June 28th, 2009, 05:52 PM | #1 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Stacey
Location: Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 Posts: 32
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DIY- Replace fork seals, dust seals and fork oil
Requisite tools:
EDIT: From a later post in this thread: Quote:
First you need to take off the side cowels, the lower fairings, the radiator fairing, and the front fender. Great reference for fairing removal. Note how the rubber piece in the photo has deteriorated-- this is like a bumper for the threads, and if they're as crappy as mine are (and my bike is only a year old) then you may want to replace them, or be wary if they tear in the removal process. You need them to put the fairing back on. Once you've got the fairings off, you need to get the front wheel off the ground. You do not need any special stands to do this. As you can see, I need to order spools and a rear stand, but made do with some bolts and jacks. We placed a car jack underneath the center of the engine, and if its sqaure, the bike should be very stable when lifted. Bend the metal that's holding the brake line and pull off the brake caliper, but make sure to bunjee or tie it to the bike so the hose is relaxed and not bearing weight (as you can see with the red bunjee in the picture below). Remove the speedo cable (pliars do the trick) and the bolts holding the black piece thats underneath the fender. Using a 22mm socket wrench on one side, and a 17mm on the other, twist the axel nuts loose and remove the front wheel. Now you need to get the forks off! Unscrew the four bolts holding down the handlebars, and drape the clip-ons over the side. You'll see black plugs in each fork tube. Removing these is significantly easier with a second set of hands: One person needs to push down on the plug with a large screwdriver while the other person uses pliars or a small flathead to remove the metal clip. Once these are out, you need to loosen up the two clamps holding the fork (picture) and then gently slide the fork down and out. Keep the fork vertical until you're ready to pour out the oil. Pull out the spring and washer from the tube, and then flip it over and let it drain. Pump it a few times to get out the oil. Next, put the cylinder in the bench vice and use the allen wrench from the tool set to loosen the bolt that is at the bottom of the lower cylinder. This did not require a lot of torque to loosen, and there will be a little oil left. Check the bolt and washer for wear and tear, and replace these if necessary. Now remove the dust seal. Gently prying it up and out with a box blade should do the trick. Then use a small flathead to pry off the metal clip that is underneath the dust seal. Don't lose this! To separate the cylinder simple yank the two pieces apart a few times. Not too wimpy, but don't lose your grip either. The inner cylinder will pop right out. Here's what you'll be looking at once you pull everything apart: Inside the lower cylinder is a pin with a small spring and a silver tapered cap. These will fall out once you pull the fork apart. Clean and dry everything, and pull off the old oil seals (pictured below). Inspect the copper bushing and washer for any dings/chips or damages. Use the steel wool to gently rub out any imperfections on the tubes and bushings. This is the time to make sure everything is smooth and clean. You don't have to take off the bushing and washer unless you want to. Now it's time to put the fork back together. Put the pin with the tiny spring through the fork tube and screw on the silver cap with the tapered end towards the top of the fork. Then place this back into the lower (black)cylinder. Put service-removable locktite on the bolt that goes into the bottom cylinder, and screw it in by hand to make sure everything lines up. Put the fork back in the vice and torque the bolt snug. Slide the copper bushing down the fork into the lower cylinder, followed by the washer. Use the PVC pipe and a few good hits to knock these about a 1/2 inch down into the lower cylinder. They sink to a certain point-- you don't want to hammer them out the other end. Now slide the new oil seal down the fork (a little oil on the inside lip helps) and slide the old oil seal down on top of it. As photo'd, you will knock the PVC pipe on the old seal, and when you're done the old seal will sit flush with the lower cylinder. Gently pry it back out with a box blade and discard. Next slide down the metal clip, and finally the new dust seal. Take the fork and slide it back up through the two clamps so that it sits 12mm above the surface of the triple tree. Make sure to measure the two forks the same way so that they're even (second set of hands is helpful here) Snug the clamps once your forks are at the appropriate height. Measure again to make sure they're even. Put the long spring back into the tube, then the washer, then the collar. The exact amount of oil is 12.2oz, so we measured 12oz on the slightly generous side. The important thing is that there is the exact same amount of oil in each fork. Because you pulled out everything, and dried everything, you can refill by volume. If you're just changing the oil and do not disassmble the forks, you would measure the distance of air between the top of the fork and the oil level. Use the funnel to slowly pour in the fork oil. If any of it overflows, you'll have to do it all over again, and that's just no fun. Putting the black caps back on the forks is easier than taking them off, simply push down with the screwdriver and put the clip back in. Re-assembly is self-explanatory, and I would highly reccommend keeping your bolts organized (another DIY thread) I hope this makes things easier for anyone else willing to get their hands dirty! (2 pdf's attached, second one might print better; the content should be the same between the two) |
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June 28th, 2009, 05:56 PM | #2 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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nice job on the diy - were yours leaking or were you just putting in heavier weight oil
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June 28th, 2009, 06:08 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Stacey
Location: Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 Posts: 32
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My right fork seal was leaking. I was very frustrated because the bike has a less than 1600 miles on it, but once we pulled everything apart we found a pretty decent-sized chip of metal on the copper bushing and a scratch on the inside of the lower cylinder about 6-8mm long (circled in the photo) which was likely causing the leak.
I smoothed out the chip and the scratch, and hopefully that will do the trick. Otherwise I know which parts I'll need to replace. I bought the bike with 800 miles on it, and I don't know if the kid tried wheelies on it, or if it was just poor workmanship on Kawasaki's part. Or maybe just really bad luck? Who knows |
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June 28th, 2009, 06:13 PM | #4 |
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thanks for the DIY
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June 28th, 2009, 06:46 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org dude
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Nice job! Will add it to the list right now...
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June 28th, 2009, 07:40 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Great job, Stacey!!
Who's the mechanic? |
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June 28th, 2009, 07:45 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Matt
Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University
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First off I'd like to say thank you for doing such a great DIY. I was thinking about getting my front forks powdercoated and now if I decide to do this I know how to take them off. Noob question time. Changing the fork oil to something heavier would make the front suspension less prone to diving under breaking(Without changing the springs) correct? I know this isn't what you were trying to accomplish but just wondering.
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June 28th, 2009, 07:46 PM | #8 |
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and the knowledge base grows
nice job!
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June 28th, 2009, 07:47 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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heavier oil, more oil or stiffer springs will stiffen up the front end.
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June 28th, 2009, 08:04 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Matt
Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914
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Thanks Kelly...heavier oil seems like the cheapest way to go. When I get back home ill check my manual and see what we have in there stock and figure out a more appropriate weight for what I want...has anyone changed their oil out to something heavier for this reason?
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June 28th, 2009, 10:28 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Actually, Matt... putting a bit more oil in there would be the easiest. Pop the cap, pour in about an ounce of suitable oil and see how you like it. If that doesn't help, then consider going to a heavier oil.
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June 29th, 2009, 04:36 AM | #12 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Great job Stacey! Thanks, now I know that I don't need the front stand I was thinking about.
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June 29th, 2009, 08:47 AM | #13 |
Psychic war veteran
Name: Thomas
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Awesome write up, good deal!
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June 29th, 2009, 08:59 AM | #14 |
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Great job!
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July 1st, 2009, 05:40 PM | #15 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Stacey
Location: Maryland
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Quote:
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August 13th, 2009, 04:06 AM | #16 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: josh
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Cheers for the writeup! Got my forks in pieces ATM because I bent the tubes in a lowside, this will give me a bit more of an idea how to get them back togethor! But I dont have new seals I can just hit the pipe onto just the one seals, yeah?
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August 13th, 2009, 04:59 AM | #17 | |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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August 14th, 2009, 10:58 AM | #18 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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FYI - It is easier assemble the forks out of the triples.
After they are completely assembled, then stab 'em into the triples. |
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September 28th, 2009, 04:45 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Michelle
Location: Covina, CA
Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 89
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This probably will sound like a stupid question, but, how do you know if you need to replace the fork seals? How often is this done?
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September 28th, 2009, 05:12 PM | #20 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.
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it'll leak and you'll see oil going down your fork, tires and such.
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October 4th, 2009, 09:12 PM | #21 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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How much are the replacement seals and such? Where did you buy them?
OK, I just re-read and saw the "OEM, $51" part... I'm assuming that you got them from a dealer. Anyway, I'd like to go ahead and add stiffer springs and heavier fork oil while I'm at it, especially if it's going to cost me another $51 if I have to take it apart again. Where should I look? Last futzed with by CZroe; October 5th, 2009 at 09:14 AM. |
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October 6th, 2009, 11:06 AM | #22 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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Get the seals from the dealer. They are the same #'s as the ones from K&L, K&S but they don't leak. I used 3 different K&S and/or K&L seals and they all leaked within 20 minutes at the track. I think because the only bike that used them was from the 80's, so they were probably old. The OEM ones worked fine.
This was on the new gen forks. The older gen seals from those Co's work fine. |
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October 6th, 2009, 12:23 PM | #23 |
CVMA #74 WSMC #750
Name: Nemesis
Location: On the track
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Subscribed!
Thx! |
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January 21st, 2010, 10:15 AM | #24 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Amber
Location: Beaverton
Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: 1
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Has anyone rebuild the forks in an attempt to stop a wobble in the front tire? I've heard that this may be a problem with the 250s. I'm not sure how much effort I should put into fixing this challenge. If I let go of the handle bars, the front end wants to wobble.The tire appears to be in good condition. I am going to check the alignment of the rear wheel, to make sure it is not contributing to the issue.
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January 21st, 2010, 09:28 PM | #25 |
ninjette.org dude
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For front end wobble info, check out:
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Front_End_Wobbles and http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13288
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February 17th, 2010, 03:46 PM | #26 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Stacey
Location: Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 Posts: 32
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The irony of this thread is that after going through all the work to replace the seals, my fork started leaking again a few months later. For now I'm just wiping up the residual oil, but at some point I have to get a whole new fork tube. fml.
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February 17th, 2010, 04:12 PM | #27 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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Why would you need a new tube?
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February 17th, 2010, 04:16 PM | #28 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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Oh, maybe it is because you used steel wool. You should use 400 -600 sand paper. Wrap your hand around the tube w/ sandpaper in between and spin tube back and forth throughout the whole tube. To get a cross-hatch pattern. This will usually get rid of those up/down scores from debris. That might be what has caused a leak so soon. Steel wool won't work good enough. And yes, you have to remove the bushings. Easy though.
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February 17th, 2010, 07:54 PM | #29 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Stacey
Location: Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 Posts: 32
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I don't think it was the steel wool. When I pulled apart the leaking fork I found the smallest of scratches in the inner tube where the bushing sits. I rubbed it out and hoped that would suffice, but it seems to be enough of a defect that I'm going to need to replace the part. It started leaking about two weeks after the 1-year warranty had expired
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March 7th, 2010, 01:20 AM | #30 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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OK, I'm guessing "Set of new oil seals and new dust seals" translates to "set of new fork seals and wiper seals," correct? I ask because CheapCycleParts has "Leak Proof Fork Seals" for $20.66 and "Leak Proof Wiper Seals" for $16.16, both supposedly for our bike. They also have "Leak Proof Pro Moly Fork Seals" for $25.16 (sold in a set with the wiper seals for $33.26). I'm guessing the "Pro Moly" ones are some kind of "deluxe" or "premium" seal compared to the $20.66 set. Moly is a kind of grease, so is one greased and one not? Hmm.
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March 9th, 2010, 10:59 AM | #31 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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Never use Leak Proof seals. They leak.
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March 9th, 2010, 02:18 PM | #32 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.
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Always use Leak For Sure seals..They don't leak.
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March 9th, 2010, 06:54 PM | #33 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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May 25th, 2010, 11:55 AM | #34 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Roman
Location: Atlanta
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Hello I have a 2008 ninja with 1400 miles on it with this same problem, except its on the left fork. Does anyone know if Bike Bandit is a reputable OEM parts distributor for these bikes? Here is the link.
What parts are the most likely to go bad? I'm assuming I just need to order the Spacer(92026), Copper Bushing(44065A) and Seal(92049)? Do I need to replace the inner(44065A) or outter(44065) bushing? Thanks for any help guys. I'm kind of disappointed in the supposedly legendary quality of these Japanese bikes. Seems really soon to have such a major defect |
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May 25th, 2010, 12:14 PM | #35 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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You only need to replace the oil seals unless you have been riding w/ bent forks.
Any OEM dealer or OEM parts supplier (R&T Suspension) will work. Just make sure these are OEM. |
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June 13th, 2011, 09:36 PM | #36 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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how do i take the fork apart (inner cylinder i think)? i tried pulling it apart but its not working. I tried it with someone pulling the bottom part and I tried pulling the other part but I cant get them to seperate with a lot of force. Also... I tried loosening the allen bolt on the bottle of the fork, I had to use A LOT of force.. So much force that I had to use pliers on the allen wrench to loosen it... After I loosened it, i cant get the bolt to come out.. It just keeps turning/loosening but its not coming out.
Please help |
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June 14th, 2011, 07:45 AM | #37 | |
ModMy250.com
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Quote:
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June 14th, 2011, 04:08 PM | #38 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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Quote:
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June 15th, 2011, 06:30 PM | #39 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Aaron
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SWEET JOB STACEY! my front forks are getting soft and Im at 20k miles on the odometer so its over due for fresh oil. This will help me save alot of cash, thanks bro.
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June 15th, 2011, 10:25 PM | #40 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Raymond
Location: San Francisco
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 White Posts: 11
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Quote:
Just wanted to let you know so you can save A LOT of time. And you need to take the allen bolt off before you try to yank apart the bottom part and the top part (black part and silver part.... i think its inner forks? i dont know whats it called) If you don't take out the allen bolt, you can't take it out even with 2 people.... I tried... |
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