July 8th, 2023, 06:21 PM | #1 |
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Compression test results
Ok well I picked up another 250 recently and it was running pretty decent but then things went weird. Didn’t sound the same then it sounded funny like it was running out of gas. Then is died on me coming to a stop. Then I used choke to get it to fire up. It started and once I got the rpm’s back up it would run but poorly. Now it won’t idle so I pulled the carbs off to check them for any clogged passages etc. it all was clean and clear. So a couple days pass and I got the correct fitting for my snap on compression tester (I know it is accurate). And well on the first go around after warming the engine up (not easy to do) with the throttle wide open it would only pump about 40psi each subsequent revolution would net maybe 20psi it topped out at about 100psi on cylinder one after maybe 7-9 revolutions. And only about 90 psi on the other cylinder. I bought this bike and it rode good for maybe 300 miles. It has a flood title. I didn’t find a bunch of rust or anything on any parts of it so I figured maybe someone tried to get out of paying for it back in the day. But now I am not too sure.
Is this normal for it to take 7-9 revs to develop full compression readings? I as a car mechanic always went by 5 and that I needed to make close to half the total on the first. Last futzed with by Animal78; July 8th, 2023 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Half not have! |
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July 8th, 2023, 06:57 PM | #2 |
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animal-
no mention of total mileage and whether a valve clearance check was last done?
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Custom Carb Service |
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July 8th, 2023, 07:21 PM | #3 |
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11800 miles. Valves just checked by me. No issues with them. Lash was dead on. Previous owner said he went through the carbs but ended up only cleaning them and replacing the bowl gaskets which I was not sure of until I pulled them. They were clean like new. He said he replaced the valve cover gasket as it was seeping due to age I am sure and checked the valves now I am sure he did that. I don’t think he was malicious in his selling the bike and saying it ran good. But put me riding it at 70miles an hour for 20 plus each way and not being afraid to bring it up to 10-11k rpm and things might have gone south. He got it to teach his wife to ride.
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July 8th, 2023, 08:07 PM | #4 |
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What does plugs look like?
Try wet compression-test after adding 1cc of oil. Do you have borescope? Let's take look inside cylinders. |
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July 9th, 2023, 01:39 AM | #5 |
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Tried the bore scope but its diameter wouldn’t let see the cylinder walls. I have another scope I am going to try tomorrow (well later today). The piston crowns have a lot of carbon build up. The spark plugs look pretty close with each other cylinder two is a touch leaner. Both are pretty much spot on though. I even went as far as to check the exhaust temps. At one point when this first started it ran ok for a bit then I got it on the road and it started acting up. But it was running good before I took off. And the exhaust temps right at the first bend in the pipe were right around 570 each. That’s after running at full operating temperature.
My last thought doesn’t really add up but if the ignition was weak that would cause it to cut out and not want to run. But then again it would most likely have a dark colored or even wet looking plug??? The plugs are new less than 200 miles. |
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July 9th, 2023, 05:27 AM | #6 |
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Small cylinders can take more strokes to get all the air in the compression tester's hose up to pressure.
My guess is that dirt got in the carbs somehow. They can look perfectly clean but not be: https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html |
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July 9th, 2023, 05:49 AM | #7 |
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How would that account for having low compression overall? I mean 90psi it doesn’t want to run. This came on pretty suddenly as well I might add after running it pretty hard near the peak power rpm on a twistie backroad.
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July 9th, 2023, 06:03 AM | #8 |
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I was waiting for the oil test that Danno suggested before judging the compression numbers. You hadn't mentioned the part about coming on suddenly after a peak power run. Is there any chance it overheated, like the coolant level was low? How was the oil level during this run? (oil light flashing?)
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July 9th, 2023, 07:17 AM | #9 |
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Coolant full temp normal I am going to get out my leak down tester and check it. I am thinking possibly damaged valve? Or rings broken.
It had a fresh oil change with a good filter and motul oil. 10w40 |
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July 9th, 2023, 08:04 AM | #10 |
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It seems unlikely that valves or rings would be equally damaged in both cylinders, but at this point I guess you have to start checking everything.
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July 9th, 2023, 09:27 AM | #11 |
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Finished leak down test. Nothing too surprising. No leaks from valves. Just into the crankcase. Which I suspected. Cylinder 1 is the worst offender leaking and number 2 just barely leaks but that’s at only 10psi. So I can engine how things escalate from there. Gauge is not super accurate but it’s a steady flow of air at low pressure.
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July 9th, 2023, 09:51 AM | #12 |
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Were you able to use a different bore scope to see the cylinder walls?
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July 9th, 2023, 10:20 AM | #13 |
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I am charging it up now. I was able to see a bit in cylinder 1 but need to attach the mirror to it for a better view.
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July 9th, 2023, 10:44 AM | #14 |
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There are grooves worn into the cylinder walls. Hopefully the attachment will show up.
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July 9th, 2023, 12:10 PM | #15 |
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July 9th, 2023, 12:39 PM | #16 |
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Danno where would I find decent replacement parts? Gasket set, pistons etc? I feel like I would probably be smart to go through the cylinder head as well. Clean it make sure the surface is flat. Think it needs to be sleeved or could it just be bored over it appears that I could get away going oversize on the bore.
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July 9th, 2023, 01:00 PM | #17 |
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But what caused the sudden scoring?
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July 9th, 2023, 01:33 PM | #18 |
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I doubt it was sudden but the bike has a flood title….. my guess is it cleaned the rust off lol. I changed the oil when I got it and it looked like it had been just changed. Then today when I took a closer look at the flywheel I noticed it has rust on it.
Last futzed with by Animal78; July 9th, 2023 at 01:35 PM. Reason: More info |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
July 9th, 2023, 05:38 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=187321 https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263401 |
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July 9th, 2023, 06:52 PM | #20 |
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Babbits has all the stuff oem. But it ain’t cheap. I priced out everything I would need to put it back to stock and it was 840 with tax. I will check with them first before I do anything. Not really sure it’s worth spending that much. That is more than half of what I paid for the whole bike. And doesn’t include labor to install the sleeves or clean up the head.
Also this assumes that I don’t find anything else awry with the engine. Like loose rods etc. |
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July 10th, 2023, 10:00 AM | #21 |
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Used engines can be had from breakers for $300-500. Check around. eBay's actually decent with money-back guarantees.
I have spare new-gen engine with related parts if you want to do swap. |
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July 10th, 2023, 06:43 PM | #22 |
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Is it possible to remove the cylinder block from the engine case with it in the bike? Thinking about tearing it down. But wanted to see what the original parts look like. I know once I tear the engine open it’s a fix it or replace the engine deal. It’s either that or I sell a very good condition (otherwise) bike like it is. I am thinking for it just like it sits I would take 650 for it. It will run just not well enough to ride it. Trying to not spend a fortune on it when for what it cost me total I would more than likely have way too much in it. The salvage places have engines I can get for 500 plus tax. Then I still need to get a few things to finish it up. I figure going that way would set me back about 700-800 bucks and my labor.
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July 10th, 2023, 07:05 PM | #23 |
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Easier just to drop engine to take it apart. So much easier to reach head and cylinder bolts.
You're gonna swap it anyway. No way you can rebuild it for low enough to make it worthwhile. Used engines are plentiful. Just make sure you get from breaker with performance guarantee. Heck, some of them will do compression-test for you. |
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July 11th, 2023, 06:02 PM | #24 |
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Well just for fun and since I still have it apart I ran the compression test again. 110 on 1 100 on 2. Any one got some liquid compression I can borrow lol. Ugh. I want to ride it but I do still have one other motorcycle I don’t really care for but I am stuck paying for. A 2020 Harley Iron 883. It’s really nice but not my cup of tea it turned out. I bought it new in June 21 and it just now has 1800 miles on it. Runs good has a load of torque sucks at speeds greater than 65 though. The wind is a real killer! I am too vain to put an ugly windshield on it! Messes up the whole look of the bike.
So anyway…. Anyone interested in the Ninja feel free to drop me a line. I am near Charlotte NC. I am taking offers. Here is a pic. I can take some more later. |
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July 11th, 2023, 11:12 PM | #25 |
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Wow, that's rare and really cool colour scheme!!
For 1st time in long time, I don't have Ninja 250... hmmm... |
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July 12th, 2023, 03:46 AM | #26 |
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It’s got a lot going done already. Brakes new, including petal type front rotor. New seat cover, turn signals relocated to the empty pods somewhat custom fender elimination. I built the plate bracket. Brand new front tire rear tire is good but older. And that Kawi Green paint scheme is harder to find. The body panels are all there and not broken. I have three keys so you got two extra lol. The inside of the gas tank is clean. Anyway pm me if you’re interested. I have a walk around video of it.
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July 12th, 2023, 09:00 AM | #27 |
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Here is a video if it running.
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July 12th, 2023, 09:01 AM | #28 |
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Video
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July 12th, 2023, 02:07 PM | #29 |
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Darn, such nice bike. Unfortunately no way to get it to Arizona easily...
You may want to try hail-mary pass with piston soak. Alternate 2-3cc PB-Blaster for 12-hrs then acetone and ATF for couple rounds. It actually worked on my wife's Corolla to bring cylinder-3 from 60psi back up to 195psi! |
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July 12th, 2023, 02:42 PM | #30 |
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When you did compression test you did it with the throttle wide open right ? If not you get really low reading. I assume you checked airbox to ensure no blockages there too.
I had similar symptoms when I tried coil on plug conversion ran great for a gew miles then overloaded the ignition system due to lower resistance of the CoP. |
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July 12th, 2023, 03:30 PM | #31 |
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Throttle wide open. I tried it with the engine hot and cold.
I may soak it for a day or two and see what happens with a little atf. |
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July 12th, 2023, 04:08 PM | #32 |
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July 12th, 2023, 05:07 PM | #33 |
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I didn’t I went straight to doing the leak down test. That’s when I found that it was going past the rings. I am trying Danno’s idea and soaking it for a bit maybe I will get lucky.
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July 15th, 2023, 10:46 AM | #34 |
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Yamaha used to make a product called Ring Free. Ad to fuel. Run it. It frees the rings to get back normal pressure if that was the problem.
Lime Green KZ is the color! |
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July 15th, 2023, 11:50 AM | #35 |
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They still make it. It’s mainly for two strokes to clean the carbon off the top end. It’s debatable whether or not it would be really helpful on a 4 stroke. Maybe occasionally it would but I would just run seafoam through it and that would do the trick.
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July 15th, 2023, 06:47 PM | #36 |
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Solved! Got it to run good again! Soaked for three days with atf then repeated the compression test 150 and 145 on a cold engine. Then I replaced both spark plug wires. Reinstalled the spark plugs and the gas tank primed the fuel system set the choke and gave it a shot at first it didn’t want to run but after a few blips of the throttle I got it cleared out. Took it for a spin and she runs nice now. Smoother too. I went 7 miles and no issues tomorrow will be the test. I think it will be ok though. Before it would act up in less than a quarter mile. I will put some miles on it and recheck compression. Hoping to see better numbers.
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July 15th, 2023, 10:50 PM | #37 |
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Alright good job!! Now be sure to always use full-synthetic oil. Dino oil starts burning and clogging stuff at mile-1.
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July 16th, 2023, 05:07 AM | #38 |
ninjette.org member
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I have Motul in there as I type this! So I should be good! The next thing after I am 100% on this being resolved is to beef up the suspension. It doesn’t need much as with gear and my backpack I am probably about 180-185 lbs. and a rear tire.
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July 17th, 2023, 04:04 PM | #39 |
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Cheers on a successful fix! Would you mind posting a picture of the comp tester "fitting"; is that an item from Snapon, or other source? Thanks!
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July 18th, 2023, 06:23 PM | #40 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Larry
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https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T.../dp/B00SDGVWQO
Hope this link works I bought them at a local parts store. In other news things got worse for the 250 today. It died it’s definitely not going to run again. 30psi and 40psi that’s the most it gets up to. It was good for about 140 miles. I was running at a good pace and keeping my eyes on the road I finally had to slow for a stop sign and looked at the gauges the temp was way up and the fan was not coming on. By the time I made it home which was like 3 more minutes (the gauge wasn’t pegged out not in the red) it was hot enough that I barely made it into the driveway and then it died when I pulled in the clutch and puked out some coolant. I went in and let it cool down then tried to start it nothing that’s when I decided to run the compression test again. So anyone who wants a nice complete 2000 model 250 and wants to fool with it they can make me an offer. It’s got some new parts like the seat cover, front tire, battery, plug wires, spark plugs, steering head bearings. Etc. I like the bike it’s fun to ride it but not down to spend 500 on a used engine. I still have another bike. |
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