November 9th, 2010, 06:55 PM | #81 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Jon
Location: Usa
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Yeah, most likely! But only if your using stock lights. Make sure you don't get ones that says "for use with LEDs only","LED flasher relay" or something along those lines, you will burn it out right away using stock lights.
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November 14th, 2010, 03:09 PM | #82 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brady
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ya i bought an electronic relay and installed it.
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March 4th, 2011, 02:21 PM | #83 |
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Name: Jerry
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did the relay fix the problem? i just did the diode mod, and it fixed the problem with all my signals flashing at the same time but now. I have the same problem where the front turn signals work but the rears stay solid.
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March 4th, 2011, 11:42 PM | #84 |
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I'm really confused now, how can the fronts and rears act different from each other, since they're driven by the same wire? Where did you put the diodes?
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March 5th, 2011, 09:21 AM | #85 |
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I had the same problem when I had leds in front and stock rears. Only the front will flash and back will stay solid on the same side the front is flashing on. When I switched the rears to leds then all my signals turned on. Then I did diode mod, and now its doing the same thing with the front working correct and the rear not blinking just staying solid.
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March 5th, 2011, 12:01 PM | #86 |
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Maybe I just need a new flasher relay since I still have the stock one in. Can someone give me a model number for one they used, that worked will all led signals. Also I need to know where the relay is so I can replace it... Thanks for the help.
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March 5th, 2011, 12:42 PM | #87 | |
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March 5th, 2011, 01:22 PM | #88 |
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Alright I ordered it. Thanks a lot I will let you know the outcome when I get it. Hopefully this fixes it.
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March 10th, 2011, 01:56 PM | #89 |
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Well I got that flasher from the link in the mail today installed it, and it all works perfectly now!!!!! That is so awesome Thanks for all the help.
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April 21st, 2011, 05:53 PM | #90 |
Hot Wheels
Name: Paul
Location: Niagara Falls
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The OP indicated that if you're cheap, you can make your own diode. How would one go about doing this? The picture of the diode in the link that the OP gave basically looks like 2 wires that come into one and one end. Is there way more to it?
I'm 100% 'special' when it comes to wiring, electronics, etc. etc. do you'll have to forgive my ignorance. |
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April 21st, 2011, 10:46 PM | #91 |
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May 1st, 2011, 05:58 PM | #92 |
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Name: Kevin
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So I did the diode mod exactly as the DIY shows, and grounded the diode to the Black and yellow ground wire. After I finished the install, I went to test everything, and all the turn signals work. But for some reason my headlights no longer work. There is no power going to the headlights at all, I used a volt meter to confirm this as well. The high beam indicator on the dash doesn't light up either. All the bulbs are still good and not burn out, and I've switched the headlight fuses as well. But I can't figure out what the problem is, HELP!
I forgot to add, I am not running HID's btw. I still have the stock original headlights. The are the same bulbs that came factory with the bike. |
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May 2nd, 2011, 06:56 AM | #93 |
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Gotta say since you didn't say either way, but the headlight only comes on when the engine is running, or at least cranks fast enough to latch the headlight power relay.
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September 15th, 2011, 12:23 AM | #94 | |
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Quote:
I was modding my bike the night I got it home last week, and having spent my last dime on bling instead of food I neglected to pick up a flasher relay or set up a diode. I figured I'd get it home first, rip it open and go to Jaycar if need be. Wanting to get the scooter rear off asap, after installing the bike monkey intergrated tail light, I kept the rear turn signals connected and put them under the seat cowl. Works like a charm. BUT. Dodgey as all fk for a long term solution given the 'not so weatherproof' nature of the rear of this bike, and I live by the mantra of if something is worth doing, it's worth doing properly. I just wanted to let whoever's interested know that this definately works - but it's a dodge-up |
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October 4th, 2011, 07:25 AM | #95 |
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so i've noticed since doing the diode. the indicator light on the assembly doesnt flash anymore. is this meant to happen?
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October 4th, 2011, 07:38 AM | #96 |
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Name: Joseph
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Mine still works with the diode mod. Maybe you have one or both of the diodes backwards.
Last futzed with by Vampyre; October 4th, 2011 at 09:20 AM. |
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October 4th, 2011, 08:48 AM | #97 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Good chance you didn't ground the extra wire.
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October 8th, 2011, 09:00 AM | #98 |
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I did this mod on my own on my last bike, but I'm thinking i might just get the plugNplay one if I get LED signals.
Thoughts? comments?
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March 28th, 2012, 04:12 PM | #99 |
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Name: Joshua
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I installed the diode kit onto the bulb in my dash. I have an electronic relay and went to test out to see if the turn signals worked.... Right side came on fine and everything was blinking at the same time. As soon as I switched over to the left side they all went out and I saw I figured out that I blew a fuse. Replaced the fuse and the same thing happened. What am I doing wrong?
Here are the LEDS I have: -Integrated tail light -Flush mount turn signals -Integrated turn signals on mirrors. All stock turn signals have been removed. Help!! |
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March 28th, 2012, 07:01 PM | #100 | |
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Quote:
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March 29th, 2012, 07:13 AM | #101 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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What relay do u have? How did you connect the mirror signals to your blinkers? Also sounds like you need to sand down your ground contact for the Diode kit.
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March 29th, 2012, 07:17 AM | #102 |
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Name: Joshua
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I have the Electronic Flasher Relay from customled.com made for the 250. It has the stock connectors on it. I was going to replace it today by picking one up from Autozone however I'm not sure which one I need.
The mirrors I connected to the flush mount signals via a Y-adapter. |
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March 29th, 2012, 02:54 PM | #103 |
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Get the tridon ep34. Run a ground wire on the E pin.
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October 16th, 2012, 09:35 PM | #104 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Looking at the wiring diagram, I understand why the diodes are needed: The power flows alternate directions through the dash indicatorfor each selection (left or right). The power coming out of the bulb has no way to find ground except through the other side's bulbs, which is why they light up a bit. What I don't understand is why they don't all light up even before being replaced with LEDs signals. The split to the dash indicator happens before it runs through the signals and, thus, power is not attenuated by incandescent bulbs before passing through it. It seems to me that all sides should light equally minus the small amount used by the dash indicator bulb for the unintended side. If the dash indicator were wired in line BEHIND both signals, I'd understand, but it isn't.
It looks like the pregen works the same way, so look at this diagram. My Clymer manual shows the same thing for the newgen. This may be a problem for me as I'm trying to work out a schematic using relays so that some auxiliary brake and running lights will only run when the blinkers AREN'T operating. |
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October 17th, 2012, 12:09 PM | #105 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kevin
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You are right, the unselected side, even with stock bulbs, does "light up" (pass current) by way of the dash bulb but the amount of current (because of the resistance of dash bulb) is so little that the F & R bulb filaments don't get hot enough to glow. Incandescent bulb filaments increase their resistance as they increase in temp so a non-glowing (cold) bulb filament acts as a piece of wire. This is not the case with efficient LED bulbs. The 3.7w dash bulb passes plenty of current to light up most LED signals.
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October 17th, 2012, 12:53 PM | #106 |
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October 17th, 2012, 08:23 PM | #107 | |
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If you guys are planning to replace your dash lights with LEDs, well, those are already diodes, so try this:
Put TWO LEDs in the turn signal dash indicator hole. Connect one to the left-signal wiring and the other to the right-signal wiring and ground both. I guess it's technically two birds with two stones, but doing the diode mod too would be three-plus stones. Quote:
Anyway, I think I've figured out how to wire in auxiliary brake and running lights and have the original ones shut off while the blinkers are active (useful for those with cheap integrated tail lights). If I wire a series of brake lights and a series of running lights I can then use a relay with a couple diodes to create a switched common ground after the first bulb in each set. Will this work? Will the power still light up the second light in each series when the turn signal triggered the relay to open a path to ground just before it? There is a voltage drop from the diodes. About the diagram: LTS = Left Turn Signals RTS = Right Turn Signals DI = Dash Indicator R = Running Light AR = Auxiliary Running Light B = Brake Light AB = Auxiliary Brake Light The switch at the top represents both brake light switches. The stock flasher relay needs to be replaced with a three-pole LED flasher relay (bottom one) so that the power going to it is constant when the turn signal signal switch selects a direction and stops when the selection is canceled. This will be the trigger for the second relay (top one). With a stock flasher this would be an intermittent trigger, which would only make the lights I want to kill for the duration flash instead. So, the top relay is triggered when the turn signals are flashing and makes a new ground for AB and AR before B and R. It's still connected to B and R, bt my understanding is that electricity takes the shortest path of least resistance. That said, the voltage drop across the diodes may mean it isn't the path of least resistance. Last futzed with by CZroe; October 18th, 2012 at 08:48 AM. |
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October 18th, 2012, 09:16 AM | #108 |
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First are all the lights going to be LED? A 3 terminal flasher (they really are not relays) will not give a constant output when activated, they still flash. You can use the flashing output with 2 diodes, a capacitor and relay to get a constant latched output but it would take a bit of engineering. You should still do the diode mod to the dash bulb first to get that problem out of the way before attempting any other mods to the circuit.
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October 18th, 2012, 09:29 AM | #109 | |
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Quote:
Yeah, a flasher relay isn't a relay in the sense that it is not an electrically triggered switch that activates another electrical switch, but you could say that even a thermal two-prong relay is a relay because it is an electrically triggered mechanical switch (heats up, breaks contact, cools down, makes contact). It's the same "electrical triggers mechanical" switch function only it's tied back to the same electrical trigger. |
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October 18th, 2012, 12:31 PM | #110 | |
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Power into your new flasher or the old flasher is constant when the key is on, it does not turn on/off with the turn signal switch. You can not power the flasher through the coil of your new relay as the coil resistance is too high. The only practical way to get a wire that turns hot when using the blinkers is after the switch and then you will need a pair of diodes so you can get the hot wire turning L or R. Wish I had more time but I'm putting a remote start in a CRV |
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October 18th, 2012, 05:30 PM | #111 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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October 18th, 2012, 05:52 PM | #112 |
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October 18th, 2012, 07:40 PM | #113 |
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Yeah, but that would happen inside the relay when it switch back just the same, right? Also, it would require a relay in each series.
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October 18th, 2012, 08:41 PM | #114 |
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Not sure tbh, I just know that when you jump a car, you get sparks if you connect the hot wires first, but you don't get sparks if you connect the ground wire first.
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October 18th, 2012, 10:10 PM | #115 | ||
ninjette.org member
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Quote:
Quote:
Here's a simple drawing of what you need. You will need a relay that has a higher coil resistance than your standard bosch-type automotive relay. And the capacitor will need to be 1000 to 2000uf / 16 to 50 VDC. I will do a little R & D and see what works. The relay will latch on whenever you call either turn signal. I'm still not clear exactly how you want the aux. lights to work but this should get you started. Attachment 21466 |
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October 19th, 2012, 06:15 AM | #116 | |
CPT Falcon
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Quote:
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October 19th, 2012, 07:31 AM | #117 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kevin
Location: MN Metro
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Not sure why the link did'n work. this may work better
turn sig relay.jpg |
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November 3rd, 2012, 06:53 AM | #118 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kevin
Location: MN Metro
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CZroe, I've found the parts that make it work if you're still thinking of doing the mod. I can give you Radio Shack part #'s or I could build it for you for a modest price. Let me know.
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June 14th, 2016, 10:26 AM | #119 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ty
Location: aurora,oh
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Please help me with the diode.
I have an 89 ninja 250. I installed L.E.D lights, the correct flasher relay and then I followed the instructions (to the letter) and made my diode. It didn't work. I thought maybe I had fried the diodes or something, so I re-did it. It still didn't work. So I did it again with stronger diodes. It still didn't work. So I undid the wiring back to normal and installed stock turn signals, and my turn signals work fine again. So I reinstalled the L.E.Ds and temporarily installed RESISTORS and it worked fine. So I retried making the diode a third time and it was a failure again. Can anyone help me with this ? I am no electrician but I know my way around motorcycle wiring. I am completely confused as to why this won't work for me when everyone is saying it worked fine for them.
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June 15th, 2016, 05:15 PM | #120 | |
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