First Synthetic Oil Change

[LoneRonin]

Originally Posted by adouglas

- Put LOWER THE KICK STAND, STUPID! sign over ignition switch so I don't drop the bike the following spring

Why not just leave the stand down, even if its on stands...?

[adouglas]

Because then I'll bark my shins on it over the winter. The bike lives in my workshop.

Just one more thing I don't have to think about months after the fact.

[Alex]

OK - 3-letter searching works at this point. People can search on "oil" to their heart's content; the problem is it will bring up a million threads.

[SafetyPaws]

Originally Posted by adouglas

I will note that a lot of folks like Shell Rotella T, a synthetic marketed for diesel engines which is inexpensive (blue 1-gallon jug, available at Wal-Mart).

A lot of peeps here also recommended the Shell Rotella T6 - i called a local shop, the closest shop next to me is a honda/suzuki dealership. They said they do not sell the shell and asks why i wanted non bike specific oil. They also said it was meant for diseal engines and if i wanted it i would have to go to like walmart or meijer that have it cheap. I saw in @Jiggles DIY that he uses it aswell.

They recommended mobile 1 full synthetic and they also had a Honda full synthetic (i did not catch the name). I use the honda GN4 (i think thats it - regular conventional oil currently). I know these oil debates can go on forever and i know remember what you said earlier something along the lines of if your woried about it stick with OEM cause that wont hurt the engine - but i still need some light shed. Disel engine oil is fine for our wet clutch without those JASo and other ratings? Just want to make sure I am not one ruining the bike in anyway shape or form for long term effects and two decreasing performance.

[Black knight]

I just bought a ninja 2009! And I want to switch it to synthetic as of not its conventional. It has about 6300 miles! Please help me in which one should I choose! And what brand and number. I am a newbie. Thank you

[csmith12]

[ninjamunky85]

This is what I, and a lot of members here use.



Once I started using this oil I never looked back. I use it in both my bikes and my truck.

[Black knight]

Can I use the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w-40? Which one is better?

[csmith12]

Neither here nor there on which is better. However there is huge difference in price.

[ninjamunky85]

You can, but for me the extra cost isn't justified. Motorcycle specific oils are mainly used because of the wet clutch on our bikes. Some oils can cause clutch slippage.

Shell Rotella T6 causes no problems with the clutch. It's used by a lot of bikers, not just members here.

[Black knight]

Oh okay thank you! One question, after I drain the old oil out and put in the new synthetic oil! What should I do! Is their a specific way I should ride the bike? Like at high revs? Or keep them low?

[csmith12]

Nope, just ride as you normally would. Some have done oil changes right before track time others just before their normal commute, the result is the 99% the same.

[choneofakind]

there's no break-in procedure for oil. Just wait for it to get up to temp then ride like you always do.

Remember: no matter what oil you choose, the most important part is to change regularly and change often. Your bike will thank you.

[Joshorilla]

This is the greatest myth of the 21st century. Engine oil was engine oil, it was for engines, then it got called bike oil and car oil, look at weights not what it's "for" as that's a misnomer.

[ninjamunky85]

There are a lot of myths when it comes to oil, and that's what most of them are "myths".

I found the Mobil 1 faq site to have a lot of useful knowledge. I discovered it after a friend and I were having a heated discussion about "ZDDP".

[Black knight]

Okay thank you! And is it necessary to change the filter also? If so what number should I get? As of now a k and n is installed

[ninjamunky85]

Might not be necessary to change the filter, but since they only cost a few bucks there's no reason not to.

I just buy fram filters for my bike. I can get them at most local auto parts stores. Advance Auto Parts is usually where I get them.

[Alex]

/merged with similar "which synth oil?" thread

[Black knight]

Originally Posted by ninjamunky85

Might not be necessary to change the filter, but since they only cost a few bucks there's no reason not to.

I just buy fram filters for my bike. I can get them at most local auto parts stores. Advance Auto Parts is usually where I get them.

is there a specific size that I should buy? Or are they the same?

[ninjamunky85]

Fram: CH6012 But that's for the pre-gen. I dunno if the one for the new bike is the same or not.

Alternatively if you have a local stealership close buy you can get one from there. That's what I did until I learned I could use the Fram one. The Kawasaki on wasn't much more expensive though, plus you would know for sure that it would fit.

[Alex]

/merged a couple more "which synth oil" threads

[gallardo73]

i personally like amsoil 10w 40 synthetic

[TedBull]

My local auto stores sells Mobile 1 MC synthetic 10-40 for $8 cheaper per quart.

I have always used Mobile1. I like it. Oil comes out still looking good after 3,000 - 5,000 miles. I change it yearly regardless of miles. I always change the filter as well regardless of miles.

[menikmati]

You can't judge if an oil is still "good" solely by how it looks.

An oil analysis would provide information in how the engine is wearing and the overall condition of the oil and its protective qualities.

[Bob2010]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

This is the greatest myth of the 21st century. Engine oil was engine oil, it was for engines, then it got called bike oil and car oil, look at weights not what it's "for" as that's a misnomer.

Really? Last I checked my cars transmission uses valvoline dexVI synthetic oil and the motor uses castrol 10w30 synthetic oil. Can't interchange the two.
My bikes use a bike oil made to work for both, which is why I use castrol synthetic 4T oil. Just want make sure someone doesn't misread what you are saying and ruins the bikes clutches.

[ninjamunky85]

Engine oil for cars is not going to ruin your bikes clutch. It's just not.

[Bob2010]

So you mean we are all wrong ? And we should re-write the ninjette wikis?

[ninjamunky85]

Show me where it says on a bottle of Shell Rotella T6 that it's made for motorcycles. It's not, it's made for diesel trucks. Yet it's what many members here and on other moto forums use.

I haven't read the wiki here, because the one at n250rc is much better, but I'm guessing it says not to use energy conserving oils because they can cause clutch slippage.

You can believe what you want though, and keep spending $10 for a quart of oil while I spend less than $22 for 5 quarts.

[kirk595x]

Originally Posted by Black knight

Can I use the mobil 1 racing 4t 10w-40? Which one is better?

I went with the Mobile One 4T...I wanted the Rotella but the big auto store was out of the quarts and I did'nt feel like running all over looking for it.

If the API label says energy conserving it will make your clutch slip.

[Joshorilla]

Originally Posted by Bob2010

Really? Last I checked my cars transmission uses valvoline dexVI synthetic oil and the motor uses castrol 10w30 synthetic oil. Can't interchange the two.
My bikes use a bike oil made to work for both, which is why I use castrol synthetic 4T oil. Just want make sure someone doesn't misread what you are saying and ruins the bikes clutches.

Transmission oil is not engine oil, the clue is in the name "transimission oil" not "engine oil". i didn't say "oil is oil" I said engine oil is engine oil, assuming you're talking of ATF.

Some engine oil has to deal with higher compressions, higher temperatures and greater frictions, motorbikes and diesel engines share the shame conditions, hence why rotella t whatever is often used in bikes.

Only exception would be two stroke oil.

[Boom King]

Around here, the bottles of Rotella T6 states that it meets JASO MA requirements right on the label. Guess it's riding season again once these oil threads start popping up on the regular

[Bob2010]

Apparently riding season needs to start soon before these divas need a snickers bar....

[ninja250r81]

In Aussie for shell motorcycle oil

Shell Advance Ultra - 10w40 or 15w50 - full synthetic
Shell Advance AX7 - 10w40 or 15w50 - semi synthetic
Shell Advance AX5 - 15w40 - mineral

Shell Rimula R6 M

[Bob2010]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

Transmission oil is not engine oil, the clue is in the name "transimission oil" not "engine oil". i didn't say "oil is oil" I said engine oil is engine oil, assuming you're talking of ATF.

Some engine oil has to deal with higher compressions, higher temperatures and greater frictions, motorbikes and diesel engines share the shame conditions, hence why rotella t whatever is often used in bikes.

Only exception would be two stroke oil.

Thanks for agreeing. I'm happy you see how your post was misleading. That's why I used my car as an example to explain.
You guys can run the engine oil made by rotella as it meets the same standards required by ours bikes manufacturers.
However , it's not safe to assume oil is oil except for weight.

I'm not going to save a few dollars for some oil when I can buy something formulated just for our bikes.
Also lots of new people read these threads and might become confused by misinformation.

[Bob2010]

Originally Posted by ninjamunky85

Show me where it says on a bottle of Shell Rotella T6 that it's made for motorcycles. It's not, it's made for diesel trucks. Yet it's what many members here and on other moto forums use.

I haven't read the wiki here, because the one at n250rc is much better, but I'm guessing it says not to use energy conserving oils because they can cause clutch slippage.

You can believe what you want though, and keep spending $10 for a quart of oil while I spend less than $22 for 5 quarts.

Congrats on saving a few bucks man. No problems here though either.

[Joshorilla]

Originally Posted by Bob2010

Thanks for agreeing. I'm happy you see how your post was misleading. That's why I used my car as an example to explain.
You guys can run the engine oil made by rotella as it meets the same standards required by ours bikes manufacturers.
However , it's not safe to assume oil is oil except for weight.

I'm not going to save a few dollars for some oil when I can buy something formulated just for our bikes.
Also lots of new people read these threads and might become confused by misinformation.

I never said oil is oil, i said engine oil is engine oil, what part of your thick skull isn't letting that through?

I couldn't give a toss what your car uses, and I don't give a damn what trasmission oil, it's not engine oil, the same as light machine oil isn't engine oil, and olive oil isn't engine oil, do you understand what I am saying?

Nobody is getting confused, and if anybody is confusing anybody it's you with the drivvel that's spouting from your vacuous mind.

So, to phrase this in a manner that I hope you understand, yet sincerely doubt you'll bother to, all engine oil formulated for a four stroke engine, be it diesel, petrol, motorcycle, etc, will work just fine in your bike so long as it's of the correct weighting, to use an anaology, you can wear boots, shoes, loafers, trainers, sneakers, ballet shoes, so long as they fit you.

What is infinatly more important then the apparent shock horror, dissmisal and arogance you seem to display at the idea of using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the frequency of which you change said oil.

So, thanks for not agreeing with me.

[Bob2010]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

I never said oil is oil, i said engine oil is engine oil, what part of your thick skull isn't letting that through?

I couldn't give a toss what your car uses, and I don't give a damn what trasmission oil, it's not engine oil, the same as light machine oil isn't engine oil, and olive oil isn't engine oil, do you understand what I am saying?

Nobody is getting confused, and if anybody is confusing anybody it's you with the drivvel that's spouting from your vacuous mind.

So, to phrase this in a manner that I hope you understand, yet sincerely doubt you'll bother to, all engine oil formulated for a four stroke engine, be it diesel, petrol, motorcycle, etc, will work just fine in your bike so long as it's of the correct weighting, to use an anaology, you can wear boots, shoes, loafers, trainers, sneakers, ballet shoes, so long as they fit you.

What is infinatly more important then the apparent shock horror, dissmisal and arogance you seem to display at the idea of using diesel oil in a motorcycle is the frequency of which you change said oil.

So, thanks for not agreeing with me.

Your post said engine oil is engine oil then it was called bike oil etc.. And we should only look for the weight of the oil.
Its ok guy, part of growing up is accepting when you're wrong
You cannot use engine oil in a bike that uses the same oil for both engine and transmission.
There is a reason there is specific "bike" oil. So in that sense it's not the same as engine oil.
Did you grab a snickers yet?

[allanoue]

@Joshorilla do they show US candy bar tv commercials in the Channel Islands?


@Bob2010 did you skip breakfast?

[Bob2010]

Lol nah im more of coffee in the morning , steak and beers for dinner kind of guy

As a moderator on other forums, one thing that is truly frowned upon is mis- information. People browse looking for information and if they read the wrong posts, they can be in big trouble fast.
Just stick to the facts. I'm sure you could "get away" with other oils but when I read this, I wanted to know the facts. Hence why I joined. The wikis and information here are amazing. I hope to see it continue to provide solid information.
Like i perviouslystated, I personally read all the wikis and threads and posts, considered all my options. It took a lot of background research to confirm that engine oil made by rotella was acceptable because it met the same standards and requirements for our bikes. That isn't to say alll engine oils will act the same as long as the weight is correct.
Soo in that aspect , what's a few dollars to know to that the castrol 4t oil (insert any other bike oil here) I run was designed with our bikes in mind and not just a generic diesel engine oil?
You pay to play. Why cheap out on the one fluid that protects your clutches and engine?

[1LoneWolf]

I don't use synthetics till about 5000 miles, the engine is fully broken in by then. My mechanic is a Ninja 250 expert and he told me so. Clutch plates aren't glazed yet till about 5000 miles, as he said.