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csmith12 · October 26th, 2015, 03:16 PM

@Sirref @alex.s - here is your passing post. Sorry it took so long.

Racing the 250 has shown me many ways to pass when I can't get an easy pass on the straight.

Bottom line
First off, you have to come to terms with this; "if all racers never leave the race line, no one can pass anybody." Now that you know you have to leave the race line to make a pass, you can start to figure out HOW and more importantly WHEN.

Use the track to your advantage
I try to find a section of the track where I am slightly better than other racers. Maybe it's your favorite linked corners, the hardest braking zone, ect.. ect.. I choose these areas to make a pass first as I am more comfortable with taking greater chances. IE, I am more comfortable taking alternate lines. There are pros and cons to alternate lines; for example a pass that I make a lot is a wide, hot entry, quick flick, trail with a late apex and a really good pickup at the exit. Although this line leaves me somewhat open to an inside pass on entry, if there is no one on my six and I don't mess it up, I can normally drive out ahead or wheel to wheel with the rider in front of me if I am a faster racer. And speaking of the pickup, are you truly using it to your advantage? Most things considered, if you’re not pinned or nearly pinned before climbing back on the bike, there is more work to be done.

Also don’t forget that each circuit is different with its own character of bumps and surface feel. If I hear a fellow racer complain about the surface in a particular corner or section. Yep… that is where I am going to pass or pressure them.

Inputs, Controls and Bike Feedback
This is the meat and potatoes of this post and the hardest to get right. How fast can you really go? Well, you’re not going to go pass anyone that is faster than you so you’re going to have to figure out how to go faster. This is where bike feedback comes in. It all starts with you the rider; how much feedback can you WORK WITH. It don’t matter how much you can feel or don’t feel if you can’t work with it. At a high level, you’re not going fast enough unless the bike is mildly complaining about what you’re asking it to do. MILDLY is the keyword here! Subtle signs may show up like this; mild headshake on corner exit (very aggressive throttle roll), slight lifts of the rear wheel in the braking zone (very aggressive braking) or small pushes of the front/rear wheel (high corner speeds). There is a complex puzzle between, track & bike that must be put together that enables enough feedback to the rider to do what they need to do, but not TOO MUCH. Too much overloads with information and slows them down. So if you're riding around the track and the bike is not giving you ANY negative feedback, you CAN go faster.

Your bike is a missile right? How many keys does it take to launch a missile? Many movies depict that it takes 2 keys. The two keys used to get maximum drive through a corner to keep the rider in 2nd place firmly in 2nd place are getting the bike turned faster than them and beating them back to the throttle.

Steering is so important... that many riders may subconsciously adjust their turn in points based on their 80% skills at getting the bike turned to make their intended line. And since the turn in point affects so many other aspects of braking and cornering, if a rider wants to go faster than the rider in front of him or pass them. The answer is pretty simple, out steer them. The added quickness and accuracy in steering will allow for getting back to the throttle faster and many lines can be carved tighter. If a rider can shave a foot or two of track on a few corners over the course of a 10 lap race, that means the winning rider covered less distance, faster and with more confidence in their riding. Have you ever encountered a corner that only required a small hint of brake? Let me turn this upside down! What IF?!?!?! You could adjust your approach to the corner with the thinking that the rider could go faster through the corner by better throttle control and better steering? The rider could find the confidence to make the corner by slowing down or... create stability with good throttle control knowing they have the confidence to get the bike turned quickly and accurately.

Brakes... considering how much time one really spends on the brakes during a race, there are plenty of opportunities to late brake a leading rider on the inside a corner that you’re really comfortable with. This does a few things, but mainly puts you either; side by side, past the rider, in your passing lane (inside or outside) or may cause the lead rider adjust his line at the last minute. Basically, putting pressure on the lead ride may force an error where there wouldn’t be one. Just be a good sport when pressuring other riders and keep it clean.

Every time we talk about using the hook turn, it is about tightening the line mid-corner, you want to know how I use it the most? To enable a more aggressive throttle roll. We all know that a super greedy throttle roll will send the rider wide on their line. What if you balance your more aggressive throttle roll with a hook on exit. Yep... you can roll harder, it's not a lot but a little is often enough. Also, when guarding an inside pass, the rider can turn in earlier and closer to the inside, but this creates other problems. The first big problem is it creates a decreasing radius turn and you have to adjust line mid-corner, the hook turn is your friend here. The 2nd big problem is unless your throttle control is good as well as eager, you most likely will lose drive on exit. This again is where knowing that you have good hook turn in your bag of tricks to use to keep your throttle control strong.

At the moment of truth and you’re in the middle of the pass… don’t think, feel the moment! The time for thinking about it has passed, so do not concentrate on the pass but instead refocus on your exit and next actions, because any time spent dwelling on your current place is time spend on what already has happened. Replace all the negative rider feedback of instability; hot entry, heavy braking, close proximity to another rider, visual focus on the close rider, ect.. ect.. and replace those with helping the bike provide positive feedback by getting back to the throttle, loosen up on the bars (relax) and look for your next point.

Controlling distance
For linked corners… When the lead rider expands (runs wide mid-corner), you contract by tightening your line as much as you can, ie going slow in the slow parts. When the lead rider contracts (tightens their line), you expand, ie go fast in the fast parts (run wide via an eager throttle roll). For example, it’s better to exit a chicane faster than being faster in the middle of the chicane. Here is the deal, don't go faster for 100ft of track by sacrificing 1000ft of track. This is where a rider can take advantage of control inputs to decrease or create a gap. Let’s face it, most of the time when you realize you can roll harder, you’re already 2-3 seconds too late and kicking yourself saying “I could have went faster in that corner”. When you have realized that, you have arrived back to the future and already missed your chance to close a gap.

And even though you say you can't really get a good clean pass in the straight, it can still be used to your advantage for a solid draft into the braking zone but you may have to get on the brakes harder and trail into the corner after using the draft to slingshot around them at the last minute. And 100% for sure, don’t let the leading rider’s lines, markers and such leak into your riding. Look through them, ride through them, and definitely don’t visually linger on their every move. Air is a BIG deal, even a slight hesitation in the throttle will cost you time and drive when you’re fighting the wind. When not fully tucked, the forces of drag are horribly strong and get stronger the faster you go. When you can and it makes sense, stay in the draft bubble.

CONTROL THE FIELD! Sometimes you have to slow to keep the guy off your tail. What I mean is... if your main competition is running mid pack, creating a traffic jam just might keep them there. The more riders between you and them, the better. 99% of the time, at race pace, you don't go 3 and 4 wide in corners. This also works very well near the final laps of the race when everyone expects you go even faster. But be warned.... if another racer becomes the leader, this plan can go out the window real quick. Many see this as not very sportsman like, but that is racing for you… it’s not always pretty. As the race leader, you set the tone and pace of the race. Never forget you don't have to set the lap record to win, just be faster than 2nd. Winning a race at a pace less than your dry track day pace feels funny while racing, but the podium ceremony is just the same. Always, always, always, always... haul the mail the final lap, leave nothing on the table.

The mental game
All riders at some point in time follow one secret law… it’s the law of attraction. You cannot touch it or feel it but will know it when you are following the rule. Because you as the rider will become stagnant and complacent in your space. Riding for the sake of riding if you will. If you're riding with that frame of mind… why? What are you gaining? At first, this law creates drive and ambition to catch the racer in front of you but once the pass is complete does it go away? No, it transfers to the rider behind you, leaving you without that incentive. Once you understand that attraction is a two way street, you can then use that same attraction against them. Be unpredictable but SAFE, and NO LAST MINUTE DECISIONS, as they are normally bad. What I mean is to use the rider behind you to drive you in places where they caught you the lap before. When they show you a wheel or you hear their engine on your 6, that attraction should be a sign to your weakness in that area. If you haven’t a boost of skill to apply in that area, then a change in your riding will show through as unexpected. It could be as simple as a line change, a turn in point change or a braking marker change. Remember that change from lap to lap and do something different to keep the rider on your six guessing but… if YOU have to guess, don’t do it. That guesswork will turn into hesitation and a slower lap time.

You cannot be fast, if your chasing the mental self. Which happens so often when trying to ride “harder” to go faster. So as important as it is to have the physical abilities to color or ride outside the lines, the rider must not allow these sensations to attack and control the mind. Learn to quiet your mind and really concentrate, It’s not tense but ready, not thinking but not dreaming, do not be set but flexible. You have instinct on one side and self-control on the other. Your goal is to combine them together, to be to the extreme on either side will cost you time. Too much control, looks and feels mechanical and unnatural, too much dependence on instinct leaves you exposed to passes when the rider forgets about the block or line that would prevent a pass, sudden danger and even blind you to an opportunity to pass.

Leave your passive personality at home. If you see an opening, take it!!!! The passing windows are very small and the openings even smaller. DO NOT hesitate to take the opening either, put you and your bike EXACTLY where you want it to be.... only if there is room. Remember, this is NOT a track day, you try not to touch, but an inch is enough. There will come a time in your riding where I will tell you this, "to go really fast, you MUST take and have control over your aggression" and "to race, is to ride atop chaos, then bend it to your will." Finding the inspiration to go beyond what your current "fast", is just as much a factor as is fear... Because if you don't find it, someone else will, and you can take that to the bank.

October 26th, 2015, 03:16 PM	#156
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	@Sirref @alex.s - here is your passing post. Sorry it took so long. Racing the 250 has shown me many ways to pass when I can't get an easy pass on the straight. Bottom line First off, you have to come to terms with this; "if all racers never leave the race line, no one can pass anybody." Now that you know you have to leave the race line to make a pass, you can start to figure out HOW and more importantly WHEN. Use the track to your advantage I try to find a section of the track where I am slightly better than other racers. Maybe it's your favorite linked corners, the hardest braking zone, ect.. ect.. I choose these areas to make a pass first as I am more comfortable with taking greater chances. IE, I am more comfortable taking alternate lines. There are pros and cons to alternate lines; for example a pass that I make a lot is a wide, hot entry, quick flick, trail with a late apex and a really good pickup at the exit. Although this line leaves me somewhat open to an inside pass on entry, if there is no one on my six and I don't mess it up, I can normally drive out ahead or wheel to wheel with the rider in front of me if I am a faster racer. And speaking of the pickup, are you truly using it to your advantage? Most things considered, if you’re not pinned or nearly pinned before climbing back on the bike, there is more work to be done. Also don’t forget that each circuit is different with its own character of bumps and surface feel. If I hear a fellow racer complain about the surface in a particular corner or section. Yep… that is where I am going to pass or pressure them. Inputs, Controls and Bike Feedback This is the meat and potatoes of this post and the hardest to get right. How fast can you really go? Well, you’re not going to go pass anyone that is faster than you so you’re going to have to figure out how to go faster. This is where bike feedback comes in. It all starts with you the rider; how much feedback can you WORK WITH. It don’t matter how much you can feel or don’t feel if you can’t work with it. At a high level, you’re not going fast enough unless the bike is mildly complaining about what you’re asking it to do. MILDLY is the keyword here! Subtle signs may show up like this; mild headshake on corner exit (very aggressive throttle roll), slight lifts of the rear wheel in the braking zone (very aggressive braking) or small pushes of the front/rear wheel (high corner speeds). There is a complex puzzle between, track & bike that must be put together that enables enough feedback to the rider to do what they need to do, but not TOO MUCH. Too much overloads with information and slows them down. So if you're riding around the track and the bike is not giving you ANY negative feedback, you CAN go faster. Your bike is a missile right? How many keys does it take to launch a missile? Many movies depict that it takes 2 keys. The two keys used to get maximum drive through a corner to keep the rider in 2nd place firmly in 2nd place are getting the bike turned faster than them and beating them back to the throttle. Steering is so important... that many riders may subconsciously adjust their turn in points based on their 80% skills at getting the bike turned to make their intended line. And since the turn in point affects so many other aspects of braking and cornering, if a rider wants to go faster than the rider in front of him or pass them. The answer is pretty simple, out steer them. The added quickness and accuracy in steering will allow for getting back to the throttle faster and many lines can be carved tighter. If a rider can shave a foot or two of track on a few corners over the course of a 10 lap race, that means the winning rider covered less distance, faster and with more confidence in their riding. Have you ever encountered a corner that only required a small hint of brake? Let me turn this upside down! What IF?!?!?! You could adjust your approach to the corner with the thinking that the rider could go faster through the corner by better throttle control and better steering? The rider could find the confidence to make the corner by slowing down or... create stability with good throttle control knowing they have the confidence to get the bike turned quickly and accurately. Brakes... considering how much time one really spends on the brakes during a race, there are plenty of opportunities to late brake a leading rider on the inside a corner that you’re really comfortable with. This does a few things, but mainly puts you either; side by side, past the rider, in your passing lane (inside or outside) or may cause the lead rider adjust his line at the last minute. Basically, putting pressure on the lead ride may force an error where there wouldn’t be one. Just be a good sport when pressuring other riders and keep it clean. Every time we talk about using the hook turn, it is about tightening the line mid-corner, you want to know how I use it the most? To enable a more aggressive throttle roll. We all know that a super greedy throttle roll will send the rider wide on their line. What if you balance your more aggressive throttle roll with a hook on exit. Yep... you can roll harder, it's not a lot but a little is often enough. Also, when guarding an inside pass, the rider can turn in earlier and closer to the inside, but this creates other problems. The first big problem is it creates a decreasing radius turn and you have to adjust line mid-corner, the hook turn is your friend here. The 2nd big problem is unless your throttle control is good as well as eager, you most likely will lose drive on exit. This again is where knowing that you have good hook turn in your bag of tricks to use to keep your throttle control strong. At the moment of truth and you’re in the middle of the pass… don’t think, feel the moment! The time for thinking about it has passed, so do not concentrate on the pass but instead refocus on your exit and next actions, because any time spent dwelling on your current place is time spend on what already has happened. Replace all the negative rider feedback of instability; hot entry, heavy braking, close proximity to another rider, visual focus on the close rider, ect.. ect.. and replace those with helping the bike provide positive feedback by getting back to the throttle, loosen up on the bars (relax) and look for your next point. Controlling distance For linked corners… When the lead rider expands (runs wide mid-corner), you contract by tightening your line as much as you can, ie going slow in the slow parts. When the lead rider contracts (tightens their line), you expand, ie go fast in the fast parts (run wide via an eager throttle roll). For example, it’s better to exit a chicane faster than being faster in the middle of the chicane. Here is the deal, don't go faster for 100ft of track by sacrificing 1000ft of track. This is where a rider can take advantage of control inputs to decrease or create a gap. Let’s face it, most of the time when you realize you can roll harder, you’re already 2-3 seconds too late and kicking yourself saying “I could have went faster in that corner”. When you have realized that, you have arrived back to the future and already missed your chance to close a gap. And even though you say you can't really get a good clean pass in the straight, it can still be used to your advantage for a solid draft into the braking zone but you may have to get on the brakes harder and trail into the corner after using the draft to slingshot around them at the last minute. And 100% for sure, don’t let the leading rider’s lines, markers and such leak into your riding. Look through them, ride through them, and definitely don’t visually linger on their every move. Air is a BIG deal, even a slight hesitation in the throttle will cost you time and drive when you’re fighting the wind. When not fully tucked, the forces of drag are horribly strong and get stronger the faster you go. When you can and it makes sense, stay in the draft bubble. CONTROL THE FIELD! Sometimes you have to slow to keep the guy off your tail. What I mean is... if your main competition is running mid pack, creating a traffic jam just might keep them there. The more riders between you and them, the better. 99% of the time, at race pace, you don't go 3 and 4 wide in corners. This also works very well near the final laps of the race when everyone expects you go even faster. But be warned.... if another racer becomes the leader, this plan can go out the window real quick. Many see this as not very sportsman like, but that is racing for you… it’s not always pretty. As the race leader, you set the tone and pace of the race. Never forget you don't have to set the lap record to win, just be faster than 2nd. Winning a race at a pace less than your dry track day pace feels funny while racing, but the podium ceremony is just the same. Always, always, always, always... haul the mail the final lap, leave nothing on the table. The mental game All riders at some point in time follow one secret law… it’s the law of attraction. You cannot touch it or feel it but will know it when you are following the rule. Because you as the rider will become stagnant and complacent in your space. Riding for the sake of riding if you will. If you're riding with that frame of mind… why? What are you gaining? At first, this law creates drive and ambition to catch the racer in front of you but once the pass is complete does it go away? No, it transfers to the rider behind you, leaving you without that incentive. Once you understand that attraction is a two way street, you can then use that same attraction against them. Be unpredictable but SAFE, and NO LAST MINUTE DECISIONS, as they are normally bad. What I mean is to use the rider behind you to drive you in places where they caught you the lap before. When they show you a wheel or you hear their engine on your 6, that attraction should be a sign to your weakness in that area. If you haven’t a boost of skill to apply in that area, then a change in your riding will show through as unexpected. It could be as simple as a line change, a turn in point change or a braking marker change. Remember that change from lap to lap and do something different to keep the rider on your six guessing but… if YOU have to guess, don’t do it. That guesswork will turn into hesitation and a slower lap time. You cannot be fast, if your chasing the mental self. Which happens so often when trying to ride “harder” to go faster. So as important as it is to have the physical abilities to color or ride outside the lines, the rider must not allow these sensations to attack and control the mind. Learn to quiet your mind and really concentrate, It’s not tense but ready, not thinking but not dreaming, do not be set but flexible. You have instinct on one side and self-control on the other. Your goal is to combine them together, to be to the extreme on either side will cost you time. Too much control, looks and feels mechanical and unnatural, too much dependence on instinct leaves you exposed to passes when the rider forgets about the block or line that would prevent a pass, sudden danger and even blind you to an opportunity to pass. Leave your passive personality at home. If you see an opening, take it!!!! The passing windows are very small and the openings even smaller. DO NOT hesitate to take the opening either, put you and your bike EXACTLY where you want it to be.... only if there is room. Remember, this is NOT a track day, you try not to touch, but an inch is enough. There will come a time in your riding where I will tell you this, "to go really fast, you MUST take and have control over your aggression" and "to race, is to ride atop chaos, then bend it to your will." Finding the inspiration to go beyond what your current "fast", is just as much a factor as is fear... Because if you don't find it, someone else will, and you can take that to the bank. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School Last futzed with by csmith12; October 26th, 2015 at 08:57 PM.
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