2nd day, dropped twice.

[superflytako]

Only my 2nd day riding my 300 and I dropped it twice >_<

Pretty stupid on my part though, I was trying to do a turn on a fairly steep hill. Why I was on a hill, not sure. Why I was trying to turn on a hill, really not sure.

First drop the bike went down on the left side and then when we got it up...I accidentally released the front brake and the bike tipped over on the other side.

The damage wasn't too serious, mainly cosmetic to both mirrors, front brake and clutch lever. The left fairing took most of the damage and the right is barely noticeable.

The shift lever was bent all the way in but fortunately there was a good samaritan who offered his aid and helped me pull the lever back out. The dealer quoted me ~$80 for the gear lever and labor. It seems a bit steep though...Does anyone have any recommendations on where I can get a more reasonable price on the parts and possibly labor or do it myself?

Thanks in advance!

[iplante]

I'd recommend taking the MSF course if you haven't yet. Good luck!

[Joshorilla]

Lol, that looks to be the same lever as for the 250, when I went down I brought one from ebay oem for about £25 or $38 and fitted it myself.

I brought the clutch and brake level shorty combo from the2wheels on ebay for about £20

[leed]

It's okay, it happens a lot! I've done it... Too many times to count at this point!

But, that gear lever is just fine! Just take it off and bend it back [a vice, some heat, and a box wrench or hammer should do the trick]. One thing I do suggest is making sure that cover gets back on that ball joint!

Bike looks great though, be glad that Kawasaki did away with the giant turn signal stalks in the front otherwise your fairing might have been toast!

[mike12]

I'm gonna get me a 300 when I get back from deployment next year, like everyone said tale the msf, also I recommend a sport bike riders course if you can find one. The military requires one for us and it taught me way more than I had imagined.

[lgk]

Stuff like this happens often when you start riding.

Your balance will get better with experience.

Like the others i recommend taking a course to better your skills, before developing bad habits.

[superflytako]

I took the MSF a few weeks ago, its pretty useful and crucial in my opinion. Didn't really touch on hills though except maybe parking. Riding the 300 the first time wasn't as daunting as I initially thought it would be.

It was an error on my part and bad judgment, I just need to practice more before I decide to tackle hills again and not try turning in the middle of a hill. Though honestly, I was surprised how little damage it took from the drop on both sides.

@Joshorilla Thanks for the tip, I'll check out ebay when I get a chance. Was it hard to swap out the lever? I think my biggest concern with working on it on my own is torquing it. The dealer emphasized heavily on it...

@leed I think if I tried to bend it anymore it would snap and I don't really have a garage or tools to work with. I caught that sleeve/cover out of place when I got home. What is it for exactly?

[leed]

Originally Posted by mohamoda

I think if I tried to bend it anymore it would snap and I don't really have a garage or tools to work with. I caught that sleeve/cover out of place when I got home. What is it for exactly?

I promise it won't break, it's steel! I've bent/rebent mine at least 3 times, so no worries there. Worst case scenario is that it snaps [it really shouldn't] and you have to get a new one, and then you're no worse off than you were before! There's got to be someone on here local-ish to you to help you out, it really wouldn't take more than 5 minutes to fix!

As for removing/replacing the lever, it's really quite simple, and getting a "correct torque spec" is not so important, but it must be "tight enough" for sure, which is very very subjective so I can understand why a dealer would tell you it's very important.

As for the sleeve/cover, it serves no 'mechanical purpose' per se, but it A. keeps all the dirt/grit/other junk out, and B. keeps all grease in! Just keeps things running smoothly for longer

[Joshorilla]

The dealer would want for him to do it, it's a five minute job, the part will cost him $20 and he's charging you $80 so that's a cool $60 for five minutes, or $720 an hour.

You have two nuts tightened together to stop them from budging, I think of torque as a range, the quoted torque setting being the optimal within the range, you want it tight enough so that it won't undo, but not too tight so you may strip the thread or crack a nut.

[superflytako]

I like your thinking leed, just youtubed some videos. It doesn't look too difficult to remove/replace depending on whatever path I take. Is there a way to just remove the lever from the rest of the gear shift assembly if I try to straighten it out? Also one more question guys, what is the rubber hose dangling? I never noticed it before...

[NathanUc]

I'll ship you my old lever from the 250r. If it fits it sits. If not, just throw it away.

That hose is just your fuel run over do-hickie. Everyone has em.

[superflytako]

Sweet, much appreciated Nate! Thanks buddy!

[StephenA]

..i think i just cried a little after reading the OP...

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by mike12

I'm gonna get me a 300 when I get back from deployment next year, like everyone said tale the msf, also I recommend a sport bike riders course if you can find one. The military requires one for us and it taught me way more than I had imagined.

The civilian version of the Sport Bike Riders Course is the Advanced Riders Course.

[subxero]

poor 300

[Aufitt]

Buying a new bike to learn how to ride never ends well,

an old GPX250 is a better option.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by Aufitt

Buying a new bike to learn how to ride never ends well,

an old GPX250 is a better option.

[mike12]

Originally Posted by tfkrocks

The civilian version of the Sport Bike Riders Course is the Advanced Riders Course.

Are you sure cause we have an advanced riders course as well. Which includes all ranges of bikes... The sport bike course is strictly sportbikes (obviously) but they teach you how to push a sport bike to its potential and learn to trust it.

[Joshorilla]

To remove the shifter without taking off the whole assembly, remove the bolt that goes down the centre of the lever, loosen the nut that's on the con rod between the lever and the con rod, rotate the shifter anticlockwise about the con rod and it'll come off, best use some tape to secure the nut to the rod at the correct position to make aligning the lever easier when putting it back on.

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by mike12

Are you sure cause we have an advanced riders course as well. Which includes all ranges of bikes... The sport bike course is strictly sportbikes (obviously) but they teach you how to push a sport bike to its potential and learn to trust it.

The ARC was developed because of the SBRC. SBRC is military only.

Hah, funny regulation concerning motorcycle training. After completing BRC, one must complete either ERC (BRC 2) or SBRC within the next year based on the bike one owns. Last I checked, ERC is simply not as in depth as the SBRC. Obviously sportbike riders are much more dangerous than harley riders eh?

[leed]

Originally Posted by mohamoda

I like your thinking leed, just youtubed some videos. It doesn't look too difficult to remove/replace depending on whatever path I take. Is there a way to just remove the lever from the rest of the gear shift assembly if I try to straighten it out?

As mentioned by Josh, that is the right way to do it!

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

The dealer would want for him to do it, it's a five minute job, the part will cost him $20 and he's charging you $80 so that's a cool $60 for five minutes, or $720 an hour.

You have two nuts tightened together to stop them from budging, I think of torque as a range, the quoted torque setting being the optimal within the range, you want it tight enough so that it won't undo, but not too tight so you may strip the thread or crack a nut.

I think you meant the dealer would want them to do it? Or at least in context that would make more sense since all dealers are money grubbing.. well.. You know!

And I agree, but the issue is that many people have developed 'a feel' for the 'optimum torque'. In otherwords some of us can tell when we've hit the 'sweetspot' as there really are no tell-tale signs until it's too late! That said, it's steel on steel, I'd be very surprised to hear someone crack or strip the threads, but the threads can be stretched and that is, in my opinion, worse!

[Joshorilla]

If the dealer quoted you $80 then the dealer is the one you have a contract with for the work, I could make assumptions on if he is doing the work himself or outsouring etc, but the contract you have is with him, and that's why I am saying he would want for him to do it in preference to him wanting for you to do it, where "it" is in reference to aranging for the job to be done regardless of whom undertakes said work in both instances, as the means is regardless to the end result, it's more a question of whos pocket the money ends up it and how much.

[CC Cowboy]

Don't fix anything until you stop crashing.

[PHL]

Originally Posted by CC Cowboy

Don't fix anything until you stop crashing.

The corollary to this is, you won't crash until you fix everything.

[csmith12]

Chin up! It happens.

[BRad704]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

The dealer would want for him to do it, it's a five minute job, the part will cost him $20 and he's charging you $80 so that's a cool $60 for five minutes, or $720 an hour.

You have two nuts tightened together to stop them from budging, I think of torque as a range, the quoted torque setting being the optimal within the range, you want it tight enough so that it won't undo, but not too tight so you may strip the thread or crack a nut.

Josh covered the replacement process already, so I've gotta play devil's advocate on behalf of the dealer for a minute. Granted, I'm a total DIY guy in pretty much all aspects.

Think about it this way... His "time" doesn't start when he puts the first wrench in place on the bike. His time investment begins when that service tech walks up to the counter to get the next ticket and keys, and doesn't stop until the bike is back outside and the keys are back on 'the board'. Plus, he has to make some money on the parts also. He's not running a charity shop, and if someone can't swap out a clutch or brake level on their own, they have to learn to pay someone else for their knowledge.

[quicklooker]

If it makes you feel better, about a month into riding I lost my footing at a stop sign and slowly fell over with the bike on top of me! Thank goodness nobody saw me!

[superflytako]

Oh man that must've sucked. One of my buddies tipped his bike over coming to a stop when he did his first group ride. Ah well, gotta learn from our mistakes.

I'll probably end up working on it myself once I get all the tools and parts together, in the mean time I shouldn't have too much of an issue riding with a bent lever, just takes a little longer to find it.

[YORCHI]

It happens...I dropped mine when I went to give it its first wash. I was trying to walk it over to where the water hose was at and I only had one hand on the left handlebar and the other on the strap over the passenger seat. It started teetering to one side and I couldn't hold it so I tried to let it down as gently as I could. Ended up cracking the right fairing right at the "Ninja" sticker and breaking the turn signal.

Now I know to hold it from both handlebars and I have LED flushmount turn signals

[Dr Jones]

I just had this happen to me. Sounds stupid, but it totally ruined my night. Was stupidly walking it from the right side and the slope of my driveway took over as it fell on the left dide. Broke my left front turn signal too! Shifts okay, but the bend bothers me now that I see it...literally millimeters away from the linkage. I should search, but the only step to remove the shifter is the screw facing out? Dammit!! Alright, I'm searching key words again. ..

[Ninjinsky]

Yep just take it off straighten it, it's mild steel so quite malleable. Hold the pivot end tight in a vise with bits of wood to protect the faces and hammer the other end with increasing firmness until it straightens.

[Skullz]

Box end wrench over the shifter lever and pull out, the whole lever should move outward so it clears the kickstand and switch for full movement down to downshift without catching something.

[greenaero]

@OP Sorry to read about your tip-over. Steep hills can be tricky so extra caution is needed. Glad you weren't hurt and that the repairs are simple. I've only owned one brand new moto in my life so I know how upsetting it would be to damage a beautiful new moto like your 300.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by mohamoda

remove the lever, put it in a vice, hit it with a hammer until its in the right shape.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by Aufitt

Buying a new bike to learn how to ride never ends well,

an old GPX250 is a better option.

Not to brag, but I bought my 250 brand spanking new and after 15000 miles is never been on its side. I had never ridden a bike before, took the msf class and never looked back. (OK I'm bragging)

[Hero Danny]

This is back from 2013, so kinda pointless commenting about it... but you're the reason why people recommend new riders buy a used bike... lol. Damage looks very minor though. Much rather lay a bike down than have it slide across the pavement going 40mph.

[superflytako]

Originally Posted by Dr Jones

I just had this happen to me. Sounds stupid, but it totally ruined my night. Was stupidly walking it from the right side and the slope of my driveway took over as it fell on the left dide. Broke my left front turn signal too! Shifts okay, but the bend bothers me now that I see it...literally millimeters away from the linkage. I should search, but the only step to remove the shifter is the screw facing out? Dammit!! Alright, I'm searching key words again. ..

Yup, you can remove the shifter with just a single screw from the linkage. For mine, we just wrenched it out so it was rideable and left it. Eventually I swapped it for a new shifter :P

@greenaero/Hero Danny - agreed - going down at speed sucks, I wrecked several months ago from a driver that got too hasty merging in traffic. The 300 served me well over a year and would consider getting another one although I do not know if I could withstand the seat and riding position for long periods which is the majority of my riding.