosen camshaft top-chain guide/caps
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Cam_Cap-3.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Cam_Cap-4.jpg

Then you can remove the camshaft caps:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Cam_Caps.jpg
WATCH OUT here:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Exercise_Caution.jpg

Notice the (4) outter and (2) inner dowel pins? They're not pressed in, but they are 'floating'. Meaning you need to be careful when pulling the camshaft caps that these don't come out (and then fall into the engine). They're there to keep the camshaft caps (and the two center ones for aligning the valve cover). They WILL pull up especially if you don't lift the camshaft caps up evenly.

Anywho...

Step 5 - Remove camshafts
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Cams.jpg
Oh joy of joys! If you push on the chain a little it should push the camshaft tensioner outward and put some slack into the chain. Lift the chain away from one sprocket at a time and remove the camshaft. Afterwards drape the chain over the side of the head so you don't have to fish it out of the engine later .

Step 6 - Remove tappets
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Lifters.jpg
They'll wiggle out (some of them might need some needle nose plier assistance). You can see I've removed one of the exhaust valve tappets here. I've popped the shim loose and you can see it laying inside the cover. They'll all stick to the tappet which is handy as you don't have to worry much about them falling into the engine while you remove them.

Important - Put them caps in ORDER
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Remove_Lifters-2.jpg
I've just tossed them all on a piece of carboard in order. This comes in handy as I can write the shim thicknesses directly above each tappet.

Step 7 - Measure the shims.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Measuring_Shims-2.jpg
Most people have dial calipers which work fine or...

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Measuring_Shims.jpg
I prefer micrometers though as they often have higher degrees of accuracy.


Now... DON'T get confused with the conversions. I measured the lash with SAE standard feeler gauges. I then measured the shims ALSO in inches. You can convert in the last step (The less conversion you do the less the room for error). While each shim should have a number on each side of it which translates to a thickness on a chart these numbers are hard to read. That's why it's still wise to physically measure them. When you have the new shims though you can rely on the printed numbers on the shims...

Note: This is an example with the measurement (It just happens to be MY example). Your results probably WILL vary, so unlike jetting, you can't use 'basline' numbers. It has to be exact :D

So to find the 'new shim' heights here's my math (ALL in inches):

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
Lash = ________.0065_____.0080_______.0070_____.0060
Shim = ________.1112_____.1102_______.1112_____.1083
Total =________.1177______.1182______.1182_____.1143

Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
Lash = _________.0095_____.0070_____.0080_____.0080
Shim = _________.1112_____.1112_____.1112_____.1112
Total =_________.1207_____.1182_____.1192_____.1192

Then you subtract what you WANT the total lash to be (in this case I'm looking for .010" on the exhaust and .0085" on the intake). This gives you your 'ideal' shim thickness.

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
_____________.1077_____.1082_____.1082______.1043
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
_____________.1122_____.1097_____.1107______.1107

NOW I convert to metric and round to match shims on Kawaski charts:
Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
______________2.80______2.75_______2.75______2.65
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
______________2.85______2.80______2.825_____2.825

Late edit by Vex with some updated information: Where I listed the total lash? That's kind of unnecessary. I think I originally intended on putting the DIFFERENCE in valve lash required so the column should read: Difference from ideal: .0035 .002 .003 .004 for the exhaust and: -.001 .0015 .0005 .0005 for the intake. Formatting is a pain in the butt for those to get the spacing so I apologize in advance for that.


Whammy!

Got things back together and here are some notable things upon re-installation:

1.) Remove the two seals that seal the spark plug holes from the underside of the valve cover:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Valve_Cover_Gasket.jpg
and set them over the holes on the head. I didn't do this at first and one moved and got crushed. This caused an oil leak which I discovered quick enough...

RE-installing the CCT:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/ReInstalling_CCT.jpg
You need to 'reset' the CCT before reinstalling it!! This entails removing the 10mm bolt and inserting a little flat blade screwdriver. You're supposed to turn this clockwise (which in turn causes the shaft to pull backwards into the CCT housing... This is tricky to accomplish in this tight area so I....

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/ReInstalling_CCT-2.jpg

Held the little screwdriver with one hand and turned the housing COUNTER-clockwise (thus doing the same thing as simply turning the screwdriver clockwise). Once you can't turn this any more fully press the housing into the block and put one of the 8mm bolts in to hold things. THEN you can let go of the flat-blade screwdriver, install the other 8mm housing bolt and then lastly the 10mm cap.
_

Thanks for posting this w/ pics. I know how much of a PITA it is to work and take pics at the same time with dirty hands.

so, what difference did the valve adjustment make to the power of the bike?

Thanks for posting this w/ pics. I know how much of a PITA it is to work and take pics at the same time with dirty hands.

so, what difference did the valve adjustment make to the power of the bike?
I had noticed the bike getting a little, "sloppy" during acceleration. Now the powerband seems perfectly smooth. So while it didn't get me any power (wasn't expecting it) everything is a lot more responsive. I think about now the bike is running tip-top :D

... I was going to say it's running like new, but as we all know from the factory they didn't run nearly this well :happy100:

... I was going to say it's running like new, but as we all know from the factory they didn't run nearly this well :happy100:

ain't that the truth! :scooter:

How hard was it getting new shims. I don't look forward to waiting months, if mine are out.

That depends on how well stocked your local Kawasaki dealer is and which ones you need.

I think Vex had his in a matter of days, but I'll let him answer to confirm.

I ordered mine through one of the online OEM vendors (I just happen to use CheapCycleParts.com). I always suggest if you're going to order through them to order other things like screws and bolts which might have disappeared (as their shipping costs are like $10 if you order 1 bolt or 100 of them).

I had them in like 2-3 business days. They're $7 a pop so make sure you measure and re-measure your lash and shim thicknesses so you can ensure you don't have to order more than necessary. I was able to re-use most of the shims and only had to order about 3 of them (not bad considering there's 8 valves and they were almost all way off). Record in your service manual the shim thicknesses that you wind up using so the next adjustment goes easier (If you KNOW what shims are in there then you don't need to pull the cams on the next check).

Thanks, I wasn't sure if these exact shims were used in other models

How did you go about keeping the engine timed during re installation?

You don't You don't time it PER SE until after you get the cams back in:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Exercise_Caution.jpg
You line the dots up on the cams and in the inspection hole you turn then engine over to 2|T (Or 1|T depending on which way you have the cam dots lined up). Once these three things are all lined up then you can put the CCT in and buckle everything down.

Thanks. I figured that was how it was done. Is that how the service manual does it?

If I remember correctly the manual pulls one of those, "Installation is the same as dissassembly, but in reverse :p Hell the only thing that I almost overlooked was the procedure for re-installing the CCT. If you do that wrong I'm sure bad things would happen :) .

If/when you do your shims the cam timing only makes sense. If when the engine is on 2T (which happens TWICE per complete engine cycle) the cam dots line up (which is coincedently the last step you do before yanking the cams) then when reassembling it is logical to match those conditions.

wow... i've only done valves on thumper dirtbike motors. much easier and can be done in 10 minutes.

this looks more like a real project!

Yes, my thinking exactly. I used to own an Enfield single with pushrod valves. It was _very_ easy to adjust. You just needed one wrench and a coin to open the valve cover to peek inside. It took about 5 minutes to check the valves.

The new-gens look like an all-day job even if you have a clue what you're doing....

At what intervals do they suggest the valve clearance be checked at in the new gen 250R?

BRP (for my Spyder) recommends checking them every 6K miles which seems excessive to me. I had them checked (on the Spyder) at 6,200 and won't have them checked again until about 21K (skipping the 12K and doing the 18K late because of our trip in September). I only know of a few people that had to have them adjusted but they all had well over 35K miles before this happened.... one was as late as 42K. The Spyder has a Rotax 998 V-twin.

The recommended intervals on the new-gen ninjette are 7.5k. Mine had zero out of spec at the first interval, and I'll have 'em checked again at 15k. Some people have had some out of spec at 7.5k. I wish Yamaha would sprinkle their pixie valve dust magic on other manufacturer's bikes; the valve check interval on even their sportiest bikes is 26k miles. Even on an R6 that revs past 16k rpm!

I see.... then that definitely makes the every 6K on the Rotax 998 V-twin that powers the Spyder seem really excessive. The motor is 4 times larger and is typically runs below 6k RPM at all times. Even at 80 MPH in 5th gear I'm at about 6K.... and that's well above the speed limit. I typically run her at about 5,200 - 5,500 RPM when cruising on the freeway at about 70.

Thanks for the info.... you're right about Yamaha, they need to share... 26K intervals for valve check is a godsend. That means most owners probably won't ever have more than 1 or 2 valve checks in the amount of time they own the bike... if that. Makes me wonder what those valves are made out of.

Two things to add:

From experience, if you TIE the cam chain up so it stays in tension with the crank gear, it can prevent the chain from "falsely" seating with a link bound out of place. That way, when you get everything back together and crank the motor over, that bound link doesn't shift onto the gear properly and make the cam chain "jump" over a tooth on one of the cams. You can guess the rest. In my case, it ate a valve and piston.

2nd: Even knowing what the shim is when you do you next check, if there is slack, you need to remeasure that shim to make sure it didn't deform during use. If you base your measurement off your notes, get the new shim based on the old shim, and its been deformed, then you may be replacing the shim with an over sized shim which will make everything really tight. Yup, been there did that one too...

A suggestion is also see if you can get a slim digital cam over the valve ends on MACRO and see if you can get some good pics of the ends. It can let you know if the valve is mushrooming oddly which could be an indication that the valve is binding as it moves.

Thanks for the DIY! Very well done!

Great suggestion on the zip ties, I have been doing that that ever since checking valves on the ole 450r. I do have a question about this and have come across this in the shop manual too. When checking the clearance on each cylinder respectively do you rotate the motor to 1T for CY1 and 2T for CYL2? I don't see this in the manual or here but have always been taught to check valve clearance at TDC. Sounds logically to me but wanted to clarify.

-Trip

It depends on how anal you are. Like anything, yes the textbook way to check valve lash on an engine is to put a cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and check it, but when you start wrenching on 6+ cylinder engines there's a "short cut" that actually delivers better results.

They suggest checking each cylinder at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke as both valves are shut. To ensure absolute accuracy I kind of cheat and crank the engine until I can phycially see a pair of cam lobes pointing 180 degrees away from the cap. Usually on an engine one cylinder might have a valve(s) completely shut and on the base circle (so there's no chance that you might be a tad past TDC and just starting on the ramp on the exhaust valve on a long duration camshaft) another valve(s) will also be completely shut on a different cylinder. In that respect you can still check multiple valves at a time.

With OHC engines it's easy to see, with OHV engines often times people have charts to common engine families to this so you can do the same thing (even though you can't physically see the camshaft's position). With solid cammed race engines I'd always have the chart for that engine family and I could pop the valve covers, watch the distributor with the cap off, and go through the sequence quickly and accurately. I only use the timing marks on this engine for making sure you get the cams timed correctly upon reassembly.

Thanks Vex, I actually check my Aprilia (V-Twin) the second way you suggested-much easier then trying to line up the marks.

This guy has a different approach to shims that are too thick.

http://www.ducatisuite.com/valves.html

I have read about this approach to adjusting shim type valves someplace else too, but I'm not sure where.

Has anyone done this with ninja shims?

Vex, when re-installing the cams after re-shimming, should it matter which 2|T we're at so long as the crankshaft is at one of them?

I might've done a bad thing and not double-checked which 2|T I was at before pulling the cams, trying to decide how far up the creek I am... :o

Edit: FSM just says to turn the crankshaft over til 2|T before reinstalling camshafts, so I *think* I'm ok. Guess I'll find out when I put it all back together, unless someone pipes up with a way to check. :(

Seems to run OK, so either it doesn't matter which 2|T you reassemble at (which agrees with the way the manual's worded) or I won the 50/50 chance of getting the right one @ random.

if you put it back together at the other 2|T i would assume that just means the opposite cylinder was at TDC. assuming that the 250R has a wasted spark ignition system (both plugs fire all the time) and that it has carbs then the bike will start right up. if it had fuel injection and was not wasted spark then the cylinders would be out of sync and it wouldn't work out so well.

someone tell me if i'm wrong here please.

I may be wrong, but I'm fairly sure 2|T refers to Cylinder #2 at TDC (FSM mentions the relationship between Cyl#2 and 2|T marking). There's also a 1|T marking, I assume for Cylinder #1 at TDC. From what I recall reading, the engine just hits TDC for each cylinder twice per revolution of the crankshaft. Those with more knowledge, please :target: me if I've spoken incorrectly.

As for the ignition system, I'm not sure, but given the simplicity of design on this bike I wouldn't be surprised if it is a wasted spark system but don't know one way or the other.

Littledog, I tried that method (sanding shim to spec) with the round of valve shimming I just did and like it. While you still need to buy bigger shims periodically and it takes a little time, it still allows re-use and tailoring the shim for a better clearance. And I've got a lot of glass tables, so it was easy to make sure the shim was reasonably flat

on second thought, i should have thought about it more. the engine hits TDC for each cylinder twice per complete revolution of the crankshaft once for the ignition of its air/fuel mixture, and once before it lets the spent gases out (while the other cylinder is igniting). whichever of the 2|T's it is on doesn't matter. just don't take out the sensor at 2|T and put it back in at 1|T!

Yeah, definitely don't want to put the cams back in on 1|T, that'd be bad. Thanks for explaining it a bit to me, makes a bunch more sense now: one intake/combustion cycle, one exhaust cycle per crankshaft revolution per cylinder. Hence 4-cycle, 2 cylinder motor.

Momaru, how hard is it to adjust/shim the bike on diff level of 1 to 10?
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Provided you've got the right tools, lubricants, etc on hand and a shop that stocks our shim size (7.48mm diameter).

I'd give it a solid 6.

It's a bit of a hassle draining/removing the coolant system (not 100% necessary but gives you a lot more room to work) and pulling an engine mount bracket just to get into the engine head. The cooling pipe that goes into the top aft end of the engine is a little annoying to get the cover around. But once you've got things disassembled, it's not too bad so long as you trust yourself with feeler gauges and a micrometer. This was my first time with real feeler gauges, so I must've measured each valve lash 6 times.

The biggest patience-stretcher is getting shims of the right size; most places seem to only have increments of .05mm, but they vary a little from one shim to the next. I wound up breaking out some 300 and 600-grit sandpaper on my glass-topped coffee table to wet-sand the shims down closer to spec. That said, I'm now dead center of clearance ranges.
I'm also confident there's no gravel floating around the top end of my engine and the gaskets aren't fouled/folded. Both of those were true when I opened it up, having taken it to a local shop for my 7500mi checkup. I won't be returning to them for maintenance. Ever.

All in all, I'm 95% sure I did it right (bike cranked up and ran fine long enough to warm up in 14" of snow) and think it was time well spent.

First of all, Vex - TJ thank you for this EXCELLENT guide to valve adjustment.

I took on this project this past weekend, and ran from my shop to the house about 43 times to look at your pictures. I am exaggerating only a little bit.

I also have the FSM (flying spaggetti monster? no. well actually yes, or at least I'd like to think so, but I meant the factory service manual) to consult. there is a picture guide on ninja.org that is also nice.

I did a couple of things differently than Vex. First I removed everything that was removable and even sort of in the way. In particular, I followed the FSM advice to remove the radiator. I also removed the coolant overflow tank. This involves undoing the clutch cable as well, which follows a very (imho) not obvious path from the engine side to the lever. The FSM has a nice diagram of this cable route as well as EVERY other cable -hose-wire route.

These extra dis-assembly steps made removing the valve cover very easy, but made very little difference otherwise. I had to drain the coolant (as per FSM) I re installed the old coolant.

Here is a table of my valve measurements:

Front of bike

E clearance old .009 .010 .008 .009
E clearance new .010 .010 .011 .011
E shim size old .116 .115 .115 .114
E shim size new .114 .114 .112 .112

I clearance old .007 .007 .007 .005
I clearance new .007 .008 .007 .007
I shim size old .115 .116 .116 .116
I shim size new .114 .115 .115 .113

My gauges are inch gauges in the 1/1000 of an inch. I probed every clearance several (~5) times with different gauges. ( I have go-no go gauges with markings go .009 no go .011 for example). The first clearance of .009 means that an .009 gauge fit and an .010 did not. I measure shims with an empire brand (made in china, bought at sears, it has markings down to .0005, 1/2 of 1/1000) micrometer.

Interpreting these numbers, the .008 old on #3 exhaust and the .005 on # 4 intake are tighter than specified in the FSM.

I wet sanded the shims, using 400 grit carborundum with water. My target was .011 on the exhaust side and .008 on the intake side. the carborundum paper was taped to the cast iron table of a large woodworking band saw. (it is pretty flat). Using this method (little circles around a big circle motion) it took about 10 minutes to reduce a shim by .001. I made a lot of measurements; I am pretty sure I did not made the flat shims into wedges, at least down to my measurement capacity.

I sanded the side that was NOT against the valve stem. There was a very obvious wear pattern from the valve stem touching the shim. I put all of the shims back in with the same side against the valve stem. They all got a blob of moly grease.

By swapping shims around, the second column E and I are both un sanded shims.

At the end of the summer or when I have 15k mi on my ninja I will tear down again and measure. I will post here again what I find, and describe what I do.

I am not claiming that sanding shims is a good idea, or that this approach works as well as buying new shims , I make no claim at all. I am just describing the work I did on my bike.


Oh the results. The ninja runs exactly like it did before I opened it up. Nicely. Smooth power well past 10k rpm, no alarming noises.

So I'm at my 12K service (more like 12.8K :o), and I finished measuring my valve lash. Just pulled off the tappets and have the shims ready to measure, but need to grab a different measurement tool, since mine only does 0.1mm increments.

EX (mm)
1 0.23
2 0.20
3 0.22
4 0.28

IN (mm)
5 0.21
6 0.20
7 0.18
8 0.20

So 3 of my exhaust valves are tight, with only 1 out of spec. My intake valves are pretty close to the midrange of the spec.

I'll need to adjust the exhaust valves for sure, while the intakes could technically be left alone. However, I am debating adjusting them anyway to 0.195 mm, just because I have everything open now, and it'd be nice to balance them.

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
Lash = _________0.23_______0.20_______0.22_______0.28
Shim = _________2.75_______2.72_______2.76_______2.66
Total = _________2.98______2.92_______2.98_______2.94

Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
Lash = _________0.21_______0.20_______0.18_______0.20
Shim = _________2.75_______2.74_______2.70_______2.80
Total = _________2.96______2.94_______2.88_______3.00

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
_____________2.725_____2.665_____2.725______2.685
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
_____________2.765_____2.745_____2.685______2.805

With rounding, I need:

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
_____________2.725_____2.675_____2.725______2.675
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
_____________2.775_____2.75_____2.675______2.80

Thus, the shim from valve 2 will go to valve 1, the shim from valve 4 will go to valve 2, valves 5, 6, and 8 will remain untouched. I need to order the shims for valves 3, 4, and 7.

Here is one small issue I have though. I'm about 90% confident in these measurements. However, I was able to read/infer some of the markings, and my shim measurements don't jive with the marks on some of the shims.

Is it possible for shims to suffer wear and become slightly thinner? The differences I saw were on the order of 0.1mm. I'm not entirely sure if this is due to some systemic error in my digital thickness gauge or due to wear. That said, I did verify its correct functionality against my feeler gauges. It is dependent on positioning/movement, but with the gauges, I was close to spot-on.

I would hate the order the shims, wait 2 days, install them, only to find my valve clearances are not what I intended to put.

So found out a LOT of things today that I'll share.

The FSM has a huge range of possible shims, with part numbers for them. They basically move in 0.025 increments. Oddly though, the x.5 and x.0 have sequential part numbers, while the x.(2/7)5 shims have their own sequential part numbers.

Turns out, there's a reason for this. You can't order shims that are in between the x.5 and x.0 increments. Neither Kahuna nor CheapCycleParts have them. So basically, you can only get shims that change in 0.5mm increments. So this had implications for what valves I would actually adjust.

As a result, I am definitely NOT touching the intake valves. Intake 7 was a possible candidate for a new shim, but only with a 0.025mm drop. Since that's not possible, I'm leaving it as is. Also, exhaust 4 will remain untouched.

So I needed to adjust exhaust valves 1-3. I took all of my tappets and shims (in individually labeled plastic bags) to Kahuna. When I called, they suggested I bring in the shims to have them swapped. I also brought my digital thickness gauge I bought from Princess Auto. Boy am I glad I brought everything.

Turns out, my gauge is a piece of ****. It was off by 0.1-0.15mm. Had we not remeasured the shims using the mechanic's gauge, I would've ordered the wrong shims. I had a feeling when I first measured them yesterday, thank goodness I went with my gut!

So we remeasured the exhaust shims, and swapped them accordingly. Here are the new values.

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
Lash = _________0.23_______0.20_______0.22_______0.28
Shim = _________2.83_______2.85_______2.88_______2.77
Total = _________3.06______3.05_______3.10_______3.05

So the shims I needed:

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
_____________2.805_____2.795_____2.845______2.795

So we swapped for two 2.80mm shims, and one 2.85mm shim. I suppose I could have swapped the number 4 shim too, but my understanding is that it's preferable to keep valves looser, especially for exhaust.

Props to Kahuna for taking the time to help me out, and swap the shims for me. I bought a couple of spark plugs too, even though I didn't really need to (I was on the fence about changing my existing ones). Figured they helped me enough, so why not?

Anyway, now that I have all my shims here at work with me, I'm going to measure them with our tools here and get the proper values.

Such an ordeal, but glad its finally almost over!

Okay, I'm going to tackle this job for the winter and I have a stupid question to ask: Do I have to drain the oil to perform this job?

Man, pre-gen's were so much easier to work on. LOL!

Okay, I'm going to tackle this job for the winter and I have a stupid question to ask: Do I have to drain the oil to perform this job?

Man, pre-gen's were so much easier to work on. LOL!

not according to the manual. but i think you need to flush the cooling system because that's required to remove the cylinder head

Having done the valve check/adjust at least three times, I can honestly say it's certainly not necessary to drain the oil. If you're the right combination of tricksy and lazy, you can even get by without draining the coolant, but if you bump a hose the wrong way things will be getting very very green & slippery.

And for what it's worth, I STRONGLY advise taking all measurements a least twice, including the valve lash before you pull the cams and measuring the shims with a micrometer. The shim set I bought from Hot Cams varied about .015mm plus or minus the rated measurement and I've seen similar variances with other brands. The bright side of that is if you're patient, you can get considerably more precise with hitting the 'sweet spot' of the valve clearances.

\
And for what it's worth, I STRONGLY advise taking all measurements a least twice, including the valve lash before you pull the cams and measuring the shims with a micrometer. The shim set I bought from Hot Cams varied about .015mm plus or minus the rated measurement and I've seen similar variances with other brands. The bright side of that is if you're patient, you can get considerably more precise with hitting the 'sweet spot' of the valve clearances.

what diameter shims did you order from hotcams? 7.48mm?

Correct, our shiims are 7.48mm diameter. For clarity, the variance I was talking about was the thickness.

Thx guys. I'm a bit nervous about tackling this job but it probably just sounds harder than it is.

Don't you guys order the shims from a Kawi dealer (not fuss about the wrong shims and what not)?

Each single shim is ~5$ at the dealer. while you can get something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOTCAMS-HOT-CAMS-7-48-VALVE-SHIM-KIT-KAWASAKI-KX250F-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a97a3fc79QQitemZ320371686521QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPart sQ5fAccessories#ht_1854wt_1167

or

http://www.amazon.com/CAMS-VALVE-SHIM-7-48MM-HCSHIM01/dp/B000GVA2RE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289798133&sr=8-1

3x of a whole bunch of widths

Omgosh...I took off the CCT last night then went back to this thread and re-read the whole thread and I'm freakin' confused.

Do I buy the shims first or take them all out and measure them? WTHeck is with the conversions? LOL!

Where do you buy the tool to measure shims? Harborfreight?

I understand the shims but what's this "lash" talk?

I'd suggest buying a shim set before even starting. Otherwise you may be waiting a while to get shims (and either have your bike open, or have to reassemble it,then disassemble it again) if you don't have a local shop that keeps them stocked.

There's a few levels to the conversions. First there's the metric-SAE conversion, but that's just between fractions of an inch and millimeters. Then there's the math that relates the valve clearance (the 'lash') and the shim thickness. There's an excel file posted on the Yeager's ninjette page that will do most of the math for ya. I think it's linked on this thread or a related one.

The tool to measure the shims is known as a micrometer. I bought mine at Sears, but you should be able to find one at most hardware stores.

The lash is just the other half of the important measurement in valve clearances. It's the greatest gap between the top of the cap that sits on top of the shim and the cam with its lobe facing away from the valve

THis is the kit I bought from Powersport Superstore: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJWTM6/

You can use a micrometer or a caliper. Get one that is digital (easier to read) and does metric. Then get feeler gauges that are labeled in metric. That way, you own't have to convert.

http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008_ninja_250_valve_clearance.htm

Also, I did the valves a week back and it's still fresh in my head so post up any questions.

Thanks for that link.I have been looking for a set.

You can use a micrometer or a caliper. Get one that is digital (easier to read) and does metric. Then get feeler gauges that are labeled in metric. That way, you own't have to convert.

http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008_ninja_250_valve_clearance.htm

Much agreed; buy metric, save some pain. The Hot Cams set is also what I used. just make sure to measure each shim before you put 'em in. In my experience they vary a little bit shim to shim.

Thanks for posting the Yeager link; was @ work when I replied earlier so didn't have time to hunt it down.

I also did my valves recently for the third time, so +1 to the 'available for questions' list, if the DIYs don't get it and Indrish doesn't beat me to it :D

Okay, next question: How in the world do you take off the top valve cover? I've taken out the four bolts and the cover loose but it's such a tight area there the cover won't come off.

It looks like the radiator hose is preventing me from completely taking it off. Do I have to remove the hose? I rather not...is there another way?

Okay, next question: How in the world do you take off the top valve cover? I've taken out the four bolts and the cover loose but it's such a tight area there the cover won't come off.

It looks like the radiator hose is preventing me from completely taking it off. Do I have to remove the hose? I rather not...is there another way?

It is possible to take off the cover without removing the hose. However, the hose goes into a metal tube at the back of the valve cover. that tube is just stuck into the cylinder head with an o-ring seal. It is real easy to dislodge that tube while you are wiggling the valve cover past the stuff in the way. If that tube comes out, then you get a bunch of coolant in the lubricated section of your motor. In my opinion, it is easier to drain the coolant and remove the hose, than it is to clean up the possible mess.

Thx.

I already have the coolant (water wetter actually..not coolant) drained out. I just can't wiggle the cover off. I mean, it's off but I can't completely remove cover out of the frame section. Just wondering if there was a trick to getting the cover out...like removing hoses, radiator, etc. which I'm really reluctant to do.

I'll give it another shot tonight. Thx.

Thx.

I already have the coolant (water wetter actually..not coolant) drained out. I just can't wiggle the cover off. I mean, it's off but I can't completely remove cover out of the frame section. Just wondering if there was a trick to getting the cover out...like removing hoses, radiator, etc. which I'm really reluctant to do.

I'll give it another shot tonight. Thx.

There is also a little bracket that bolts onto the frame that accepts the bolt from the top of the overflow. I found that easy to miss, and it has to come off.

GL, it can be done.

Make sure the right side engine mounting bolts are out.

Take off the hoses. Take off the coolant tank, the radiator, the fan, the horn.

It'll make it easier to take it out and put back in. But even after that, it takes a bit of manuevering.

PS: take off the cover from the right side.

Make sure the right side engine mounting bolts are out.

Take off the hoses. Take off the coolant tank, the radiator, the fan, the horn.

It'll make it easier to take it out and put back in. But even after that, it takes a bit of manuevering.

PS: take off the cover from the right side.

You also want to take off the right side engine mounting bracket (secured to the frame with a pair of 14mm bolts and to the engine via the front engine mounting bolt), as well as the ignition coil for the right cylinder, which will come with it. You don't have to take the front engine mounting bolt out all the way, but you will need to back it out enough for the bracket to come down & out. When you put it back in, you'll either want to have the engine supported on stand of some kind (I just used my car jack), to alleviate the stress on the bolt, or you should come back a couple of times later (after a ride or two) to check the torque on that bolt (if you don't have the engine supported, the pressure from the engine on the bolt can give you false torque readings).

Removing the coolant tank, radiator, fan & horn are all optional, but it makes the job a ton easier and minimizes the risk of poking a hole in your radiator. Removing some of the mounting bolts for that stuff is absolutely necessary though, so you can move it 'round.

Take a video of the process.

I finally got the valve cover off last night and what a freakin' PITA it was! The only way I was able to do this was to take off the cap (11065-0208) off the valve cover, disconnect the coolant hose leading into the valve and then twist/turn the upside down "J" shaped pipe forward. No way that thing was going to come out/off unless I did the above.

Man what a PITA it was.

Hey guys, I need your help.

When I line up the 2lT mark to the little metal marker in the alternator hole, the cams do not line up perfectly line in Vex's pic.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Cylinder_2_TDC.jpg

But when I line the cams up perfectly like the pic below the 2lT mark is passed the marker. Even after several revolutions.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg

Any idea why this is? Am I doing it right?

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg

With any 4-stroke engine you'll hit "2|T" TWICE per complete engine cycle. I made sure that I had the engine on "2|T" (which is cylinder #2 at TDC) at the end of i's compression stroke. The camshafts should line up as you can see in the picture above. Notice the two white dots face eachother? Timed!

Also the service manual mentions nothing about the EX & IN marks facing each other. Any help would be appreciated.

1T is when the cams for the first cylinder are facing away from one another

2T is when you see this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg) picture.

go to the left leg side of the bike. line it up so the cams that you can see are facing away from the shim bucket as much as possible.

then measure the two intake clearances and the two exhaust clearances for the left cylinder.

then, turn the engine so you end up with this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg). this is when you measure the two intake and the two exhaust for the right cylinder.

i was confused as **** too when i did it. hope it helps. post any more questions you might have or if it didn't make sense.

1T is when the cams for the first cylinder are facing away from one another

2T is when you see this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg) picture.

go to the left leg side of the bike. line it up so the cams that you can see are facing away from the shim bucket as much as possible.

then measure the two intake clearances and the two exhaust clearances for the left cylinder.

then, turn the engine so you end up with this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg). this is when you measure the two intake and the two exhaust for the right cylinder.

i was confused as **** too when i did it. hope it helps. post any more questions you might have or if it didn't make sense.

Thanks but shouldn't the cams look like this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll294/VeX86BirD/Check%20Valve%20Lash/Time_Engine.jpg) when I turn the crankshaft/cams/or whatever you call it and have it lined up with 2T from the left side?

That's the part I'm confused. I thought if I turn it from the left side to hit 2T that the cams would line up.

Is this not the case?

Yes. To get 2T, the two white marks should point to each other. Don't worry about the little marking on the sight hole. Mine wasn't accurate. Once you have 2T, you'd measure the clearance for the 2nd (right side cylinder). You don't measure the left cylinder clearance once you have 2T.

Yes. To get 2T, the two white marks should point to each other. Don't worry about the little marking on the sight hole. Mine wasn't accurate. Once you have 2T, you'd measure the clearance for the 2nd (right side cylinder). You don't measure the left cylinder clearance once you have 2T.

I had to read your post several times to understand exactly what you're saying. LOL

Okay..phew...I thought my engine was screwed when the ex. & in. mark didn't line up when I hit 2T in the sight hole.

Why don't our marks line up when we hit 2T in the sight hole like Vex's?

don't know. when I line up the two marks on the sprockets, I could SEE the 2T mark through the sigh hole (tho not aligned). When I went back to put the cams back on, I couldn't even find the mark. but everything worked fine when I put it back together.

Question: Do you have to do an oil change to do a valve job?

Here's why I ask: I spoke to a dealer and they quoted me a much lower price for just the valve change than the full 22,500 mile service. Even so, I can't afford it yet, but I do have the oil and filters ready to go. I don't want to change my oil with expensive Shell Rotella T6 just before they do this if they are just going to flush it out and do an oil change anyway as part of the valve service.

Thanks!

Edit: When I got my first valve service done they said that I had to leave my bike the entire day and pick it up the next day because the engine needed to be completely cool before they could do the service. If that is so, that's a pretty major thing to leave out of the OP. Were they full of it?

Oil doesn't have to be changed when adjusting valves.

The bike needs to be cooled down for several hours.

Oil doesn't have to be changed when adjusting valves.

The bike needs to be cooled down for several hours.

And I imagine even more so when you aren't taking the hot oil out. :thumbup:

Thanks!

Big thanks to VeX for writing these DIYs, and all who contributed! It's great to have a guide like this. :)

So I checked valve lash yesterday. My ninja is on ~14000 miles.
Decided to do it somewhat early as I have some free time now, and it's the first time I'm doing it myself.

The results are very consistent, surprisingly so. All the exhaust valves are ~0.25 mm, and all inlet valves are on ~0.18 mm. This is within spec, but not exactly in the middle, especially inlet valves.
Do you think I should adjust them now, or leave it be and check again within 5k miles, and adjust then?

I have a separate concern, though. Stick coils are rusty. It's the gaskets which are rusty, actually, and they look quite bad. (pictures) I will replace the gaskets with the new ones, and clean the stick coils, but I wonder if I should apply some silicone on the coils before putting them back on? Service manual says to just put them back in place, without any additional sealing. But some water has obviously escaped down there. Or is there some other reason for this rust?

I am also unsure about cylinder head gasket. I see no damage to it, and according to the manual it is not a replacement part, so there is no need to buy a new one, right? I should apply some silicone there, but I do not know if it should be all around, or just on the 2 spots marked in the manual?
Does anyone have any ideas?

Your valves are so close to middle-of-spec I'd leave 'em alone. Lucky bastid :D

Regarding the coil seals, I agree it looks like the spark plug boots haven't been sealing well, lettin' in some rain/wash water down the shaft. I'd consider replacing those seals, but in the meantime (or if you'd rather not) take a wire brush to the metal bits so it'll mate better, and hit it with just a little high-temp silicone. Make sure you don't use too much though. Also make sure they don't shift while you're putting the head cover back on... one did that to me and got crimped in a bad way, blocking the plug shaft. Regarding some silicone on the actual stick coil boots, I don't see why that would be a problem, aside from requiring some additional work (cleaning out, etc) when you need to pull them to check/replace plugs, etc. I mean, those seals should be water-tight to begin with. I'd potentially leave a little bit of each boot seal un-siliconed (perhaps @ the aft end, since it's most uphill and least likely to collect water), to allow air pressure to vent as the engine heats up.

Re: the head gasket, if you didn't fubar it removing it, I'd reuse it. Factory manual suggests just putting silicone in the designated areas (at the dips in the head next to the cam sprockets IIRC) but I always put a small bead all the way 'round. Provided you don't use too much, I don't see the harm other than a little more cleanup next time you're in there and it should (theoretically) help prevent leaks/blowout.

Thanks Paul!

What you say is what I was planning to do. Feels better to have a second opinion though. :)

What happened to the pictures. I'm thinking about doing this myself and pictures will give me better orientation.

Hey guys. I just recently did a valve adjustment to my girlfriend's 08 250r and when I went to start it, it fired up just fine then within a few seconds it started bogging down and the idle started dropping and it finally died. I started it again and this time it had a really hard time starting and once it does it idles fine then it starts dropping and dies. I want to see if you guys had any insight on what this might be? I am guessing I didn't time the engine right, but i wanted to see if anyone else knew anything about this before I start taking the bike apart again. Much thanks in advance for any help!

I just did a valve check/adjustment and when I got to the part to turn the engine over to make sure everything is working the camshafts won't move. The chain turned the sprockets but the lobes are not rotating. What could cause this?

I found out why the lobes weren't moving. apparently the camshafts broke right after the first lobe closest to the cam chain when i went to turn over the engine. I don't think I used enough force to do that but apparently I did. Does anyone know why this might happen?

Well, I've seen a few people lose a chunk of some kind of collar on the chain side but it always still worked.

Well, I've seen a few people lose a chunk of some kind of collar on the chain side but it always still worked.


I had this happen to me last night. Ordered a used cam set off feabay.

Im almost certain it broke removing the cam as it was lodged in the journal even with the chain off.

Also have you guys ever seen one set off valves completely off from the rest?

I was a little tight on all the valves except 2 exhaust valves were WAY tight on one cylinder.

How would I calculate the correct shim needed for my ninja 250?

For example. I measured the clearance and it has .18mm and when I measured it it was .111 which is 2.8194

If it's an inlet, do I do 2.82 + .18 - .195
If it's an exhaust, do I do 2.82. + .18 - .255

I did it this way and when I put everything back on, it seems like the clearance is still the same. Did I do something wrong? I did valve adjustment before but I forgot how to do the calculation. I think I saw a video or read a forum that said if you want more clearance subtract .205 from inlet and .265 from exhaust?

Use this Excel spreadsheet to do the calculations for you: http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008%20Ninja%20250%20Valve%20Clearance/EX250J_Valves.xls

Valve clearance:

Exhaust 0.22 ∼ 0.29 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0114 in.)
Inlet 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)

•Measure the thickness of the removed shim [A].

•Select a new shim thickness calculation as follows.
a + b – c = d
[a] Present Shim Thickness
[b] Measured Valve Clearance
[c] Specified Valve Clearance (Mean Value = 0.255 mm
(Exhaust), 0.195 mm (Inlet))
[d] Replace Shim Thickness

Example (Inlet):
2.90 + 0.45 – 0.195 = 3.155 mm
○Exchange the shim for the 3.175 size shim.

Use this Excel spreadsheet to do the calculations for you: http://www.theyeagergroup.com/2008%20Ninja%20250%20Valve%20Clearance/EX250J_Valves.xls

Valve clearance:

Exhaust 0.22 ∼ 0.29 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0114 in.)
Inlet 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)

•Measure the thickness of the removed shim [A].

•Select a new shim thickness calculation as follows.
a + b – c = d
[a] Present Shim Thickness
[b] Measured Valve Clearance
[c] Specified Valve Clearance (Mean Value = 0.255 mm
(Exhaust), 0.195 mm (Inlet))
[d] Replace Shim Thickness

Example (Inlet):
2.90 + 0.45 – 0.195 = 3.155 mm
○Exchange the shim for the 3.175 size shim.

Thank you for the quick reply. Wish I asked this earlier. Had to install/take off cams cause when I double checked the valve clearance it was too tight so I had to redo it again like 3 times.

This is what I was talking about. Couldn't find it.

getting the valves adjusted on my 250 as we speak. This is a great write up and was a huge help.

FYI for anyone doing this, I found the necessary shims for $1.99 at rocky mountain ATV.

(7.48mm outside diameter)

I really don't want to pay the $300-400 its going to cost to have my valves adjusted, coming up on 11,000 miles (Kawasaki dealer said that the 7500 miles recommended adjustment is a littler early for these bikes brand new). After seeing what it takes to do this, I am confident in saying that it is a little above my expertise. :( Will need the carbs synced as well probably. Guess I know what part of my tax return is going to.

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

Is this a correct shim kit for our bikes? It says it fits but i don't trust those things at all. $63 isn't too bad. Going to probably hit this up at the end of the season. Just getting things together since i have some extra money laying around.

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve-Shim-Kit/dp/B000WJWTM6/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Kawasaki%7C729&Model=EX250F%20Ninja%20250R%7C17451&Year=2008%7C2008&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=motorcycle

Is this a correct shim kit for our bikes? It says it fits but i don't trust those things at all. $63 isn't too bad. Going to probably hit this up at the end of the season. Just getting things together since i have some extra money laying around.

http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve-Shim-Kit/dp/B000WJWTM6/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Kawasaki%7C729&Model=EX250F%20Ninja%20250R%7C17451&Year=2008%7C2008&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=motorcycle

Yes. I have the same kit.

WORD OF CAUTION!!!

The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure.

The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."

WORD OF CAUTION!!!

The Camshaft Chain Tensioner shouldn't be removed until AFTER you turn time countershaft, and check valve clearance. Why in the world is this put down as Step 1 on this procedure? I was using the Service Manual and this thread to do the procedure and I might've caused damage to my chain because I followed this threads procedure.

The service manual states: "Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves."
Good catch.
Alex
This is probably important enough to ask for a mod edit. ;)

Hello, when I installed the exhaust cam with the crankshaft at 2 TDC, I noticed that the end of the cam shaft opposite the sprocket does not seat on to the engine head because the lobes on cylinder 1 push it up when the sprockets marks are lined correctly. It only goes down when I tighten the cam caps. Is this what you guys experienced when installing the exhaust cam shafts? I just want to make sure that I did not position the crankshaft or cams incorrectly. Also, is a carb adjustment necessary after the valve adjustment? I don't see any thing in the service manual about this. How do you do it?

if that cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, sounds about right

Interesting. I wish I had read this before completing the entire adjustment. I positioned the cam shafts correctly (lined up the sprocket markings, identified IN and EX cams, and made sure to position the crankshaft at TDC 2 with lobes on #2 cylinder facing away from each other), but I found it impossible to seat the exhaust cam end opposite the sprocket because when I lined up the IN and EX markings with the cylinder head, the lobes on the #1 cylinder pushed against the lifters and raised the cam shaft out of position. I had no idea how to fix this problem so I just tightened the cam caps and finished the job. I have put 40 miles on the bike and it runs good. The only thing that I can think of is that the mechanic who did the job before me put the lobes in the wrong position confusing me. I don't know. What do you think? Also, it seems unlikely that a camshaft could break in half, but i don't know.

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.


Interesting. I wish I had read this before completing the entire adjustment. I positioned the cam shafts correctly (lined up the sprocket markings, identified IN and EX cams, and made sure to position the crankshaft at TDC 2 with lobes on #2 cylinder facing away from each other), but I found it impossible to seat the exhaust cam end opposite the sprocket because when I lined up the IN and EX markings with the cylinder head, the lobes on the #1 cylinder pushed against the lifters and raised the cam shaft out of position. I had no idea how to fix this problem so I just tightened the cam caps and finished the job. I have put 40 miles on the bike and it runs good. The only thing that I can think of is that the mechanic who did the job before me put the lobes in the wrong position confusing me. I don't know. What do you think? Also, it seems unlikely that a camshaft could break in half, but i don't know.

Just an FYI to anyone relatively new to this, don't at all tighten down the camshaft cap bolts unless you know the shafts are in position and the caps are properly seated down. If the camshaft teeth are even one position off on the chain, causing them to be too tight, or if the shaft is otherwise held at an awkward angle and not properly seated, then tightening them down will not take much force before you hear a *CRACK* which may sound like the caps snapping into place, but upon further inspection you'll see the shaft cracked in half. I would post a nice picture of the results of this, but I dont have a place to host it right now. The fix will be about $250 for a shaft, and about a 1-2 week wait.

Also, did you follow the tightening sequence mandated in the service manual? If not, this may have caused the shafts to snap, not improper seating of the cam journals.

39142

If you zoom in you can see the 2T mark in this pic. Hope it helps someone

Whats the correct clearance for all valves.
I'm confused on the number of valves, because I see the numbers on each one. But ppl call the left valve the 1st.... i'm just confused. Can someone label the valves from this pic.

Oh and I have a 2008 engine on a 1998 frame, didn't believe it until I pulled the engine head off -_-

I also can't make it 10 minutes on the highway without the ninja just wanting to die. Each time the sparkplugs are black and the tips have yellow residue on them(powder).


Thank you for any support.

Starting from the camshaft sprocket and working back. The right side camshaft is the intake. The valves closest to that camshaft sprocket are cylinder #2 intake valves (2 of them per cyclinder) staying along that same camshaft but moving farther from the sprocket is cylinder #1 intake valves.

The other camshaft is the exhaust. (The one on the left in the pic) same deal. Cylinder #2 exhaust valves are closest to the camshaft sprocket. Cylinder #1 are farthest away. The red circles in that pic are the dowel pins or whatever they are called. Don't lose them when removing the valve cover or mess them up when re installing them.

Exhaust 0.22 ∼ 0.29 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0114 in.)
Intake: 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)

Hope this helps!