What Did You Do to Your Ninjette Today ??

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Set the cam timing perfect, didn't start, checked cam timing again, exhaust cam is 180° out of fase. Thinks that's f***ing wild, I thought I didn't do drugs, oh well, I must be retarted. Set the cam timing perfect again, bike doesn't start, checks cam timing again, exhaust is 90° out of fase and intake is 180° out of fase. Well if that isn't the most bizzare thing I've ever seen, the cct must have not been set, oh well, set the cam timing again making 1000% certain its set correctly, the cam chain is properly set on the crank, and the cct is set right. Bike won't start, doesn't seem to have much compression, and it seems to suck and blow air through the carbs and exhaust. Well I'm pretty much done at this point. I have never heard or seen anything like this. I have to assume the cam timing is off, or the cam timing is off and the valves are bent. I dont have a single clue whats going on at this point and I'm starting to get pissed off. I would just buy a used motor and drop it in at this point, however if I don't figure out what's going wrong how would I prevent it the next time when I go big bore.

[Lazarus]

Well I can't beat that^^. I just wired in a 12v socket to charge my GPS/phone and put my CBR rear hugger on.

[LittleRedNinjette]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that to you. I've got one spare one that never got used. Silly Two Brothers decided to only ever send me one, so I had to get creative with a washer instead of their given spacer.

long story short, I think I have one that's never been used laying around the house somewhere. Just let me know.

I about jumped a foot when I started the bike after putting just the tips in.

I'll check with the man to see if he has something. Let you know! Thanks!

[tfkrocks]

Put on a R&G radiator guard and Stomp Grips. The Stomp Grips are probably grippier than I really need but I like that they have the additional lower pieces unlike Tech-Specs.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

I about jumped a foot when I started the bike after putting just the tips in.

I'll check with the man to see if he has something. Let you know! Thanks!

I've worked on, or been friends with, etc, so many straight piped things nothing even bothers me anymore.

[RacinNinja]

Set it up at the track. Remove the Bridgestone stickers, applied Dunlop stickers!

Tomorrow we ride!

[NevadaWolf]

Watched some EPIC riders do amazing things with their big monster bikes, so took my little Ninja to the permanently painted MSF course to do circles. Can get really tight on the left hand turn, but a right hand turn pinches my hand on the throttle against the tank. Must work on my positioning to improve this.

[choneofakind]

Started her for the first time in 2016.

I've been a bad ninjette owner.

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Started her for the first time in 2016.

I've been a bad ninjette owner.

And I thought I was bad

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by tfkrocks

And I thought I was bad

To be fair, I was separated from it because of school and races and vacation until the end of Memorial Day week. So, it's really only sat here for a few weeks since I've been with it.

The bicycles have been getting workouts.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

Watched some EPIC riders do amazing things with their big monster bikes, so took my little Ninja to the permanently painted MSF course to do circles. Can get really tight on the left hand turn, but a right hand turn pinches my hand on the throttle against the tank. Must work on my positioning to improve this.

Or your handle bar is bent

[RacinNinja]

So I took it to the track and flogged it for 20 minutes after a couple of tire warm up laps. Quite the little beasty! Even managed to pass a few R1's round the outside....hehehe.

The Dunlop Alphas are mighty fine tires. They warm up quick, handle fantastic, tip in fast but predictable and they stick like glue! Very happy with everything about the little machine.

Now let's see how my wife does on it for her track day!

[Sirref]

Did a motor swap!

now that the new motor is in and the bike is hopefully running right I'm headed to NCCAR for a day of racing with TPM

[sharky nrk]

sold my street ninjette

- but still have the track ninjette

[NevadaWolf]

Gasp... I washed it!

[CaliGrrl]

Washed it? You can do that? Wow.

Mine needs a bath, too. She did get to run today, though, some canyon time, a trip through the Snake, and finishing up with a run up Pacific Coast hwy.

[NevadaWolf]

I wash it about once a year. Any more and I'd be concerned I'd removed too much of the bug gut glue that's holding everything together.

[CaliGrrl]

Bug-gut-glue - LOL! Now you're making me feel better.

[mgentz]

Rode it. Adjusted the chain.

[BDfromBC]

image.jpg here a picture! I know I promised it Friday but sometimes I forget to do small things like that LOL!

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Ordered a complete head for $75 ish.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

Gasp... I washed it!

I wanted to wash my bike, but looked at it and decided to ride instead.

[mgentz]

^^^^^ yowzers

[Bluberryrain]

Today I flushed the brake system, topped it off with new fluid, and also replaced my brake pads. All in all, a really easy job.

Spark plugs, coolant flush, valve lash, carb needles/shim, carb sync, and idle mixture screws are next!

I have slowly but surely been doing all the maintaince to this bike. Unfortunately the previous owner couldn't tell me what was done and when, so I figured I would just do all of it.

[Ghostt]

Indirectly but maybe future Ninjette owners, I just received an e-mail, I'm on the list to take the course to become an motorcycle safety instructor.

Fingers crossed

Good Afternoon,

The Kentucky Motorcycle Rider Education Program will be putting together a RiderCoach Preparation Workshop (RCP) late July – August. As you submitted an application, you were on the list to contact.



The RCP will be located at Eastern Kentucky University in Richmond, KY 40475. It will held in the Stratton Building, Room 232 & 214. The schedule is: July 29-31, August 12-14, and August 26-28. Tentatively, each Friday will be 6pm – 9pm, all day Saturdays and Sundays will be 8am – 5pm. Attendance is mandatory to all sessions.



If you are still interested in becoming a RiderCoach AND can attend those dates, please respond to this email.



Note: Final invitation is depend upon successfully passing a Driver History Report.



Thank You

Christopher Millard Ed.D.

Assistant Director

Kentucky Motorcycle Program

Eastern Kentucky University

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Bluberryrain

Today I flushed the brake system, topped it off with new fluid, and also replaced my brake pads. All in all, a really easy job.

Spark plugs, coolant flush, valve lash, carb needles/shim, carb sync, and idle mixture screws are next!

I have slowly but surely been doing all the maintaince to this bike. Unfortunately the previous owner couldn't tell me what was done and when, so I figured I would just do all of it.

Whenever I get a used vehicle I assume nothing has been done, or done poorly, especially a motorcycle

Did you service the calipers? I'm guessing not, service them, as it one of the most overlooked items on any bike I have found, and is required to keep the braking system in top working order.

Also leave the sync alone, unless your doing a bench synchronization, which IMHO is the only correct method, once you understand why you sync the carburetors, and what effects the vacuum method.

Lastly in not familiar with NewGen, do you have CoPs? I know PreGen doesn't so you also need to service the spark plug caps and HT leads.

Other that, your DIY list looks good to me.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

The previous owner is always terrible. No exceptions.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

The previous owner is always terrible. No exceptions.

Guy I bought my 2009 from put 1800 miles on it and in that time added a full yosh pipe, jet kit, removed rear pegs and added a seat cowl. On top of all that I kept a detailed service log oddly written on a randomly large piece of cardboard in his garage and hand the bike over as clean as it would have been off the showroom floor.

Moral of the story? All previous owners are terrible.......unless they they have a house full of high end model rockets and trains because then you know that guy was meticulous ass hell when working on your future bike.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Guy I bought my 2009 from put 1800 miles on it and in that time added a full yosh pipe, jet kit, removed rear pegs and added a seat cowl. On top of all that I kept a detailed service log oddly written on a randomly large piece of cardboard in his garage and hand the bike over as clean as it would have been off the showroom floor.

Moral of the story? All previous owners are terrible.......unless they they have a house full of high end model rockets and trains because then you know that guy was meticulous ass hell when working on your future bike.

Not a single bolt was tightened with a impact from hell? I've never bought something that wasn't missing bolts, had a super tight bolt, fasteners and body parts falling off, ill adjusted controls, oil with more than 3k, mismatch valve stem caps, etc.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

Not a single bolt was tightened with a impact from hell? I've never bought something that wasn't missing bolts, had a super tight bolt, fasteners and body parts falling off, ill adjusted controls, oil with more than 3k, mismatch valve stem caps, etc.

Nope! He was a f**king unicorn.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by HoneyBadgerRy

Not a single bolt was tightened with a impact from hell? I've never bought something that wasn't missing bolts, had a super tight bolt, fasteners and body parts falling off, ill adjusted controls, oil with more than 3k, mismatch valve stem caps, etc.

In you vast experience.


When will you be 19?

[CaliGrrl]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Nope! He was a f**king unicorn.

Hahahahha!! Nice.

[Bluberryrain]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Whenever I get a used vehicle I assume nothing has been done, or done poorly, especially a motorcycle

Did you service the calipers? I'm guessing not, service them, as it one of the most overlooked items on any bike I have found, and is required to keep the braking system in top working order.

Also leave the sync alone, unless your doing a bench synchronization, which IMHO is the only correct method, once you understand why you sync the carburetors, and what effects the vacuum method.

Lastly in not familiar with NewGen, do you have CoPs? I know PreGen doesn't so you also need to service the spark plug caps and HT leads.

Other that, your DIY list looks good to me.

You are correct in your assumption that I did not service the calipers. You're also correct that it's overlooked, 'coz it didn't even cross my mind. Thank you for the reminder. I will go ahead and get some new seals, and clean those bad boys out.

-Noted, I'll reconsider the sync process pending further research.

-No, the newgens do not have coil-on-plug ignition either, so the caps and leads will need to be serviced as well. I can't imagine that they cost very much, so I will likely replace all of it.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by allanoue

In you vast experience.


When will you be 19?

I've actually bought a decent amount of stuff.

And next January. Point taken though.

However, being the mechanic for pretty much all of my friends stuff too, all their **** always has something stupid done to it too.

[Dave Wolfe]

Realized I installed my front blinkers on wrong sides. Not gonna fix it for a month.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by tgold

Ok. Thanks for the update.

I got to run them! Great tires. Super sticky! Ran the recommended 31 psi front, 28 psi rear from the on track Dunlop rep and had a 10% increase after a session.

They tip in nicely and feel very planted in the turns. Of course, I'm coming from an old vintage machine so YMMV but overall I was very impressed. They never got squirrely at all and showed nice even wear all the way around. For $250 bucks I'd recommend them.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Bluberryrain

You are correct in your assumption that I did not service the calipers. You're also correct that it's overlooked, 'coz it didn't even cross my mind. Thank you for the reminder. I will go ahead and get some new seals, and clean those bad boys out.

-Noted, I'll reconsider the sync process pending further research.

-No, the newgens do not have coil-on-plug ignition either, so the caps and leads will need to be serviced as well. I can't imagine that they cost very much, so I will likely replace all of it.

Most of the time new seals aren't necessary, just a good cleaning, but it's okay to have the ready, or just change them if you wish.

Here's my write-up on the subjects, caution reading ahead,


I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.

For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc

I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT.

No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade

Venhill Introduction
Greetings everyone!

I wanted to take a moment to introduce you to Venhill...

Venhill manufactures some of the highest quality brake lines and cables you can get. We've been in business since 1971 and currently offer a full range of brake lines for the Ninja 250, first and second generations.

Our website, venhillusa.com, is setup to take orders for any year Ninja 250 as well as many other bikes. You can pick your bike and then customize your kits as you wish. We offer many different colors of hose as well as different finishes and materials for hardware. All of these options can be selected during the purchase process, so you'll be sure to get exactly what you want. You can even add length to hoses if needed.

To get an idea of our reputation, have a look at our eBay feedback.

If you have any questions or comments about Venhill products or brake lines or cables in general, please share them. I'm happy to be a resource for general information about brake lines and cables as well. Technical questions are welcome!

Please take a look at our website and let us know what you think. We just recently did a complete makeover and are interested in feedback. (venhillusa.com)

Have a great day and stay safe,

Chris
Venhill USA

For the detail oriented out there, some interesting things you might want to know about Venhill and our products:

Our factory is ISO 9001-2000 approved, which basically means we have the ability to consistently produce quality products. To qualify for ISO approval your factory and quality control mechanisms are evaluated as to whether your "good" products happen by chance, or if they are a result of good quality control.

All of our hoses are built to DOT/TUV spec and have been certified as such. We submitted hoses to the TUV (German DOT) for testing and only by passing are we allowed to use the TUV symbol on our hoses. Every hose we sell is built to these specifications, even if it is for track or offroad use only. It just makes for a higher quality product.

All of our hoses are hydraulically crimped, not hand crimped, and leak/pressure tested in a water bath. Yes, we immerse every hose we build in a water bath and pressurize it to check for leaks and to verify integrity of the crimps.

Venhill's hose core is authentic DuPont Teflon which is more expensive than generic "PTFE" but is stronger with a smoother inner bore. This is surrounded by 96 strands of braided marine grade stainless wire. 96 strands is more dense than some other braided line brands and the marine grade alloy is a stronger metal, which reduces expansion, the reason rubber hoses feel "spongy". Finally, we coat the braid with a UV-resistant PVC, extruded on during manufacture. This protects the hose as well as body and paint work.

Our hose design uses free-floating swivels, which allow you to loosely install everything before the hoses are tightened into place. This ensures the hose is not forced into a twist or kink when the banjo bolts are tightened. If you're worried about leaks, don't be. Our swivels work on the same premise as every threaded connection on a car or truck.

As you can see, we're sort of obsessed with quality and safety. We look at it this way: If we're asking you to put our brake lines on your bike, you're trusting us with the integrity of your brakes. That's a serious concept and we refuse to compromise when it comes to the integrity of your brakes.

I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.

So you have made the decision that your OEM rubber lines need to be changed.

So why choose Spiegler Brake Lines?

A: Strength

That’s the short answer. But it doesn’t tell the whole story.

Spiegler Brake Lines strength comes from our innovation and research, materials and construction, knowledge and experience, service and support.

At Spiegler, we believe that the more you know about what we put into our products, the better you’ll be able to answer that question yourself.


That’s the short version; now let’s cover this topic more in depth.

Most OEM manufacturer recommend that you replace your rubber brake lines every 2 to 3 years. Why do the OEM’s recommend this? Over time OEM rubber lines deteriorate rapidly due to expansion and UV damage. This leads to increased braking distances and possible failure.

At Spiegler, our brake lines are made of only the finest materials available.

Outside casings are made of tightly woven stainless steel braiding that exceeds our competitors
The inside is made with DuPont’s PTFE-Teflon which eliminates expansion and adds durability
Crimp sleeves are made from stainless steel; competitors are using mostly carbon steel
Unique patented adjustable banjo fittings eliminate line twist during installation.
30% weight savings in comparison to other stainless steel braided brake lines
DOT approved
Lifetime warranty
117 color combinations possible which allows customers to personalize their bikes
We can build your lines to any specifications for custom applications
All brake line kits come ready for install

For more information on why you should choose Spiegler Brake Lines, you can view the following pages for a more detailed look into Spiegler brake lines.

When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.


And here's my write-up on servicing Tue spark plug caps

Even bad plugs should do something, unless they are totally shot.

Did you renew the HT leads, and disassemble the caps?

Make sure you disassemble the caps, and clean them, and yes the caps get cruddy.

Here my write-up,

Short explanation: The inside of the hard plastic caps accumulate crud the can short out the spark. This can cause rough running or failure to start. Every time you do any work on the bike: remove them disassemble and clean them and renew the wires or at least the connections.

The long Explanation, Warning engineering information can cause Drowsiness.
The ancient cylinder design of the engine dictates that the spark emanate form the center of the combustion chamber. In order to get it there, the plugs had to be located down deep in a well between the cams. This well is a perfect place for dirt and moisture to accumulate. Then because there is no cooling water at this point the metal around the plug runs very hot. Surround this with the large amount of cool metal and you have a recipe for condensation. Now K did drill a drain hole between the fins to help (a little) but it often gets plugged up.

The moisture boils off the base of the plug and the vapor condenses on the cool plastic cap and the plug insulator. This moisture forms a easier path for the electrons to ground than jumping the gap at the plug to make a spark. Misfire.
This issue is right up there with Pilot jets as a cause of trouble.

Here's some pictures that might be helpful. I took these when I replaced the wires themselves, as it was a good time for a write-up, and the wires were OEM from 1998.


Wires are just 7mm copper core, with clear silicone jacket









IMPORTANT NOTICE: make sure to use a proper screwdriver, make sure it fits, as the parts are made of brass inside the spark plug caps





Important notice: the wire must be screwed on the spark plug cap, note the screw like object inside the spark plug cap?



Important notice: be careful to not loose the ferrules on the HT leads, these keep the wire from falling out of the coil. Below is an example of ferrules on a pressure fitting, looks familiar?








And finally my write-up on synchronization

You can sync with the carbs in hand. Back the idle adjustment off to close that carb then match the second carb to it with the sync screw. You can then turn the idle adjustment up while using a thin feeler gauge (maybe .002") between the throttle plate and the throttle bore, adjust to just fit, and then check the second one and adjust to match. If you have good feel for this it will run fine once installed.

It would do folks well to take a minute to review and understand what a sync tool does, how it works. And take another minute to look at the carb linkage and sync adjustments available to fix irregularities that might occur. It can help take some of the mystery out of this as well as stop unnecessary carb sync screwups.

Meaning, that the carbs were right once, the butterflies were matched and it performed well, but then changed. Undecided And the problem somehow occurred in the butterfly direct shafts, or the sync screw turned or wore that pad that it rests on, or the carburetor pairing/ bridging brackets twisted in relation to each other, and enough so that the butterflies no longer operated in sync, such that performance noticeably suffered. And a fix will be accomplished by changing the butterfly position, the only thing the sync adjustment does. Hmmm. Really? Undecided

Meanwhile, the tool measures vacuum at each individual runner. That's all it does, how it works. And vacuum is effected by a huge list of things, butterfly position being only one of them, and the only one addressed with that tool while turning those sync screws. The rest of that list includes, valve adjustment, jetting, float level, compression differences between cylinders caused by wear as well as factory CC differences in the head, intake runner, as well as flow by port variations, etc. Variations in cams, wear or factory tolerance. Then there's the potential big one, pilot jets and pilot screw mixture settings. All of those effect the vacuum and will be read by the sync tool, accurately identifyng the difference that exists, and with the only adjustment being used to "correct" the problem, move the butterfly relationship, one to the next.

It's that clear understanding that has me of the opinion and long time practice to not touch the sync screws on a set of carbs that were right once and were never dismantled from the rack. And jet cleaning as well as float needle changing doesn't require that they be dismantled. And further, if I DID dismantle a set of carbs, I just matched the butterflies on the bench at assembly, using a feeler gauge, and then never touched them again, never gave them another thought.

That method, properly executed, will have THAT portion of the complete equation, balanced flow to each cylinder in a multi-cylinder/ carb application due to butterfly position, satisfied entirely adequately. And in fact, it has worked for me every time I've done it on every bike (as well as individual runner/ butterfly V-8 intakes, all eight) that I've ever owned or any that I've fixed for others. And the times I fixed for others was usually after an attempt by others to sync the carbs, chasing a problem, or sometimes not even chasing a problem, but one they created wth a sync tool, chasing a problem from that list, that was never a butterfly position change problem. Those linkages are so direct and simple that they don't know how to screw themselves up. Not enough to care about.

I'm sure this will start a lot of controversy so I won't argue it, just offering it for those who understand the whole picture that I outlined and might make good use of it. It is what I've done, on every engine I ever worked on, including blue printed racing engines as well as regular old, high mileage street stuff. I've had at least four, four cylinder bikes with over 100,000 miles that ran quite well, the whole time, and never had a carb sync performed. When they did finally get a total disassembly, this is how I set them up, on the bench. Over the years I've straightened out at least a half dozen messed up ones, probably more, and on the bench, after fixing the original problem which was fouled pilot jets.

I only posted this because it seems like its coming up fairly often, especially with problems from a sync gone bad. One I would suggest was never a sync problem to begin with. A big or sudden change in performance is NEVER a sync problem. NEVER. Remember that. Cool If there is a problem, and you connect the gauges? YES, there will definitely be an imbalance indicated. But because that hole has a problem that is from the rest of the list. A bad plug, a plugged pilot jet, a screwed up float, a bad valve or setting, etc. Every one of them effecting the vacuum in the intake but NOT from a sudden move of a butterfly position, a sync adjustment.

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Guy I bought my 2009 from put 1800 miles on it and in that time added a full yosh pipe, jet kit, removed rear pegs and added a seat cowl. On top of all that I kept a detailed service log oddly written on a randomly large piece of cardboard in his garage and hand the bike over as clean as it would have been off the showroom floor.

Moral of the story? All previous owners are terrible.......unless they they have a house full of high end model rockets and trains because then you know that guy was meticulous ass hell when working on your future bike.

So you are saying that if I sell my bike, I should be regarded as a sh!++¥ previous owner?

[Bluberryrain]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Most of the time new seals aren't necessary, just a good cleaning, but it's okay to have the ready, or just change them if you wish.

Here's my write-up on the subjects, caution reading ahead,


I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.






I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT.

No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade




I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.




When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.


And here's my write-up on servicing Tue spark plug caps

Even bad plugs should do something, unless they are totally shot.

Did you renew the HT leads, and disassemble the caps?

Make sure you disassemble the caps, and clean them, and yes the caps get cruddy.

Here my write-up,




Here's some pictures that might be helpful. I took these when I replaced the wires themselves, as it was a good time for a write-up, and the wires were OEM from 1998.


Wires are just 7mm copper core, with clear silicone jacket









IMPORTANT NOTICE: make sure to use a proper screwdriver, make sure it fits, as the parts are made of brass inside the spark plug caps





Important notice: the wire must be screwed on the spark plug cap, note the screw like object inside the spark plug cap?



Important notice: be careful to not loose the ferrules on the HT leads, these keep the wire from falling out of the coil. Below is an example of ferrules on a pressure fitting, looks familiar?








And finally my write-up on synchronization

You can sync with the carbs in hand. Back the idle adjustment off to close that carb then match the second carb to it with the sync screw. You can then turn the idle adjustment up while using a thin feeler gauge (maybe .002") between the throttle plate and the throttle bore, adjust to just fit, and then check the second one and adjust to match. If you have good feel for this it will run fine once installed.

It would do folks well to take a minute to review and understand what a sync tool does, how it works. And take another minute to look at the carb linkage and sync adjustments available to fix irregularities that might occur. It can help take some of the mystery out of this as well as stop unnecessary carb sync screwups.

Meaning, that the carbs were right once, the butterflies were matched and it performed well, but then changed. Undecided And the problem somehow occurred in the butterfly direct shafts, or the sync screw turned or wore that pad that it rests on, or the carburetor pairing/ bridging brackets twisted in relation to each other, and enough so that the butterflies no longer operated in sync, such that performance noticeably suffered. And a fix will be accomplished by changing the butterfly position, the only thing the sync adjustment does. Hmmm. Really? Undecided

Meanwhile, the tool measures vacuum at each individual runner. That's all it does, how it works. And vacuum is effected by a huge list of things, butterfly position being only one of them, and the only one addressed with that tool while turning those sync screws. The rest of that list includes, valve adjustment, jetting, float level, compression differences between cylinders caused by wear as well as factory CC differences in the head, intake runner, as well as flow by port variations, etc. Variations in cams, wear or factory tolerance. Then there's the potential big one, pilot jets and pilot screw mixture settings. All of those effect the vacuum and will be read by the sync tool, accurately identifyng the difference that exists, and with the only adjustment being used to "correct" the problem, move the butterfly relationship, one to the next.

It's that clear understanding that has me of the opinion and long time practice to not touch the sync screws on a set of carbs that were right once and were never dismantled from the rack. And jet cleaning as well as float needle changing doesn't require that they be dismantled. And further, if I DID dismantle a set of carbs, I just matched the butterflies on the bench at assembly, using a feeler gauge, and then never touched them again, never gave them another thought.

That method, properly executed, will have THAT portion of the complete equation, balanced flow to each cylinder in a multi-cylinder/ carb application due to butterfly position, satisfied entirely adequately. And in fact, it has worked for me every time I've done it on every bike (as well as individual runner/ butterfly V-8 intakes, all eight) that I've ever owned or any that I've fixed for others. And the times I fixed for others was usually after an attempt by others to sync the carbs, chasing a problem, or sometimes not even chasing a problem, but one they created wth a sync tool, chasing a problem from that list, that was never a butterfly position change problem. Those linkages are so direct and simple that they don't know how to screw themselves up. Not enough to care about.

I'm sure this will start a lot of controversy so I won't argue it, just offering it for those who understand the whole picture that I outlined and might make good use of it. It is what I've done, on every engine I ever worked on, including blue printed racing engines as well as regular old, high mileage street stuff. I've had at least four, four cylinder bikes with over 100,000 miles that ran quite well, the whole time, and never had a carb sync performed. When they did finally get a total disassembly, this is how I set them up, on the bench. Over the years I've straightened out at least a half dozen messed up ones, probably more, and on the bench, after fixing the original problem which was fouled pilot jets.

I only posted this because it seems like its coming up fairly often, especially with problems from a sync gone bad. One I would suggest was never a sync problem to begin with. A big or sudden change in performance is NEVER a sync problem. NEVER. Remember that. Cool If there is a problem, and you connect the gauges? YES, there will definitely be an imbalance indicated. But because that hole has a problem that is from the rest of the list. A bad plug, a plugged pilot jet, a screwed up float, a bad valve or setting, etc. Every one of them effecting the vacuum in the intake but NOT from a sudden move of a butterfly position, a sync adjustment.

Holy **** Ghostt! Nice post! Thank you!!

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Originally Posted by mgentz

So you are saying that if I sell my bike, I should be regarded as a sh!++¥ previous owner?

... Yes.