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Old January 22nd, 2024, 06:39 AM   #1
oldnewninjarider
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New '05 EX250F - Issues: Front Alignment, Steering Wobble, Throttle, Carb, Petcock et

Picked up a mostly clean looking '05, 4k miles, $1200, believe from original owner, garaged.

Needs a bunch of things, wonder if it's worth fixing, or is it too much and better to sell it and look for a newer bike that hasn't been sitting. Not many small affordable sport bikes around here, some Duke 390s asking $3-4k next closest, but only a few years old.

Oil was changed around 2k miles, darker brown but no metal in it around drain plug or on oil screen (only a couple very small grey plastic looking pieces on screen), changed filter, put in Castrol 10W40 motorcycle synthetic.

-Was dropped on right side in garage supposedly, paint is pretty clean, slightly cracked fairing, couple sizeable dents in tank both right and left side, right signal taped on.

-Handlebars need to be held slightly left to track straight, riding while releasing them bars wobble. Spinning tire with wheel up in air seems to wobble, wheel spins but not very free, feels like slight resistance slowing it back down.

-Still on original tires from '04, have chicken strips on them still, rear has some cracks in sidewall.

-Petcock seems to leak from drain hose, hose is plugged with a bolt. Fuel filter is incorrectly sized aftermarket, fuel line to it is kinked, carb float drain screw is stripped on one side, other areas missing some bolts.

-Problems holding cold idle, seems to die unless holding throttle open manually, though carbs look new, some rust near top of fuel tank lid. Had bad gas in it, came out brownish orange color, though after warming up, idled stable, rode ok, revved well, engine sounds and feels good.

-Starter motor seems to be bad, after a dozen starts where it seemed to crank fine, stopped cranking, solenoid clicks, except sometimes banging on the starter lets it crank.

-Clutch makes knock sound at cold idle, engagement feels soft, doesn't grab hard on dropping it, engagement zone very wide.

-Brakes feel soft, probably untouched.

-Throttle has too much play, seems no adjustment left to tighten, cable looks new, maybe incorrect too long throttle cable was used, appears open/uncovered, missing a cover/guide.
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Old January 22nd, 2024, 07:23 AM   #2
Triple Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnewninjarider View Post

-Handlebars need to be held slightly left to track straight, riding while releasing them bars wobble. Spinning tire with wheel up in air seems to wobble, wheel spins but not very free, feels like slight resistance slowing it back down.
Does the wheel wobble, or just the tire? Slight resistance is normal for a disk brake wheel. Pulling to the right could mean misaligned fork tubes or bent parts, including frame.

Quote:
-Petcock seems to leak from drain hose, hose is plugged with a bolt. Fuel filter is incorrectly sized aftermarket, fuel line to it is kinked, carb float drain screw is stripped on one side, other areas missing some bolts.
There is no drain hose. The extra hose is a vacuum hose that opens the petcock when the engine is running. Leaking from there indicates a leaking diaphragm. Is the float bowl drain screw stripped (turns without tightening) or is the head messed up so you can't turn it? Ducatiman here runs an excellent carburetor restoration service and may be of some help.

Quote:
-Starter motor seems to be bad, after a dozen starts where it seemed to crank fine, stopped cranking, solenoid clicks, except sometimes banging on the starter lets it crank.
That probably indicates that the battery is discharged or needs replacement, or connections are dirty.

Quote:
Clutch makes knock sound at cold idle, engagement feels soft, doesn't grab hard on dropping it, engagement zone very wide.
Adjust clutch per manual and see if engagement is better. These clutches are known to clunk at slow idle due to rubber bushings getting bad. It's mostly an annoyance.
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Old January 22nd, 2024, 09:20 AM   #3
oldnewninjarider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Does the wheel wobble, or just the tire? Slight resistance is normal for a disk brake wheel. Pulling to the right could mean misaligned fork tubes or bent parts, including frame.
The wheel turns side to side while spinning it in the air, similar happens riding it and letting go of the bars. Could it be due to steering shaft alignment with straight handlebars out due to fall? How can source be confirmed? If it is fork tubes/bent parts/frame, how expensive of a fix is this? This is the biggest concern, that it is a major expensive repair, if so, not sure worth it to invest in it with long list of issues, vs getting something else.

Quote:
There is no drain hose. The extra hose is a vacuum hose that opens the petcock when the engine is running. Leaking from there indicates a leaking diaphragm. Is the float bowl drain screw stripped (turns without tightening) or is the head messed up so you can't turn it? Ducatiman here runs an excellent carburetor restoration service and may be of some help.
The head of the screw was stripped so couldn't grab/turn it to drain float bowl on one side. Need a gasket, or new petcock also?

Quote:
That probably indicates that the battery is discharged or needs replacement, or connections are dirty.
Cleaned the connections, though was unsure why the power terminal on the starter motor had so many washers/nuts/spacers on it, also tried without those. Any photo of how they are supposed to go together? Could not find it online. Thought if battery, should get weak crank, but got distinct loud solenoid click instead when it didn't work, then tapping on starter motor let it turn and crank, did not seem like weak battery.

Quote:
Adjust clutch per manual and see if engagement is better. These clutches are known to clunk at slow idle due to rubber bushings getting bad. It's mostly an annoyance.
To adjust play in cable at levers and at engine? Or need to open the actual clutch?
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Old January 22nd, 2024, 11:15 AM   #4
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I think you're describing a bent front wheel, but I can't tell for sure. But a bent wheel won't cause the bar to pull to one side while riding. That's caused by misalignment of parts that support the wheel. If parts are needed, there are sources like partzilla.com, and you can check prices there.

You can get a petcock rebuild kit, or talk to Ducatiman, who rebuilds them reasonably.

Put a voltmeter's probes directly on the battery terminals while cranking or trying to crank, and read the voltage. That will tell you if the battery is the problem.

The clutch is adjusted externally. You need a copy of the shop manual. In the meantime, the How-To pages should help. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto
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Old January 23rd, 2024, 11:33 AM   #5
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If I get a replacement petcock, is the diaphragm and the gasket part of it? What other parts should I get with it to try to replace it?
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Old January 23rd, 2024, 11:50 AM   #6
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Yes, it's all one assembly. If you talk to @ducatiman about getting one of his rebuilt petcocks, I'm sure he can tell you anything you need to know about its installation.
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Old February 1st, 2024, 03:01 AM   #7
oldnewninjarider
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1. If there was some rust near the neck of gas tank, does tank need to be de-rusted and coated?

2. Will this kit definitely allow me to restore leaking/failed petcock, or is it possible other parts of the petcock failed also and still won't work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/31273403228...3ABFBMgvSjv6xj

3. Why don't some of the petcock repair kits show this o-ring part? (pic attached)

4. Throttle cable seems incorrectly long size/missing a cover, will this replace it all? https://www.ebay.com/itm/25638087519...Bk9SR77Hq96rYw

5. Is there any difference in a motionpro vinyl throttle cable?

Current list of known repairs needed, will have to pick up some tools, parts, gear.

1. Starter (ordered used. Can anyone share photo of how positive power cable connects to starter on their bike?).
2. Gas tank de-rust, clean, maybe coat (not sure if needed, but live in hot wet humid place. Current tank has a couple big dents, and a tiny rust spot on outside too, should it be replaced? Would then need to paint replacement tank too.
3. Petcock, fuel filter, hoses. (What kind do I need for fuel hoses?).
4. Throttle cable. (looking for used)
5. New spark plugs. (which ones do I want?)
6. Valve adjustment. (need OEM valve adjustment tool?)
7. Carb cleaning (can I do it myself if never worked on carbs, but done basic mechanical work before? Does it make sense to do any mods to these at this time to save future cost/work if planning to eventually do power mods?)
8. Chain clean, lube. Free play seemed close to spec. (What kind of lube?)
9. Clutch cable adjustment, possibly new springs (feels soft).
10. Tires
11. Front end and bars alignment, check forks for straightness, change to stiffer fork spring.
12. Weak/soft brakes service, check/clean/lube pistons, change pads, lines, flush/bleed fluid.

If can get all of this done with affordable used parts, and do most of it myself, hoping can get it running safe, well, and reliable for a reasonable cost.

Does it make sense to do any upgrades now while completing the above work, to avoid buying things won't need later and doing extra work now and again later to change them?
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Old February 1st, 2024, 11:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnewninjarider View Post
1. If there was some rust near the neck of gas tank, does tank need to be de-rusted and coated?
Assuming the rust isn't too serious, I get out the loose stuff that might cause trouble, make sure I have a good pleated paper filter, and I use the tank. I get out the loose rust by putting small gravel with some water in the tank and shaking it around until my arms are tired, rest and repeat a few times. Then I get the gravel out, rinse it thoroughly, and dry it. If you can reach the rusted area with sandpaper or a wire brush, you don't need the gravel.

I didn't use any special tool when I adjusted the valves on my '05.

@ducatiman can advise about carbs and petcock. I recommend sending your carbs to him for a full, like-new restoration. If you want to do it yourself, this might help: https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html
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Old February 1st, 2024, 12:46 PM   #9
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the gasket pic you posted is one from a "new-gen" (08 and upward) 92055-112

your petcock may have been changed with an updated, later model one? Please confirm otherwise a 92055-003 "pre-gen" o-ring would be correct.

i stock all the required parts to rebuild either gen petcock.
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Old February 1st, 2024, 07:41 PM   #10
oldnewninjarider
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The petcock seems to be the original pregen, it has OFF, ON, and reserve positions, which don't currently seem to work correctly, with the leaking.

Should this petcock kit contain everything needed to restore it, or is it possible a new petcock may be needed?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31273403228...3ABFBMgvSjv6xj

Is there a recommended carb rebuild kit also, would this work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30529966615...Bk9SR4rlnvqsYw

I'm hoping to try doing DIY first, maybe with help from a mechanic friend to minimize paying labor costs on top of parts. Any tips/suggestions/critical parts/to do's appreciated!

Does it make sense to do any upgrades now while completing all the above work, to avoid buying things won't need later and doing extra work again later to change them?
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Old February 2nd, 2024, 06:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnewninjarider View Post
The petcock seems to be the original pregen, it has OFF, ON, and reserve positions, which don't currently seem to work correctly, with the leaking.
in which case, your posted gasket pic is incorrect, not needed, actually supplied in your posted kit which should be correct.
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Old February 12th, 2024, 07:08 PM   #12
oldnewninjarider
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Is there both a pull cable and push throttle cable on the '05, and need both, or one?
Is a used OEM replacement fine?
What difference is there in a motionpro vinyl throttle cable?
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