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Old October 26th, 2011, 10:39 AM   #1
ejlover
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Lightbulb 4LEDs with Flasher Relay: 4way Front Flashing Problem

Greetings,

I've red the 4LED problems and DIYs but I still have some problems with my Blaster-X integrated taillight and Proton flush mounts.

I'm using customled integrated LED taillights (http://www.customled.com/products/in...ninja_250r.htm) with their LED flasher relay (http://www.customled.com/products/fl...sher_relay.htm). When I installed proton flushmount LED blinkers front signals(protons) flashes at the same time. While the back signals (in the integrated taillight) flashes correct side (but also the wrong side flashes dimly). Also the lamp on the gauge cluster flashes dimly. I tried to connect diodes on the front protons (orange cable) they changed nothing. I'll try to connect the load equalizers(resistors) the seller sent me now but I couldn't find instructions on how. Am I supposed to connect the load equalizerson the protons cables?

I don't want to unmount the front panel to connect the diode on the gauge cluster, because I don't think I can do it. It's beyond my capabilities.

Please help me with the load equalizers. If they will also fail will connecting diodes at the same time with the resistors work? If all fails what should I do? Connecting the original signals to the same cable of the protons and hiding the OEM signals somewhere will work?

Thanks for your time

Thanks,
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Old October 26th, 2011, 01:20 PM   #2
HKr1
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You can connect the resistors any where, front or back. Long as there +12 from the indicators on each side to ground.

Sounds like you need the diodes to the cluster indicator mod. thats better than the resistors.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 02:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKr1 View Post
You can connect the resistors any where, front or back. Long as there +12 from the indicators on each side to ground.

Sounds like you need the diodes to the cluster indicator mod. thats better than the resistors.
Resistor(load equilezer has two cables on each side (4cables for each resistor). I'll connect them as i tried to draw as seen below (sorry i'm on my mobile lol).

..........Orange.....................Red
........________................______
LED /...............\ resistor /............\ OEM socket
......\_________/............\_______/
......Black(ground)...............Black

Is this correct? (ignore the periods)

Do i need to add a diode on the orange cable?
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Old October 26th, 2011, 04:48 PM   #4
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Not sure about your little schematic.
Thought the +12 left was Green wire, and Rights were Gray.

http://greggscustoms.com/instruction...istor_Inst.pdf

Are your resistors like two in one, or they just put two wires on each end for the hell of it?

You can forget all about the didoes if your not touching that common indicator on the dash.
Doesnt that one dude on here sell a little kit for the diode mod. Doing right at the connectors without having to remove the cluster.

here ya go: Ninja 250R 2008-2011 No-Cut Diode kit

http://www.modmy250.com/LP.html
has diy on here too...
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Old October 26th, 2011, 10:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKr1 View Post
Not sure about your little schematic.
Thought the +12 left was Green wire, and Rights were Gray.

http://greggscustoms.com/instruction...istor_Inst.pdf

Are your resistors like two in one, or they just put two wires on each end for the hell of it?

You can forget all about the didoes if your not touching that common indicator on the dash.
Doesnt that one dude on here sell a little kit for the diode mod. Doing right at the connectors without having to remove the cluster.

here ya go: Ninja 250R 2008-2011 No-Cut Diode kit

http://www.modmy250.com/LP.html
has diy on here too...
There is a big black thing but i can't c the inside. It's heat isolated. But it has 1black and 1red cable on each side. Probably there are 2resistors in heat shield.

The schematic that you've given seemed that the resistor won't work. Because current selects the less resistive way so the resistor gets out of the equation.
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Old October 27th, 2011, 07:45 AM   #6
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2 Load Equalizers connected parallel to the front signals solved the problem Thanks.
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