Possible deal on a bike...opinions? (CBR 600rr)

[xSean13]

Nevermind...the guy was sketchy, purusing other options.
Still looking for a CBR 600rr though!

[Vergil]

It looks super super clean. Ask if he has any receipts or service records of course. The price you want to ask for seems more fair though.

[shizblam]

Condition and maintenance are the most important thing when buying a used bike. The miles are a little high for the price. I definitely wouldn't go more than 4k.

I paid 4250 for an 03 R6 with 6500 miles 5 years ago.

It's likely that the bike is due for spark plugs and a valve adjustment - ask if either have been done and use it as a negotiating point. Plugs + valve adjustment will easily cost a few hundred at a dealership.

Also look to see if the chain is rusted or kinked (lacking maintenance) - another couple hundred dollar item.

Tires... 300 more.

Walk your way around the bike and pick it apart if you can.

I wouldn't shy from it because of the mileage but try to use it as a negotiating point if it's as clean as it looks. Bring cash. Everyone likes cash.

Good luck!

[xSean13]

Originally Posted by shizblam

Condition and maintenance are the most important thing when buying a used bike. The miles are a little high for the price. I definitely wouldn't go more than 4k.

I paid 4250 for an 03 R6 with 6500 miles 5 years ago.

It's likely that the bike is due for spark plugs and a valve adjustment - ask if either have been done and use it as a negotiating point. Plugs + valve adjustment will easily cost a few hundred at a dealership.

Also look to see if the chain is rusted or kinked (lacking maintenance) - another couple hundred dollar item.

Tires... 300 more.

Walk your way around the bike and pick it apart if you can.

I wouldn't shy from it because of the mileage but try to use it as a negotiating point if it's as clean as it looks. Bring cash. Everyone likes cash.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info. Chain looks very clean based on the pic, tires look quite good too. I'll have to download the cbr service manual and see about that and ask for the records as @Vergil said.

[shizblam]

Just cause the chain looks clean doesn't mean it's not beat. If it's got 20k miles and 10 years on it - it needs changed. Make sure the chain has been replaced. If it doesn't have a master link, it is original and it needs to be changed.

[hirubhaiambani]

$4000 seems like a fair price to me. The bike looks nice. Hope everything's fine with it and you can buy it. Good luck!

Offtopic:
I looked at a 2009 Yamaha FZ6 to give my ninjette some company. Hit up insurance companies and the best quote I got was $1350 per year (Ninjette is $251/yr). Have to keep dreaming about the FZ6 for some more time.

[xSean13]

Originally Posted by shizblam

Just cause the chain looks clean doesn't mean it's not beat. If it's got 20k miles and 10 years on it - it needs changed. Make sure the chain has been replaced. If it doesn't have a master link, it is original and it needs to be changed.

Yeah I hear you, good info though that I probably would've forgot about. According to the service manual the valve check/adjustment came at 16k miles, so it should have been taken care of already, I'll have to see about that :P

Originally Posted by hirubhaiambani

$4000 seems like a fair price to me. The bike looks nice. Hope everything's fine with it and you can buy it. Good luck!

Offtopic:
I looked at a 2009 Yamaha FZ6 to give my ninjette some company. Hit up insurance companies and the best quote I got was $1350 per year (Ninjette is $251/yr). Have to keep dreaming about the FZ6 for some more time.

Yeah I looked at the newer fazers too, I'm expecting a big increase in insurance costs :P

[shizblam]

Originally Posted by xSean13

Yeah I hear you, good info though that I probably would've forgot about. According to the service manual the valve check/adjustment came at 16k miles, so it should have been taken care of already, I'll have to see about that :P



Yeah I looked at the newer fazers too, I'm expecting a big increase in insurance costs :P

Yea. Valves are one of the things people like to skip on their maintenance schedule, because most don't see it as 'important', or they don't know about it at all. And it's fairly expensive to pay a shop to do the labor.

I'd also find out about coolant, air filter, brake fluid flushes etc. All of this should have been done by 20k miles, but many people neglect to actually do it.

[Jono]

That's a nice looking bike! I hope everything checks out and you can get it for around 4k.

[KawiKid860]

Being a honda, it's probably gonna be in great mechanical shape even without proper maintenance. and will last forever and then some. Definitely check on it though, just because the bike will still run without proper maintenance doesn't mean it's good to skip it lol.

[Malicious Logic]

Well, KBB says about $3800 for excellent condition in your area. I realize most prices aren't solely reliant on what the actual value of the bike is, but atleast it's a start. I think it looks pretty good but the miles kinda scare me. Not sure how long a bike like that can be expected to run.

If you do get it though, I'd take advantage of the distance you have to travel. Get a friend or family to take you up there and then ride it back. 3 hours should give you and the new Ms. some time to get acquainted.

[csmith12]

Mileage is nothing on that bike, my friends track only rr has nealy twice the mileage. Anything over $3800 would be a lesser deal for you.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Mileage is nothing on that bike.........

My ninjette has 21,000 miles under her and is as good as new.

That CBR's engine will last more than 100K miles.

I don't know about the price, but I would definitively buy it; it is a lovely Dual Stage Fuel Injection machine.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by shizblam

If it doesn't have a master link, it is original and it needs to be changed.

Not true re the master link. Many if not most sport bike replacement chains have a rivet type master link.

[xSean13]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Mileage is nothing on that bike, my friends track only rr has nealy twice the mileage. Anything over $3800 would be a lesser deal for you.

Yeah I've heard these bikes can have a lot of mileage, just wasn't sure what a typical bike can accrue, so thanks!

Hmmm, the guy said he doesn't have maint. records, so I'm thinking if I got it I'd have to go have a valve adjustment done just to be on the safer side.

[backinthesaddleagain]

I have 21K on my 2009 CBR. I change the oil every 3-4K miles, brakes at 12K, and did the airfilter around 15K. It does call for a valve check at 16K, which I didn't do based on others who have had them checked at 16K and all were in spec. Your mileage may vary as they say.

Check out 600rr.net you can pull the maintenance schedule there.

[shizblam]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

Not true re the master link. Many if not most sport bike replacement chains have a rivet type master link.

They still have a master link - and the rivets will look different. They will either have a clip type (much more common on 520 converted 600s) or the rivet type (which is generally used on 530 chains)

[Jesse8931]

Originally Posted by shizblam

They still have a master link - and the rivets will look different. They will either have a clip type (much more common on 520 converted 600s) or the rivet type (which is generally used on 530 chains)

Sorry dude your wrong non of my bikes have any master links.

[shizblam]

Originally Posted by Jesse8931

Sorry dude your wrong non of my bikes have any master links.

The rivet/s that have been installed with the chain tool will still look significantly different than the oem rivets.

This is what I'm talking about:

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16154

vs

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16153


You're right - I'm wrong. I have no idea what I'm talking about. I've never done chains before - It was all in my imagination.

[Jesse8931]

Originally Posted by shizblam

The rivet/s that have been installed with the chain tool will still look significantly different than the oem rivets.

This is what I'm talking about:

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16154

vs

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16153


You're right - I'm wrong. I have no idea what I'm talking about. I've never done chains before - It was all in my imagination.

Why the hell would you use that when you can push the pin out and re use the pin it cost me nothing

[shizblam]

Originally Posted by Jesse8931

Why the hell would you use that when you can push the pin out and re use the pin it cost me nothing

What kind of rivet are you using that you don't need to grind one side off of to remove? Rivets are flared on both sides so that they can't come undone - If you can just push a rivet through without grinding - your chain is unsafe.

Removal of the rivet should damage it to the point that it can't be used again...

You're replacing your chain - why would you be reusing anything dealing with the chain or sprokets? This is your drivetrain. It's the most important part of the bike.

[csmith12]

Been to the track Brain? Reusing the pin is fairly common practice.... yea even at a buck fiddy.

[shizblam]

I go to the track fairly regularly actually. I wouldn't reuse a rivet on my chain. Not for $2.

[csmith12]

I feel ya mang, just different strokes for different folks.

[Jesse8931]

Never once had an issue.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by shizblam

Just cause the chain looks clean doesn't mean it's not beat. If it's got 20k miles and 10 years on it - it needs changed. Make sure the chain has been replaced. If it doesn't have a master link, it is original and it needs to be changed.

My chain is original. It has a link that is riveted on (copper colored pins on that link). Your suggestion to the OP is that if they don't see a master link it is original. I can easily spot that link on my original chain. The OP is trying to get help. Nice that you want to help, but try to be more clear.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by shizblam

The rivet/s that have been installed with the chain tool will still look significantly different than the oem rivets.

This is what I'm talking about:

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16154

vs

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com...l.bok?no=16153


You're right - I'm wrong. I have no idea what I'm talking about. I've never done chains before - It was all in my imagination.

why don't you show a pic of a riveted link on an oem chain, if i were home i would take one and post but i am at work. then show a pic of an installed replacement chain. my oem chain's pins show the flare on one of the links. All you are doing here is showing a pic of an uninstalled clip type master link and a pic of an uninstalled rivet type master link.

[shizblam]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

why don't you show a pic of a riveted link on an oem chain, if i were home i would take one and post but i am at work. then show a pic of an installed replacement chain. my oem chain's pins show the flare on one of the links. All you are doing here is showing a pic of an uninstalled clip type master link and a pic of an uninstalled rivet type master link.

I'm saying to look for signs of the OEM chain being replaced. Really, that's all. And I'm trying to give a couple pointers at how to do that. 20k miles + 10 years is too much for a chain. If you can't tell the difference between an OEM chain and one that has been replaced, you should probably be taking a friend with you who knows what they're looking at.

Either way - this is minimally important to the OP. Back on topic...

[xSean13]

Well, the guy accepted $4,000...I was about to leave to go get it and he changed his mind saying he wouldn't take a cashier's check, even with me offering to record a video of the acquisition of the cashier's check from the bank.

[choneofakind]

That seems shady. A cashier's check can only be taken if the account has enough money to cover the check, then that money is immediately deducted from the account so it can't be spent. It's basically a check that's assured to be good. If he didn't want that, it seems kinda fishy to me.

Did he only want cash? That's an awful lot of cash to be carrying around...

[backinthesaddleagain]

I'd look at the chain as follows (kind of like they do at a track day or a good shop). Is it free of rust, does it have alot of side to side play, if properly adjusted can you pull it away the rear sprocket toward the back of the bike? How do the sprocket teeth look? Worn would be hooked or sharply pointed. There is a replace chain stick on many swingarms. If the stock gearing (# of teeth havent' changed) then you could use that sticker as another guide. If they have changed the gearing then that won't be acurate in many cases.

A bit hard to do on a streetbike, but try to find any slop in the steering head bearings. The bars should turn left and right smoothly. If you apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth you shouldn't feel any fore and aft play between the forks and the rest of the bike. Again easier on a dirt bike where you can just throw the bike on a milk crate and grab the forks and try to rock them back and forth.

Any oil leaks, does the throttle snap back when released.

All in all these are pretty reliable bikes and the 20K miles and 10 years would be less important to me than a neglected beat on newer bike with less miles.

Good luck!

[csmith12]

Common.... live a little. Get a stack of big faces and go get it.

[menikmati]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Did he only want cash? That's an awful lot of cash to be carrying around...

Straight cash, homie.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by xSean13

Well, the guy accepted $4,000...I was about to leave to go get it and he changed his mind saying he wouldn't take a cashier's check, even with me offering to record a video of the acquisition of the cashier's check from the bank.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Safety_...ing_or_selling


"..........There have also been instances where people will offer an item they don't even possess, ask you to bring cash to the meet, and then mug you.

You might want to consider some of these options:

Pick a place to meet that affords you some measure of comfort. The parking lot of the local police station, for instance, should have cameras and people going in and out frequently, not to mention the officers. Anyone up to no good will think twice about your meeting point. ................If you can't get someone to agree to meet at a bank or the police department, but they still seem legitimate, tell them that you will not be able to bring cash to the first meeting. Tell them you want to check the title, check the VIN, and see the bike first. At least you'll know that the bike exists before risking your money or your life."

[nautica]

Can you see if there is a bank local to where you're meeting him? I would check the bike out first and if everything is to your liking go to the bank and get the cash out, I wouldn't take cash without knowing what you're getting into honestly. And as said, I wouldn't pay more than $4k for that bike. I've seen later model years with less mileage for around that price that were clean. Is there nothing more local that interests you?

[xSean13]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

That seems shady. A cashier's check can only be taken if the account has enough money to cover the check, then that money is immediately deducted from the account so it can't be spent. It's basically a check that's assured to be good. If he didn't want that, it seems kinda fishy to me.

Did he only want cash? That's an awful lot of cash to be carrying around...

Yeah he wanted cash only, I told him exactly what you said, especially since I'd be traveling almost 4 hours there...not exactly "safe" carrying that amount, I'm not Floyd Mayweather and like carrying around a dufflebag full of cash.

Originally Posted by nautica

Can you see if there is a bank local to where you're meeting him? I would check the bike out first and if everything is to your liking go to the bank and get the cash out, I wouldn't take cash without knowing what you're getting into honestly. And as said, I wouldn't pay more than $4k for that bike. I've seen later model years with less mileage for around that price that were clean. Is there nothing more local that interests you?

Yeah I told him that, the nearest Bank of America is maybe 30-40 mins from his location, but by the time we got there today it would be closed. The sole purpose of us agreeing on a price first, etc was because of the trip.

[shizblam]

I would have him meet you at a bank or a police department as said. If he won't agree to it. Don't buy it.

I would probably look elsewhere though. Especially if you're willing to travel several hours. There are tons of bikes that are going to be popping up for sale soon. There's no hurry.

Wait until you find the right bike from someone you believe you can trust. Don't make a poor decision because you're trying to upgrade. The right bike will come. It could take a few weeks.

[Whiskey]

There's regularly CBRs that age (rr & f4i models) with 30+ thou on the clock still commanding a decent price here. Honda are legendary for their reliability (excluding the reg rec, they're prone to burnout)

Originally Posted by shizblam

What kind of rivet are you using that you don't need to grind one side off of to remove? Rivets are flared on both sides so that they can't come undone - If you can just push a rivet through without grinding - your chain is unsafe.

Removal of the rivet should damage it to the point that it can't be used again...

You're replacing your chain - why would you be reusing anything dealing with the chain or sprokets? This is your drivetrain. It's the most important part of the bike.

Not to mention that it's the one part that if it goes can whip around & take lumps out of you.

[xSean13]

Originally Posted by shizblam

I would have him meet you at a bank or a police department as said. If he won't agree to it. Don't buy it.

I would probably look elsewhere though. Especially if you're willing to travel several hours. There are tons of bikes that are going to be popping up for sale soon. There's no hurry.

Wait until you find the right bike from someone you believe you can trust. Don't make a poor decision because you're trying to upgrade. The right bike will come. It could take a few weeks.

Yeah good advice, I stopped talking to that guy because he's sketchy. I did find a guy less than an hour away with another '03 600RR with just under 10k miles but needing new tires, I offered him 3500 but he wouldn't go below 3600..so we'll see how that goes.

I'm gonna be doing A LOT of riding (mainly interstate) since I'm starting flight school this summer and the commute to the airport is a pretty good ways away. (Going to have to be at the airport 4 days a week for the next 4 semesters)

So I'd like to sell the 250 before I put a whole lot more miles on it, thus devaluing. But I'm not desperate, I love it, and wouldn't mind keeping it so I'm not rushing anything.

[SMman]

Congrats on flight school. Save your money and keep the 250. You're going to need every penny. Flying certainly isn't cheap and you will be making peanuts during that first job or two. Its a tough industry but stick with it if flying is what you love. My flying job is like getting paid to ride my motorcycles.