July 18th, 2012, 09:21 PM | #1 |
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Name: Theo
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Adjusting Throttle Cable - Barrel adjusters and Throttle body adjusters are maxed out
Does anyone know how to adjust (tighten up) the throttle cable when the barrel adjusters on the bars is maxed out and the adjuster on the side of the carburator is similarly maxed out? I thought that I would be able to reclamp the throttle wire somewhere and start afresh, but there are knobs on each end of the wire so that is not the way it works.
Any ideas? My throttle is fairly loose. |
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July 19th, 2012, 04:19 AM | #2 |
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Try taking up some of the slack with the adjustment nuts on the bracket on the carbs.
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July 19th, 2012, 05:50 AM | #3 |
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New cable
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July 19th, 2012, 08:51 AM | #4 |
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All of the available slack has been taken up on both the carbs side as well as the throttle side.
Do they make throttle cables in different lengths? |
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July 19th, 2012, 09:24 AM | #5 |
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Yes, they do. But throttle cables can stretch over time, so unless the bike has been modified somehow to need a shorter one, chances are you just need a new one of the stock length.
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July 19th, 2012, 09:50 AM | #6 |
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Is that happening to a Ninjette or to one of your other bikes?
It was better before? If the cables are original, one of them may be breaking up, which is sometimes a slow process that produces some elongation before final rupture. Check the portions were each cable is bent because it is there where they normally fail.
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July 19th, 2012, 12:28 PM | #7 | |
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Name: Theo
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Quote:
Is it possible that I routed the wire incorrectly and that is either pulling on the housing too much or, most likely, not enough? I haven't had the bike for very long so I do not know it's past history. I've only ridden it on the track once. Last futzed with by theob; July 19th, 2012 at 12:29 PM. Reason: More information |
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July 19th, 2012, 12:54 PM | #8 |
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The damage doesn't happen to the housing normally, but to the strands of steel wires.
It starts with a few wires breaking, and it progress until the remaining strands start elongating under the stress. You can learn more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable I would take both cables out for a clean up and full inspection. If they are OK, then they may not be original.
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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July 19th, 2012, 01:00 PM | #9 | |
ninjette.org newbie
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Quote:
Maybe that's part of the problem? |
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July 19th, 2012, 04:58 PM | #10 |
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Yes, indeed.
These bikes have a a secondary (closing / Part # 54012-0211) cable that forces the carburetor's butterfly valve (throttle) to return to the closed position. It is a safety feature, in case the return spring in the carburetors fail. Do you have a user's or service manual? I suspect that the primary cable (opening / Part # 54012-0210) was replaced by the secondary cable, which is slightly different and doesn't work with the adjustable guides of the primary.
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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July 19th, 2012, 05:01 PM | #11 |
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If your throttle cable isn't snapping back quickly (aka feels sticky) the problem could be the routing. I don't know if you're running stock but I've run in the same problem in after market throttle cables. I had to find the perfect position for my throttle / throttle cables so that the cable doesn't have much kink in it limiting is free movement. try rotating the whole throttle tube around your handle bar and see if there's a point where it moves freely and snaps back firmly.
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