April 3rd, 2013, 07:09 PM | #1 |
swell dude extraordinaire
Name: Robert
Location: Long Beach, CA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, streetbike), '08 Ninja 250R (yellow, racebike), '97 Yamaha TZ125 4JT Posts: 14
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300 air switching valve and purge valve (CAL) removal
hello everyone,
Has anyone removed the air switching valve and (for California models) purge valve/carbon canister successfully? I'd removed both and installed blank off plate/carb caps when I race prepped my 250R but I note that these items are connected to the ECU on the 300 and am a bit wary of doing so. It'd be nice to clean up the extra plumbing though but not if it causes the ECU to do strange things. many thanks in advance, Robert |
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April 6th, 2013, 07:39 AM | #2 |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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April 7th, 2013, 09:21 PM | #3 |
swell dude extraordinaire
Name: Robert
Location: Long Beach, CA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, streetbike), '08 Ninja 250R (yellow, racebike), '97 Yamaha TZ125 4JT Posts: 14
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I started to have a look in the (long) DFI section of the service manual. It seems fairly evident that removing either or both switches will throw an error code once the ECU discovers that they're disconnected...
I believe that these are solenoid switches and the service manual does offer a DC resistance range for each switch: Purge Valve (carbon canister, CAL): 30 - 34 ohms Air Switching Valve: 20 - 24 ohms I'm currently toying with the idea of substituting fixed resistors in place of the valves though I have not yet tested with them disconnected yet... Also not certain what causes these valves to close or subsequently whether a lack of change in whatever condition warrants the valves to activate will cause another error code or DFI malfunctioning. In any event, I'm leaving everything connected for now and will continue pursuing this once I have the Area P / Fuel Moto installed. best, Robert Last futzed with by joyspring; April 7th, 2013 at 09:36 PM. Reason: misspelling |
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April 10th, 2013, 06:16 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jason
Location: Northwest FL
Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 13 ninja 300, 04 crf 250, 06 yz125 Posts: 43
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Hey bro do a search of this and other forums. There is a thread out there with pics and info. I did this mod on my bike. You just need to put a resister in each circuit so the computer thinks they are still connected. The resisters you can get at radio shack for less than a dollar. If you cant find the thread than let me know and I will make a diy for this. It took me about 5 mins to solder in the resisters. I cut the connectors off and soldered in the resisters and used heat shrink and taper to seal the ends up. The thread that is out there shows you how to use spade connecters and make a plug so you dont have to cut the connectors off. Works like a charm and no Check engine light
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
April 10th, 2013, 06:23 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jason
Location: Northwest FL
Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 13 ninja 300, 04 crf 250, 06 yz125 Posts: 43
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I may have .read your post to fast. I dont have a Ca model. I was talking about the block off plate on the head and the associated connectors. Not sure if that is what you were talking about now.
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April 10th, 2013, 06:36 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Carlos
Location: Puerto Rico
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300R Posts: 181
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stupid question, is that air switching valve the air kleen system?
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April 15th, 2013, 10:01 AM | #7 |
swell dude extraordinaire
Name: Robert
Location: Long Beach, CA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, streetbike), '08 Ninja 250R (yellow, racebike), '97 Yamaha TZ125 4JT Posts: 14
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hi everyone,
Sorry for the late reply; I was away at a track day Friday and MWGP round over the weekend... @felo and Jaybo - All models have got the air switching valve that connects to the valve cover that we'd like to install a block-off plate over ;-) This is part of the KLEEN air system. The `air switching valve' is a component. CAL models have an additional evaporative emissions control (carbon canister) which involves the purge valve. I was discussing both systems in my original post I'm going to test the resistor substitution idea but would like to measure voltage/current before building a permanent solution... Searching the threads yielded some answers from the Ninja 250 FI, which we never received in California. Very cool and thanks! -Robert |
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April 15th, 2013, 08:52 PM | #8 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Carlos
Location: Puerto Rico
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300R Posts: 181
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Quote:
well i did remove the kleen air system, and did the block of plate on my ninja 300, i did remove all of the piping and stuff but i let the air switching valve conected because if you disconected it throws a CEL, so yeah i leave it conected even tho it doesnt do nothing i did this on a non-cali model , so i dont know how much it differs to yours... http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...4&postcount=21 this is what i did on mine, not my post but you get the idea why dont you do what people do to remove the air kleen system on the new gens on cali? original thread http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948 |
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September 5th, 2013, 10:07 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Adrian
Location: Torrance
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 78
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I have the same problem. I need to remove the KLEEN to install Autotune. I'm worried about an engine light. I don't think it would affect performance but it would really annoy me.
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September 5th, 2013, 12:05 PM | #10 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much.
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September 5th, 2013, 12:18 PM | #11 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Chris
Location: Nokesville, VA
Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 470
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Quote:
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January 21st, 2014, 02:09 AM | #12 |
ninjette.org member
Name: mania
Location: Asia
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 250 Posts: 242
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Bump....
anything further on this? I was also curious about removing the evap system just to clear clutter really Capped off the kleen Air today but like someone mentioned I left the electric valve connected so as to not throw a CEL Curious now about the Evap just to reduce clutter in that area. Would be easier to work the plugs etc. Thanks |
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January 21st, 2014, 04:13 PM | #13 |
swell dude extraordinaire
Name: Robert
Location: Long Beach, CA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, streetbike), '08 Ninja 250R (yellow, racebike), '97 Yamaha TZ125 4JT Posts: 14
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I've got more updates forthcoming, contingent on further testing on my bike. So far 3k miles later, things are looking quite good
Since my 300 is my primary transportation that I'm still making payments on, I opted for long-term measurement and testing to ensure that real electrical/thermal limits aren't exceeded... these switches actually draw significant current and managing that safely is not trivial. Bob |
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January 21st, 2014, 10:22 PM | #14 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: mania
Location: Asia
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 250 Posts: 242
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Quote:
Not worried about testing here just want to know that it is possible to remove system shunt the plug/switch & not have a CEL turn on Thanks |
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March 5th, 2015, 12:58 PM | #15 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kalle
Location: Mountain View,CA
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, Duke 690 Posts: 33
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Quote:
However, I noticed today that the resistor had actually melted the electric tape around it and was "sweating" a bit. Anyone found a solution here? I could try experimenting with a higher resistance, and see if it doesn't trip the ECU, other option I guess would be some really beefy restitor (hard to find?). |
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March 5th, 2015, 03:04 PM | #16 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dima
Location: Midwest
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): zx10r Posts: 43
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Quote:
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March 5th, 2015, 04:16 PM | #17 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kalle
Location: Mountain View,CA
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, Duke 690 Posts: 33
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Quote:
However, saw someone mentioning that measuring resistance over the valve is not representative because it's an inductive load - any input on if I could actually get away with a higher resistance to lower the current through it? |
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March 5th, 2015, 08:16 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dima
Location: Midwest
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): zx10r Posts: 43
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I don't see why you couldn't get away with 1k ohm .25watt resistor, it would lower the current by a lot and won't heat up.
Last futzed with by Electronic M; March 6th, 2015 at 11:59 AM. |
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March 6th, 2015, 11:18 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kalle
Location: Mountain View,CA
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, Duke 690 Posts: 33
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Alright, I was just being lazy, I'll try this and post the results, I see a lot of people use 10W resistors but getting away with using a 0.25-0.5W resistor would be awesome indeed.
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March 10th, 2015, 05:30 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kalle
Location: Mountain View,CA
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, Duke 690 Posts: 33
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March 11th, 2015, 12:39 AM | #21 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dima
Location: Midwest
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): zx10r Posts: 43
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February 13th, 2017, 01:36 PM | #22 |
ninjette.org member
Name: parker
Location: STL
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 n250, 14 n300, 22 n400 Posts: 99
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hi all, appreciative of the work that's been done so far, just wanted to follow up and see if the 1K ohm resister is still the way to go? has anyone gone so far as to get cycleterminal to make a connector?
tia, parker |
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