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Old April 24th, 2015, 03:40 PM   #1
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Custom Carb Service

I'm pleased to announce a formal, refined carb service program for our members. I wish to expand and offer varying levels of AFFORDABLE custom carb work you can TRUST... exclusively for the EX community, though certainly not limited to EX carbs. We all know how astronomical dealer prices are these days, not even mentioning the frustrating experiences dealing with them.

My basic carb REFURB SERVICE entails: full disassembly, split, pilot screw cap drilling, sodablasting, treat bodies in heated ultrasonic machine, verify passageways and circuits (pilot, main and choke) are clear , ALL new orings/ rail seals, float valves. Fuel levels setup, throttle plate synch, fully bench checked, ALL tested...not just "carb cleaning" but an actual TRUE REFURB .

also for you DIY folks...selling carb kits (including orings, float valves and stainless buttonhead screws) as a complete set to service 250 carbs available NOW and shipping daily.

Unfortunately I'm forced to limit this to US/mainland transactions at this time.

*i have dealer experience (10 years at a Yamaha/BMW dealership as a youngster in the 70's) where I became a bit familiar with carbs

Some examples of my work (though not necessarily 250)

Thanks for looking, reading. Please PM any questions/concerns/inquiries. Will be answered quickly.

If you are not inclined to do the carbs up correctly in *the first attempt*, lack equipment, tools or energy....please give me a try. Affordable, honest, quick service.

gpzpaul1.jpg 250#2.jpg reds1.jpg redcarb1.jpg floats.jpg

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Old April 24th, 2015, 03:47 PM   #2
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Awesome. That looks great.
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Old April 24th, 2015, 04:30 PM   #3
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ty.

and carb kit containing 2 bowl orings, 2 pilot screw orings, 2 float valves and 8 stainless buttonhead screws (for bowl and diaphragm covers)

enough to service 1 carb set (both carbs)

$28 shipped to you in CONUS. Paypal accepted, PM for further info.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 09:58 AM   #4
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performed basic service for a member here

before/after pic, as clean inside as out
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Old June 21st, 2015, 11:33 AM   #5
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performed basic service for a member here

before/after pic, as clean inside as out
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Old June 21st, 2015, 06:06 PM   #6
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@ducatiman, got some before/after pictures of insides? Or any other custom work?

BTW love the stainless steel button head.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 06:23 PM   #7
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these shockers for Ex500, i'll add some "guts" photo's tomorrow.
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 05:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
ty.

and carb kit containing 2 bowl orings, 2 pilot screw orings, 2 float valves and 8 stainless buttonhead screws (for bowl and diaphragm covers)

enough to service 1 carb set (both carbs)

$28 shipped to you in CONUS. Paypal accepted, PM for further info.
Where does the little oring go on the carb? I don't remember seeing that on my 2010 carbs? Or maybe I did and can't remember.
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 05:41 PM   #9
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the tiny little boogers are for the pilot adjust screws, frequently flatten or distort, should be automatically replaced during a comprehensive carb clean or refurb

the pilot screws are capped from the factory....remove the caps and your pilots screws are now able to be adjusted (or removed to clean the orifice during carb service). Perhaps you left yours capped?
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 05:43 PM   #10
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Little tiny o-ring goes on the idle mix screw.

There's also a little tiny washer that goes there, which I don't see. I also don't see new mix screws or EPA caps (not that anyone actually wants the EPA caps, but I'm only pointing out differences with what I've used). The big O-rings also aren't preshaped to mate up with the carb bowls. That rebuild kit, not to bash, is not complete. IMHO, you're better to get a rebuild kit on Amazon and get screws at your local hardware store.

The carbs in this thread are beautiful though. What kind of paint are you using? or is it powder coat?
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 05:57 PM   #11
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the pilot screw tips can easily be cleaned, the washers safely reused, only there to protect the oring from damage by the spring.

Who replaces the EPA caps? not needed at all

A few drops of crazy glue in the corners of the bowl lands hold the bowl rings in for assembly, compression and heat cycles "form" them. So easy even a caveman....

The stainless buttonhead screws are a matter of long term convenience.

I use all these components in all my carb services and refurbs, they work.

And I believe my *shipped* price is quite competitive.
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 06:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
the tiny little boogers are for the pilot adjust screws, frequently flatten or distort, should be automatically replaced during a comprehensive carb clean or refurb

the pilot screws are capped from the factory....remove the caps and your pilots screws are now able to be adjusted (or removed to clean the orifice during carb service). Perhaps you left yours capped?
Yeah mine are still capped, that's why I didn't notice it.
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 06:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
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the pilot screw tips can easily be cleaned, the washers safely reused, only there to protect the oring from damage by the spring.
The pilot screw tips get damaged and bent from use. They should be replaced, they're a wear item.

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Who replaces the EPA caps? not needed at all
Clearly didn't read fully.

Quote:
(not that anyone actually wants the EPA caps, but I'm only pointing out differences with what I've used)
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Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
A few drops of crazy glue in the corners of the bowl lands hold them in for assembly, compression and heat cycles "form" them. So easy even a caveman....
Caveman, huh? now now, play nice.

Also crazy glue in bowls? really? Come on, now. That breaks down over time in gasoline and will be a shot on goal for plugging your carbs again. Not super likely, but a shot on goal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
The stainless buttonhead screws are a matter of long term convenience.
Agreed, I have mine set up the same way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
I use all these components in all my carb services and refurbs, they work.
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And I believe my price is quite competitive.
I'll refrain from posting other options in this thread, as that would be in poor taste; but I disagree and I'll leave it at that.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 03:56 AM   #14
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please...just one more....school me..

"The pilot screw tips get damaged and bent from use"

please explain how
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Old June 24th, 2015, 11:04 AM   #15
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So this is a rebuilding service? and port and polish? would you be able to get more power out of it without hurting gas mileage? Or is this strictly reliability mod?

How much do you charge for this on the 08-12 ninja 250r's?
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Old June 24th, 2015, 01:44 PM   #16
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^ g and g -

cleaning and refurb service, I'll send a PM with further info.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 03:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
please...just one more....school me..

"The pilot screw tips get damaged and bent from use"

please explain how
You ever compare an old one to a new one? Old one isn't perfect anymore. New one is. I couldn't tell you how it happens because I don't know, but it did in both of mine. The tip was very slightly deformed on the old screws.

I'm not here to bicker with you, just giving some open and honest feedback on the rebuild kit in places it can be improved to be very competitive. I really like the painting (or is is powder coat?) for aesthetics. I thought about blasting and painting mine, but it wasn't worth the effort.

Sorry, I'll leave you alone here.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 06:40 PM   #18
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I'll let my work speak for itself (though these are EX500 carbs)
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Old June 25th, 2015, 06:18 AM   #19
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would the ex500 carbs fit a 250? and provide more airflow for more power perhaps?
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Old June 26th, 2015, 01:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
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would the ex500 carbs fit a 250? and provide more airflow for more power perhaps?
Not worth it, and probably not.

As you can see in the photos the EX carburetors are set further apart than the Ninjette, and that's just the start of the issues.

If your going to go thru all those issues, might as well go with a pair of flat side carburetors.

Stick with the OEM Ninjette, and then have the refurbished, and tuned for best performance. @ducatiman can set you up.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 10:38 AM   #21
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some spare time to further explore pilot screw "issue" which arose

Pic 1...these are all used (pre-owned? ) from my EX500 salvage spares. The 250 screws are identical (obviously, not the ones on the right)
Witness I have cleaned them all.

I see no evidence of "normal wear"/ bending, deformities, nor any other compelling evidence to prohibit reuse, nor for discarding.

Pic 2...In this instance the tip (only) of this screw was corroded/frozen solid inside a pilot drilling, tip broke off upon removal...took a bit o' doing to carefully remove without causing peripheral damage...working from *inside* the venturi (notice the tip is twisted from physical force of removal)
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Old July 8th, 2015, 03:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I see no evidence of "normal wear"/ bending, deformities, nor any other compelling evidence to prohibit reuse, nor for discarding.
Now I may be crazy, but I do see differences here. Again, please take no disrespect here, because that's not what I'm intending.

Circled in red: Looks perfect.
Circled in blue: Looks slightly rounded, and slightly off axis.

Maybe this is just the picture quality, but that's what I see, and that's exactly what mine looked like upon rebuild when I removed the old one. The end was slightly rounded compared to the new screws and slightly bent. Can also tell you that my old screws and new screws required different number of turns out, I account this to the wear, as they were identical part numbers.

Again, the difference I see here may be a function of your camera quality. My wear issue may have been abnormal, or I may just be picky and imaging things. All are possible. But I'm positive it's not from user error during removal.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 03:56 PM   #23
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If I may, could also be manufacturer's as well, let's not forget they make millions of these a day, I'm sure the tolerances are not that precise, maybe??
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Old July 8th, 2015, 03:56 PM   #24
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^^ also a distinct possibility.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:21 PM   #25
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I'll submit screws are included in commercial carb kits specifically to eliminate the need for metering tip cleaning...for those not aware, not able or not willing to perform clearing the carbon off the tip. I cleaned all these in about 5 minutes today, routinely do so in every refurb I do.

If tip is visibly bent ....*something*...a physical force ...has caused it, certainly not "normal wear".

I'll further submit....i'd reuse any of these screws as spares where needed and I have yet to see or hear clear, realistic evidence to negate that.

Carbs requiring a different number of turns to hit the sweet spot in each cylinder is nothing unusual at all, many other factors combine to determine.

Tomorrow, I'll post about the dreaded "super glue in the bowls".

My kits are effective, reliable, affordable, competitive.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:46 PM   #26
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I must admit the super glue trick does come in handy, and is an age old trick, just a drop in a few spots to hold the O-ring in place while assembly, helps a bunch.

Similarly the Hi-tack for gaskets
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:54 PM   #27
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i want to clear the painted picture of giant globs of superglue in the bowls migrating into the system.

Complete distortion and misconception.

Tomorrow.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 08:15 AM   #28
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Unformed bowl oring install....all of a 2 minute procedure. Metric sized nitrile orings used in my kits, perfectly sized, seal fine, will offer a long service life. PS common swelling is not an issue....no complaints since switching to these about a year ago.

photo 1 shows a few tiny drops of cyano in the lands (NOT slopped in the bowls), press for a few seconds, work all way around, you're done

TIA for containing the compulsion to criticize the discolored donor bowl innards, these are junk, just using for the photo op, will never see actual service.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 01:09 PM   #29
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As it saying goes " a dab will do ya' "
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Old July 9th, 2015, 01:46 PM   #30
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^ as opposed to "a big glob'll getcha"
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Old July 9th, 2015, 02:17 PM   #31
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Another old school tip, like putting the diaphragms in the freezer overnight.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 04:05 PM   #32
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Scott,
Why would you put your diaphragms in the freezer?

namelessducatiman,
I can see you're meticulous and experienced, but no. Sorry, just no. We'll agree to disagree; super glue doesn't belong in carbs. Also disagree on the screws still but hey. I am still interested in picking your brain. For the 1/4" vacuum lines, what do you use for clamps if they come in damaged or otherwise unuseable? The OE clamps or something else?
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Old July 9th, 2015, 05:41 PM   #33
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at this point, I'd urge you to visit the NASA website and inquire about clamps, clearly I haven't been at this long enough to recommend anything worthy enough to meet your standards.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 07:15 PM   #34
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...well then.

I urge you to look at vendors who have been successful here, such as Area P. They've been successful here because of a friendly, patient attitude, in addition to a great product. When you work with them, you know you're going to get service with a smile. Not sarcasm and superiority complex.

Frankly, I don't care about how much experience you have in a dealership setting. Attitude speaks just as loudly as your product.
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Old July 9th, 2015, 07:39 PM   #35
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your interpretation of "working with someone" greatly differs from mine
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Old July 9th, 2015, 09:08 PM   #36
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Okay then............ Well.......

As far as what I do with the diaphragm freezer trick goes is sometimes during reassembling the diaphragm just refuses to cooperate, they sometimes won't sit in the groove, too pliable etc.... So I pop them into the freezer overnight, and this solves the problem, for me anyway. I have never had any issues with pinched diaphragm etc, and possibly damaging one, damn things are expensive.... And I recommend this trick for the beginner carburetor person.


I have also used the crazy glue trick as well on the bowl non OEM round O-rings, just a few single dots in the corner grooves, as it's not actually not inside the bowl, and I don't have to fight with the Damn things, make my life easier. Yes you can buy the OEM pre-formed bowl O-rings then you have no need for the glue.

This is just another use for crazy glue, Damn stuff has a million uses, now a million and one.


P.S. I'm not taking side I'm just sharing my own knowledge, and practices, do whatever you wish. What works for me, may, or may not work for you.
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Old August 9th, 2015, 11:48 AM   #37
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serviced/refurbed these for a member today...i doubt he'll recognize these as his carbs

all circuits clear, wet tested...they'll be fine runners
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Old August 10th, 2015, 05:22 AM   #38
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my carbs

You're right, they look nothing like what I sent in. The bike was a "barn find." A friend of mine at church had this bike sitting for 4 years without touching it until he rolled it out for me to buy on Wednesday. Got it home and tried to drain the tank via the petcock but it was gummed up in there. I pulled the petcock apart and cleaned it out and put in some fresh gas. Jumped it off and was able to get it to run, albeit very poorly (it would make it down my driveway but not back up, it's very steep). Sent my carbs off the next day and am expecting them (pictured above) back tomorrow or Wednesday. Should have the bike back to rideable as soon as I get them in. Now street legal is something else, I am waiting on the slow boat from China with my front turn signals. I'll update again with results when I get the carbs in.

Thank you Gordon for the quick, professional service!
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Old August 10th, 2015, 06:42 AM   #39
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sweet jesus that is some nice work.

lots of time and specialized tools involved to do something like this yourself.
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Old August 10th, 2015, 06:45 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjunk View Post
sweet jesus that is some nice work.

lots of time and specialized tools involved to do something like this yourself.
Don't forget knowledge and experience
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