Some questions you guys might be able to answer

[waynemc]

I purchased a used 2013 cbr250 repsol with 7500 miles on it. What things do I need to buy to address now, and what things do I need to buy to address later?

Meaning; I'll probably need to clean the chain right now. What products should I buy to clean the chain? Clean it, and lube it and everything? Also, he said he did the oil at around 6000 miles. Do I trust it? Is there a way to tell if its any good? Should I change it anyways? What other maintenance things should I do as well other than the chain and the oil, considering my mileage?

For upshifting and downshifting, I'm not sure if I'm doing it properly. When I upshift, I completely let go of the throttle momentarily, hold the clutch in, shift up, then I quickly sort of throttle back up to where my rpm's were previously, while increasing the throttle and slowly letting out the clutch. My shifts are smooth, but am I supposed to be completely letting go of the throttle or should I just slightly lower my revs? Do I need to lower them at all or can I just hold the throttle when upshifting and slowly increase while slipping the clutch?

For downshifting, I don't really do it often while moving because I don't really know the rpm's too well, but usually I just hold the clutch and shift straight to 1 or 2 when coming to a stop/slowing down.

What things should I never do that might damage my engine/transmission?

How should I warm my bike up? Usually I let it sit and idle until my digital display shows 1/3 operating temperature bars

Any other general hints/helpful things appreciated, thank you.

[RacinNinja]

Here's what I do when I buy a new, used bike. It's a long list. Sorry.

Flush and replace coolant
Flush and replace brake fluid
Oil change
Spark plugs
Air filter (if it needs it)
Valve check
Lube cables
Clean chain with WD-40 and a brush, hose it off, go for a short 10 minute ride to dry the chain and heat it up, lube it.
Inspect tires
Inspect sprockets
Inspect forks for leaks
Check fuel overflow tubes
I also typically remove all the fairings and look for any bodge jobs the previous owner did or anything out of the ordinary

Basically go over the whole thing with a fine toothed comb. It's my ride and my life on the line. I don't trust anyone elses work.

[Flying]

-Change the oil
-Clean and oil the air filter
-Lube cables
-Clean chain w/ kerosene (paraffin) if you can. If you don't have that on hand, clean w/ used motor oil. Wipe off and you're good. < There will be all sorts of answers for cleaning chains. Find a way to keep it lubed w/ no grit. End Story.
-Tire pressure: A bike pump works fine.
-Check the color of the brake fluid!

To Upshift: You let go of the throttle completely and shift up at the same time. You shouldn't have to let the clutch out slowly. Try this, put a little pressure on the shift lever before you close the thottle and shift, you'll get the feel. The clutch is there to control power output, you're taught to let it out slowly because you haven't quite learned the movements yet. Holding the throttle open while shifting will give you a nice surprise (don't do it).

To downshift: Clutch in > down 1 gear > clutch out steadily > repeat until you get to the speed you want to be at

Going down to 1-2 from high speed is manageable, but is generally a recipe for locking up the rear wheel. You generally want to match the gear w/ the speed you're going at NOW. You'll eventually want to learn how to rev-match, but take it slow first.

Warm the bike up by riding it while being easy on the revs. Putting LOAD on the engine will warm it up to temp faster without hurting it.

If you're new to bikes, you will stall it in the middle of the road and look dumb. Just keep that in mind.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeLkrPkjimo

[jkv45]

Something doesn't seem right here - didn't you buy a Ninja 300? (https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275529)

This exact post is also here - http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-s...le-answer.html

[CaliGrrl]

Downshifting takes some practice. I tend to go one gear at a time, to keep the speeds/RPMs manageable. I could probably go 2 at a time if I'm careful. I let the clutch out relatively carefully when downshifting, as well as blip the throttle just a touch to match the RPMs.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by waynemc

......... Any other general hints/helpful things appreciated, thank you.

This will help you:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Rid...ht_a_Ninja_250

What is your riding experience?

[JohnnyBravo]

I almost got a repsol team green

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Something doesn't seem right here - didn't you buy a Ninja 300? (https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275529)

This exact post is also here - http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-s...le-answer.html

[waynemc]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Something doesn't seem right here - didn't you buy a Ninja 300? (https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275529)

This exact post is also here - http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-s...le-answer.html

I don't have the 300 anymore, and yes I know I posted it there as well.

[InvisiBill]

Take the MSF Basic RiderCourse (or something similar). You're asking for instruction on the basic operation of a bike, which indicates that there are a lot of other things you'll need instruction on as well.

If you value your bike and your health, don't try to wing this from internet posts.

[VaFish]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Take the MSF Basic RiderCourse (or something similar). You're asking for instruction on the basic operation of a bike, which indicates that there are a lot of other things you'll need instruction on as well.

If you value your bike and your health, don't try to wing this from internet posts.

That was going to be my suggestion too.

[Chief249cc]

Hello forum world I have a 2004 ninja 250 that is carbonated and was wondering if at all possible to turbo charge a 04 ninja 250.
And be for you ask why?? Because I want to

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Chief249cc

Hello forum world I have a 2004 ninja 250 that is carbonated and was wondering if at all possible to turbo charge a 04 ninja 250.
And be for you ask why?? Because I want to

You want to add a little more fizz?

There are a couple of threads here of riders that have turbo'd their bikes. But it sounds a wee bit pricey for my budget! A good 600 will get you more for your money IMO.
But; projects are fun!

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by waynemc

For upshifting and downshifting, I'm not sure if I'm doing it properly. When I upshift, I completely let go of the throttle momentarily, hold the clutch in, shift up, then I quickly sort of throttle back up to where my rpm's were previously, while increasing the throttle and slowly letting out the clutch. My shifts are smooth, but am I supposed to be completely letting go of the throttle or should I just slightly lower my revs? Do I need to lower them at all or can I just hold the throttle when upshifting and slowly increase while slipping the clutch?

For downshifting, I don't really do it often while moving because I don't really know the rpm's too well, but usually I just hold the clutch and shift straight to 1 or 2 when coming to a stop/slowing down.

What things should I never do that might damage my engine/transmission?

Clearly you haven't tried "just hold(ing) the throttle when upshifting and slowly increase while slipping the clutch".

You'll find that if you don't roll off when you pull in the clutch, the revs will skyrocket.

Also, based on your description your upshifts are very slow. That "slowly letting out the clutch" is the giveaway. You don't need to slip the clutch that much when moving. You also don't need to let the revs fall all the way down to idle.

So yeah... roll off, but go ahead and execute the shift quickly and let the clutch out quickly (that doesn't mean dump it... you'll get the feel once you get more practice). By the time you've pulled in the clutch and moved the shift lever, the revs will have fallen enough to rev-match in the higher gear, even if you do it all about as fast as you can.

Re holding the clutch in... this is bike-dependent, but you probably don't need to pull the clutch all the way in to upshift. On my two bikes, pulling just part way is plenty.

Re downshifting... you're not doing it right. You should progressively downshift as you slow.

You should not find yourself in 2nd or 1st before the bike is going slow enough to be happy in those gears, which is what you're doing now based on your description. You said you "just hold the clutch and shift straight to 1 or 2 when coming to a stop/slowing down."

Think about it. What if, while doing that lazy coast down, you suddenly had to gas it to get out of trouble? What if you'd shifted all the way to 2nd while still going 50 mph? What do you think would happen if you let the clutch out right then?

In, for example, an off-ramp situation, an intermediate downshift makes perfect sense. You're in 6th on a highway, coming up to an exit ramp. Signal, brake lightly as you exit and shift to 5th as the speed comes down to 50 or so. Now you're in 5th but still slowing. Downshift again, to 4th, then 3rd, etc.

You don't need to let the clutch out in between each gear (you know this already because you're doing it), but it's useful. The engine will help slow the bike. Plus you'll be in the correct gear to accelerate if needed.

I'll echo what others have said... it's a really good idea to take the MSF course.

Re damaging your engine... don't:
- over-rev it (yes there's a rev limiter but don't go around bouncing off of it or... oh, I don't know... let the clutch out in 1st gear at 50 mph... )
- lug it, e.g. by taking off from a stop light in 5th gear. It's possible, but not a good idea
- ignore maintenance
- load it heavily if it's cold... ride gently until the temp comes up.