2002 GSXR caliper mounted

[SV Racing Parts]

There are two choices on 4 Piston Calipers to use with our bikes; First; The Nissin 4 Piston Calipers from the Honda CBR600 F4 - F4i All Model Years 1999 to 2006, the CBR 929 – CBR 954 Model Years 2000 – 2003, or the CBR 600RR Model Years 2003 -2004 or the Honda RC-51 years 2001 and up. The Nissin Calipers have 1mm larger pistons for a braking advantage. These are the calipers I use on my bikes.

Or; The Tokico 4 Piston Calipers from the GSXR 600 2001 - 2003, GSXR 750 2000 - 2003 and All Model Years of the SV1000, these are all the same Tokico Calipers,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

[Somchai]

@SV Racing Parts
Blair, maybe you could think about the famous Brembo calipers also (just as thinking a little bit louder).
But anyway I wish you a good business

[SV Racing Parts]

One step at a time, I will be working on the alternatives once we see how well these are accepted, My experience on other bikes that I produce these Caliper Adapter Brackets for is that that they work very well and especially when combined with our SS Line offerings and Nissin Radial Master Cylinder offering on the website,

SV Racing Parts has some very nice braking solutions,

BTW, I am also close to releasing our high strength 415 Chain and Sprockets Combinations as well,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

[subxero]

looks like a nice product, unfortunately i think you might just a hair late on it here though. I'm sure you will make some sales though

You'll probably do ok with it on that other ninja website.

I like the back plate that the bolts screw into

Originally Posted by Somchai

@SV Racing Parts
Blair, maybe you could think about the famous Brembo calipers also (just as thinking a little bit louder).
But anyway I wish you a good business

Judging by how things with the brembo adapter have gone here, i would not advise it, seems like a waste. It would appear most people would rather save $100 or more on the caliper and go with the tokico or nissin. calipers vs the brembo, but then again the adapter available through Jay for the brembo is also for a larger rotor so what do i know?

[micoulisninja]

Originally Posted by old3

Support a company who is willing to support us! The SV Racing Ninjette rear sets are awesome too. I'm trying to convince him to build us a fork brace next!

http://www.svracingparts.com/

I know it took a long time to come, but this is a nice piece and if the market is there, I'm betting we see more Ninjette stuff from Blair.

(fork brace--fork brace--fork brace--fork brace)

I'm definetely in for that... no more chattering !!!
fork brace--fork brace--fork brace

[SV Racing Parts]

The Back Plate is an awesome addition to the complete Brake Caliper Adapter Brackets.

These are excellent parts that will serve Ninja Riders well,

Best regards,
Blair

[old3]

I'm on a 320 and 6p Tokico, so my son gets this lil gem.



Nice piece Blair. Far nicer than my original aluminum brick!

[SV Racing Parts]

Thanks for the image and for the kudos Jim, I appreciate it.

Best regards,
Blair

[old3]

Quick note, Blair is already working on it. The two short bolts in the kit are incorrect. You can use the stock bolts in the rear position and it is fine. Looks like someone eyeballed the wrong end for the caliper mount as the 20mm bolts would be perfect if that was where it went.

[old3]

I started breaking in the pads for my son, all I can say is SHAME on Kawi for not using a 4 piston caliper on these bikes. What a difference!

[SV Racing Parts]

Hi Jim, All Kits will ship with the correct, bolts only 3 went out with the short bolts and you are right at looking at the wrong end,

All others will be swapped before shipping in the morning,

Everyone will get exactly what they need,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

[SV Racing Parts]

Originally Posted by subxero

.......
You'll probably do ok with it on that other ninja website.

I like the back plate that the bolts screw into .....

What is the other Ninja website that you mention?

Best regards,
Blair

[subxero]

Originally Posted by SV Racing Parts

What is the other Ninja website that you mention?

Best regards,
Blair

those which we shall not mention

j/k the 300 one, what is it? agh here

http://www.kawasa***************

[howlinhoss]

Hey All,

Got my SV Racing Nissin/Tokico Adapter and installed it last night.

The adapter kit includes the adapter, back plate, 2 caliper bolts, and 2 mounting bolts. All bolts came in the correct size. I am running the adapter with a Nissin caliper. The install took 10 minutes and everything fit perfectly. The back plate really makes the install a breeze. No fumbling around with nuts between the mount and rotor.

Only issue I had was my Spiegler lines were alittle short so I had to remove the bottom mount. I want to remount the line there so I will run to the store and see if I can find something to extend the mount 1-2 inches.

Took it for a test ride and the increased braking power and feel is great. I think if I rebuilt my caliper before mounting it it might feel better but I will save that for a winter project.

One thing I am thinking about is possibly getting a Nissin 14mm Front Brake Master Cylinder, rebuilding a Ninja 650 MC, FZ07 or FZ09 stock 15mm MC, or rebuilding a 03-04 ZX6r 16mm/04-05 ZX10r 16mm MC. Still need to decide on which one I want to pair my caliper with.

Here are the pics.

[SV Racing Parts]

They look Awesome Jose,

Best regards,
Blair

[JohnnyBravo]

That looks sweet... If it wouldn't flip me over on my head I'd buy one; baby steps

SV have the sprockets and chains out yet... These 415's

[SV Racing Parts]

Hey Johnny, it won't flip you over the bars or onto your head, what it will do is give you great brake modulation and control and awesomely upgraded controlled stopping power,

Let me know whenever you are ready,

415 Chain is here in stock. Sprockets are being prepared for production,

I am thinking of doing 15 - 16 - 17 as the front sizes, any thoughts on sizes to run, Front and Rear?

Best regards,
Blair

[Bubba]

I've been following this thread and I have seen this type of mod before on other bikes. My concerns are that the original brakes are designed by professional engineers and have been exhaustively tested for safety, including long term safety with anticipated corrosion and material fatigue. Brake pad pressure is not always a "more is better" situation and has to be balanced with the understanding of front tire limits, fork forces, etc.

Stronger calipers mean more force, and that force is transduced to the fork lugs, which are not designed for more force than the spec caliper, which is then transduced to the fork tubes, head, frame, etc. etc.
The brakes are designed for novice riders, to prevent locking on a panic grab.

In Europe, any modification like this has to be strictly CE tested or it is not allowed at all legally. I will assume that none of these brackets have been tested for shear, temperature warp, or fail point., with repetitive testing for material fatigue. Even with all this in place by OEM, failures still do happen, and recalls are issued.

To each his own risk, but be aware what you getting into. I'll quote Kevin Cameron on modding bikes in big ways when what you really should be doing is buying a different bike. Just a caveat.

[SV Racing Parts]

Hi Bubba, I have shipped over 8,000 sets of these Brake Caliper Adapter Brackets to Riders and Racers world wide over the past 10 years and have never seen or heard of anything but an immediate improvement over brake control and stopping power.

If the increase in Brake Power was enough to overpower and create catastrophic failure in the immediately adjacent parts like fork lugs then the initial engineering for the OEM bike manufacturers would have to be a lot lower than it actually is. These brackets simply place a new caliper where the current one fit and most of the load goes. BTW: This same principle is used to mount Upgraded Calipers onto Car Rotors as well where the loads are significantly greater,

The caveat is good, but you can be sure many many riders have safely been using the upgrades for years without any incident at all,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by howlinhoss

Hey All,

Got my SV Racing Nissin/Tokico Adapter and installed it last night.

The adapter kit includes the adapter, back plate, 2 caliper bolts, and 2 mounting bolts. All bolts came in the correct size. I am running the adapter with a Nissin caliper. The install took 10 minutes and everything fit perfectly. The back plate really makes the install a breeze. No fumbling around with nuts between the mount and rotor.

Only issue I had was my Spiegler lines were alittle short so I had to remove the bottom mount. I want to remount the line there so I will run to the store and see if I can find something to extend the mount 1-2 inches.

Took it for a test ride and the increased braking power and feel is great. I think if I rebuilt my caliper before mounting it it might feel better but I will save that for a winter project.

One thing I am thinking about is possibly getting a Nissin 14mm Front Brake Master Cylinder, rebuilding a Ninja 650 MC, FZ07 or FZ09 stock 15mm MC, or rebuilding a 03-04 ZX6r 16mm/04-05 ZX10r 16mm MC. Still need to decide on which one I want to pair my caliper with.

Here are the pics.

Curious to know about your all-green bodywork. The lower fairing looks painted, but what about the rest? Kawasaki only just recently announced the all-green 2015 model.

[SV Racing Parts]

Hi everyone, I am stocking the Galfer SS Front Brake Line Kits for our bikes and can ship them with the SV Racing Parts, 4 Piston Brake Caliper Adapter Brackets and other parts you need at the same time,

Check it all out under For Ninja Riders on the website at www.svracingparts.com

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

[howlinhoss]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Curious to know about your all-green bodywork. The lower fairing looks painted, but what about the rest? Kawasaki only just recently announced the all-green 2015 model.

Started out as a 2013 SE Edition. First owner took off the SE decals, which left the bike with a green tail, nose, and belly. Didnt like how this looked so I had my buddy paint all the black fairings for me. Paint doesnt 100% match but it is close enough.

[JohnnyBravo]

Originally Posted by howlinhoss

Started out as a 2013 SE Edition. First owner took off the SE decals, which left the bike with a green tail, nose, and belly. Didnt like how this looked so I had my buddy paint all the black fairings for me. Paint doesnt 100% match but it is close enough.

Your bike looks hella sick!!!

[ratlab]

Originally Posted by subxero

looks like a nice product, unfortunately i think you might just a hair late on it here though. I'm sure you will make some sales though

You'll probably do ok with it on that other ninja website.

I like the back plate that the bolts screw into



Judging by how things with the brembo adapter have gone here, i would not advise it, seems like a waste. It would appear most people would rather save $100 or more on the caliper and go with the tokico or nissin. calipers vs the brembo, but then again the adapter available through Jay for the brembo is also for a larger rotor so what do i know?

the nissin caliper off the 2003-4 cbr600rr is no joke-imo it's the equal of the brembo.best non radial calipers i have ever used.that caliper with a vesrah rjl pad would be very good.

[broken neck]

So,

I've just replace my front OEM caliper with a Tokiko 4 pistons, replaced the stock OEM rubber hose with a stainless steel one and changed the brake fluid with Del Ray Dot 4. I also put new pads in there, HH ones and I've rebuilt the caliper with new seals.

By the way, I use some pazzo levers.

Before, with the OEM setup, my brake lever was set at "2" and I wasn't able to put the lever to the grip.

Now with the new set up, at "2" I can put the lever to the grip, at the position "6", I can almost reach the grip with the lever.

So, is it normal that the travel is longer with the Ninja 250 stock master cylinder or is it me that did something wrong setting up the new caliper, hose and fluid replacement?

And the feeling is somewhat mushy I would say. We bled the caliper several time to be sure there is no bubble in there. Will it get firmer with time?

Is there something I over looked or is it just normal?

As usual thanks for your input.

[tfkrocks]

@broken neck, You can bleed at the master cylinder similar to the way you bleed at the caliper. No special parts needed.

Loosen the banjo bolt, squeeze lever, tighten banjo bolt, release lever. Just make sure to have towels ready at the banjo bolt because there's no nice way to catch the brake fluid and it will be messy.

If it's still spongy even after all that, ziptie the brake lever down overnight. It helps some people.

[Somchai]

@broken neck there are two things that you should do:
- push the pistons in the caliper complete back, since there could be bubbles which won't go out with normal bleeding
- take a light screwdriver and slightly knock the complete stainless hose since it is a real job to get all the air complete out of it and knocking the line will make the bubbles going high into the reservoir.
Then bleed until you don't see no more bubbles.
Good luck

[Alex]

/posts deleted for spam/posting in wrong section

[broken neck]

Thanks for your advice, I followed the proper step.

I guess, I still have to get the air out of the system.

I'll start by tapping the lines, then bleeding the master cylinder again.

After that, I'll bleed the caliper, but do I still have to push the pistons even If I started with them completely in when I rebuilt it?

[Rassie]

Originally Posted by broken neck

Thanks for your advice, I followed the proper step.

I guess, I still have to get the air out of the system.

I'll start by tapping the lines, then bleeding the master cylinder again.

After that, I'll bleed the caliper, but do I still have to push the pistons even If I started with them completely in when I rebuilt it?

What Alex said, however with the 4 piston caliper you have more volume so if you run the numbers you will have more lever travel. It should however not go all the way to the handlebar. I have 2 bikes with these calipers running stock masters and they are both the same. They have more travel but also more bite.

[broken neck]

Originally Posted by tfkrocks

If it's still spongy even after all that, ziptie the brake lever down overnight. It helps some people.

In my case it helped quite a bit, I went from position "6" to position "4" this morning after the ziptie method...

I'll find some time for some more bleeding..

Maybe the pads "bedding" helps too.

[broken neck]

Well,

I'm back with another round of potential problems.

Yesterday, I went for a long ride (250-300 km) under the rain (sometime heavy sometime just a drizzle).

From time to time, when I was applying the front brake, I could hear and feel what I would describe like a shudder. It happened mostly on initial contact, if I release the pressure and reapply it immediately, the shudder would stop and the "right feel" of braking would be back. It could passe a dozen of brake application before the shudder came back.

Would you have any ideas what could be the problem?

Thanks,

Back home I'll take off the caliper to see if I couldn't see anything strange.

[SV Racing Parts]

Check to make sure you do not have a warp in your rotor.

[csmith12]

^^^ start there

Lube the slides in the caliper and check for glazing/rebed pads. Brake noise is one of the easiest things to get rid off.

[csmith12]

Lol... I even washed my A* leathers for this event. I tried something new and put them in the washing machine, instead of just dunking them. Either I f'ed up or I will be ok, we will see but they were due and pretty dank.

Hope the mink oil softens them up right like it always has done.

Either way, I am good. I got my S&S suit as a backup.

[broken neck]

So,

With your advises, I've started troubleshooting the "shudder/noise/vibration".

First up the rotor, straight as an arrow.

Next, looked at the sliding retaining pin. It was a bit dirty, so I cleaned it.

Moved on to the brake pads. I think the problem came from there. Since they aren't designed for a small rotor like the one on the Ninja 250, the pads aren't sweeping the rotor completely, the outside edge isn't touching the rotor, so as pad wear occurs, that portion of the pad remains untouched so an edge forms and might contacts the outer edge of the rotor causing my problems.

So I used a sandpaper to bring the entire pad to the same thickness, cleaned everything and reassembled the caliper.

On my morning commute, no more sound/vibration/shudder. I'll see on my way home tonight they announced some rain...

So thanks for your advises.

[subxero]

Originally Posted by broken neck

So,

With your advises, I've started troubleshooting the "shudder/noise/vibration".

First up the rotor, straight as an arrow.

Next, looked at the sliding retaining pin. It was a bit dirty, so I cleaned it.

Moved on to the brake pads. I think the problem came from there. Since they aren't designed for a small rotor like the one on the Ninja 250, the pads aren't sweeping the rotor completely, the outside edge isn't touching the rotor, so as pad wear occurs, that portion of the pad remains untouched so an edge forms and might contacts the outer edge of the rotor causing my problems.

So I used a sandpaper to bring the entire pad to the same thickness, cleaned everything and reassembled the caliper.

On my morning commute, no more sound/vibration/shudder. I'll see on my way home tonight they announced some rain...

So thanks for your advises.

This is a serious problem, it has been brought up before in threads like this if not this very one. Make sure you keep up on removing that bit of the pad that is not getting worn. If left alone for quite some time, this part of each pad could stick out quite a bit and contact the other side preventing the brakes from squeezing the rotor as well as they should and in worst case not squeeze the rotor at all.

[choneofakind]

^^that's the only reason I've not taken the time to fiddle with caliper relocating plates and custom rotors. Don't want to deal with that exact problem and/or go through multiple iterations to get that perfected.

[Somchai]

Thomas you need a brake rotor that fits.
I had the same problem and got a rotor with 296 mm made, so now everything's ok.