Best shifting and cruising rpms?

[Avaholic88]

I'm a relatively new rider, still trying to hone in on the most efficient engine speeds. These days I'm particularly interested in getting the most out of a gas tank on a commute and helping the bike last without too much unneccessary weardown...

This has been my strategy over the last few months:

Twisties and Recreational: 8k-11k with the occasional redline dance if I'm feeling peppy.

Up to Freeway, Shift between 7k and 8k, ~65mph cruising requires about 8k in top gear...

City roads: Shift at 7k, cruise at about 6k

So, how do you manage your engine speed? What's your recommendation?

Thanks

[CC Cowboy]

I like to ride between peak torque and peak horsepower.

[Apex]

Any RPM that won't blow up my engine tends to suit me just fine.

[Avaholic88]

Originally Posted by CC Cowboy

I like to ride between peak torque and peak horsepower.

Pardon my noobness, but where does that generally fall in say, 5th gear for you?

[2WheelGuy]

New rider 6000 rpm

After a few weeks 8000 rpm

After a few months 10,000 rpm

Old timer 12,800 rpm+

[Sailariel]

I never run under 8K. Usually don`t engage 6Th until I am going at least 60. When doing long distances---and I do 500mi in one clip, I run about 9.5 to 10.0 RPM. Keep in mind that my front sprocket is 15T. Hope that helps.

[CC Cowboy]

Originally Posted by Avaholic88

Pardon my noobness, but where does that generally fall in say, 5th gear for you?

Max Horsepower 36 @ 11000 RPM (26 @ rear wheel)
Max Torque 18 Ft/Lbs @ 10000 RPM (14 @ rear wheel)


Torque (Ft Lbs) 16.2
Torque (Nm) 22
Torque RPM 9500

Can't tell who to believe but you have to have the RPMs up there no matter what.

[karlosdajackal]

Originally Posted by CC Cowboy

Max Horsepower 36 @ 11000 RPM (26 @ rear wheel)
Max Torque 18 Ft/Lbs @ 10000 RPM (14 @ rear wheel)


Torque (Ft Lbs) 16.2
Torque (Nm) 22
Torque RPM 9500

Can't tell who to believe but you have to have the RPMs upt here no matter what.

You are correct for the USA bike. For us Europeans with Fuel Injection the torque starts earlier so the power band is much wider. (2800 rpm versus 1000rpm)

Maximum power 24 kW {33 PS} / 11,000 rpm
Maximum torque 22 N·m {2.24 kgf·m} / 8,200 rpm

I also keep it in the power band as much as possible 8,200 - 11,000. I i had a USA spec bike, i'd be keeping it up above 9 most of the time.

[Avaholic88]

Wow ok. I've been going way too conservative and it's probably hurting performance. Guess I better step it up to where the bike sounds nicest Would you say these higher rpm's improve fuel economy as well as power production?

[rockNroll]

Originally Posted by Avaholic88

Wow ok. I've been going way too conservative and it's probably hurting performance. Guess I better step it up to where the bike sounds nicest Would you say these higher rpm's improve fuel economy as well as power production?

Wring it's neck!

[bdavison]

Id have to agree....
Once the bike is broken in. Wring its neck.

I have no doubt that a majority of those newbs that dump the 250r after a month for a "upgrade" never figured out that once its broken in and you can wring it out...the 250 is quite the peppy little bike.

Just make sure you've given it ample break in time....then dont be afraid to let er rip.
And dont hold back.

I dont know about fuel economy...'cause...well honestly, I couldnt care less. At 7 bucks for a fill up. It's so cheap to run, its almost free. If you're just putting around town at 6g all the time, its probably sipping gas. But even if you wind it up, the gas milage is still better than a hybrid car. And the fun factor far outweighs the price of a tank of gas in the higher revs.

[karlosdajackal]

probably better fuel economy in the power band too. if you keep it too low you end up burning more gas trying to accelerate in the part of the rev range where the engine is its most efficent. There is a balance somewhere between max power and getting maximum acceleration and 0rpm and not using too much fuel.

Certainly if the bike is stuggling to pull you along at low rpms your wasting gas, downshift it to where it can actually produce results from the gas being feed to the engine instead of burning it up and not producing much at the lower rpms (4k and below)

[Flashmonkey]

Originally Posted by Avaholic88

Would you say these higher rpm's improve fuel economy as well as power production?

Well seeing as how a 250 probably has the best fuel consumption you'll ever see on a sporty vehicle...I'd say don't worry about it and just wring it's neck!

[Avaholic88]

Sounds good I'll stop babying it and let 'er rip. Thanks everyone.

[Apex]

I've come to terms that my motorcycle is my toy. Therefore I have started to treat it as such. It is a toy, therefore you should have some fun on it. It sees redline at least a few times while I'm out riding. My friend, who is no longer with us, always lived by one thought, "drive it like you stole it."

That is what I do.

[CodE-E]

I'm a quite conservative with RPMs when riding through town (~3-6 k RPM) because my exhaust is rather loud. And my commute to work is fairly short (<10 km), barely long enough for the oil to reach proper operating temperature, so I don't go over 10 k RPM then. I only really ride full out on the weekends, when I ride for pleasure. Gonna do so tomorrow!

[Cammotwin]

Im a noob and I've been tooling around on my bald tire until I can get it replaced Tuesday. I've been in the 5-7k range and that's when I get a pretty annoying bumble-bee sound from the front end. ANYONE ever get that? Its so annoying that I dont want to take it up over 7k.
Thanks, Barb

[captlombardi]

I used to take it to redline more often but not so much anymore. For smooth, spirited acceleration
I shift around 8 but to keep the muffler sounding sweet and throaty I shift around 5 or 6.
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[mikecronis]

I usually shift around 3 or 4 when in traffic (increases gas mileage since I can't get past the jam, no lane-splitting in Colorado). Gives me about Honda Civic acceleration and keeps the engine happy without bogging.

Riding normally with no traffic about 6k to 7k.

Racing around and/or playing: 10k to 12k, right around the peak Hp range.

Theory IS, if you can shift at lower rpms due to acceleration of traffic being slow then DO so. It saves wear-and-tear on your engine and improves gas mileage. There's no point holding your rpms at 10k rpm when traffic is going 20 mph.

I usually average 74-84 mpg.

[jporter12]

Last year, when I first started riding, I was easy on it. I rarely saw over 8k. Once I got more comfortable with the bike, and riding in general, I started running it harder. This year, I started out a little tough on it, to get some fuel ran through it. Then I started going on some group rides where I was the only 250, and from then on out I found myself running the crap out of it! I have been a bit easier on it now that I've been riding every day, and find that I don't run it up to redline nearly as often.

[Guinss]

Originally Posted by Cammotwin

Im a noob and I've been tooling around on my bald tire until I can get it replaced Tuesday. I've been in the 5-7k range and that's when I get a pretty annoying bumble-bee sound from the front end. ANYONE ever get that? Its so annoying that I dont want to take it up over 7k.
Thanks, Barb

Probably the windscreen.

If it rattles, its probably the clutch lever.

[mikecronis]

The parallel-twin Ninja 250 is a pretty buzzy bike. Try getting yourself "Gel Gloves" from Olympia. It will absorb the buzz pretty well.

Also, since you're n00b, you possibly haven't taken the MSF course, which I strongly strongly recommend.

Lastly, you're probably putting a lot of your weight on your wrists. Try pulling up using your lower back instead a bit, or your legs. Just don't straight-arm onto the handlebars. Your arms should be loose and bent.

[Hadyn]

Originally Posted by Cammotwin

Im a noob and I've been tooling around on my bald tire until I can get it replaced Tuesday. I've been in the 5-7k range and that's when I get a pretty annoying bumble-bee sound from the front end. ANYONE ever get that? Its so annoying that I dont want to take it up over 7k.
Thanks, Barb

I get a very distinct chain rattle at ~9k. Could that be what you're hearing? It's a very noisy buzzing sound, but I just ignore it. Depending on bike wear and how snug your fairing bolts are your bike could rattle at different RPMs. Just push through it to see if it goes away.

Also, if you have more than one key on your key ring and they're dangling down onto the head of your tree, they'll rattle and buzz (and scratch up your paint) at some frequencies. I started carrying my disc lock key on the same keyring as my bike's key, and suddenly a very high pitched, bell-like rattle started coming from the front of the bike. I couldn't figure out what it was until I looked down at the keys and saw one jingling around.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Cammotwin

Im a noob and I've been tooling around on my bald tire until I can get it replaced Tuesday. I've been in the 5-7k range and that's when I get a pretty annoying bumble-bee sound from the front end. ANYONE ever get that? Its so annoying that I dont want to take it up over 7k.
Thanks, Barb

Earplugs.

[illrational]

Originally Posted by mikecronis

I usually shift around 3 or 4 when in traffic (increases gas mileage since I can't get past the jam, no lane-splitting in Colorado). Gives me about Honda Civic acceleration and keeps the engine happy without bogging.

Riding normally with no traffic about 6k to 7k.

Racing around and/or playing: 10k to 12k, right around the peak Hp range.

Theory IS, if you can shift at lower rpms due to acceleration of traffic being slow then DO so. It saves wear-and-tear on your engine and improves gas mileage. There's no point holding your rpms at 10k rpm when traffic is going 20 mph.

I usually average 74-84 mpg.

get the hell out of here...im barely gettn 50 if that

[00NissanNinja]

If you want to get good gas millage shift at under 6k rpm just like in break in I got 70mpg doing the whole slow-mo break in thing. Now I redline it sometimes but typically shift when I'm riding calmly around 8-10k and with traffic 5-6k, that gives me 56 ish mpg.

[spooph]

gas mileage is directly proportional to how far you twist the throttle....

For instance, if you're commuting, and you twist the throttle only 1/4 of the way on accels, and keep it in the highest gear possible, stay at the limit, and accelerate as quickly as the cars around you, you should get around 70mpg +. I've done 84mpg as my personal best (that was 300mi to the tank and some to spare).

The best way to get BAD mileage is to bog the engine. Twisting the throttle far in a high gear (when the RPM's are low), will waste gas like nobody's business....

So, use that gear box. You gotta accelerate, drop a gear or two. Really gotta get outta dodge, drop 2 or 3 gears.

From a stop light/sign I usually gun it to the speed limit and quickly shift to top gear to cruise right around the limit during my commute. On the weekends I play Ricky racer. I have 15/44 gearing, and the ninja tend to pull best from 6,500 rpm's on up. Yours might be lower if you stock gearing.

Thus, if you're cruising on the freeway at 75mph +, the throttle has the pretty wide open to maintain that, so I get about 55mpg on the freeway... I get about a 60mpg as my general average.