July 3rd, 2017, 03:51 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: skip
Location: So cal
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250r Posts: 126
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tips on valves
I have an 09 with 42000 MILES and I don't know where to start or how to adjust valves would appreciate a how to possibly step by step simple guide on how to adjust them I've checked this sites other section still confused. Please and thank you
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July 3rd, 2017, 04:22 PM | #2 |
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Name: RJ
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https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9924
This is the one I used. Took me a weekend to do the adjustment. Saturday to get it all apart, Sunday to measure and put it all back together. Don't remove the CCT first though. That doesn't need to be removed till the cams have to come out. If you are still confused after viewing all the how to's maybe it's best to have a shop service them? |
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July 3rd, 2017, 04:39 PM | #3 |
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Name: Kevin
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Lazarus posted the link for adjusting the valves, here is the link for checking them: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9787
Follow that one first, then, if they need adjusting, follow the adjusting post. It looks intimidating, but if you take your time it's not bad. Be careful not to drop anything into the engine, and be careful to put the cams back in with the correct timing. Other than those two things, there's not too much to catastrophically screw up. Give yourself plenty of time so you don't get rushed and make a mistake.
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July 3rd, 2017, 05:43 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
One more thing to avoid major headaches: Clean off your engine top-end cover (the part the spark plug boots go into). Do it before removing the spark plug boots and definitely before opening the top end. The one and only I've let a shop work on my ninjette, they didn't clean it, and I didn't know to before giving it to them. They dumped and left about shotglass full of sand & gravel into the top end, which I spent the next week cleaning out of the engine & gearbox.
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July 7th, 2017, 06:26 PM | #5 |
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I just did this on an 09 not too long ago.
Feel free to PM me with questions/issues. It's really not THAT bad. I guarantee with that many miles you're going to have to adjust. Just go slow, and follow the guides on here to a T. Do NOT remove the cct first, and remember that once you do remove it, do not turn the engine without manually keeping tension on the chain with your hand. I made that mistake and it was a real hassle to sort it out. Also, do not remove the cam caps unless the engine is at TDC. This will cause the cam lobes to push down on the valve buckets, and when you start to remove the cam cap bolts, you'll get pressure on the caps, which will bind the dowel pins. Once those are bound, it becomes very stressful to remove the cam caps without cracking them. There's a thread on here where a guy did exactly what I just said not to do, and cracked the caps. If you crack them, you'll have to get a whole new head since they are machined together. So, again, the most important thing while doing the job is to follow the guides. Move slowly and precisely. |
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July 12th, 2017, 12:50 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: skip
Location: So cal
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250r Posts: 126
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Great tip guys thanks sure wish there was a video on how to . What if I bought new shims would it make valve adjustment easier if so what size are the new shims
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July 12th, 2017, 06:36 PM | #7 | |
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Name: Nick
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Quote:
You need to know: What is it supposed to be? What is it currently? What size shims are installed? Using this info, you can ascertain which shims you need to buy and replace. I have a spreadsheet that you punch these values into, and it spits out what shims you need to buy. Let me know if you want it. |
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July 12th, 2017, 06:39 PM | #8 |
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Name: Nick
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Also, I VERY HIGHLY suggest that you read and understand the process completely before you start.
No offense but I can tell by the questions you're asking that you don't understand how the valves/cams/shims/ etc work. Please do some research to learn how everything works, and the process will make much more sense. There's plenty of videos on YouTube on this topic. |
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July 12th, 2017, 07:29 PM | #9 |
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Name: RJ
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^^^^ this. Measure twice, cut once sort of deal.
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July 15th, 2017, 11:16 PM | #10 |
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Ninja 250 Valve Adjustment Videos
Hey guys,
About a month ago I finished a five part YouTube video series showing every step of a valve adjustment on a fourth generation Ninja 250. It has good camera angles and lighting. Check it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MP0k...2qZD9AtAFRAgGU |
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July 16th, 2017, 03:47 AM | #11 | |
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I haven't watched all of the videos, but what I did watch appears to be very well done. A lot of time went into making them and I'm sure many will find answers to their questions on your many vids. Thanks for sharing and.... welcome to the board Ronald!
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July 16th, 2017, 05:14 AM | #12 | |
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July 16th, 2017, 12:11 PM | #13 |
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Using a mic is very convenient. Because knowing the individual thicknesses, you can mix-and-match the shims between cylinders to optimize clearance. Then end up having to buy only one or two shims max.
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July 16th, 2017, 01:16 PM | #14 |
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July 16th, 2017, 03:20 PM | #15 | |
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Kaw and others made a valve depressor tool for my old KZ so you could get the shims out without removing the cams also, and the shims have the size inked on the backside so you know what the thickness is and can figure the size you need to get in spec. just wondering if the 250s shims are marked also. I've only had to adjust the valves on the Z1R twice in 70K miles.
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July 16th, 2017, 03:30 PM | #16 | |
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July 23rd, 2017, 06:54 PM | #17 | |
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+1 for having a micrometer on hand. Makes matchng shims exactly much more precise.
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July 23rd, 2017, 07:07 PM | #18 | |
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July 23rd, 2017, 09:59 PM | #19 |
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I wouldn't be surprised if they had some sort of hard wear-resistant coating. No need to pre-wear your shims before you even install them.
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July 24th, 2017, 12:48 AM | #20 | |
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July 24th, 2017, 08:15 AM | #21 | |
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But, point well made about the case hardening & appreciated - hadn't thought about it that way. I may be a scientist and have been doing self-wrenching for half my life, but there's always more to learn. One counterpoint is the caps/covers for the shims that sit between the shim & the cams should prevent direct abrasion on the cam lobes. The valve stem heads however are another story. Still, less friction in the engine is good.
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July 24th, 2017, 09:38 AM | #22 | |
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You know what they say about the word assume. Bill |
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