Woodcraft Clipons from 250R to 300R

[Peanut_EOD]

Today I put my Woodcraft clipons with the 2 1/2" riser on my 300 and put some clipons without risers on my race bike. I need to shave the corners of the triple clamp to get a little more sweep out of them. I also dropped the forks flush with the triple clamp. Plenty of clearance all over.

[csmith12]

Are those lock to lock pics?

[Peanut_EOD]

Not necessarily, but it does go lock to lock without issues. It clears all bodywork.

[Alex]

Looks good!

[adouglas]

I'd never mess with my steering geometry just to get body clearance.

Just my $0.02.

What's the clearance like with the forks in their normal spot?

[Peanut_EOD]

Originally Posted by adouglas

I'd never mess with my steering geometry just to get body clearance.

Just my $0.02.

What's the clearance like with the forks in their normal spot?

Its the same. The two things have nothing to do with each other.

[choneofakind]

Looking good Peanut, as usual. Is that a stainless brake line I see as well?

Just curious, wouldn't you want to raise the forks in the triples a little to make the geometry a little more aggressive, rather than lowering them so they're flush with the triple? I know I raised my forks as far as my WC lowered risers would allow, which was only about 1/4"

[Peanut_EOD]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Looking good Peanut, as usual. Is that a stainless brake line I see as well?

Just curious, wouldn't you want to raise the forks in the triples a little to make the geometry a little more aggressive, rather than lowering them so they're flush with the triple? I know I raised my forks as far as my WC lowered risers would allow, which was only about 1/4"

Those are braided lines. I used the set I took off of my 600. I put the longer one in the front and the shorter on in the rear. I'm not worried about raising the front because I also raise the rear. No aggressiveness lost.

[Peanut_EOD]

Here are some pics.

[choneofakind]

Ah nice! More ground clearance then. I figured you had done something else as well. That's why I asked. I think your bike becomes more interesting the more I learn about it.

[Peanut_EOD]

Thank you. I'm dying to get this one on the track. Still waiting for some race bodywork.

[choneofakind]

I'm dying to see what kind of results you get with a new map. I'm assuming you're going to be adding a full exhaust once they're on the market?

Let us know what you think of the brake feel with the stainless lines. Alex seems to think the parts of the front non-ABS brake are identical to the 250, but they don't feel the same. I'm curious about them.

I'm debating picking up a 300 in a couple years, but if the brakes still suck, I'll just do a used engine transplant (when needed) and an 08+ suspension conversion on my pregen and call it a day; my pregen will live forever if I can't find another bike to fill its place

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by Peanut_EOD

Its the same. The two things have nothing to do with each other.

Duh. Of course.

Consider me dope-slapped.

[adouglas]

Follow-up question:

I have Shinto clip-ons on my 08, which are more adjustable than the WCs. I have them set as drooped I can get them (i.e. with the bar ends pointing down as much as possible… my hands are rotated to a more thumbs-up position). It's not as much as you'll find on a SS bike but definitely more than stock.

The limiting factor on clearance is the control housings hitting the upper surface of the side fairings at full lock. I even put a scratch in the RH fairing while setting them up.

To see what I mean by "droop:"



I prefer the bars to be like the one on the left side of this photo (the bike's right handlebar).

If you're not familiar with the newgen bodywork….



See the lateral ridge on the black fairing bits? That's the spot.

On the 300, is there anything like that?

Would love to see a head-on shot with the front wheel straight (like the Daytona photo above) to see how much angle there is.

[Somchai]

Originally Posted by adouglas

Follow-up question:

I have Shinto clip-ons on my 08, which are more adjustable than the WCs. I have them set as drooped I can get them (i.e. with the bar ends pointing down as much as possible… my hands are rotated to a more thumbs-up position). It's not as much as you'll find on a SS bike but definitely more than stock.

The limiting factor on clearance is the control housings hitting the upper surface of the side fairings at full lock. I even put a scratch in the RH fairing while setting them up.

To see what I mean by "droop:"



I prefer the bars to be like the one on the left side of this photo (the bike's right handlebar).

If you're not familiar with the newgen bodywork….



See the lateral ridge on the black fairing bits? That's the spot.

On the 300, is there anything like that?

Would love to see a head-on shot with the front wheel straight (like the Daytona photo above) to see how much angle there is.

Andrew, is it this you would like to see with the WC's?



I've adjusted them 25mm to the inside, 50mm deeper, 30mm more to the front and 25° backwards compared to the stock ones.
At least maybe it's not exactly the same like yours but quiet near.

[adouglas]

Yes… here's the same view of a stock bike for comparison

[Peanut_EOD]

Originally Posted by adouglas

If you're not familiar with the newgen bodywork….



See the lateral ridge on the black fairing bits? That's the spot.

On the 300, is there anything like that?

Would love to see a head-on shot with the front wheel straight (like the Daytona photo above) to see how much angle there is.

I am very familiar with Newgen bodywork. I race a 250. That ridge is not present on the 300.