Quote:
Originally Posted by sardilevi
Hey,
So I bought this 2010 Ninja 250R about 2 weeks ago and finally had time to fix it up..Backstory on the bike, it was standing for about 6 months, but the owner said it was started up at least once a week.
After getting it to my place, I could start it up with the battery that was in it for 6 months. It was idling great, was reacting to the choke, but whenever I gave it gas it shut off. My thoughts were a dirty carb, so I pulled it and cleaned it, a fair amount of junk came out. After putting it back in, the bike has been struggling to idle, no matter the position of the choke or the idle adjuster screw, had to give it a little gas otherwise it would've shut off. It also had a hard time getting up the revs.
Skip forward a couple of days, and 2 more carb cleaning sessions - just to be sure -, I drained the old gas, switched out the air filter, new spark plugs, new oil, and oil filter.
I could take it for a small ride of about 5 minutes until the engine fully warmed up, then kept giving me the same issues as before, no matter how much throttle, idle adjusting or choke I give it, it does nothing. Poorly idles under 1000RPM, and the throttle has to be pulled in slightly, otherwise it shuts off.
Made sure there are no vacuum leaks by the head and by the airbox connections. Some previous owner has definitely messed with the carb before, there were vac hose deletes, I routed it all back to stock.
I read a couple similar stories and watched videos, but they were not really the same issue I am having. I am pretty lost at this point to what the issue could be, if anyone with more knowledge could help me out on this one I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you
I am attaching a video and an image to what the issue is, and what the current carb routing is..Disregard the CA model.
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get in them carbs and verify all tuning components are present, stock, correct parts from Uncle Kawasaki, nothing bastardized, modded, deleted, wrecked, etc etc. No telling what a PO may have done, not done. That includes the decel valve. Start with pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns from lightly seated.
Verify the decel related vac hoses *between* the cabs are tight both on the carb bodies and top of the decel valve. The little booger hose under the decel valve as well.
Also check petcock function (screens present and clear? clogged?)
Also the tank cap vent system should be confirmed clear (flapper valves)
All that should keep you busy for a bit.
Todays ethanol fuels, coupled with bike inactivity, wreaks havoc. Add unknown PO tweaks...all bets are off.