M Gymkhana® Tech Tips - Riding Techniques

[M Gymkhaner]

Okay fellas, buzz in on what you think the best way to ride gymkhana would be. Let's hear your thoughts on, "to clutch or not to clutch"

http://m-gymkhana.com/2014/09/25/mgy...ip-thursday-1/

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by M Gymkhaner

Okay fellas, buzz in on what you think the best way to ride gymkhana would be. Let's hear your thoughts on, "to clutch or not to clutch"

http://m-gymkhana.com/2014/09/25/mgy...ip-thursday-1/

but what if you need to lock the rear up to get it to kick around faster?

[NevadaWolf]

Interesting tip, thank you.

I really would like to be closer to you! These skills would be a lot of fun to learn and definitely help with my control and understanding of my bike.

[CycleCam303]

I believe clutch control and slipping the clutch are very useful techniques. In the msf classes I tell some of the students that are learning faster to try going through the off set weave section using 2nd gear and slipping the clutch to get the bike through.

I personally find it faster to control power with the clutch. Slipping the clutch going around a tight radius and then letting it fully engage to pull myself out of the apex and stand the bike up. I might have the bike revved a bit higher but it makes the transitions smoother and more controlled.

Slightly off topic from moto gymkhana.
I also slip the clutch while braking for a corner. I can control how much engine braking is going to the rear tire and even modulate the angle of the slide while backing it in. But I also do this to control traction levels while under hard braking. It's a different kind of technique but it works really well for me in a dirt track situation.

[csmith12]

Hmmmm, I think I might get into this a bit. Maybe next year I will have more time to explore.

[M Gymkhaner]

Clutch slipping in corner entry (on track, much higher speeds) definately helps with engine breaking. Completely different to motogymkhana, as you mentioned. But now a days with slipper clutches can't you just dial that in in/out depending on what you're looking for?

Moto gymkhana clutching is entirely a different animal. Because it's so much quicker (faster) modulating clutch is definately slower. I'll get a video up to make it a topic of discussion as well.

Keeping throttle cracked open and dabbing the rear brake to drag the bike thru a rotation or just the weighting the front tire which in effect quickens up the steering because the front end is compressed (even a bit) essentially drops the front and raises the rear....

"Talk amongst yourselves..."

[CycleCam303]

Originally Posted by M Gymkhaner

Clutch slipping in corner entry (on track, much higher speeds) definately helps with engine breaking. Completely different to motogymkhana, as you mentioned. But now a days with slipper clutches can't you just dial that in in/out depending on what you're looking for?

On the really high end electronic packages you can dial in the engine braking you desire. Most slipper clutches that come stock on the bikes are non adjustable. The slipper on my hypermotard kicks in all the time. You cannot get the rear end to step out at all no matter how clumsy one is with the clutch.

With that said, they are great for high speed work ala track but I feel they take away a useful tool in low speed situations.

I've never done moto gymkhana and I'm sure you're way better than I would be at it.

But what if you dragged the clutch coming into the corner? Using the engine braking to load of the front. Almost like trail braking? So no throttle just using the clutch to control front dive and initial bite?

[M Gymkhaner]

You could do that, but there is just not enough time in between cones to set up for that. This is the reason why the rear brake is so important. For example, say you're coming out is a pyramid type obstacle or a staggered slalom into a yellow-top red or blue cone. You're accelerating hard out of the one obstacle but then 3 seconds later your grabbing the brakes front & rear to slow the bike down, everything is compressed, as you tip it in you release the front brake to allow the front tire to start turning and press harder on the rear brake to continue slowing down, push down on the inside peg to push the bike in, squeeze with your outside leg to help keep the bike in the turn, get the bars to full lock. Now because you need to be quick the bike is rolling forward (slightly open throttle or higher idle speed) so she wants to stand up... (A full rotation turn can be performed in 2-3 seconds by top riders) you have to drag the rear brake to keep this from happening. Once you've completed the rotation, simply release the brake completely, the bike automatically stands up and you smoothly grab a handful of throttle to get to the next obstacle.