Mods Ordered and Jet Kit Question

[ninja_sleeper]

Yesterday I ordered my Cowl Cover, Integrated tail light, liscence plate rear blinkers, flush front turn signals, and some white reflective tape and a red oil cap. These are my first mods, and I am pretty excited to get them on!

My next buy is going to be an exhaust, jet kit and air filter. I noticed though, that there are different jet kits. Some say "step 1 and 3" or just "step 1". I don't know which one to get, and don't want to waste my money on the wrong thing... any one with experience and advice, please let me know.

[YORCHI]

Which exhaust are you getting? If you're getting the Area P exhaust they have the recommended kit on their site for sale as well.

[Cuongism]

Not sure about Factory Pro, but for DynoJet and the newgen, it's DynoJet 2193 Stage 2 kit.

[Cuongism]

Also, which air filter and exhaust were you thinking of? Jet kits only come with a limited number of jets so you may need a different size depending on your combo.

[ninja_sleeper]

I am not sure what kind of exhaust I am getting. That's another question I have. What do you all recommend?

I was thinking about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1A6T5UAR0MQ4T

It's a little more than I would like to spend, though.

[azimmer11]

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=83191

[Dr. Ew]

Yuck 429 for a s/o.
My full system carbon fiber yoshi was 500 with free shipping. I say pay the extra for a full. Ill find the website again if interested.
I used a dynojet kitwith k&n filter.

[Dr. Ew]

Azimmer post is a better deal! Didnt see that.

[azimmer11]

full exhaust for cheaper than the slip on

[ninja_sleeper]

What's the difference between full exhaust and slip on?

[Shaol1n Monk]

my understanding is with a slip on u really dont need to rejet. but if you are doing an air filter u will need to rejet.

also a slip on is really just a noise maker so dont spend alot on one. i got a barely used MGP growler for $200 shipped and i love it. my bike sounds like a motorcycle now and not a suped up vacuum cleaner. the stock exhaust is way too quiet.

so first thing to ask urself is what u want out of ur mods. do u want more horsepower? if so spend the money on full exhaust and jet kit and do K&N air filter.

if you just want ur bike to be heard u can find a used slip on cheap and just mount it and go.

for me, my bike is my everyday rider so i did alot of cosmetic and control mods while in season. when i get some snow here in philly i will have some time to do the jet kit and air filter.

i highly recommend woodcraft clip ons as a mod, it will give you a more aggressive riding position and makes the bike feel more like a sport bike when riding. rearsets also do this by moving ur feet back and up. u wind up with a less scooter-like riding position and more like a pure sportbike feel.
good luck

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

What's the difference between full exhaust and slip on?

i think i answered that a bit above.
obviously there is a lot less labor involved w the slip on too.

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

Yesterday I ordered my Cowl Cover, Integrated tail light, liscence plate rear blinkers, flush front turn signals, and some white reflective tape and a red oil cap. These are my first mods, and I am pretty excited to get them on!

also, why both integrated tail light AND rear blinkers?
i guess it never hurts to have both, but im looking to get an integrated tail light to eliminate my rear blinkers.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by Shaol1n Monk

also, why both integrated tail light AND rear blinkers?
i guess it never hurts to have both, but im looking to get an integrated tail light to eliminate my rear blinkers.

She got rear license plate led's that maybe she will wire to be blinkers as well. That's how I read her post anyways. Also, some states require rear blinkers visible on bikes, so some people need them that way. Personally, I would get both, but not use the stock rear blinkers. I would go with the rear led's on my bike and an integrated system.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

What's the difference between full exhaust and slip on?

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Exhaust_Info

Just put that page up. It has a ways to go, but it's a start.

[HKr1]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

What's the difference between full exhaust and slip on?

Thats pretty much it..... full exhaust and slip-on

Tyga looks like a nice full system, good price too.

[Trailerboy531]

I (and many of the board members) fully recommend getting the Area P full exhaust. It's a high quality system from a fantastic company - you'll get the most gains from it and it sounds great.

[ninja_sleeper]

Originally Posted by Shaol1n Monk

also, why both integrated tail light AND rear blinkers?
i guess it never hurts to have both, but im looking to get an integrated tail light to eliminate my rear blinkers.

I bought some tail end turn signals that can be attached to the licence plate. They are small, and they don't stick out like the stock blinkers. I got the integrated as well. I am doing both so that they will be seen. I have read that not everyone can notice the blinkers on an integrated tail light. Also it's illegal, technically, but none of the po around here really pay any attention I hear. I would rather play it safe, I don't want them to have any reason to roll me.

Thanks for the good info, all!

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

She got rear license plate led's that maybe she will wire to be blinkers as well. That's how I read her post anyways. Also, some states require rear blinkers visible on bikes, so some people need them that way. Personally, I would get both, but not use the stock rear blinkers. I would go with the rear led's on my bike and an integrated system.

gotcha. i have rear LEDS on my bike rt now but eventually i wanna do an undertail w integrated taillight. the hotbodies undertail has leds built in too so i guess that counts as both.

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

I bought some tail end turn signals that can be attached to the licence plate. They are small, and they don't stick out like the stock blinkers. I got the integrated as well. I am doing both so that they will be seen. I have read that not everyone can notice the blinkers on an integrated tail light. Also it's illegal, technically, but none of the po around here really pay any attention I hear. I would rather play it safe, I don't want them to have any reason to roll me.

Thanks for the good info, all!

makes sense... **** the police! oops i mean, hey there officer friendly, nice day for a ride on my completely legal motorscooter. no reason to pull me over, plus i smell fresh donuts at Dunkin'

[greatwhiteninja]

full exhaust on these bikes makes a very noticeable difference! im running a area p but getting ready to put a dan moto slip on along with it.. mainly for looks full exhaust also sounds better then running the stock head pipe.

[alex.s]

hehe! looks like someone's got the bug.

full exhaust is everything from the pipes from the engine all the way to the muffler, slip on is just the muffler. full exhaust is "better" because it means you get bigger pipes the whole way, but more importantly no emissions control crap to sully up your flow. if you're doing it for performance get a full pipe. for only looks/sound, get a slipon... i think everyone here agrees area P is the best bang for the buck for this bike

if you don't like attention from the fuzz, get a quiet one.

[ninja_sleeper]

Okay some stuff came in the mail today. IM EXCITED. I'll post pictures when it's all done. Anyone have links to instructions on how to do the above mentioned mods? Like the turn signals and tail light?

[CThunder-blue]

Read these two for integrated lights:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21581
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=40981

For your license plate lights, just extend the wires and attach them to your rear integrated light's constant +12v source. Meaning, attach the ground (black wires) to each other, then run a single wire from them to the ground wire on your integrated light. Do the same with the + wire and connect it to the running lights (making sure you don't connect it to the brake light of course).

Turn signals: Not sure which ones you bought, but if you want to retain the factory harness, you'll want to cut the pigtail off the stock signals and wire them to your new ones. Black is ground and green is power.

I'm sure you can handle the non-electrical mods yourself

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

Okay some stuff came in the mail today. IM EXCITED. I'll post pictures when it's all done. Anyone have links to instructions on how to do the above mentioned mods? Like the turn signals and tail light?

which front turn signals did you get?
i know when i did mine i found a video on youtube a guy did where he installed some flushmounts. they were not the same as mine but i still learned where everything went by watching it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmLQw52Vrvg

this isnt the one i used but it shows alot of the mechanical stuff

[ninja_sleeper]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I'm sure you can handle the non-electrical mods yourself

Is this a challenge? I'll take it.

The only non electrical mod is the cowl and reflective tape. lol..

I'll have you know, I scored HIGH on my GED tests.

[Shaol1n Monk]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

I'll have you know, I scored HIGH on my GED tests.

[Skippii]

Jet kits might be the single biggest rip off in all of motorcycling.

Jets for the Ninja are $2.50 each at any motorcycle shop.
3mm shims for the needle are $0.08 (Yes, 8 cents) at any hardware store.

The answer to your question is "none."
But the jets and the shims (washers) without a kit. It's not like the kit has any advantages whatsoever.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by ninja_sleeper

Is this a challenge? I'll take it.

The only non electrical mod is the cowl and reflective tape. lol..

I'll have you know, I scored HIGH on my GED tests.

Haha, it wouldn't be fun if it wasn't a challenge . Just remember to post pics when you're done. I'm curious to see your reflective tape design!

BTW, I noticed your new avatar. That's an awesome shirt!

[Cuongism]

Originally Posted by Skippii

Jet kits might be the single biggest rip off in all of motorcycling.

Jets for the Ninja are $2.50 each at any motorcycle shop.
3mm shims for the needle are $0.08 (Yes, 8 cents) at any hardware store.

The answer to your question is "none."
But the jets and the shims (washers) without a kit. It's not like the kit has any advantages whatsoever.

The reason jetkits costs more is not the jets, but the needles. They are identical needles (at least newgen) and have a different taper to them vs stock. Removing the airbox also requires more fuel which means larger jets.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by Cuongism

The reason jetkits costs more is not the jets, but the needles. They are identical needles (at least newgen) and have a different taper to them vs stock. Removing the airbox also requires more fuel which means larger jets.

also, the companies that make the kits send instructions with the kits that will get you generally in the right ballpark from the start that will at least get the bike running after mods. that takes research. part of the cost is going towards the amount of research it took to add those directions in with the kit.

personally I'm happy with just doing the jets and washers method, but the jetkit might (??) be a touch smoother

[Skippii]

Okay, good points, even though I disagree with all of them.

Originally Posted by Cuongism

The reason jetkits costs more is not the jets, but the needles. They are identical needles (at least newgen) and have a different taper to them vs stock.

Needle taper, while having no effect whatsoever at idle or full throttle, does have an effect on midrange--specifically, the rate at which the main jet size begins to take effect instead of needle height as the throttle is opened to full, so I agree that the taper is important. I highly doubt that anyone here would be able to detect any kind of a difference between Kawasaki taper and Dynojet taper needles if everything else was equal, though. I doubt even a dyno would see a difference, and that's ignoring the inherent difficulties of maintaining consistency at half-throttle dyno runs. Factoring all this together, my opinion is that a slightly different taper that may or may not be an improvement, and can't accurately be proved to be one way or the other, is not worth paying any additional money, let alone what they ask for in Jet Kits.
Furthermore, a metal file is all that's needed to change the taper of a needle. I've never had the desire to do this (as is probably clear from my above opinion) but I've heard of others doing so.

Originally Posted by choneofakind

also, the companies that make the kits send instructions with the kits that will get you generally in the right ballpark from the start

This is certainly true for some bikes, but for ours....not really. I did an experiment a while ago on a 2006 250 with a stock exhaust but K&N pods, testing different jet sizes to see just how much the bike actually cared about getting. Stock jets of 105 caused it to run poorly with the K&Ns. 107.5 was good, 110 was slightly better. 112.5 was the same, 115 was the same but with poor gas mileage, and 117.5 still had a bit less the same power, but really sucked in fuel mileage.

Basically, if you go richer than stock when you do mods, your bike will be running.

that will at least get the bike running after mods. that takes research. part of the cost is going towards the amount of research it took to add those directions in with the kit.

I suppose I should have said originally that the jet kits are a rip off for our bikes. There are certainly some bikes with 3 or 4 jets per carb on which I'd hate to start from scratch. I looked directions in kits for my 2006, and saw that they basically were just a larger main jet and a needle with an adjustable clip. The detailed directions just said to start with the needle clip in the middle and go up and down and see if it makes any difference. Those directions might be worth over $100 to some people, but not to me.

personally I'm happy with just doing the jets and washers method, but the jetkit might (??) be a touch smoother

What do you mean by smoother?

[LoD575]

Full exhaust and jet kit will be some of the last mods I do. Will shim the needles and remove the snorkel in the time being.

[ninja_sleeper]

My goodies are here! All but the seat cowl.



I will be working on this stuff tonight.

The flush mount turn signals for the front are smaller than the hole that the original stock turn signals stick out of. Should I mount them right in front of the hole? Anyone have pics or links as to what this would look like?


Here is the first mod I have ever done myself!
It's the red oil cap.

[CThunder-blue]

Can you show us what the blinkers look like? that would help.

[Kevin2109]

Where did you buy the red oil cap? I think thats going to be my next one

[ninja_sleeper]

Amazon.

Ya Ill post some when I get home later.

[Boomstick]

Is it best to order the Area P straight off their website? Or is there a cheaper site around.

[Alex]

The owner of Area P is on this site quite a bit, you might consider sending him (kbryant) a PM to see if there are any current specials on the particular exhaust you are looking for. Also, Richard often has good deals at his 250-focused store. Here's a link to his Area P stuff:

http://www.hotmotostore.com/Area-P_bymfg_3-0-1.html

[kawigirl]

I have an HMF performance slip on and a dynojet stage 2 kit on my bike. Difference is night and day. Power up top is actually there when you need it and throttle responds much much better enjoy!