Does this sound like dirty carbs/air filter?

[Chazeman2]

Hey guys/gals,

I pulled my 2004 ninja out of storage this past weekend and was having a problem. The bike started up quickly and only needed a little choke for about a minute. The problem is when I would come to a stop if I didn't keep on the throttle it would die the second I fully stopped. Is this a classic symptom of something?

Weather was on the chilly side at about 50 degrees. The only other time this has happened was before I stored it last year when the weather was between 30 and 50 degrees f.

unfortunately I have not been able to ride it in warmer temps yet. My idle is currently set to 1400rpm, it used to be set to 1700 when I purchased it last summer, but would start to overheat in traffic. Not sure what other info to give so please let me know.

[csmith12]

Welcome Chase!

Classic symptom of obstructed idle jets. Maybe a product (seafoam or equivalent) and some riding might clean it out. If not... time for a carb cleaning.

Good luck!

[Chazeman2]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Welcome Chase!

Classic symptom of obstructed idle jets. Maybe a product (seafoam or equivalent) and some riding might clean it out. If not... time for a carb cleaning.

Good luck!

Hey thanks smith, I was just looking up sea foam and think this will be my first option. compared to other threads I've read my problem is not nearly as bad as some so hopefully it works. Thanks!

[Kscreations08]

Had this same problem when I brought my bike out for the start of the riding season. If it's a minor blockage, it'll right itself after you give the bike a good flogging. Ramp those RPMs and ride through all the gears as hard as you can. Let her clear her throat ya know?

[csmith12]

I assumed you checked your airbox/filter too right? Critters (mice) or bugs could have made it their home during storage. Have a peek if you haven't already.

[jkv45]

Did you fill the tank to the top (ethanol-free gas is the best - especially for storage), add stabilizer, and drain the floatbowls before storing?

If not, before taking things apart, I'd drain and refill with fresh gas. 87 without ethanol is your best choice if you can get it, but I will use whatever is the lowest grade available without ethanol.

I personally like Techron Concentrate fuel system cleaner the best. Add to the fresh gas at 1 oz per gal and run a tank through it if it's running good enough to safely ride.

You may need to pull the carbs and clean the jets if there was untreated fuel sitting in the floatbowls over storage. If you do, read the procedures carefully or you'll miss some of the important details and have to do it all again.

Another note if you pull the carbs. Be sure to remove the caps covering the idle mixture adjustment screws (and take out the screws to clean the passages). That will let you make fine adjustments to the idle mixture later. 2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point. Typically they are set too lean from the factory (turned in). That may help you with idle issues also, as cold temps and gas with ethanol will both make the engine run lean, so making an adjustment may be required. Also note that any idle mixture adjustments made for improved cold-temp running won't be correct in the heat of the summer.

Running summer-blend gas in cold weather, or winter-blend gas in warm weather, will also give you running problems so make sure the gas you have in the tank is correct for the current temp.

[Yarhj]

It does sound like you may have slightly dirty pilot jets, but cleaning out the carbs is a bit of a pain, and sometimes clogs like this will clear themselves up with a bit of use. Ride it and see what happens! If you do decide to pull the carbs to clean them out, consider doing n4mwd's battery box mod, to make getting the carbs in and out much easier (it was quicker for me to do the battery box mod, remove the carbs, and replace the carbs, than it was to just remove the carbs without doing the mod). If you'd rather not start hacking bits and pieces off your bike, you could do the job the right way and unbolt the rear fender, but that's a bit more work.

Personally, I wouldn't bother pulling the carbs unless it still threatens to stall after 5-10 minutes of riding. My motorcycle also threatens to stall without just a bit of throttle when it first starts up (especially on colder days), but after it's properly warmed up it idles perfectly happily.

[hobosmeller]

just wondering if any of the suggestions provided helped you, Chazeman. I think I might be having a similar situation.