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Old October 7th, 2014, 02:21 PM   #1
psykown
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Angry In the dog house!!!

First off I am lol so I was riding the other day about 70mph when I realized I wasn't maintaining speed, no prob switched to res. on the petcock clutch in starter a few times and was good.....or was it? I immediately noticed that with any more then an 1/4 nch of throttle or so she was stuttering like crazy.
Filled her up same thing, went to class, same thing
Over the weekend took the carbs apart checked and cleaned everything and it all looked perfect. While I was at it I added a third washer to the needle, (she was running a touch lean at full throttle around 10k)

Put everything back together in time to start her before school and all I got was 400rpm with full throttle and nothing but a slight rumble without.(choke was on)
I don't know what to do! How will I go more then a week without my baby?
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Old October 7th, 2014, 02:55 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by psykown View Post
First off I am lol so I was riding the other day about 70mph when I realized I wasn't maintaining speed, no prob switched to res. on the petcock clutch in starter a few times and was good.....or was it? I immediately noticed that with any more then an 1/4 nch of throttle or so she was stuttering like crazy.
Filled her up same thing, went to class, same thing
Over the weekend took the carbs apart checked and cleaned everything and it all looked perfect. While I was at it I added a third washer to the needle, (she was running a touch lean at full throttle around 10k)

Put everything back together in time to start her before school and all I got was 400rpm with full throttle and nothing but a slight rumble without.(choke was on)
I don't know what to do! How will I go more then a week without my baby?
First, the washers do nothing for the mixture at WOT - that's all Main Jet at that point. Adding washers (raising the needles) richens the mixture on the way up only.

Something isn't together right in the carb from the sound of it. Check the simple things like the idle speed screw and make sure the throttle is rotating the butterflies properly.

Did you remove the caps on the idle mixture screws and set them to 2 1/2 turns out?

If not, you'll probably get another shot at it.
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Old October 7th, 2014, 03:00 PM   #3
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I did and double checked all of them :/ the thing that bugs me is I only get it consistently turn over with almost full throttle and the choke on unless I loaded one of the spark plugs maybe ? Haven't had to take them out yet
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Old October 7th, 2014, 06:02 PM   #4
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I did put the carbs on facing the correct way as well lol
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Old October 7th, 2014, 06:37 PM   #5
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Here are what the plugs look like .
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Old October 7th, 2014, 06:38 PM   #6
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Another shot
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Old October 7th, 2014, 07:27 PM   #7
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I did and double checked all of them :/ the thing that bugs me is I only get it consistently turn over with almost full throttle and the choke on unless I loaded one of the spark plugs maybe ? Haven't had to take them out yet
What do you mean by "turn over"? Is it barely cranking? If so, check the battery voltage.

The battery should read 12.7V while sitting if it's fully charged. Then check it when you hit the starter - it should be 11V or more during cranking.

You may have a dead, or almost dead, battery. It will not run properly if the battery voltage is too low.

The plug on the right is showing a significantly rich mixture compared to the left one from what I can tell. Something isn't right in the carbs. I'd get a new set of plugs to make analyzing the mixture easier from here on.

What does the air filter look like? Open the drains on the floatbowls and catch the gas. Anything unusual?
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Old October 8th, 2014, 12:45 PM   #8
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I cleaned the spark plugs, as well as cleaned out the inline fuel filter. Charging battery as I write, all of that cranking yesterday took it's toll
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:06 PM   #9
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I cleaned the spark plugs, as well as cleaned out the inline fuel filter. Charging battery as I write, all of that cranking yesterday took it's toll
Was it dirty? I would open the floatbowl drains and see what comes out.
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:14 PM   #10
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It was clean fuel :/
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:15 PM   #11
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Yes in the inline filter there was some gunk but it looked like it had been there a loooong time and there wasn't any significant build up
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:15 PM   #12
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when you run low on gas stuff that normally floats around on top goes through the bottom and clogs things up. it sounds like your pilot jets are clogged. and it also sounds like you didnt' clean them correctly.

what did you poke the jets out with? did anything come out of them? were you able to clearly see through them after?
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:20 PM   #13
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I read you turned it on to reserve. Not that you turned it back?
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:21 PM   #14
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I was able to see clearly through all of the orifices in the carb and yes I tried switching the petcock to on again
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Old October 8th, 2014, 01:23 PM   #15
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Also the oil is way low, I just did an oil change not to long ago. Any chance that may be an influence? No visible leakage on the outside of the bike
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Old October 8th, 2014, 06:57 PM   #16
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I was able to see clearly through all of the orifices in the carb and yes I tried switching the petcock to on again
That's not a good test. The jets need to be cleaned carefully with a fine wire and carb cleaner to be sure they are completely open.

Everything (jets, holders, mixture adjustment screws, etc) need to be taken out and all passages and circuits need to be cleaned.

Soaking and careful cleaning (ultrasonic is the best) is usually required to make sure it's completely free of deposits.

Read through this - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...n_the_carbs%3F
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Old October 8th, 2014, 10:13 PM   #17
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Hmmm...

First, get some new plugs to take them out of the troubleshooting equation and looks as if you need a carb sync, also... when was the last valve service? Lemme think on the rest.

I think I understand what you mean when you say you can see through them, that is how I would describe it too. If you can hold the jet in your fingers and point it to a light and see through it... it's clear. Thing is, carbs are a bit more complex than cleaning jets only, as their are many passages for air and gas in the carb body that need to be addressed.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 07:26 AM   #18
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Hmmm...

First, get some new plugs to take them out of the troubleshooting equation and looks as if you need a carb sync, also... when was the last valve service? Lemme think on the rest.

I think I understand what you mean when you say you can see through them, that is how I would describe it too. If you can hold the jet in your fingers and point it to a light and see through it... it's clear. Thing is, carbs are a bit more complex than cleaning jets only, as their are many passages for air and gas in the carb body that need to be addressed.
I've had cases where that's not true.

That's why I recommend cleaning with a soft wire and carb cleaner. Run the wire through the jet and spin it around while occasionally spraying with cleaner.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 07:34 AM   #19
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Jay, I think you are underestimating the "common sense" terminology & judgement of the southern interpretation of vision.

After cleaning it, normally with a guitar string and spray, I hold a jet to the sky... If I see light through a perfect little circle, I move on to the next one. And by next one, I mean hole. Some jets have holes on the sides too. Not rocket science here...

I think we are in agreement, I am just reading between the lines of the OP's comments and going with my gut.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 07:43 AM   #20
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Jay, I think you are underestimating the "common sense" terminology & judgement of the southern interpretation of vision.

After cleaning it, normally with a guitar string and spray, I hold a jet to the sky... If I see light through a perfect little circle, I move on to the next one. And by next one, I mean hole. Some jets have holes on the sides too. Not rocket science here...

I think we are in agreement, I am just reading between the lines of the OP's comments and going with my gut.
Maybe, but I just wanted to make it clear that if you pull a jet out and can see light it doesn't mean it might not be partially plugged.

I'm just envisioning someone looking through it, seeing light, and putting it back in thinking it's fine.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 07:48 AM   #21
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^^^ yep
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Old October 9th, 2014, 01:14 PM   #22
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I get what you guys mean that was what I meant by cleaning the holes, all were completely spear of gunk.

As for the valves previous owner said he did them but that was 7k miles or so now. No obvious tapping or ticking when she was running last ( I believe that is the main way of knowing they are off with ought visually checking)

Spark plugs will get picked up(or ordered) after class tonight can a carb sync be done with ought the engine running?
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Old October 10th, 2014, 10:54 AM   #23
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She lives!!! I got he started today with no idea what was wrong initially :/ the only thing that I noticed was, I believe I put one of the boots to the engine on in reverse.

Also with the choke on she doesn't want to start but turn it off and she fires right up, this means the mixture is to rich correct?
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:15 AM   #24
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Also with the choke on she doesn't want to start but turn it off and she fires right up, this means the mixture is to rich correct?
With mine, it depends on the temperature. From late spring to early fall, it doesn't require any choke to start. But once it gets progressively colder, it takes a varying amount of choke to get the engine running.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:45 AM   #25
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Hmm I didn't realize that was normal (ish?) for out ninjas mine had always needed choke at least for a a mile or so before she was happy.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 01:16 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by psykown View Post
She lives!!! I got he started today with no idea what was wrong initially :/ the only thing that I noticed was, I believe I put one of the boots to the engine on in reverse.

Also with the choke on she doesn't want to start but turn it off and she fires right up, this means the mixture is to rich correct?
Chances are.

What are the idle mixture screws set at?

I'd remove 1 shim if you have 3 in it.

One way to adjust the idle mixture screws to the correct setting is to warm the engine completely, then adjust both in 1/2 turn increments until you get the highest idle speed. From there go slightly richer (maybe 1/8 turn out or so). The idle will drop down slightly when you do that, but use the idle speed adjustment to get it back to 1300.

The carbs should also be synced.

I'm still not sure why one of the plugs was showing a significantly richer mixture than the other, but I would check them again shortly to see if they are still different.

If they are you have more troubleshooting to do.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 01:39 PM   #27
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I actually removed two shims and it does feel better, that being said when given throttle and then rolling off quickly she hangs at about 4700 and then slowly eases down to around 2000 after she gets below 2000 there is no keeping her from dying.

I know a guy that can sync the carbs well so later next week that will be taken care of.

When I took the spacers out it helped a ton with the start up. She will start without choke but it was more inline with how it used to start
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Old October 10th, 2014, 01:39 PM   #28
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Slowly getting closer! Thanks a ton for the help everyone I would definitely be lost without you guys!
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Old October 10th, 2014, 02:34 PM   #29
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I would check for a vacuum leak.

Have the engine warm and idling. Spray a moderate amount of carb cleaner around where the boots attach to the carb and the engine and listen for a change in RPMs.
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