February 5th, 2018, 03:37 PM | #41 |
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February 5th, 2018, 04:26 PM | #42 |
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Yep, as valve & seats wear, their contact area ring increases in width. This spreads out spring-force and lowers pressure at contact, leading to less sealing. Lapping further increases this contact area. FSM dictates minimum & maximum seat contact width. Aim for the narrow end of range first with valve-job machining (3-angles). Then lap just slightly to improve sealing.
With modern machinery, it's not any more difficult or expensive to cut fully-radiused valve-seats. Then cut flat seating area of minimum width to preserve improved flow. Much, much better than 5 or 7 or 9-angle valve-jobs. Also beryllium-copper seats shown transfers heat much, much faster than steel, reducing wear and greatly enhances exhaust-valve lifespan. |
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February 5th, 2018, 07:24 PM | #43 |
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While you're at it... don't just rebuild willy nilly. Figure out why you touched off in the first place.
Lube oil blockage? Excessive particulate/dirty oil? Start attempts in the very cold that left the oil film depleted? Issues with timing of the valves/spark? I'm just spit balling here, but the suggestion still stands. You probably want to figure out the cause of your problem before repairing the damage from the side effects. |
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February 5th, 2018, 09:09 PM | #44 |
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I totally agree, you need to find the cause of death, not just guess at it. Otherwise it will do it again.
My money is on low on oil. These engines don't hold a lot, so oil starvation is a common problem. Always check you oil level before every ride. Remember your T-CLOCK. I stress this a lot when I teach the BRC.
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February 6th, 2018, 10:00 AM | #45 |
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Thanks everyone, I got a granite slab last night that I will put on the Work bench
The cause of the problem, hmm I know I was quite busy and I never did my oil change just added to the motor, so I am guilty of that I have had a problem at 2/3 points of me owning this bike and the oil depleting on me. I do know the valve cover was leaking. I did notice when I was having the motor torn down the was oil behind the starter and under the air box. That is a good point to check around though, oil was in the bike, my uncle(long time racer/tech guy) said to me one time that I had to put the oil all the way to the top of the fill hole, I was like no way, I thought I would then loose performance. Should I go ahead and get new ball bearings to make sure I don’t leak, I can’t remember if there was oil down there darn. |
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February 6th, 2018, 10:16 AM | #46 |
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Not top of fill-hole, but top of sight-glass. I check it multiple times per day.
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February 6th, 2018, 03:20 PM | #47 |
in your machine
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February 7th, 2018, 09:57 AM | #48 |
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Thanks guys I looked at the when I got the bike I was just bringing up the conversation that I had with my uncle. I do have a few questions though:
If I get another cylinder block and lap it, I should be ok correct; or would I possibly have an issue with the block to crank case? |
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February 7th, 2018, 10:17 AM | #49 | |
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Bill
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February 7th, 2018, 10:25 AM | #50 |
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The piece that you don't know where it goes looks like a cam chain guide.
Why did you need a cylinder again? I thought the rod bearings got toasted. Last futzed with by jkv45; February 7th, 2018 at 12:26 PM. Reason: typo |
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February 7th, 2018, 11:04 AM | #51 |
in your machine
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Just out of curiosity keep track of how much time and money it takes you to get it running again.
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February 7th, 2018, 09:23 PM | #52 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I saw the exploded diagram and looked at the case at had, took off the transmission final gears shaft and bam saw that a twin holding the pin/rod in the crescent part of the bearing case |
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February 8th, 2018, 07:00 AM | #53 | |
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Quote:
Though I have no idea what you are describing, it sounds expensive to repair... |
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February 9th, 2018, 01:08 AM | #54 |
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At the time I couldn’t find what I was looking for on Craigslist, and eBay wanted at least 500 including shipping, so I spent maybe 250 on my parts and got them, and learning a different process of doing something, never thought I was going to do “lapping” on a motor. I was taught that milling would be best, maybe that isn’t the only option.
So I got the crank, rods, cylinder block, and pistons all prepped and ready for tomorrow; the cyclindee bores will be honed after lapping process, I will be using a plastic gauge on the crank and rods, and the head will be serviced. This weekend I got to work a double shift but at least I will be doing my civic duty I did do a little bit of electrical in the garage so I can have a outlet near the work bench and cut out the timing chain blocker/ aluminum guide |
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February 9th, 2018, 10:06 AM | #55 |
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Did you get new or used crank & rods? Would be interesting to see what bearing-clearances are.
Good work! |
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February 9th, 2018, 01:27 PM | #56 |
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Whatever you do, don't have the head milled!!!!! Lapping is what is needed. There isn't enough meat on the head. I've seen others have it milled even just a little bit, and then the valves hit the pistons, etc...
Kawasaki didn't leave any meat on the bones whatsoever.
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February 9th, 2018, 02:05 PM | #57 | |
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Quote:
You definitely need to do a squish check with clay to see how much space you have before decking, but there should be some freedom in there. Maybe only 0.010" or so, which may not really even do much, but it's something. |
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February 9th, 2018, 03:59 PM | #58 | |
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March 6th, 2018, 04:39 PM | #59 |
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So whatever happened with this?
Did OP give up and buy used engine? |
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March 6th, 2018, 05:47 PM | #60 |
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If you still need a good crank and rods, I should have a good set in my parts motor.
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March 6th, 2018, 10:27 PM | #61 |
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torque it
harbor freight makes a great small 1/4 drive torque wrench.
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May 12th, 2018, 11:35 AM | #62 | ||||
ninjette.org member
Name: silentlyloud
Location: South Bay LA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I do thank everyone who has given me information to do this, as well as this site, and the 250 site. I heard when I was on the road and my battery gave out on me, I went to a bike shop, that I can post the name is that is ok. An employee there told me he upgraded his rims to a 17" and that gave him better/ more tire options, I am now looking into that, and stumbled along: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=266182 which I will have to read up on. but right now I have to get my paper for emt class done as well as get ready for a concert. I hope every body have a good day |
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May 12th, 2018, 11:40 AM | #63 |
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good luck
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May 13th, 2018, 10:00 AM | #64 |
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Good to hear you got bike back up and running!
Wheel swap to 17” is easy, for front follow that thread. Rear wheel is much, much easier if you swap in swingarm from new-gen, no need to machine spacers or wheel itself. |
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June 22nd, 2018, 10:45 AM | #65 |
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Name: silentlyloud
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I would like to thank every one for their support in every from of way. So the news on this bike is that it leaked oil like a champ, my dumb butt used form a gasket. On the crank case when I built the motor from the beginning, so last week I order two parts, the looking glass, and the rear seal for the final drive shaft. And I decided to split the case and do the case properly with sealant.
Well, there I was ready to ride again after installing the motor again, throw it in gear, and jumped a little bit; let off the clutch and bammmm nothing happened. I did also buy a new clutch and springs to be safe since I am alrdy there. Back to the problem, after tinkering with the cable and getting it to the manual specs, still nothing. I did sit there try to throw it in Gear on the center stand, and that worked, and in that moment it went through all gears. Just not on the floor, it would only get out of neutral, and go in first, I then threw the motor off the bike again split the case to check the gear drum or something was miss placed. Although everything seemed right I can’t figure why it won’t go nothings broken, gears and levers are fine. I did have to but the rod for the shift lever, the one with the springs because I bent a peice of metal, I can’t tell if I need the metal shaft that came with it or not it’s like a spacer under the large spring and the center rod. Anyways. I am going to clean the oil off the case, and sealant the sucker back up and try it again hopefully everything works:/ I did mass my classes this semester, now got to take the NREMT |
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June 22nd, 2018, 03:25 PM | #66 |
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Name: silentlyloud
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Ok, so I had aproblem it was due to INDEX oh man, I guess I got lucky when I built it the first time, took a little more research but I came across this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185340 Very helpful, and just want to say again to everyone that has helped me, thank you, and I hope to save some ones for a 330 and maybe another bike. But I did change my rear oil seal from the transmission final drive, changed the looking glass due to breakage/ leakage, and changed the sealant on the crankcase because I used some form a gasket, and by the looks of it no more oil leaks. But I did have that index problem for about two day because I did I know of that one. Last futzed with by GreasedLissik; June 22nd, 2018 at 11:08 PM. |
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June 28th, 2018, 08:19 AM | #67 |
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Hey, great job on repairs! That's a lot of work, good to see you pulled it off!
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July 24th, 2018, 02:38 AM | #68 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: silentlyloud
Location: South Bay LA
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Quote:
I did test drive it to see if it was ok, it’s just supper looowwww; even on the kick. stand it was about to tip over to the right side |
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July 24th, 2018, 07:39 AM | #69 |
ninjette.org member
Name: silentlyloud
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Here are some pictures, I guess I will have to take another with the bike on it’s side stand
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July 24th, 2018, 09:28 AM | #70 |
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No need for different chain, sprockets are the same. You can move sprocket & carrier over from original wheel. Then use chain adjusters on end of swingarm to adjust before tightening axle.
Shock on 300 is same length as 250. Make sure you don't have knuckle upside down. Take photo from side below. Did you grease all pivot bushings? Not sure were you needed washers? Get rid of that Crescent adjustable wrench!!! Only use sockets with torque-wrench to set proper bolt-tension on any suspension-related part. These are critical and can be difference between life & death!!! |
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July 24th, 2018, 02:51 PM | #71 |
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Yeah I only use that to hold the bolt, and which bracket are we talking about?
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July 24th, 2018, 07:33 PM | #72 | |
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Quote:
Do you have pre-load adjustment on shock turned up all way? Also measure length of shock eye-to-eye Measure length of dog-bone centre-to-centre I think you might have aftermarket lowering dog-bones. |
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July 26th, 2018, 06:22 AM | #73 |
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Thanks Danno, I took a look last night and found that the suspension is not like the coilover, it appears to a solid strut. And looking at the diagrams(#1) should I charge over that small bracket, the one that holds the lower suspension, trailing arm? First diagram is the 250, 2nd one is the 300. (#2) does the 300 shock and spring really fit the 250? If so I can just get the parts.
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August 4th, 2018, 11:43 PM | #74 | |
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Name: silentlyloud
Location: South Bay LA
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Quote:
edited I did find the stock dogbone length for when I measure it out: https://www.kawasa***************/fo...#/topics/93250 What’s the bottom bracket called that’s connected to the dogbone and the strut? And should I load the spring all the way to the highest setting? Last futzed with by GreasedLissik; August 8th, 2018 at 01:15 PM. |
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October 9th, 2018, 11:27 PM | #75 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: silentlyloud
Location: South Bay LA
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Quote:
My rebuilt motor took a crabs on me again at 7k, so I got myself a 300 with 4k on it. it came with TB, airbox, stator only, and wiring harness for only 500 bones and today I have ordered a used oem headers, front engine mount, engine front sprocket cover, and a coil pack for roughly 80-90 dollars Well I have been reading on people doing FI, NA/carbureted; and I believe that im leaning on the Carbed portion of this build, not knowing what i will have in mind for the later future. But my Main concern is about the plug and play, since I have the stator already for the 300 pulled of, that was the first thing I took off, since i read that the pregen stator/magneto is a better set up and the covers bolt patter matches. 1) i do want to use the pregen stator and magneto it's cover/housing? 2) what do i do with the air pressure sensor on the top of the 300's valve cover? i will be using the pregen radiator until i can find a car radiator, i am ok with welding some nuts onto cut rolled steel. I also read that the newgen coils where a good swap on the pregen but i forgot the thread that was on. 3) what did you mean but kleen air system block off? 4) could i use the pregen starter with the 300 gearing? the parts that have been ordered seem like they will be here by Monday, but i should have the motor in the saddle after i pressure wash the bike. i still need to order a jet kit or send the carbs to be worked on by a well know skilledman on a good note The bike does have the swing arm on with a 300 adjustable shock and a clean rim i am on the hunt for a 300 front rim, cant seem to think of anything else that i would like to bring up right now, so have a good day everyone and thanks |
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October 10th, 2018, 03:11 AM | #76 |
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Name: maverick9611
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i have a factory pro jet kit for pregens and a bunch of jets.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=324987
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October 10th, 2018, 06:19 PM | #77 |
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I have zero idea about anything related to the Ninja 300 engine swap because I've never done one. Sorry.
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October 22nd, 2018, 10:13 AM | #78 |
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Name: silentlyloud
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Good morning everyone, so I was able to install the 300 motor in the 250, I did use the 300 front mount bracket, the coil o plugs, stock exhaust, stator and magneto. I did start it up but i only did so twice, it seem that i have to check valve clearance and shim them, because there is a ticking noise. I did extend about 5 wires to make this work
And my biggest problem is that clutch needs to be held down to start the bike(which has never happened before) and when i go to release the clutch the bike died, i have today off and will check to see if my sensor is working after i shim the valves |
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October 22nd, 2018, 11:17 AM | #79 |
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Name: silentlyloud
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One more thing, I went to the store to get jets, but they gave me jets and pilots that were totally different. I’m going to return them and get a set that I was offered
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October 22nd, 2018, 02:58 PM | #80 | |
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