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Old March 25th, 2014, 09:31 PM   #1
Kscreations08
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Talking First Ride! Still Alive! Need advice tho.

I did it guys. Earlier today I got the new turn signals from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and new speed rivets for the inner front fairing (mofo's to get in btw)

Review on the Turn signals. They are pretty basic. Very small but impressively bright for the size. I have pictures that I will upload soon. Just can't do it from work lol.

Anyways, onto the meat and potatoes. So after installing all the new parts, I started her up. First impression is that I am either really bad with a clutch or there are some problems here. At 4000rpm, I would slowly (and I mean creepingly) release the clutch. It would start to engage and then just die. I let the bike warm up first of course and after about 10 minutes of shenanigens, I got her on the street and cruising. My goal is to get to an emply parking lot and practice but the closest one wasn't empty lol so I circled a couple blocks and headed home before dark. During the couple of blocks, it did stall once but I know that was my fault.

So, I got the bike home, parked it, and proceeded to get ready for work. Now, here I sit with Wendy's french fries in my belly and a helmet next to me. That's right. I rode the bike to work! lol Just found out the weather report is calling for flurries over the night, which may make the ride home interesting. Knew I should have waited but I was just too damn excited.

Lesson Learned here: Check the weather before you ride!

Question for the specialists here: Going down the road in 3rd gear, about 40 mph, pull in the clutch to down shift, slight brake to drop speed (maybe 30) and take a right yield. I tried blipping the throttle to smooth out the shift to 2nd as I pulled into the turn and the bike shut off on me before I could release the clutch. Why would more gas with the clutch on cause it to stall? I know I had the clutch fully engaged when it shut off. Any ideas here? Rider error?
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Old March 25th, 2014, 09:38 PM   #2
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Stalling in that situation is definitely not normal, unfortunately I can't think of anything in particular that would cause that situation. As for the stalling from a start it was fairly chilly today (got a few inches of snow where I am) so you may have just needed to warm the bike up a little bit longer. Considering that that problem didn't persist I'd put it up to a cold bike, 250s hate cold weather. They'll run in it but they won't like it, at least not until they warm up.
I'll edit if I can think of anything that would cause the stalling while downshifting w/blip and clutch engaged.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 02:57 AM   #3
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Sorry you are having problems. Could you tell us a little about your bike?

Fuel level?
Stock exhaust?
Rejetted Carbs?
How warm was the bike when it stalled?
Was the choke fully off/part on?
What RPM does your bike idel at 1200-1500 is normal
Did the bike sit a long time before you got it?
Does your bike start normal/easy?
How is your petcock set run/prime?

The answers to the above questions will help the guys on this site figure out why your bike is stalling. The good news is that once this problem is resolved your bike will run better than it does now. I am fairly certain that this problem is just a minor issue and can quickly and cheaply be repaired and you will have a long happy summer of riding in front of you
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Old March 26th, 2014, 03:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kscreations08 View Post
.............Question for the specialists here: Going down the road in 3rd gear, about 40 mph, pull in the clutch to down shift, slight brake to drop speed (maybe 30) and take a right yield. I tried blipping the throttle to smooth out the shift to 2nd as I pulled into the turn and the bike shut off on me before I could release the clutch. Why would more gas with the clutch on cause it to stall? I know I had the clutch fully engaged when it shut off. Any ideas here? Rider error?
An engine that stalls on you while riding is very dangerous.
You could have fallen as you were turning and if releasing the clutch quickly as normally for downshifting, the rear tire could have skid.

Consider increasing the rpm's at idle as high as possible (~1800), while you find the cause; then reset to normal.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 04:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
An engine that stalls on you while riding is very dangerous.
My first thought too ... please don't take the engine stalling lightly, it IS extremely dangerous.

With that ... my first thought comes to check the kick stand switch. 250's have a kill switch on the kick (yes, I've done it before). Even if the stand is up, it might still be a bit flaky on you. I wouldn't replace it, but at least make sure it's in good condition, and making good contact.

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Old March 26th, 2014, 04:25 AM   #6
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1) Engine dying with the clutch pulled is odd. You might have your idle screw (the knurled knob poking out of the left side of the bike) turned out too far. At what RPM does your bike idle when warm? Look for the simplest answers first.

2) Did you take the MSF course? If not why not? The first exercise they do has you learn the clutch friction zone. It's easy to replicate and very effective. Find a parking lot with a long straight run. From a standing start, let the clutch out JUST until the bike starts to move... not fast enough to actually ride. Then pull it in and stop. Repeat. Keep doing this as you walk the bike in a straight line across the lot. The objective is to learn where the friction zone is without the added complication of having to release the clutch fully and start riding.

3) Your downshifting technique is not correct. You should not pull in the clutch, wait, brake, wait, blip and shift as you turn. You should downshift promptly... the bike can be in gear as you brake and should be in gear before you initiate your turn. Like this:
  • At 40, start braking.
  • As you drop through 30 and as you approach the turn, blip and downshift. Should only take a second. You can probably get off the brakes at this point.
  • Look through the corner towards your exit, tip in and roll the throttle on smoothly and continuously throughout the remainder of the turn.

The objective is to use the clutch as briefly as you can... i.e., have it disengaged for as short a time as possible.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 08:37 AM   #7
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Is the bike warmed up when it stalls? I could see that happening if the bikes still cold and the choke is off. Practice clutch control and finding the friction zone until it's muscle memory.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 08:51 AM   #8
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Do not think about bleeping on down shifts for a few months. You have enough to think about.

When does MSF start back up for the sesson? You should be able to register now.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 09:08 AM   #9
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With your obvious lack of skill with the clutch and posibly bike in general(sorry) you shouldn't be trying to blip the throttle. Trying to blip the throttle at your current learning stage is probably pulling for focus away from the basics smoothly operating the clutch and causing a large delay in the time you have the clutch pulled in.

If you pull the clutch in while riding and the bike stalls at any speed then your idle is ether to low or you have an air leak in your carbs.

Please stay away from traffic because you don't seem to know what your doing just yet(give it time) and if you do something unexpected around cars they are going to run you over. Hell cars have a hard enough time with us when we ride predictably, they don't need any more help running us over.

Its a simple concept that gets overlooked but controlling your motorcycle should be third on your list of things your focusing on. First is where are you going second is where is everyone else going, and a distant third is controlling your bike. If you can't control your bike without thinking about what to do then you can't focus on what all the other retards are going to do around you.

More details and a better description of your bike and problem along with any other scenarios where it happening and we'll be happy to give you more support.

Good luck.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 03:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rojoracing53 View Post
..........
Its a simple concept that gets overlooked but controlling your motorcycle should be third on your list of things your focusing on. First is where are you going second is where is everyone else going, and a distant third is controlling your bike. If you can't control your bike without thinking about what to do then you can't focus on what all the other retards are going to do around you............
Note to @Kscreations08 (the OP):

Frame those wise words, hang the frame next to your bike and read them each morning !!!

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Old March 26th, 2014, 08:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati999 View Post
Sorry you are having problems. Could you tell us a little about your bike?

Fuel level?
Stock exhaust?
Rejetted Carbs?
How warm was the bike when it stalled?
Was the choke fully off/part on?
What RPM does your bike idel at 1200-1500 is normal
Did the bike sit a long time before you got it?
Does your bike start normal/easy?
How is your petcock set run/prime?

The answers to the above questions will help the guys on this site figure out why your bike is stalling. The good news is that once this problem is resolved your bike will run better than it does now. I am fairly certain that this problem is just a minor issue and can quickly and cheaply be repaired and you will have a long happy summer of riding in front of you
Fuel was about 3/4 of a tank
stock exhaust with no rejetting. The entire bike is stock
It was cold outside, about 30. The bike warmed up for about 10 minutes and rode fine for 3 miles before the stall happened. Choke was fully off because I read that riding with the choke on is bad (?)
Bike starts normal
Petcock is set run but it is leaky, learned this last time I had the tank off.
When it was first bought in 2009, it was ridden all the time. By 2012, it started sitting more than anything. Besides winter months though, its been run every year. Has almost 13k miles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
An engine that stalls on you while riding is very dangerous.
You could have fallen as you were turning and if releasing the clutch quickly as normally for downshifting, the rear tire could have skid.

Consider increasing the rpm's at idle as high as possible (~1800), while you find the cause; then reset to normal.
You should've seen my face when that rear tire grabbed. Immediate reaction was to squeeze the clutch back in and let it roll. I almost needed to clean the seat after. And it happened right before a turn

Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
1) Engine dying with the clutch pulled is odd. You might have your idle screw (the knurled knob poking out of the left side of the bike) turned out too far. At what RPM does your bike idle when warm? Look for the simplest answers first.

2) Did you take the MSF course? If not why not? The first exercise they do has you learn the clutch friction zone. It's easy to replicate and very effective. Find a parking lot with a long straight run. From a standing start, let the clutch out JUST until the bike starts to move... not fast enough to actually ride. Then pull it in and stop. Repeat. Keep doing this as you walk the bike in a straight line across the lot. The objective is to learn where the friction zone is without the added complication of having to release the clutch fully and start riding.

3) Your downshifting technique is not correct. You should not pull in the clutch, wait, brake, wait, blip and shift as you turn. You should downshift promptly... the bike can be in gear as you brake and should be in gear before you initiate your turn. Like this:
  • At 40, start braking.
  • As you drop through 30 and as you approach the turn, blip and downshift. Should only take a second. You can probably get off the brakes at this point.
  • Look through the corner towards your exit, tip in and roll the throttle on smoothly and continuously throughout the remainder of the turn.

The objective is to use the clutch as briefly as you can... i.e., have it disengaged for as short a time as possible.
I am going to get off the street and practice. I have a local church parking lot that is almost always empty, and its only 3 blocks worth of alleys away so I'm going to start spending some time there.
The MSF course is one I am going to do. It doesn't start until late April though...






I want everyone here to know that I really appreciate the help. I saw a couple of apologies when you guys warned me to get off the street or commented on my lack of experience. Please, be brutal if you need to. I'd rather get yelled at by you guys versus squished by a wild Prius lol I know that I don't know anything. That's why I'm here. To learn from you wise mofos
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Old March 26th, 2014, 10:02 PM   #12
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Thou who can handle constructive criticism(without whining like a little bitch)shall learn much.

I was just skimming through but when the bike stalled did you say it freaked you out because the rear wheel locked up just because the motor dies or is turned off the rear wheel shouldn't lock up, at the most it'll feel like your lightly applying the rear brake.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 10:30 PM   #13
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Not locked, just grabbed. But it was enough of a grab to startle because I didn't hit anything that would make the bike brake and it was within a split second of the bike shutting down because I was in the process of releasing the clutch. It was a "What the Hell?" kind of startle lol
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Old March 26th, 2014, 10:46 PM   #14
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Its weird i was riding today and i let the ninja warm up but it wAs being lethargic till i got rr going. It was super cold last night but were getting in the 50's and 60's next few days. Maybe your carb are gummed? Pilot is all gummed? I dont know theres many more experienced people here with tons of info.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 10:54 PM   #15
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Would carbs being gummed up cause it to stall midride? I'm thinking that cleaning them will be easy enough with the DIYs here that it would be worth trying
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Old March 26th, 2014, 11:17 PM   #16
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Would carbs being gummed up cause it to stall midride? I'm thinking that cleaning them will be easy enough with the DIYs here that it would be worth trying
Maybe im not realy sure

But i can suggest something that probably wouldnt hurt.

When i frst bought my bike in January the guy didnt properly winterize the bike and the carbs would of probably needed cleaned.

As suggested by a local mechanic I went and bought berrymans b12 fuel treatment and put the dosage in my tank. Ran her for about 10 minutes. Then rode her the next day for about an hour pretty hard and i havent had anymore problems like i was having from the jets being gummed. It definetly saved me a carb clean for the cost of the stuff. I bought it at an autozone for like 6 bucks.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 11:32 PM   #17
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Looking into this lol it would be a good excuse to ride. "But Honey, I have to get the fuel treatment flowing"
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Old March 27th, 2014, 01:24 PM   #18
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The MSF course is designed to teach you proper riding techniques. The only thing they assume is that you know how to ride a bicycle. Folks who "practice" before taking the course tend to teach themselves bad habits that the instructors have to address during the course. Do yourself and them a favor by parking the bike until after you've taken the course.
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Old March 28th, 2014, 02:32 AM   #19
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The MSF course is designed to teach you proper riding techniques. The only thing they assume is that you know how to ride a bicycle. Folks who "practice" before taking the course tend to teach themselves bad habits that the instructors have to address during the course. Do yourself and them a favor by parking the bike until after you've taken the course.
I know this is not what you want to hear (I was excited and only wanted to ride when I got my first bike) but with the stalling issue and your skill level you should park the bike till both are better.

Sorry for the bad news but here is some good news. I believe the stalling issue is only gummed up carbs. The solution stated above should have it resolved in no time. I personally use SEAFOAM but there are many types of pour in the tank fuel system cleaners which will work. The best way to use them is to pour in recommended amount into fuel tank, start and ride bike for a few miles, let it sit ( so the treatment enters carbs and has time to break down deposits) and then repeat ride. Unfortunately you should not ride while your bike is having these issues (really you should not have this to deal with while learning to ride) so I recommend that you just idle the bike revving the motor once in a while up to 7-8000 rpm then back to idle for 30-45 mins then let sit for an hour or so then repeat. Doing this for 1 day and letting the bike sit over night should allow the chemical to do its job (depending on how bad the issue is) and get you past this issue. The next day you can see if the stalling is still there if you are willing to risk a ride (I really do think you should wait till you have proper training but I was once in your exact position and did not wait) but if you do ride be extra careful and keep it slow!

Sorry for the long write up but I hope you understand the way to correct your problem (if we have guessed correctly at the cause) and how risky it is to ride with this happening at random and also the importance of not learning bad habbits before you get proper instruction. You will spend more time correcting bad riding form than you would have learning the correct way to begin with!

Good luck and keep us posted
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Old March 28th, 2014, 03:08 AM   #20
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Following the advice here, I haven't touched the bike since I took it home from work the day this thread started. Was that yesterday? Day before? I'll be honest with you guys, this sitting around thing sucks. The late April classes are all booked up already and it isn't even time to register for the Mid-May ones.
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Old March 28th, 2014, 03:26 AM   #21
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The parking lot (lack of traffic) is not the issue. The reason everyone is saying to not ride is the proper form. You can ride and practice if you want to but if you wait then they will teach you all of the proper ways to ride. Think of your skill like a nice safe house you are building. Once finished you will live within your skill and safely navigate the roads. But if you start off with a bad foundation there MAY be issues which will not show themselves till you become a better rider and are riding closer to the bikes limits (where little things matter more) and then it takes longer to relearn/correct than if you started off doing it correctly and simply improved from there. I am going thru that now. I learned to ride long ago, and now I am planning a track day and I have realized there are some big flaws in my riding style. I have years of muscle memory to reprogram and at the track a small mistake between my way and the proper way could be the difference between a great day and a bad day!
You must decide if your desire to play with your bike now is worth the possible issues (there may be none) or not. I would recommend that read as much as you can find about riding technique run thru everything in your mind (even while sitting on the bike) learn about Apexes and trail breaking and anything you can find. Wait till you have proper instruction to apply these things you have read about. The art of riding a bike is a long journey and I know it is killing you not being able to ride your new love (I am in Mass and have not ridden in over 2 months due to winter) but there are more rewards to waiting than rushing right now. Summer is just around the corner and it wont be long before you can ride and ride safe! 2 months till MSF course then the rest of your life riding safe VS trying it out and possibly putting scratches on her and you. You are at your highest risk right now then add in the stalling issue and I would recommend you wait

Good luck
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Old March 28th, 2014, 06:04 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Kscreations08 View Post
The late April classes are all booked up already and it isn't even time to register for the Mid-May ones.
I know it sucks. I bought mine last year March, and intentionally watched it sit there until May when I could into the first class. I had a friend ride down to the school parking lot before that, but that was it.

I can't assume all MSF instructors are the same ... but, if it's anything like mine, it was worth 10X the admission fee.

PS ... Work on your bike stalling issue before then.

Thanks, Neal
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Old March 28th, 2014, 06:36 AM   #23
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Bummer Kevin, camp the door the morning before class starts. You could be a walk-in if there is a no show. There's hope!

Sitting around now is better than sitting around longer with a cast on. ijs Also, this is a great time to read on mechanics of your new machine. Learn all you can about maintenance and general upkeep.

Detail your bike often as well, you will be surprised how often things come loose, break or get rusty. How do I know? Because I didn't do it this year like I should have and rushed to the track and what happens??? A fairing breaks loose mid corner while I am going at a pretty quick pace.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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Old March 28th, 2014, 11:34 AM   #24
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An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Also good relationship advice.
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Old March 30th, 2014, 08:23 PM   #25
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Started snowing today, aboiut 2 inches of ice, snow, sleet, and **** out there. This is winter's last hold on my area and she does not want to let go. I guess the weather makes it easier to stay off the bike. For the record guys, this is the most depressing thread on this site lol. I know you all mean well and I know I need to stay off the bike. Been working on her, trying to get her perfect. My low beam light was blown out so I replaced that. Deliberately did not research how so it would take longer. Sadly, I figured it out in about 15 minutes lol. I think I'm going to tear out the carbs. Bike can't go anywhere if she is in pieces
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Old March 31st, 2014, 01:44 AM   #26
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Motorcycle(s): Ducati 999 2012 Ninja 250r Ducati748 Yellow finally running 2003 SV650 S (SOLD)

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KSCREATIOS that is the best thing right now. Knowledge is your friend. The more you maintain the bike the more you will understand it and you will see how it all works together. You will find that 9f one little thing is off then it can really effect the rest of the bike. There is so much information on this site so tear it down with confidence that you will be able to correct any issues then reassemble it better that before. This will make you more aware later so you can catch issues before they get dangerous! You can never know too much about your bike there are always things to check and tighten.
Almost everyone on this site has had the same issue with down time this winter, It just feels worse to you because you have just been bitten by the riding bug. There will be an entire summer (followed by many more) for riding when you are truly ready. Maintenance is a big part of bike ownership so practice now will save $$ later. Read read read and learn your machine. When you cant physically ride you can mentally increase your skills!

Three or four weeks from now you will take a course learn proper technique and be ready to enjoy a sport safely for the rest of your life. I have 3 bikes in my basement that have not seen the light of the sun for 10 weeks. All I have been able to do is clean, polish, adjust and install new parts and I have been riding since 1993! The bikes are ready I just have to wait till its the right time to ride. WOW this is a really depressing thread! Just like a kid waiting for Christmas it will be here soon enough.
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