March 26th, 2009, 10:32 PM | #1 |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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DIY Replacing the clutch cable
If your clutch cable does not "feel" right it is time to check to see if the cable is frayed or snapped. Hopefully you're lucky that you can catch a frayed cable before your on the road. Mine snapped on me while I was on my way to school so its not a fun feeling.
How to remove the clutch cable from the the lever. Pictures of my frayed cable First thing is to have a new OEM clutch cable on hand. Remove the fairings. I removed the gas tank because I wasn't sure if the clutch cable was zipped tied to other cables underneath the gas tank. Turns out the cable is not tied to anything and you can leave the tank on. Just be sure to route the new cable in the same way that the old cable is routed. Pushing the old cable out Make sure to route the new cable into the the circle (circled in red) which is directly under the gas tank if removed. The last portion of the cable is routed through the radiator reservoir (hard to see but its under my right turn electrical cable in this picture) There are two nuts you have to unscrew. Top and bottom. Both top and bottom nut are unscrewed with a 10mm wrench. Screw the top screw upward as far as it will go. Unscrew the the bottom nut till it comes off the threaded portion of the cable. With both nuts loose you can slide the cable out of the cable adjuster neck Remove the old cable end from the clutch lever clevis and pull out of the housing. Now finish routing the new cable in place of the old cable. Starting from the bottom end hook the new clutch cable end into the clutch cable clevis. Pull the new cable into the clutch cable adjuster housing (Forgot to snap a pic so using a repetitive pic) Screw the bottom onto the threaded portion but not all the way to hold the cable into the cable adjust housing. Move onto the upper portion of the new cable. LEAVE THE PLASTIC PIECE ON. Make sure everything is lined up as in the picture when installing the new cable into the lever. I greased the metal clamp portion of the cable The handlebar adjuster should be backed off all the way because you need to adjust the bottom end first. Make sure the clutch lever is pushed up all the way and begin tightening both lock nuts to remove the free play. After you are satisfied with the bottom portion move onto the upper portion to remove the last of the free play. Turn the adjusting screw out until there is 2-3 millimeters of play at the lever. Once you are satisfied with the adjustment, double check the cable routing. There should be no binding or pulling of the cable when the handlebars are turned (original source cited). Dress up your ninjette and start riding again.
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Area P CF Standard,Airbox Removed,K&N R-0990,Factory Pro Jet Kit 3.0, Zero Gravity DB I'm not riding too fast... I'm flying too low. Last futzed with by islanderman7; March 27th, 2009 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Leave the plastic piece on at the upper portion of the cable |
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March 26th, 2009, 10:42 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Great write up, Jordan.
My only comment is that when you put the new clutch cable onto the bottom clutch lever arm, you should grease the barrel like you did at the top. did you ever find the source of why the original cable failed/frayed? in your pics, it looks like the clutch lever is positioned so that it is almost parallel with the ground. is it? |
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March 26th, 2009, 10:47 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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Nice write-up! Added to DIY sticky...
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March 26th, 2009, 11:09 PM | #4 |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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Thanks.
Oops, I gotta go back and grease the bottom end then. Still didn't find the source, but the cable is parallel to the ground. I was playing around with the lever to see how the new cable was rubbing around in the housing, but found nothing. So far I put close to 500 miles on it and the cable "feels" fine.
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Area P CF Standard,Airbox Removed,K&N R-0990,Factory Pro Jet Kit 3.0, Zero Gravity DB I'm not riding too fast... I'm flying too low. |
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March 26th, 2009, 11:23 PM | #5 |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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This just came to me, but is there such thing as over greasing the metal clamp portion? Because I am thinking that since wet paper is easier to rip than dry paper; does this same concept apply to metals?
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Area P CF Standard,Airbox Removed,K&N R-0990,Factory Pro Jet Kit 3.0, Zero Gravity DB I'm not riding too fast... I'm flying too low. |
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March 26th, 2009, 11:32 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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I don't think so. if anything the grease is acting as a lubricant between the metals to reduce friction between them.
my thought is that the angle at which the cable is leaving the adjustment housing is allowing the cable to rub against the adjuster at the lever end of the adjuster barrel. can you take some pics of your lever setup where the cable leaves the adjuster? |
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March 27th, 2009, 12:49 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jhaqui
Location: Earth
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 83
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Just a question. Say one is riding at highway speeds and the clutch cable fails to work properly or snaps for some reason. What can one do to get control of the bike?
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March 27th, 2009, 12:52 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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just don't come to a complete stop. you can shift without the clutch. when you finally do have to stop, hit the kill switch.
if you are in stop and go traffic, park it. |
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March 27th, 2009, 04:17 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
Location: Northern Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.
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Your original problem may have been caused by the cable not having the plastic cylinder that you removed in the attached picture. My original cable still has that piece installed at the lever end!
Also, look at the second picture (kkim's cable), it still has the plastic piece attached! |
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March 27th, 2009, 08:21 AM | #10 |
The Sexy Filipino
Name: Jordan
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2008 (da black one) Posts: 312
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Sam I think you're right. The way my original cable frayed, it look like it was "cut" at the neck of the metal clamp. So the plastic piece probably prevents that kind of chaffing.
Originally I took the plastic piece off because on the old cable I did not see a plastic piece on there. I wish the service manual specified about leaving that piece on. Oh well, nothing I can do about right now, but I am glad I know now.
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Area P CF Standard,Airbox Removed,K&N R-0990,Factory Pro Jet Kit 3.0, Zero Gravity DB I'm not riding too fast... I'm flying too low. |
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March 27th, 2009, 08:54 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
Location: Northern Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.
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Jordan,
It sounds like you already trashed the plastic piece. If so, you might consider going to a Lowes or Home Depot, etc. Pick up a piece of plastic hose (appropriate diameter) and cut a section out of it. Fashion it to fit like the original. Worse case, you wear it out quicker than the original, but with a 12" piece of hose, you can make a few more. I will bet the inside of the lever is probably worn a bit from the metal contact. |
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January 4th, 2010, 11:57 PM | #12 | |
Da Duckman
Name: Duckman
Location: Pensacola, FL
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, '06 Chopper, '80 Puch Magnum II, '01 SV650, '99 CR250/CR500AF Sportbike. '02 CRF450/CR500AF Dirt Posts: 480
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Quote:
I had to pull the now dead clutch lever in, put the bike in first gear and push the starter button, the bike would lurch forward and begin running, I could then carefully snick it into the following gears and ride otherwise normally. Stopping was even more interesting... put it into neutral, and kill the engine. When stopped with engine off, kick it into first gear, then repeat the above to go again! |
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July 15th, 2010, 11:20 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: W
Location: Austin, TX
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (sold), 2012 Tuono V4R Posts: 512
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I'm trying to put the clutch cable back on, but no matter how hard I can (safely) pull, I can't get the cable over the lower adjustment area! If I pull any harder, I'm going to knock my bike off my stands! I swear, every time I've messed around with the cable, it's taken me all my strength just to get them on and off the lever!
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R - "Aria" (sold) 2012 Aprilia Tuono V4R - "Perrine" Proof that Harleys and Ninjettes are friendly with each other |
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July 16th, 2010, 04:59 AM | #14 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
Location: Northern Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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July 16th, 2010, 05:39 AM | #15 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: W
Location: Austin, TX
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (sold), 2012 Tuono V4R Posts: 512
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Quote:
The solution wasn't as obvious as it wasn't anywhere in the SM. Apparently, the arm at the bottom where the cable links with the clutch can lock into a certain position if the arm was lifted out of the clutch. Because it was locked in that position, I had no way of pulling it to get the cable through the adjuster at the bottom. The solution was that arm can be lifted out of the clutch a bit to remove the lock, reposition the arm, then put the arm assembly back into the clutch.
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R - "Aria" (sold) 2012 Aprilia Tuono V4R - "Perrine" Proof that Harleys and Ninjettes are friendly with each other |
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July 16th, 2010, 06:01 AM | #16 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
Location: Northern Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.
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Yep, that arm is a PITA. When I tried to retrofit the ZX-10R clutch lever, I needed another 1" of cable slack, but couldn't find my "cable stretcher"... Never did get the cable end over that arm! Needless to say, I'm not using the ZX-10R setup!
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December 14th, 2010, 06:04 PM | #17 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Hey, OP. Wanna send me your old rubber boot piece from your frayed cable? I'd appreciate it! Mine is rotten and only a tiny bit remains.
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January 31st, 2011, 04:27 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: John
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Join Date: Jan 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250R Posts: 9
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Update
Just to post an update to the photos, Kawasaki is now making their clutch cables and all replacements with a metal covering over the end rather than a plastic one. I guess the plastic was wearing out too quickly.
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--Doerrman You can't learn less. |
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February 23rd, 2011, 06:05 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dimbs
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250r Posts: 2
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Hey Jordan et al,
Thanks, this really helped. Everywhere I was calling I was being forced to vomit atleast $100 just for the replacement...the wire costed seperate. Thanks again for the post. |
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February 23rd, 2011, 07:00 PM | #20 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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FWIW, I got mine repaired instead of replacing it at Clairemont Cycle Supply. ~$20 but no waiting.
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February 23rd, 2011, 10:34 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dimbs
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250r Posts: 2
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hmmm..."repair"...how does that works? Wud be interesting to know....
Over here "Down Under" I had to wait 3 days b4 they could even get me one, and when I finally went to the dealership to pick one, I was told that this one is "allegedly" the ONLY one in OZ currently......it sucked for a moment to think one would have to wait for 3 days to get a wear and tear essential part for 3 days |
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February 24th, 2011, 03:30 AM | #22 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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June 8th, 2011, 10:25 PM | #23 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Brendan
Location: Sydney
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 1
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cheers
Thanks very much for this post, it has helped a lot. "shlokmalhotra", if you are in Sydney, you can order these through Sydney City Motorcycles. They had it in the next day for me.
Thanks again. |
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June 23rd, 2011, 11:45 AM | #24 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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When you buy the cable clutch, does it come with the black wire housing (don't know what it's called)? I guess the Cable Clutch Housing? Or does it just come with the clutch "cable" only? Because I couldn't seem to find where I can just slide the cable off the housing. I had to cut the cable to slide it off the housing.
Thank you for this thread. +1 Last night I was riding with my friends and when we were all going home i went to go get gas.. I heard some small snap then my clutch cable felt loose. I had to ride home with my clutch cable messed up. Died out a few times. Luckily it didn't break on me or I would of had to push the bike home. Edit: Nevermind I don't think there is rep points |
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June 23rd, 2011, 11:56 AM | #25 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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It's sold in one piece.
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June 23rd, 2011, 12:35 PM | #26 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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Thank you.
As for the grease, which grease should I use? Is Maxima Hi-Temp waterproof grease good? |
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June 23rd, 2011, 12:44 PM | #27 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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August 22nd, 2011, 09:19 PM | #28 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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Is the second to last picture (clutch lever, i think) suppose to be like that? Because won't dirt and stuff go inside the clutch/engine if theres a gap to the lever?
Last futzed with by lilyanx217; August 23rd, 2011 at 07:39 AM. |
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March 21st, 2017, 08:17 AM | #29 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Steve
Location: Norfolk VA
Join Date: Sep 2016 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250, 2013 Ducati 848 Evo Posts: 3
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Swap?
Does anyone by chance know if a ninja 300 clutch cable is swappable onto a ninja 250?
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