August 1st, 2010, 08:21 PM | #1 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
Name: Trevor
Location: Barrie, Ontario
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Buzzing noise at lower rpms?
seems to be worst between 4-8k rpm. it sounds like it could be valvetrain noise to me, if I pull the clutch in and let the motor idle while moving it goes away, so it's def in the motor somewhere. it seems to be much worse when engine braking. I had the 1st service done last thursday and have since put another 500km on it, and it's getting more noticeable every time i go out.
is the valvetrain particularly noisy on these things, or should I be taking it in? this is my first bike, so i really don't know if it's normal or not. it's definitely not the gas tank whistle, I've heard that and I know this isn't the same thing. thanks guys |
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August 1st, 2010, 08:51 PM | #2 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
Name: Trevor
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exactly my thoughts. everything feels normal, lots of pull right to redline, no rough idling, etc.
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August 1st, 2010, 08:53 PM | #3 |
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Name: Amy
Location: Maine
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250 aka Vera Posts: 39
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I just noticed that the other day too! I live down a dirt road and was worried if the dust was starting to hurt my engine.. I'm glad its not just my bike, but it would be cool to know what it is
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August 1st, 2010, 09:03 PM | #4 |
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Name: W
Location: Austin, TX
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (sold), 2012 Tuono V4R Posts: 512
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I'm trying to remember, but if I recall correctly, the reason it's buzzing at those RPMs is because the bike's engine is resonating with certain parts of the fairing and windshield, which is exasperated by fairing screws not being quite tight enough.
You might want to try tightening the fairing screws another 1/4 turn to try to reduce the buzzing. Use kkim's DIY on fairing removal (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9933) to determine which screws you need to tighten (they're the same screws you use to remove the lower fairings). Also, make sure your engine mounting bolts are torqued correctly. You will have to remove the fairings to get most of them, but when I did my first maintenance, I found the bolts were undertorqued. This is another potential source of vibration. I had the same buzziness before I really tightened down those screws and bolts. I still get it a little bit, but it's not as bad.
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August 1st, 2010, 09:25 PM | #5 | |
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Name: Trevor
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Quote:
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August 1st, 2010, 10:22 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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is it a buzzing noise or clattering? valves don't buzz.
try holding the clutch lever and see if the buzzing noise goes away. |
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August 2nd, 2010, 07:29 AM | #7 |
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August 2nd, 2010, 02:19 PM | #8 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
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k, so i just went for about an hour's ride, and it's definitely not anything on the handlebars. it's the worst at 6k rpm, sounds like a buzz, like something loose. I'll take it apart later this week and make sure everything is torqued down properly.
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August 2nd, 2010, 03:40 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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does it buzz if you have the bike in neutral and rev it to 6k?
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August 2nd, 2010, 07:18 PM | #10 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
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August 2nd, 2010, 07:22 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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if it buzzes when in neutral, warm up the bike and rev it in your garage to isolate the source of the noise.
1-2 clunk is pretty normal, from my experience. |
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August 2nd, 2010, 07:24 PM | #12 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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Yeah its pretty clunky for me so I believe its normal, I think its just because of how the bike is geared the short 1st goes into a longer 2nd gear so the difference in ratios is large. Its kind of like an off road truck if you ever drove one, 1st is really short so its hard to get a really nice shift into 2nd (but a bike is easier).
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August 3rd, 2010, 05:54 AM | #13 |
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Name: Jason
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.
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You should also check this thread. That rubber piece was to blame for my buzz.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...g+rubber+piece
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August 3rd, 2010, 06:27 AM | #14 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
Name: Trevor
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thanks guys for the input, I'll be tearing it apart on the first rainy day to find this noise. I don't think it's that rubber piece, as I had the seat off yesterday and both were there, but I'll double check.
edit: on a side note, I just called the dealer, and he said that's the most common complaint they get about this particular bike, a vibration noise between 6 and 9k rpm, somewhere in the front end. he doesn't know what the problem part is tho, so I guess I'm still going hunting |
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August 3rd, 2010, 11:13 AM | #15 | |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Quote:
If you can, find the noise source with everything as is for now. |
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August 3rd, 2010, 06:54 PM | #16 |
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Name: Samer
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I started a thread about this a while back because I noticed a 6K resonance buzz. Since this post, I did the 600 mile service at the dealer and told him about the buzz. He said he rode it to check and it was completely normal. I think it is just an engine resonant frequency, assuming your symptoms are the same as mine. I'm at about 1600 miles now and I definitely don't notice it as much now. Don't know if it is perception or reality, but no worries. You're probably fine.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32225 |
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August 3rd, 2010, 10:40 PM | #17 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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Every gas powered car, motorcycle, truck, etc. will make that noise, every time you let it cool down. A matter of fact if you heat any type of machine to that degree of heat those noises will be created
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June 30th, 2015, 06:36 AM | #18 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
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My son was working on his project Ninja yesterday, and was trying to locate the buzzing/rattling sound he was getting around 6000 RPMs. This Ninja doesn't have fairings, so those parts are eliminated.
While holding the engine at 6000 he isolated the vibration to the front fender. The wire cover over the brake line and the fender itself on the right side at the back were creating the noise. Pushing on the fender in that area stopped it. This is a Pre Gen, but it may be worth a look. |
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