October 9th, 2010, 07:14 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: JerZ
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninjette Posts: 131
|
Did I fail?
So guys,
The last thing I was doing on my bike today was changing the front brake pads. I followed the manual's directions of "disconnecting the brake hose from the caliper" as part of the process to remove the caliper and replace the pads. It didn't seem like the right thing to do, but the manual said it was a prerequisite for replacing the pads. This caused brake fluid to leak everywhere (obviously). Now that I have the caliper on with the new brake pads and hose reconnected, I can't feel any pressure on the handle after pumping 12+ times to regain control. There doesn't seem to be much fluid in the reservoir (a miniscule sliver in the view glass). Could I have drained so much fluid that I need to add/replace more to regain pressure? If so, do I only have to pour it in the reservoir or do I have to pour some into the caliper itself as well? Or is the pad wrong? Am I not recalibrating the lever and caliper correctly? Any ideas? I'm not riding until this is completely resolved. Thanks |
|
October 9th, 2010, 07:26 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brad
Location: Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2011 KTM 990 ADV Posts: 234
|
You need to bleed the brakes now. When you disconnect the lines, air gets in the system. Air is compressible, so you can't get enough pressure to force the pads into the rotor.
Bleeding brakes is a pretty simple procedure, I'm sure there are a ton of videos on youtube. Also, on ninja250.org: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...brake_lines%3F Edit: Forgot to add, there's no reason to disconnect the line to change the pads. |
|
October 9th, 2010, 07:28 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Cuong
Location: San Diego
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, 2007 Daytona 675 Posts: A lot.
|
Your manual said to disconnect the hose? That step isn't needed to just replace the pads. You definitely drained too much fluid if you aren't seeing anything in the reservoir. It should be between the min/max line. I recommend completely flushing out your brake fluid, fill with new fluid (not DOT 5) and bleeding them so the fluid is fresh with the same DOT.
For future reference, here's a thread with video on how to do your brakes in under 10 minutes. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=42344 It's just removing two bolts to remove caliper from rotor, remove two allens to drop out pads and put in new pads. Make sure to clean the calipers and pistons as well. What pads did you get btw? |
|
October 9th, 2010, 07:34 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: chris
Location: picayune,ms
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 93 kawi gpz500 Posts: 242
|
the tip the manuals dont tell you is that when you disconnect the brake line from the caliper your supposed to pull it straight up(the hose) and have it hanging from say like the handle bars. it will leak some but now where near enough.
if i do it the manuals way and pull the rotor, i always fill it back up when re-installing it, open the res cap and screw back on the hose. wait for the few bubbles to pop up and add whatever fluid dripped out, then continue to do a quick brake bleeding |
|
October 9th, 2010, 07:51 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: JerZ
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninjette Posts: 131
|
Thanks for the replies!
I used the popular EBC Organic brake pads sold by a local shop to me. Tomorrow I'll go out (in a functioning car!) to some big box auto store and pickup dot4 fluid and a brake bleeding hose. In one video I saw, a guy used a special one from advance for $6. Not bad. But I can't shake the feeling that even when bleeding brakes there should be at least a smidgm of pressure in the line but there isn't now. I'll keep you guys posted. Oh yeah, and no more religiously following the manual. F--- that. |
|
October 9th, 2010, 10:40 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
|
Brake pad replacement is on pg. 12-12 in the service manual. No where does it say to remove the brake line from the caliper. What does yours say?
In any case, bleed the system with brake fluid of your choice and pressure to the lever will return. |
|
October 10th, 2010, 07:33 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: JerZ
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninjette Posts: 131
|
Got it. Pressure is firm now. Tests had the front brake working extremely well. I'll go back out and test some more after a couple of little things. Here's the pic from my manual and my "G2 Brake Bleeder". Time to find a better manual too.
http://img827.imageshack.us/i/dsc00007lz.jpg/ http://img221.imageshack.us/i/dsc00008cc.jpg/ |
|
October 10th, 2010, 11:25 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
|
Dan,
Sorry, I was using a new gen manual. I didn't see we were talking about a pregen, but regardless, you do not need to break the line to replace the pads. Is your manual a Kawasaki factory service manual? Glad everything worked out for you. Keep an eye on the front brake pressure as it's sometimes difficult to get all of the air out and you may need to rebleed it after some use (front brake will start to feel "mushy"). |
|
October 10th, 2010, 03:01 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: JerZ
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninjette Posts: 131
|
Yeah it's a kawi manual.
But (lol...man this would explain things) I think its the wrong year. It looks like the previous owner gave me the right basic manual and supplement manual but handed me an 86-87 service manual. Maybe those 86-87 owners complained and demanded a new writeup without the cable. Who knows. On the bright side, I have new brake fluid AND I learned more about brakes than I would have otherwise. Not a bad deal overall. |
|
October 10th, 2010, 03:06 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
|
any time you learn something new from working on your bike, it adds to your knowledge base and experience level, which is always a good thing. have fun with future little jobs on your bike.
|
|
October 10th, 2010, 03:52 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: John
Location: Caledonia, Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): Honda, Buell, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha Posts: 170
|
Now if you feel you still have a little mush after bleeding.... take a velcro strap or something similar and bind the front brake down over night to the grip. Any residual air will dissipate overnight, recheck your level.
|
|
October 12th, 2010, 12:43 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.
|
Huh?
__________________________________________________
09 250R SE: Paying it forward one post at a time! Don't forget to add yourself to our Member Map |
|
October 12th, 2010, 08:23 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: JerZ
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 05 Ninjette Posts: 131
|
not a bad idea.
now my clutch isnt catching 1st-N-2nd all the time..... siiiiiggggh I think my cable is going... next weekends project |
|
October 12th, 2010, 08:46 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ed
Location: NJ
Join Date: Dec 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250r Posts: 157
|
Yeah, it's better if you catch it before you hit the road, otherwise you'll be pushing it home (ask me how I know). It's a pretty simple job..took all of 30 minutes to replace.
|
|
October 12th, 2010, 09:34 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
|
Yup, it's an old trick that has some validity to it. Bleed the crap out of it, do it as carefully as possible, but then a velcro strap holding pressure on the lever overnight can in fact get the last little bit taken care of over time.
__________________________________________________
Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered) |
|
October 13th, 2010, 04:35 AM | #16 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
A little trick I like. Once I have all new fluid in the system and I'm now just concentrating on removing air, I like to run a small tube from the bleeder on the caliper back to the reservoir. This allows the fluid to continuously cycle till I have removed all the air. Helps not to waste so much fluid too.
__________________________________________________
09 250R SE: Paying it forward one post at a time! Don't forget to add yourself to our Member Map Last futzed with by dubojr1; October 13th, 2010 at 04:35 AM. Reason: spelling |
|
|
October 22nd, 2010, 06:51 PM | #17 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: John
Location: Atlanta
Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2003 250 Posts: 333
|
Quote:
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Fail compilation (featuring Ninjette wheelie fail) | ninjamunky85 | Videos | 3 | September 24th, 2013 03:44 AM |
GoPro Fail | Jiggles | General Motorcycling Discussion | 27 | September 3rd, 2012 06:33 PM |
shimming fail | toua70 | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 13 | June 13th, 2012 07:55 PM |
epic fail | zilaniz | General Motorcycling Discussion | 8 | November 22nd, 2010 07:20 PM |
Twisties Fail | LuxMundi | Ride Reports | 21 | February 16th, 2010 09:44 PM |
|
|