October 4th, 2012, 06:33 PM | #1 |
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Bike not wanting to rev past ~5k while driving
So I'm just driving along just fine and all of a sudden my bike gets this bogged down sound and it won't go past 5k rpms in any gear, as if the rev limiter is kicking in. I did get it up to 7k on a long straightaway but very briefly. I looked at the spark plugs and they look fine. I put a new fuel filter on tonight and rode it (after the problem started; old filter was warped), same problem (slightly better). I synced the carbs because I was planning on that anyways as well.....
The bike DOES however, redline in neutral! Not sure if it does with the clutch pulled in while in gear though........ The oil was topped off before I rode and I got a good 40 miles in before the problem started happening..... any ideas? |
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October 4th, 2012, 07:41 PM | #2 |
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What else has changed? New exhaust? Check airbox and filter. Did the bike sit for a while?
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October 4th, 2012, 08:01 PM | #3 |
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October 4th, 2012, 08:03 PM | #4 |
The Corner Whisperer
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Bad tank of gas?
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October 4th, 2012, 08:06 PM | #5 |
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Did you check your air filter?
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October 4th, 2012, 08:07 PM | #6 |
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my cbr did this when the rings blew out. Not saying thats it but just an experience
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October 4th, 2012, 08:36 PM | #7 |
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October 4th, 2012, 08:38 PM | #8 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
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Check it, see if its wet, dirty, or has engine oil in the airbox
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October 4th, 2012, 08:38 PM | #9 |
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October 4th, 2012, 08:39 PM | #10 |
Jigglin' your Jiglets
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If you were running really rich (clogged air filter) that would be one reason
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October 4th, 2012, 08:50 PM | #11 |
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If it sounds funny, and suddenly has half power, it sure seems like you're running on only one cylinder.
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October 5th, 2012, 01:03 AM | #12 |
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October 5th, 2012, 03:43 AM | #13 |
The Corner Whisperer
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Mice build a nest in the airbox? Sounds like a starvation problem, gas or air. My vote is on gas.
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October 5th, 2012, 10:22 AM | #14 |
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Checked air filter and it looked fine.
Is it possible that something in the fuel line clogged the carbs?? It happened while I was driving.... |
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October 5th, 2012, 10:33 AM | #15 |
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Plugged main jet?
Something clogged up one or both?
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October 5th, 2012, 10:35 AM | #16 |
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Name: dan
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Plugged up snorkel?
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October 5th, 2012, 11:32 AM | #17 |
wat
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it sounds like only one of your main jets is clogged.
run it then mist the headers with water. one will boil and evaporate the water instantly while the other will take considerably longer. the one that is cooler is the one you want to look at.
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October 5th, 2012, 12:10 PM | #18 |
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I take it now would be a good time to learn how to rebuild or at least clean my carbs since the bike is about 12 years old and I'm almost certain has never been cleaned before............
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October 5th, 2012, 12:45 PM | #19 |
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October 5th, 2012, 08:44 PM | #20 |
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When doing the carb cleaning, are there kits I can buy with nice replacement parts such as gaskets/screws/needles/washers? What are the minimum tools needed to do this job? I already have carb cleaner but I'd be up for replacing any o-rings/gaskets if they're cheap enough...
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October 5th, 2012, 11:08 PM | #21 |
Long Time Rider
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Did you by chance remove the carb boots at all? If so, you may want to check them for leaks. Too much air can also cause the symptoms you have.
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Troubleshooting_Guide Poor Running at Low Speed: Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner duct loose |
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October 6th, 2012, 11:15 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
It still gets me that it won't go about ~5k rpms even in first gear though....but fine in neutral/clutch in |
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October 6th, 2012, 01:33 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
The resistance of the tires and mass of the bike is enough to move the rpms' back to the zone of better torque (lower rpms'). Did you check if one cylinder is dead (cold)? Wasn't this the bike having spark only on one side?
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October 6th, 2012, 03:11 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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October 6th, 2012, 03:12 PM | #25 |
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October 6th, 2012, 04:05 PM | #26 |
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Check the boots that connect the carbs to the airbox. Are those spring clamps on there good and snug? Are they leaking air? Did they come off completely?
This sounds like the same thing that happened to a friend's bike. The airbox popped off and it would suck under WOT, but we could baby it up to redline with small throttle openings. and trust me, your bike with make it to darn near redline on one cylinder. It just takes a while. Been there, done that |
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October 6th, 2012, 04:29 PM | #27 |
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Check electrical connections to the coils. Wiggle the connectors while motor is running, any change and you found the problem.
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October 6th, 2012, 09:28 PM | #28 |
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I'm looking through my ninja haynes manual, and I see this: "Also make sure that the end of the carburetor vent tube is not placed near the air intake. This will cause fuel starvation, resulting in poor performance above 3,500 rpm and a maximum engine speed of 5,000 rpm." (P. 4-5)
Source: Haynes Service & Repair Manual Kawasaki Ninja 250, Haynes North America Inc, Newberry Park, CA. |
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October 6th, 2012, 09:58 PM | #29 |
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Do I really have to spend $60 to rebuild my carbs??? How in the world is there nothing cheaper
http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-05-KAWASA...f74a05&vxp=mtr |
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October 6th, 2012, 11:24 PM | #30 |
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For $60, just buy a entire new petcock assembly. The rebuild kit is normally ~$30
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October 7th, 2012, 12:03 AM | #31 |
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October 7th, 2012, 08:42 AM | #32 |
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Oh, wow I somehow got it in my head that you wanted to rebuild the petcock and I was suggesting you just replace the petcock instead of repairing it.
I'm sorry about any confusion I caused. |
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October 7th, 2012, 11:09 AM | #33 | |
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Quote:
Is it possible to POD the bike with stock exhaust and jets or do I have to rejet? |
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October 7th, 2012, 11:14 AM | #34 |
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Stock exhaust, yes. Stock jets, no. You'll likely be running a 108 or 110 main jet with a pod intake and stock exhaust.
If I were you, I'd get your bike figured out and fixed before you start making changes. It's easier not to introduce more variable into the mix when you're fixing things. |
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October 7th, 2012, 07:34 PM | #35 | |
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Quote:
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October 7th, 2012, 07:44 PM | #36 |
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Good! That should help a lot if it's the first one that's been done. Mine always starts better after a valve job.
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October 8th, 2012, 10:36 PM | #37 |
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Took carbs apart tonight and cleaned them. Looks like there is a tear on the outer rim of one of the diaphrams but I put it back together the best I could and hopefully it will work.
My decelleration cable seems it may be broken as there is no pullback from it at all......hopefully this isn't the case. It can be pulled a couple of inches without retracting any.... I will try the adjustment procedure and hope for the best for that as well. |
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October 9th, 2012, 06:37 AM | #38 |
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Decel cable should be cheap to replace.
There's a DIY from theduck on how to fix those diaphragms. I think that's what's causing your issues. You could try gorilla glue or a bicycle tube repair kit. I'll look around for that DIY for you. EDIT: I found the DIY for you. http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...patch-diy.html |
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October 9th, 2012, 09:51 AM | #39 |
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Ok thanks! I'll try this out if my bike still messes up. I'm about to crank it up in a minute actually to sync the carbs but I have to throw a new chain on before I can ride it.
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October 9th, 2012, 10:16 AM | #40 |
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Fix the torn diaphragm first, it will change everything else. Remember, known problems are the low-hanging fruit and you want to get them *all* out of the way before proceeding to the more complex issues.
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