2010 Track Build

[Floki]

I picked up a nice little 2010 with 4500 miles from Dallas, Texas last week for 2K that was mildly wrecked(or so I thought). It was cheaper to drive my car and ride it back while a friend drove my car on the 600 mile trip. Talk about a long ride, it took 12 hours for me to make it home.

Upon tear down, I found my right front fork to be bent, and I suspect my triples may be as well. I just ordered a set of used straight forks, okay hopefully straight ones, off ebay. The rest of the parts should be in as well.

Here is my list of parts to be installed
-SS lines and HH pads
-Clip ons and Yoshi Rearset adjusters
-.8kg springs, 10W oil, Emulators, and Pre-load adjusters
-'09 GSX-R shock with the dogbones that raise stock height 1/4''
-Area P exhaust damaged from ebay, KN filter to go in airbox, and stage 2 kit
-Pirelli SC2 up front and DR2 in rear 120/140 size


I may be forgetting something now, but I'll remember when it all comes in. Hopefully those doggies don't take too long like everyone says about burkhart cycles

[Trailerboy531]

Get real rearsets not the adjusters. Stock are designed to break on the plate near the bolting point so you wont get anything else out of them. Not as good feel through the rubber either. I believe Pirelli is making a 140 supercorsa now also - lots of grip, less life.

Build looks good! Have you used StompGrip before? I love the stuff. I also suggest having extra clip on bars on hand. They're usually $15 each.

[Cabecinhas]

Race fairings and a front radial brake master cylinder that can transmite more feeling of braking.

[Qomomoko]

looks like a fun project....

front radial master sounds like a good idea.. for me too and extra clip on bars too..

[Floki]

My budgets running low for now, I figured I'd put off race fairings till later.

On rearsets, Do any of them come with solid mount pegs? Or is that an extra add on? I was wondering if any of the sets came with them.

Max, I couldn't find the SC2 in our size anywhere. I looked for a while then gave up to the Dr.

[Trailerboy531]

Originally Posted by Floki

My budgets running low for now, I figured I'd put off race fairings till later.

On rearsets, Do any of them come with solid mount pegs? Or is that an extra add on? I was wondering if any of the sets came with them.

Max, I couldn't find the SC2 in our size anywhere. I looked for a while then gave up to the Dr.

You would probably have to get the SC2 from a vendor. When you say solid mount pegs do you mean not removable?

Pretty much every brand of rearset is adjustable so that you can find the best place for the peg that fits you.

[Floki]

I mean The pegs that don't fold and you can rest on Jack stands if you need to.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Floki

I mean The pegs that don't fold and you can rest on Jack stands if you need to.

Most race/track oriented aftermarket rearsets like this. They are designed to have break points instead of folding.

[Trailerboy531]

Yep - they will specifically state they are folding if they do. Not as common.

[Floki]

I scored an area P full system off eBay, 12'' can but it is not the race exhaust. Am I going to have ground clearance issues with that? It looks low and in the stock position

[csmith12]

Your side stand and mounting tab will drag before exhuast.

[Floki]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Your side stand and mounting tab will drag before exhuast.

That's coming off too, just making sure I'll be okay with this setup.

[Trailerboy531]

By 'coming off' you mean you're taking an angle grinder to it, right? Removing the kickstand helps some but it's still pretty easy to drag that part of the frame. You can grind just under the weld there.

[Floki]

Yeah that's what I mean.

I'm working on my dampers with a file right now. This is a nice change of pace lol

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Trailerboy531

Get real rearsets not the adjusters. Stock are designed to break on the plate near the bolting point so you wont get anything else out of them. Not as good feel through the rubber either. I believe Pirelli is making a 140 supercorsa now also - lots of grip, less life.

Build looks good! Have you used StompGrip before? I love the stuff. I also suggest having extra clip on bars on hand. They're usually $15 each.

just dont crash

[Floki]

Yeah, crashing is expensive. I bought this to be a budget trackie

[Floki]

My desired preload should be 10mm since I am using adjustable caps. I can then dial in sag with the adjusters and do not need to cut the spacers specifically for my weight and desired preload. Is this correct?

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by Floki

Yeah that's what I mean.

I'm working on my dampers with a file right now. This is a nice change of pace lol

are your springs form RACETECH? if so.. you making the holes per their instructions or varying a little?

Someone on here, think trackngear said RT instructions need fine tuning fyi... I have not messed with mine yet..I got stuff from RT too..

I got the .75 kg/mm springs

[Floki]

Yes, springs and emulators from RT. I did it according to them, 6 5/16" holes

[Somchai]

Originally Posted by Floki

My desired preload should be 10mm since I am using adjustable caps. I can then dial in sag with the adjusters and do not need to cut the spacers specifically for my weight and desired preload. Is this correct?

The stock preload is 17 mm and you should compare the preload-adjuster with the stock seat of the fork spring (Partno. 44029-1127) and measure the difference in height.
So you'll see if the preload-adjuster give you more preload and if this is the case, then cut fork collar.
Also don't forget when you put the gold valves inside that the spring comes higher, resulting in more preload also.
I'd cut mine to have the ability to adjust from 12 to 20 mm.
Good luck

[Floki]

Doing jetting today and my Milwaukee offset driver broke. I got lucky as hell finding one, probably going to be a week before I get another one.

[Floki]

man I hate the stock airbox

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Floki

man I hate the stock airbox

for realz

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by Floki

Yeah that's what I mean.

I'm working on my dampers with a file right now. This is a nice change of pace lol

What do you weigh? Everyone has a preference and you can go fast on stock junk but in my experience if you cut the rods per Racetech instructions your going to need to move up in oil viscosity over 10W and your likely still going to have a few issues at the bottom of the stroke riding hard.

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

What do you weigh? Everyone has a preference and you can go fast on stock junk but in my experience if you cut the rods per Racetech instructions your going to need to move up in oil viscosity over 10W and your likely still going to have a few issues at the bottom of the stroke riding hard.

what do you recommend for weight 150 lbs and 165 lbs with gear.. 330 lbs ninja with .75 kg /mm and i think I am putting 10 wt oil Spectro.. for my Ducati s4 I was told by RT to use 5 wt.. i'll check when get home..

its pregen with new gen tubes.. but RT springs and gold valve emulators.

[Trailerboy531]

Originally Posted by Floki

man I hate the stock airbox

If you're not racing this bike and it's just a track bike then why aren't you using pod filters instead of the airbox?

[Floki]

I want to race, eventually lol.

My fork tubes off ebay that said they weren't bent, are bent. YAY

[Floki]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

What do you weigh? Everyone has a preference and you can go fast on stock junk but in my experience if you cut the rods per Racetech instructions your going to need to move up in oil viscosity over 10W and your likely still going to have a few issues at the bottom of the stroke riding hard.

I weigh 180, and I can't just make the emulators stiffer to compensate?

[Floki]

I cannot for the life of me find a straight fork on ebay. Cheapest set is 300 and I'm out 200 from the first set I bought. This really makes me want to put the old fork in, it is barely bent at all. There aren't even any depressions in the chrome

[cuong-nutz]

Hit up Dan aka @PartsNinja. I think his site's been under renovations but he's been selling on ebay for some time now. See what he can do for you. He's helped quite a few people here and other racing buddies here in the South.

How bad are the forks bent? you should be able to return the ones you bought on ebay and get a full refund. You don't want to be running bent forks ESPECIALLY on the track. You're just asking for trouble. Not sure about the legalities for your race division.

[Trailerboy531]

Yeah wtf return the bent forks. If the ad said straight and they're definitely not then return. eBay and PayPal are great about backing the buyer

[cuong-nutz]

You may be able to bend your bent tube back. Got any buddies in a machine shop with a nice press?

[Floki]

The one I have isn't bent bad at all. The smallest amount of light shines through on a flat surface and it passes through the triples a little snugly. No pits in the chrome.

I should get a return but they deduct the 15 included in price for shipping plus the return shipping.

[Trailerboy531]

No - they deduct for people who don't stand up for themselves.

Type A personalities don't pay a cent. Your choice.

[Floki]

The plan is to find a machine shop too straighten the forks, since the bend it so slight.

But I have a questions. I'm reading up on the forks across generations and they say they're all basically the same fork, just with different bodies to attach brakes/fender. Could I buy a pregen/300 straight fork, new seals etc. and swap the fork tube onto my fork body? Not sure if they're actually that much the same or not.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by Floki

The plan is to find a machine shop too straighten the forks, since the bend it so slight.

But I have a questions. I'm reading up on the forks across generations and they say they're all basically the same fork, just with different bodies to attach brakes/fender. Could I buy a pregen/300 straight fork, new seals etc. and swap the fork tube onto my fork body? Not sure if they're actually that much the same or not.

The PreGen has 36mm forks while the newer bikes have 37mm, so those won't swap in. My understanding is that the 300 has "the same" forks, so those tubes should at least fit.

I'm a bit curious about swapping some NewGen/Gen2 500 fork parts around too. However, the 500 lists 5.1" of travel while the NewGen only lists 4.7". I'm wondering which part(s) create that travel limit, and if swapping some of the NewGen parts in would reduce my travel.

[Floki]

I found a machine shop that said they have done it plenty of times. Also, I got the full refund on those forks and the guy said keep them so I have an extra set for the guy to straighten if he messes up. Hell yeah!

[cuong-nutz]

That's good. That's usually the scenario. Good luck!

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by Floki

I weigh 180, and I can't just make the emulators stiffer to compensate?

unfortunately no, emulator adjustments really only work on compression - and high speed compression at that - the issue is really rebound related.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

what do you recommend for weight 150 lbs and 165 lbs with gear.. 330 lbs ninja with .75 kg /mm and i think I am putting 10 wt oil Spectro.. for my Ducati s4 I was told by RT to use 5 wt.. i'll check when get home..

its pregen with new gen tubes.. but RT springs and gold valve emulators.

Are the emulators installed per the RT instructions? Generally most people (myself and my brother whose suspension we installed ourselves included) around the paddock have found that the 10w oil with the RT GVE installed per instructions did not have enough rebound dampening, with a severe lack at the very bottom of the stroke.

Depending on your riding style, your weight, and your spring selection it may not be a huge deal. But we found that a a heavy rider that really pushed the front deep into its stroke had issues at the bottom. Heavy oil (25-30W) when GVE installed per instructions helped but made the action a bit sluggish in other areas. A new set of damper rods, modified differently allowed correction for most of the bottom of stroke issues with a lighter (15W I think) fluid.

It is going to be personal experience and preference to some degree though.