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Old October 19th, 2014, 09:42 AM   #1
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To Do List for Winter

Want to keep track of progress on here. Will come to this thread if I have a problem.

if I decide to only track
maybe

Flip Clip-Ons - More leverage
Check Valves
track fairings
m4 exhaust
de cat
tune
Bleed Brake System
Fix Starter Issue
Change Rear Brake Pads
Adjust Suspension and/or change fork oil

List shall continue.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 08:16 AM   #2
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Old December 17th, 2014, 09:14 AM   #3
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I have some work to do on my streamliner this winter:

fix wiring to the oil pressure warning light, and high beam indicator
revise the tail section supports so that the tail doesn't sag over time
strengthen lower cargo area inside the tail
clean carbs and test jetting changes

I also need to locate a coast test area that I can use to evaluate some new aerodynamic and rolling resistance tweaks that I'm considering.

I was thinking about switching motos for the 2015 competition season but after the 187mpg winning performance at the San Luis Obuspo Vetter Challenge I will continue with the Ninjette for this season.
Merry XMas and Happy Holidays
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Old December 17th, 2014, 09:43 AM   #4
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Got a little K75 work to do before summer (in preparation for road trip):
Replace front & rear brake fluid (speed bleeders makes it easy);
Remove starter motor, disassemble, blow out brush dust, reassemble, and reinstall;
Remove alternator, replace brushes, lube cush drive monkey nuts, and reinstall;
Consider replacing 6 year old battery while it’s out (to get to the starter and alternator);
Replace coolant (it’s been a few years);
Remove air filter, blow it out, and reinstall.

Ninjette springtime to-do list:
Replace front & rear brake fluid (don’t have speed bleeders for it… no biggie);
Maybe replace coolant (we’ll see… maybe wait another year)

KLR250 springtime to-do:
Check tire pressure and ride.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 11:58 AM   #5
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i wonder if its a bad idea to tune in the winter
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Old December 17th, 2014, 01:45 PM   #6
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Old December 18th, 2014, 10:51 AM   #7
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My to do list involves putting together a plan to move to Arizona.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 11:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
i wonder if its a bad idea to tune in the winter
cant imagine it's a good thing on a vehicle that is primarily used in the summer

Gonna hurt anything... doubt it, I imagine in a place like NY you would just end up running rich come summer time when the temps get higher so you won't be squeezing out the ponies you could be.

Tune in the hot summer and ride in the dead cold of winter, I could see that being more of a problem but it is mainly speculation on my part.

in short... IDFK?
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Old December 18th, 2014, 12:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subxero View Post
cant imagine it's a good thing on a vehicle that is primarily used in the summer

Gonna hurt anything... doubt it, I imagine in a place like NY you would just end up running rich come summer time when the temps get higher so you won't be squeezing out the ponies you could be.

Tune in the hot summer and ride in the dead cold of winter, I could see that being more of a problem but it is mainly speculation on my part.

in short... IDFK?
cold air is more dense then warm air.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:01 PM   #10
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right, so you if you tuned for winter you would be getting more air, therefore more fuel as well to keep the ratio in that sweet spot 13:1 give or take or whatever it is??

come summer, less air, fuel stays the same, to much fuel, not gonna hurt anything

reverse for other scenario. Tune in summer, less air, less fuel needed to get sweet spot ratio, come winter, more air same fuel, you are now not getting enough fuel to keep things cool, seems like a recipe for disaster.

I could be thinking about it completely wrong.... I have been known to do that
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Old December 18th, 2014, 10:49 PM   #11
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running too rich is not good for the engine.
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Old December 19th, 2014, 03:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
i wonder if its a bad idea to tune in the winter
A good question. And tuning may mean less or more things to different people.
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Old December 19th, 2014, 03:49 PM   #13
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why are you even debating the tune? There's an app for that! It's super cheap now.

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Old December 19th, 2014, 04:43 PM   #14
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I dont know of any fuel injection systems that do not take into account air temperature. Every system I have worked with NEEDS to have air temperature as a reference. I have yet to research it however I believe that the 300 uses a speed/density system much like most aftermarket stand-alone ECUs. This means there is a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, and an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.

Without getting too detailed, these two sensors work with eachother in that the MAP sensor tells the computer how much air is going in the engine, the ECU decides what part of its fuel map to use based on rpm and the MAP sensor, and the IAT, coolant temp sensor, and sometimes an ambient barometric pressure sensor fine tune the fuel based on current conditions.

There are a few other types of injection out there but most still rely on some sort of temperature reference to adjust to current conditions.

(small edit, I had forgotten I was in general discussion, not the 300 section... Tuning carbs is a different story. In THEORY, you can tune any time of year and make the small necessary carb adjustments with a small turn of a screwdriver...)

Last futzed with by APEmike; December 19th, 2014 at 04:48 PM. Reason: oops
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Old December 19th, 2014, 08:04 PM   #15
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Old December 19th, 2014, 09:21 PM   #16
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I rode today... An put more found ornaments on this gaudy tree
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Old December 19th, 2014, 09:31 PM   #17
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Old December 19th, 2014, 09:59 PM   #18
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Sorry yo... You know my stupidPhone likes crooked pics
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Old December 31st, 2014, 08:16 PM   #19
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Took off cams and lots of other parts. Planning on painting some parts purple, and am waiting for my race parts.

Got a new job and a little tight on money now.

Happy new year guys.
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Old December 31st, 2014, 08:22 PM   #20
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Not how the bikes looks now. All my other pictures are on my old phone. Valves are pretty tight and it may be the reason why I am having some starting issues. I am gonna put it back together after the adjustment and will start her up, and see if its any better. Fingers crossed.

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Old January 13th, 2015, 10:45 AM   #21
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How a ZX6R is meant to look like, taken apart.





Doge.

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Old January 15th, 2015, 09:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbinker View Post
running too rich is not good for the engine.
running rich, of all the things that can be done to an engine, it the least damaging.

It's bad for your spark plugs.

It's bad for horse power.

It's bad for your fuel economy.

It's bad for the environment.

however from the engine view... rich means a cooler running engine, the oil will be thicker at cooler temps and have less viscosity loss.

the gas that is unburned will be evaporated and pull heat directly from the cylinder... Some people say that liquid gas can be pushed past the rings and into the crank case and have detrimental effects to the oil, but the engine is warm enough that any volatile in the crank case will evaporate and be vented to the air box via positive crank case vents.

so, rich is safer for the engine, but bad for a bunch of other things... the factory will always ship an engine tuned slightly to the "rich" side. they warranty the engine... they don't pay for your gas, they don't worry about your specific horse power, or replacing your fouled plugs...


my to do list.

replace the shift star spring and the coils on the TLR...

make the beast ready for warm weather, cuz that day is ticking nearer every second.
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Old January 15th, 2015, 09:58 AM   #23
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Aren't most bikes leaned out these days to meet emissions requirements?
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Old January 15th, 2015, 02:12 PM   #24
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Electronic fuel injection is VERY helpful in meeting emission standards. The number of carburated bikes is going down, and the fuel injected machines are almost the standard now.

Most were tuned to be perfect at about 5000 RPM - 8000 RPM... Idle is what kills you, it's very hard to get the idle mix right for a bike at 1200 RPM and no load AND at 8000 RPM and 100% load.

Back in the day, the bikes would come from the factory a tad rich. It was pretty easy to squeak a horse or two out of an OEM bike just by tuning it.

with todays EFI, and liquid cool... they are DNO (dead nuts on) out of the crate.
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