March 16th, 2012, 03:49 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jesse
Location: Nash Co, NC
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r, of the blue variety (bestowed to Ninja_Duck22), 1998 CBR Smokin' Joe Posts: 58
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Bye Bye Rect-O-fier
Or something like that...
We had an issue a while back where the battery would die while riding. Never enough to kill the bike, but enough to not want to start back up. So we tested the 4 year old battery. It wasn't doing too well. We replaced it and went on our merry way. Fast forward a couple weeks and the battery is dead after a ride. I check voltage, it's reading 7v. I put it on the tender. I yank the fairings to test the Recto and the Alt, but I only got as far as the rectifier before I noticed that the connector that runs into the Recto has a fried wire. It's a yellow one. Positioned on the front right side of the connector. The connector is burnt through. I'll order a rectifier, if for nothing more than peace of mind. But the questions are as follows: If this is an alternator wire, would the alternator be shot? And with the connector melted at this port (exposes adjacent ports slightly), what are my options for repair? I REALLY don't want to replace the harness. |
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March 16th, 2012, 03:58 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Laurence
Location: Bangbuathong Thailand
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Green 2012 Ninja 250SE and a Yamaha fino scooter (my wife's really) Posts: 355
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If you are lucky you maybe able to find a replacement connector block (just the plastic part)
or even get one from a breakers yard
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Be safe ride smart .....a dumb rider is a dead rider |
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March 16th, 2012, 05:13 PM | #3 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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when i replaced my fried VRR, my connector block was also melted. i used terminal block connectors to replace it. my stator was fine. but i also had a fried crank position pickup coil and i had to replace that which comes as a single part stator+pickup coil. you probably dont need to replace it but its pretty quick to test the stator, just use an ohm meter across each of the 3 coil leads. testing one set at a time (ie- 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 1). if any of them are open / no connection, you know the stator is bad. oem stators are pretty expensive. you can pick up fine used ones from the wrecker or aftermarket stators from places like rickystator or electrosport.
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March 17th, 2012, 12:01 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jesse
Location: Nash Co, NC
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r, of the blue variety (bestowed to Ninja_Duck22), 1998 CBR Smokin' Joe Posts: 58
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Put the meter on the battery. At 5k revs, voltage changes very little, even dips slightly when held at 5k. So I checked the alternator output. Book calls for ~40vAC across the three yellows. "Output voltage much higher...the rectifier is damaged" says the book. Define "much higher." I'm reading ~50vAC. Is 25% high tooooooooo dang high?
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March 17th, 2012, 12:32 PM | #5 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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50vac is kinda high. the book should list resistance values also. check the resistance of each coil to make sure one is actually bad.
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March 17th, 2012, 12:37 PM | #6 |
Ambrosia.
Name: Jaymie
Location: Oahu, Hawaii
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 1974 Honda CB550K0 W.I.P. Posts: A lot.
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I always call it the rectal fire :3
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Life's better on the Mountain. |
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March 17th, 2012, 12:48 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jesse
Location: Nash Co, NC
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r, of the blue variety (bestowed to Ninja_Duck22), 1998 CBR Smokin' Joe Posts: 58
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book calls for 0.05 - 0.6 ohms, measuring across all yellows shows spot on 0.6.
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