August 20th, 2015, 12:49 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Bush mechanic attacks! Help needed with prev owner dodgy fix.
Hi all
I recently bought a cheap little Ninja 250 to get about on while my other bike is being fixed. It had a few little things wrong with it which iv fixed but last thing is a bit more complicated. Just a small oil leak from the bottom of the engine. As far as I'm aware this model Ninja has a new oil drain bolt going by this image. http://www.kawiforums.com/attachment...drain-bolt.jpg Now the dodgy part is there is a rag between the "old" sump bolt (including crush washer) and the case. Can someone tell me why someone would do this? Stripped thread on case??? Why would someone even remove this bolt? :S I'v never seen something like this before. At the moment it's leaking a roughly 1" size drop of oil overnight. What would be the best way of fixing this leak. Is there any reason this bolt would need to come back out again if I can drain from the "new" location instead? I'm probably only going to have the bike a few weeks and should just leave it as it is... but I just can't fight the urge to fix it properly lol |
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August 20th, 2015, 01:42 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Obviously the best thing to do would be to take it out and check what's going on but I kind of need the bike to get around on atm and the leak isn't that bad. Just lining up options for if/when I decide to fix it.
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August 20th, 2015, 02:09 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: .
Location: .
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14
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Use threebond 1215 gray RTV. It's intended for sealing cases on big equipment and is totally oil proof Also cures firm and never gets gooey when sitting in oil. Goober up the threads and put the bolt back in.
It's only marginally more correct than the rag, but at least I'm confident it will work. |
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August 20th, 2015, 02:25 AM | #4 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Quote:
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August 20th, 2015, 03:04 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: .
Location: .
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14
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Green, eh? I have no experience with green so I have no idea on that
My experience with 1215 is through work and using it to seal industrial gearboxes. It's very similar to what yamaha calls Yamabond and recommends to seal engine cases after the case has been split for service. Actually, I've had 1215 sealing my case covers and valve cover for a couple months now. |
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August 20th, 2015, 06:46 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Kurgan
Location: Texas
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 265
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August 21st, 2015, 01:48 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Of course. But this leak is really only 1 or 2 drips max overnight. I'm not too worried.
Will see how the stuff recommended goes on Monday. If you don't hear from me again Kurgan was right lol EDIT: Still here. Will see if the stuff works later today or tomorrow. Last futzed with by JenkinsBradbury; August 24th, 2015 at 08:11 PM. |
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August 25th, 2015, 02:03 PM | #8 |
Hello Moto
Name: Alex
Location: Ft. Myers
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 1975 RD350; 2001 KX125; 2003 Z1000; 2003 KDX50; 2009 ZX6R; 2011 Ninja 250R; 2014 KX250F Posts: 352
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My thought is: if the PO had to stuff a rag in there to slow the leak the threads are beyond the point of RTV sealing.
Obviously- check first before deciding on an option. Option 1: Helicoil the hole to install new threads Option 2: Rubber expanding drain plug http://www.autozone.com/external-eng...ug/256832_0_0/ |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 26th, 2015, 11:55 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Ok Iv had a look. Threads aren't that bad. There is a small crack in the case though and the crush washer was damaged. Going to try the stuff recommended and a new crush washer.
Still waiting for oil to drain out so I can get a clean thread... I cleaned up the area and had a closer look and the hairline crack runs along the outside of the thread hole and back up a few mm. Think this will still work or could it leak through the crack above the bolt? Only stuff I have at hand I think might be suitable would be some "NEWTECH Space Age Repairer 'good as liquid steel' contains aluminium" that someone left here. Last futzed with by JenkinsBradbury; August 27th, 2015 at 05:55 AM. |
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August 28th, 2015, 06:26 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jenkins
Location: Australia
Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, DRZ400SM. Posts: 15
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Well it's fixed, it's been a few hours and I went on a hard ride and there's no signs of leaks. Loctite rep happened to be at the store I went to and he recommended me two things, I forgot the first one so went with the second which was compound 660.
Waited 2 days for it to stop dripping, cleaned out the threads on engine and bolt best i could with brake cleaner and a brush, fitted a new washer then doused the bolt in compound. Left it to dry overnight and filled up this morning. Problem solved. Will still continue to check it for the next few rides. |
2 out of 2 members found this post helpful. |
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