February 19th, 2015, 09:17 AM | #1 |
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Name: Artie
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Wheel question!
Hi everyone,
I purchased a 4.5 inch rim a while back, and it's getting warm enough to where I want to get it all together to put on. The wheel is BARE! Nothing on it. My question is, what can I re-use from my old wheel, and what should I buy new? I'd assume wheel bearing is a given, but I'm unsure on the rest. Thanks in advance!
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February 19th, 2015, 11:05 AM | #2 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
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You could get away with reusing everything but you're just better off with new seals.
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February 20th, 2015, 06:41 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Artie
Location: Canada
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Well, bike has 15000km on them. Not sure if that matters for normal wear type stuff like bearings. I was thinking about getting an All Balls kit, thoughts?
More input would be appreciated.
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February 20th, 2015, 07:30 AM | #4 |
dirty boy
Name: Joe
Location: Johnstown, PA
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MOTM - Apr '14
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+1 on what Cuong said
Once you get everything apart you can do a quick inspection on the bearings, if they are well greased, no play, no rust then they are good to go! Replace seals as they will typically get a little boogered up removing them. Does the cush drive swap or does the new rim come with a cush drive? I use all ballz kits a good bit for my dirtbikes, nothing bad to say about them but the life expectancy of bearings on my dirty bikes are not very long so take it for what you will
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February 20th, 2015, 12:30 PM | #5 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Artie
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Quote:
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February 20th, 2015, 01:06 PM | #6 |
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Name: robert
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The all balls wheel bearing kits usually include new seals.
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February 20th, 2015, 01:32 PM | #7 |
dirty boy
Name: Joe
Location: Johnstown, PA
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you can get seals straight off any OEM Kawasaki parts website. just go to the rear wheel diagram or drive diagram one of the two and see how much they charge for seals, if they are expensive + shipping then it might pay to just get a bearing seal, kit
http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...ar-wheel-chain looks like ~$9.50 for 1 seal, x 2 $19 that's pretty steep. Bearing + seal kit will probably be $20-$30 at most well so much for buying just seals
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I love the smell of burning pre-mix in the morning I don't think I'm a lot dumber than you thought that I think that I thought I was once. |
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February 22nd, 2015, 03:09 PM | #8 |
Wannabe Reborn
Name: Unregistered
Location: Cincy Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): Blue 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 302
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I recommend running Kawasaki part numbers through Amazon...find a great many of OEM and aftermarket items on there, for next to nothing compared to retail pricing. Plus, group a couple of items together to meet the $35 or whatever amount and shipping is free.
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February 23rd, 2015, 08:33 AM | #9 |
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Great advice, thanks!
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February 27th, 2015, 11:04 AM | #10 |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
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http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD.../2012/EX250JCF
Get the All Balls bearings/seals kit ($16 on Amazon, you might consider doing the front too) and spend the $12 on an extra of the spacer collar that goes between them inside the wheel. Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old wheel and pull the bearings to get to the collar for the new wheel. If you buy a spare collar, you can install the new bearings in the new wheel without taking anything off the bike. Due to the bike's low mileage, I wasn't going to bother installing the third bearing in the kit into the cush drive, but I noticed that the OEM bearing was open, so I put in the AB sealed one. For me, it was worth a few bucks to buy new parts that I could install ahead of time, rather than having to swap stuff over after tearing apart my functional bike. And on a bike with more miles, you also won't know what condition those parts are in until you get in there. You'll probably need the bearings in for tire balancing too (one more thing that can only be done while your bike is down if you're swapping all the parts over). If you install the bearings/collar in the new wheel ahead of time, you can basically just pull the axle out, drop the wheel, remove the brake disc, pop the cush drive/sprocket out, replace its bearing, and put everything back together in reverse order.
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March 10th, 2015, 06:06 PM | #11 |
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Name: Steven
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Not to threadjack,
But I am going to powder coat my wheels this spring and was looking at what I would need to do besides bringing the wheel to the shop (disassembly wise)... Once take the wheel off, i believe there is a spacer on each side of the wheel (2 front + 2 in rear). Then there are 3 bearings in the rear and 2 in the front. I found the links to the all balls racing kit on amazon to replace the bearings all balls wheel bearing and seal kit 25-1444 (front) all balls wheel bearing and seal kit 25-1234 (rear) Total = $24.64 + free shipping Is there anything else that needs to be replaced? |
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March 11th, 2015, 09:50 AM | #12 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Artie
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Quote:
Either way, I ordered the AB kit. But shipping sucked, so I paid a lot more than yourself. Either way. Need to get this done asap! Edit: Also, I believe it was you who was having trouble finding valve stems that would fit your wheels. What did you end up with? I haven't even checked what type mine needs, I am hoping the more conventional one.
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March 11th, 2015, 04:24 PM | #13 | |||
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
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MOTM - Aug '15
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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March 12th, 2015, 05:42 AM | #14 | |
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Name: Artie
Location: Canada
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Quote:
I just want to get everything together so I can drop it off at a shop to have it all correctly installed and balanced. Since this is my first time doing this, I'd imagine I'd have to send them the sprocket and brake disc as well? Not entirely sure on that one. Sorry for the noobiness.
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March 12th, 2015, 06:00 AM | #15 |
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Name: ROB
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where did you get that wheel?
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March 12th, 2015, 11:14 AM | #16 | |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
92143-1416 COLLAR,RR HUB,L=111 It's basically just a metal tube that the axle goes through between the bearings. Here's the OEM part and the cheap version that came with my wheels. The first shop told me I needed to have the rotor installed (which would've been a big pain, since I was planning to just swap the stock rear rotor over), but the second shop did it with nothing more than the bearings installed in the wheels (and the collar between them, as a prerequisite for installing the bearings). So it seems to depend on what balancing machine the shop has. If you already have the bike apart, it's not a big deal either way, but if you're trying to get the new wheel ready to go before tearing into the bike, just call the shop and ask what they need.
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*** Unregistered, I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike. *** |
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March 13th, 2015, 05:12 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Artie
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I personally went through Sportisi USA, who were sold out at the time. I searched high and low though, until Sportisi USA agreed to get a single one from Indonesia for me.
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March 13th, 2015, 06:00 AM | #18 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Artie
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Quote:
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February 29th, 2016, 01:03 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steven
Location: MA
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Thread revival because search button
Is there a way to remove rear wheel without having to replace seals or anything? I'm just trying to remove the old plastidip from last season. Thanks |
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February 29th, 2016, 01:06 PM | #20 |
Vintage Screwball
Name: B
Location: Washington
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You don't have to replace seals or bearings to remove the rear wheel. Just pull the axle out and remove it.
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March 1st, 2016, 05:43 AM | #21 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Unless you have the tools to blind pull a cartridge bearing by the outer race, buy new bearings. Any bearing you pound the inside race of is garbage. You pit the races with the balls, making flat spots and pits. They will then wear.
Edit: oooops. Dates just woke up, sorry |
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March 3rd, 2016, 05:03 AM | #22 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steven
Location: MA
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March 3rd, 2016, 07:40 AM | #23 | |
Vintage Screwball
Name: B
Location: Washington
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Quote:
Replace the seals and bearings when they are worn out or damaged.
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March 12th, 2016, 06:17 PM | #24 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steven
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Is there anywhere to put jack / jack stands as opposed to a motorcycle stand when I remove the rear or front wheel?
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March 13th, 2016, 10:30 AM | #25 |
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Bottom of the engine. Take a block of wood, drill a 1" hole with a spade bit so the block of wood sits flat around the filter bolt, then cautiously jack the front wheel up by the engine. The engine is a structural member of the bike.
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March 23rd, 2016, 08:36 PM | #26 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steven
Location: MA
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Question... when putting the rear wheel back, does the caliper have a certain position that it needs to be in? For example, It looks like there is a thick groove on the bike and it looks to perfectly fit into the open groove on the caliper bracket. I'll try and get a picture later but when I reassembled the wheel, the caliper was sliding back and forth and wasn't grabbing. But then I noticed it probably has to go back into that "groove" so it locks in place but then I wasnt able to put the wheel back on.
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