November 20th, 2010, 11:02 AM | #121 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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not true. with the petcock in the "on" position and the bowls drained, the carbs won't refill until vacuum is applied to the fuel petcock which happens when the bike is started. In essence, it is "off".
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November 20th, 2010, 11:55 AM | #122 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Wayne
Location: Brookfield, MA
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Quote:
Well, it has been a couple of years and I'm so ancient I forget what I had for breakfast lately. |
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November 20th, 2010, 12:29 PM | #123 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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November 22nd, 2010, 01:23 AM | #124 | |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
The other thing about moisture collecting in your oil is that it can happen easily if you use your vehicle for mostly short commutes. Your bike or car will not get hot enough to burn off the accumulated moisture and only circulate it through the engine. That is why it is generally recommended for these type of vehicles to keep their oil change intervals shorter. The moisture inside the oil shortens its lifespan or ability to operate efficiently compared to oil in a car or motorcycle that is used for longer commutes and has had the chance to heat up enough to burn off the moisture. Based on this same logic, that's why a lot of people don't recommend starting your motorcycle every once in a while over winter and just letting it idle for a few mins. As a personal rule of thumb with my car, I make sure at least once a week that I take it out for a good 30 minute drive with a couple of hard accelerations near red line to also help clear out some of the deposits in the system. Next year when I get a full season in with the Ninja, I'll be doing the same. |
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November 22nd, 2010, 01:46 AM | #125 |
Humble Observer
Name: Truong
Location: Augusta, Maine
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Yamaha XT250 Posts: 612
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A corollary for the temperate zones: ride right through winter, whenever the roads are clear. It also gives a valid excuse for oil changes at the beginning and end of winter.
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November 26th, 2010, 12:26 PM | #126 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jason
Location: Canada
Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 80
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Quote:
The Off setting is pretty self-explanatory -- it shuts off fuel from the tank to the carburetors, and is how you want to leave the bike if it's going to sit for a long time. On the Ninja 250, this is when the long side of the valve handle is pointing straight back. Above was taken from another site. Not sure about forum rules so I only quoted the content and did not link it. I live in Toronto, which does not differ from Siberia during winter. I bought my bike in June 2010 so I am only going to fill gas tank, drain bowls, place battery on tender, put plywood under the tires and put a blanket on it. I won't bother with the oil since the machine was barely used. Question: In light of the fuel petcock discussion. Setting it to OFF (according to the link) cuts off the supply from the tank to the carbs. Is this the way to go? |
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November 26th, 2010, 01:22 PM | #127 |
ninjette.org dude
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That's the point; there is no "OFF" setting for the new-gens. The quote from the other site is referring to the pregen (2007 and earlier) bikes that did in fact have an "OFF" setting due to a different petcock design.
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October 10th, 2011, 11:42 PM | #128 |
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Name: John
Location: Illinois
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): None yet, yet. Posts: A lot.
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How do you winterize your Ninjette?
Do you follow your owner manual by heart or do you do things differently?
For example, the owners manual says to empty the gas tank completely for winter storage, but others have told me not to do this. Instead, others top off the gas tank with a stabilizer, because if the gas tank is empty, moisture will build up and cause it to rust. Any particular brands you guys use? Oil, stabilizer, lube, etc? MOM also says to "spray" the motorcycle in certain places with oil to prevent rusting. I'm guessing that means WD40? |
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October 11th, 2011, 05:29 AM | #129 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bonnie
Location: Wilmington, MA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250 Posts: 132
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Id like to know this as well... This will be my first winter storing it in my shed and have no clue what the right thing to do is. Wondering about oil too. Do you change the oil before and then again in the spring or just spring??
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October 11th, 2011, 05:45 AM | #130 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 159
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I haven't stored it yet but here's my plan:
1. Fill the fuel tank from a gas can once I get to the final storage location. Add some stabilizer to it and shake it around a bit before sealing the cap. 2. Drain carbs so they don't clog up. 3. Put the bike up on front and rear stands. Not necessary if you don't have them or can't afford them. But I don't want to take the chance and have to buy new tires in spring because they flat spot. Also, you could avoid flat spotting by just moving the bike around in your garage over winter so that the bike doesn't sit on the same spot of the tires for more than a week or two at a time. 4. Cover with a bike cover to keep it clean and keep small animals from making a home in my exhaust/air box. 5. You could also spray a rag with WD-40 and wipe down any non-painted steel surfaces. Spring: 1. Oil Change |
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October 11th, 2011, 06:03 AM | #131 |
ninjette.org dude
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/threads merged
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October 11th, 2011, 01:11 PM | #132 | |
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Name: Dave
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Quote:
I would use a Silicone spray to protect those metal surfaces (Headers-Exhaust pipes, parts of the frame, unpainted nuts/bolts,etc) NOTHING goes on the brakes/rotors. No no! |
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October 11th, 2011, 07:56 PM | #133 |
ninjette.org member
Name: alex
Location: dallas
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 ninja 250r Posts: 20
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i just ride mine all winter. i've found it is the easiest type of winterizing
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October 11th, 2011, 08:58 PM | #134 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Here's how I stored mine last winter:
1. Filled up with fresh gas and put in correct amount of Marine Stabil. Rode around the neighbourhood to make sure the stabilizer got into the carbs. 2. Put in fresh oil and filter. Follow the normal DIY oil change guide found on this site. You can choose to do this in spring if you want but I choose to do in winter as there may be contaminants in the used oil that I don't want sitting in my engine all winter. If you change the oil now, it is not necessary to change it again in spring provided it still looks good and is free of moisture. 3. Put the battery on a tender. Don't forget this aspect or you'll find that you'll have a dead battery come spring. This seems to be a cause of many "Why doesn't my bike start?" posts. 4. Make sure tires are at recommended pressures. If you store it outside, it might be a good idea to fill it up with extra couple of PSI as tires lose pressure with lower ambient temperatures. You can place the bike on front and rear stands if you're worried about flat spots. I put square pieces of carpet underneath them and rolled the bike back and forth a couple of feet every few weeks. There were no flat spots in the spring. Pieces of wood will also work. 5. Cleaned and lubed the chain. 6. Stuffed the exhaust with a rag to keep out critters. Note that mothballs also work as a deterrent for mice and other small rodents. I did the bare minimum in my mind and my bike was fine in the spring. I had mine in an unheated garage. If you store it inside and choose to put a bike cover over it, make sure it's a vented one as condensation may be build up underneath since moisture in the air can't escape. That's a no-no. Notice I didn't drain the carbs. This will be an individual choice. Depends on what you feel comfortable with. If it's long-term storage, you should drain it. Mine was put away for about 3 1/2 months. Spraying metal parts and in the engine with fogging oil wouldn't be a bad idea also. Make sure not to get any on your tires or brakes. Another good recommend is lubing the clutch and throttle cables. |
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October 13th, 2011, 01:07 AM | #135 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Jon
Location: Usa
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Rumor is adding "Winter Air" to your tires can extend your driving season eliminating the need for "winterizing" your bike during the snowy season
Kaleco seasonal tire air - it's worth it http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=45 |
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October 13th, 2011, 12:05 PM | #136 |
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Kaleco has some good products. I use them almost exclusively.
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October 13th, 2011, 12:05 PM | #137 |
Russian Ninja :)
Name: Andrei
Location: Ocean City, MD
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Triumph Street Triple R, 2009 Yamaha FZ6, 2010 Kawi 250r (sold) Posts: 335
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Dont want to start a new thread unless I have to, hoping to get advice.
My first bike, and my first winter storage. I am a little intimidated with the idea of draining the carbs, so I was hoping to get away with just the following. 1. wash bike 2. change oil + filter, clean + lube chain 3. add marine stabil + seafoam to gas, and take a bike for a ride. 4. top off gas. 5. put it on stands. 6. put battery on tender. Would that be ok? Is it advised to add stabil + seafoam at the same time? Thanks!
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October 13th, 2011, 02:39 PM | #138 |
ninjette.org dude
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I would choose either stabil or seafoam, but not both. Also - more is not always better, use a reasonable amount for a 4.5 gallon gas tank.
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October 24th, 2011, 08:23 PM | #139 |
ninjette.org member
Name: TKO
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Join Date: Jan 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2011 Honda CBR600RR Posts: 50
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Has anyone tried draining the oil and leaveing it empty till spring then refilling it? Im wondering what would happen?
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October 24th, 2011, 08:37 PM | #140 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: Mississauga
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Personally I would leave the old oil and filter, and change it just before your first ride of the new season.
Leaving it dry probably wouldn't do anything, but if for any reason you had to get it started, and you forgot the oil was drained, you could do a lot of hurt to the engine. |
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October 24th, 2011, 09:02 PM | #141 | |
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Quote:
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October 25th, 2011, 04:02 AM | #142 | |
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Name: Sam
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Quote:
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October 25th, 2011, 11:11 AM | #143 |
1/4 English, 3/4 Kick Ass
Name: Jeremy
Location: Dayton, OH
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2002 Triumph Speed Triple 955i, '05 Suzuki SV650S(retired), '11 Ninja 250R(sold) Posts: A lot.
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I put my bike in a storage garage with no electricity in Savannah, GA. The winters here are highs in the 60's to lows down to the 30's. I will be leaving to Ohio mid-November and returning the first of January. I know I will raise the rear off the ground and put a plank of wood under the front. I'll do the premium gas with the stabil, lube the chain and a clean the bike and also put a cover over it.
Do you guys figure that should be enough for the short break I'm on? It's not like the 5 months that you other guys have. |
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October 25th, 2011, 08:50 PM | #144 | |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
If you store it in a garage, you don't really need a cover. If you insist on covering it, make sure it is a vented/breathable cover especially if the garage is not temperature/climate controlled. The mixture of warmer trapped air underneath the cover and cooler outside air can create condensation inside the cover and collects on the bike. You wouldn't want your bike sitting in that environment for 2 or 3 months. |
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October 25th, 2011, 08:54 PM | #145 | |
1/4 English, 3/4 Kick Ass
Name: Jeremy
Location: Dayton, OH
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Quote:
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October 26th, 2011, 09:08 AM | #146 | |
Russian Ninja :)
Name: Andrei
Location: Ocean City, MD
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Triumph Street Triple R, 2009 Yamaha FZ6, 2010 Kawi 250r (sold) Posts: 335
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Quote:
Sorry, what is NOVA? Nothern Virginia?
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October 31st, 2011, 03:20 PM | #147 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Ottawa
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Shell V-Power 91. No ethanol.
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October 31st, 2011, 03:38 PM | #148 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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October 31st, 2011, 04:25 PM | #149 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Ottawa
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October 31st, 2011, 05:26 PM | #150 |
never enough
Name: josh
Location: michigan
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 ninja 250R Posts: 277
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i keep my bike inside because i dont have a garage and dont want to fill my tank and smell gas in my house. is it still ok to not fill my tank and drain it? would it still be able to rust even inside my house with the tank drained?
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October 31st, 2011, 06:03 PM | #151 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Unless you get that tank bone dry, it's possible that rusting may still occur as the air inside your house still has oxygen. Obviously the process would be much slower than if you stored it outside so the risk is up to you.
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November 1st, 2011, 02:14 PM | #152 |
Bad-ass 250 racer
Name: Neal
Location: Minnesnowta
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r, ATK 605, Honda CR250R Posts: 91
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If you are going to completely drain the tank it'd be a good idea to spray the inside of it with some fogging oil to prevent rust.
One other thing is to make sure you have antifreeze in the cooling system. Mine is a race only bike that has water and water wetter in it for the summer so I have to make sure to drain and refill with antifreeze.
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November 1st, 2011, 05:32 PM | #153 |
never enough
Name: josh
Location: michigan
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2010 ninja 250R Posts: 277
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ok thanks guys, ill spray the tank with some fog. i just dont want my house smelling like gas.
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November 2nd, 2011, 02:20 PM | #154 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bob
Location: Centreville va
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Drain the carb float bowls.
If gas is left in them your pilot jets will be the first thing to clog. My buddy left his pregen sitting all winter and ran it here and there to keep it up. We still had to tear down the carbs come spring. Pilot jets are small and submerged in the fuel, so as the fuel slowly evaps it leaves residue that clogs the holes. It's one of those standard things. Bike sat for a while, now won't idle without choke. Check the pilots and viola, plugged holes. Bob |
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November 11th, 2011, 06:46 PM | #156 |
1/4 English, 3/4 Kick Ass
Name: Jeremy
Location: Dayton, OH
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2002 Triumph Speed Triple 955i, '05 Suzuki SV650S(retired), '11 Ninja 250R(sold) Posts: A lot.
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So if my new-gen is sitting for 6 weeks, will the tires and other stuff be ok if I can't put the bike on a rear stand? I don't have a car to take the stand to the storage facility, so is it vital? I maybe getting new tires a few months after I return from break.
I'm putting my bike into storage in South eastern Georgia, so not too cold. |
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November 11th, 2011, 07:01 PM | #157 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Put in fuel stabilizer any time your bike sits for more than a few weeks and fill up the tank to the top. Your tires should be fine. You can fill them up with a couple extra PSI and I'd recommend putting wood boards or pieces of carpet underneath the tires if the ground gets to freezing temperature. Old runner mats work good for this. If the temps drop below freezing inside the storage, you should take out your battery and leave it at home on a trickle or smart charger.
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November 12th, 2011, 04:46 PM | #158 |
User Title Free Since '12
Name: Floyd
Location: Barbados
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MOTM - Feb '12
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Revzilla Blog on How to Winterize Your Motorcycle
However, the very best way to winterize is too let it idle a bit before you ride it.
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November 28th, 2011, 02:35 PM | #159 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Canada
Location: Duncan, B.C. Canada
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Posts: 80
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I Live in BC, Canada. I will be storing my bike till April or May. Im debating if I should drain the carbs or not. I have a battery maintainer, Front and rear stands, bike cover, will be draining and filling the oil. Chain is lubed. Will add a fuel stabilizer and fill the tank. So far everyone has said if storing more than 3 months the carbs should be drained but then people have said draining the carbs can cause seals to dry up. Do you reccomend adding fuel stabilizer and running till im sure it hits the carbs or add fuel stabilizer and draining the carbs? Thanks
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November 28th, 2011, 02:37 PM | #160 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 1988 Honda Hawk NT650, 1989 Honda Hawk NT650, 1997 GSXR750 Track Bike Posts: 890
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I always run the stabilizer through for a couple minutes and then drain the carbs. If you've already got the fairings off for the oil change it's an easy thing to do.
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