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Old September 3rd, 2021, 12:29 PM   #1
BonelessSugar
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'92 rebuild

Bike was last inspected in 2011, I am at least the 4th owner, got it for $220.


Stuff that bike needs:
  • clutch cable installed
  • fairing welding or zip-ties
  • random broken or missing bolts (sprocket cover, lower battery)
  • missing rear license assembly and turn signals
  • fender bolt kit
  • side covers

front tire (2004)


carb damage fixed (metal damage on airbox side and melted rubber)


air intake box (had pod filters with screws, hence carb)


gas tank rust (also has dents, I think I'm fine with that)



gas tank rubber mounts (someone used garden hose)


brake fluid (it's orange now)


oil leak(s) (there's a small hole on the left side of the engine that I think it's coming from, I think it's called a weeping hole for coolant or something)


right front foot peg replacement (about half the length it should be)


removal of switches from cowl

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Old September 3rd, 2021, 12:30 PM   #2
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Possible things that need to be done:
  • wire tracing (there's random wires that don't go anywhere)
  • battery (was only half full of acid, filled it up and charging now. It read 1V so I'm confident it's toast)
  • chain tension (seems too tight)
  • paint (I think it was originally blue, but has been painted at least twice)
  • fork oil (I've never done that before)
  • new carb needles (assuming because of the pod filters that it is jetted)

clutch lever housing replaced (stripped threads)



battery tie-downs (I think a box or something exists, I don't have one)


exhaust brackets (wedged with a bolt to hold pressure...)


fork seals (they're cracked)

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Old September 3rd, 2021, 12:30 PM   #3
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Good news:
  • no frame damage
  • new headlight

new rear tire (2017)


engine was replaced at some point (writing on valve cover)


dash lights up and horn works



Unknowns:
  • engine condition (if it runs at all)
  • transmission (don't know if it does anything past 1st and neutral
  • when buying the airbox, a Front Air Box Airbox Mount Bracket popped up and I don't think I have one of those

What's on the way right now:
  • (in) side covers ($35 left, $24 right)
  • (in) fairing hardware ($22)
  • (in) front tire (shinko 740) ($60, doesn't include mounting)
  • (in) airbox assembly ($53)
  • (in) air filter (airbox came with one, wasn't aware) ($12)
  • (ON)(in) fuel tank dampers (2) (bought the wrong ones... 92075-1690 instead of 92075-1115) ($18) + ($21)
  • (ON)(in) battery tender ($26) and extension cord ($5)
  • (in) J-B weld (steelstik) for carb and clutch lever housing ($8)
  • (in) The Works toilet bowl cleaner for tank ($3)
  • fairing bushings ($7)
  • (ON)(in) clutch locknut and adjuster ($7)
  • (ON)(in) oil (t6 15w40 1gal) ($22) and filter (wix 24941) ($8)
  • (in) PVC ABS cement ($8) (fairing tab)
  • carb gaskets (gordon) ($50)
  • Blackstone ($30)
  • (ON)(in) Horn (free)
  • (in) DOT 4 (free)
  • (in) carb spring clamps ($8)
  • (in) ultrasonic cleaner ($95)
  • (in) 2.95x2.44x1.37 rubber stopper for gas tank ($8)
  • (ON)(in) pine-sol for carb ($11)

Total running cost:
$711

Still need to buy (~$150-500):
  • front foot peg ($10) (danno)
  • (?)rear license assembly with signals ($30-60) (probably not)
  • tank rust ($10-100)
  • (?)tank dent ($5-70) (don't know if it matters)
  • (thinking about going white, green, or yellow) paint and decal ($50)
  • (?)exhaust ($30) (danno said use hose clamp, have it on right now, will know when bike starts)
  • fork dust caps ($20)
  • engine/carb stuff ($50-200)
  • Taillight left screw ($1)
  • Clutch switch screw ($1)
  • shorty levers (don't like the stock ones and bottom of clutch lever is ground down) ($30-60)
  • bent right handlebar ($10) (Danno)

Still need to do:
  • steelstik carb
  • sand carb
  • clean carb (pinesol, ultrasonic, b12, carb clean)
  • assemble carb
  • adjust carb
  • plastic weld (danno post)
  • mount plastics
  • gas tank dent (slide hammer)
  • gas tank rust (The Works, replace if needed)
  • handlebars back on
  • controls back on
  • cables back on
  • battery situation (finish bracket, see about tie downs)
  • airbox
  • front foot peg on
  • brake bleed
  • solenoid mount
  • coolant? (use temp pump)
  • wrap harness
  • front tire mounted (self or call local)
  • check chain tension
  • taillight screw
  • clutch bolt
  • spark plug cover?

Last futzed with by BonelessSugar; September 19th, 2021 at 08:53 PM.
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 12:34 PM   #4
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If anyone knows how to make these images not look huge, that'd be cool.
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 01:10 PM   #5
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Coming along nicely! Thanks for awesome documentation and photos!!!


To insert-images with auto-resize to window-width:

1. click on resize icon in tool-bar

2. click on image icon in tool-bar . Then paste your image URL

Final code will look like this:

[ resize ] [ img ] <image URL> [ /img ] [ /resize ]


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Old September 3rd, 2021, 01:42 PM   #6
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I was reading a reply Alex left on another thread someone had asking about resizing. I think that if I want anything other than the automatic 1000x wide resize then I have to manually change the size of each image.

I ended up changing most of them to 600x on their largest dimension, hope it looks better.

Mostly doing this because on my phone it wasn't resizing the images occassionally.

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Old September 3rd, 2021, 04:37 PM   #7
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Can't check engine compression because the bike doesn't engage the starter. Starter switch on, in neutral, kickstand up, different battery hooked up. No click or anything. This forum says that compression should be 139-218psi (-14.7atm).

Turn signals work, rear brake light works. Headlight doesn't work, front brake light doesn't work.

Looks like I'm going to pull apart the loom and grab a wiring diagram.
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Old September 3rd, 2021, 09:18 PM   #8
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Here's simplified schematic showing just starter circuit. Note that clutch-switch plays key role in ground side of starter-relay. Needs either:

1. clutch lever out AND neutral-switch grounded (green on dash)

OR

2. clutch lever squeezed in


If clutch-switch is not plugged in, is defective or wiring corroded/broken, start circuit won't work. You want to measure for continuity to chassis-ground on Y/G wire between clutch-switch and starter-solenoid. It should be grounded when either #1 or #2 above is true.



As quick test to confirm power side of starter circuit is OK, you can short big power-terminals on starter-solenoid with some needle-nose pliers (be sure bike is in neutral 1st). Starter should spin engine just fine. Shows issue is with the control side of circuit. Most likely clutch switch or its wiring.


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Old September 3rd, 2021, 10:26 PM   #9
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Here's headlight circuit. Key ON, will not turn on headlight. Very ingenious design where headlight is off until engine is running.


1. With key ON, power from ignition-switch goes to headlight-relay's power-input terminal (top-right)

2. BUT, NO power goes into headlight-relay's activation-coil (top-left). Note 2x diodes pointing to relay's activation coil input.

3. One diode (left Y wire) takes AC pulses from alternator and rectifies it to +DC pulses when engine is spinning

4. +DC pulses then activates headlight-relay's coil, relay-switch closes and sends +12v to output terminal, which then turns ON headlight

5. output of relay also comes back around on 2nd diode and self-powers (latches ON) headlight relay, headlight stays on for good once relay turns on.

6. to turn OFF headlights, power is removed from headlight-relay's power-input terminal when ignition-switch is turned off. So when you stop engine with kill-switch, headlight-relay stays on (self-latching), thus headlight stays on. Have to remove ALL power to everything by turning off ignition-switch.


NOTE: Where's ground for headlight-relay coil? Other side of coil goes to starter-relay B+? If you aim +12v --> <-- +12v, nothing would flow, how does headlight-relay coil get activated??? Ground of headlight-relay coil actually doesn't go to power side of solenoid that powers starter, but power side of activation coil.... which then connects on other side of coil.... to GROUND!. So you have two coils in series. What happens is starter-solenoid's coil is of much lower impedance and drops most of voltage in series circuit. Higher impedance coil in headlight-relay then sees connection to starter-solenoid's coil as pretty much ground and enough current flows to activate headlight-relay.


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Old September 4th, 2021, 06:24 AM   #10
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Starter cycles by solenoid so I just jumped it for now.

Left 73psi dry
Left 96psi wet

Right 122psi dry
Right 157psi wet

I used a wet amount of 3/4 tsp oil from here. So they're all low, and range is supposed to be 139-218psi and 125psi to run. This makes me think it's just been running on one cylinder for a while... However, I didn't open throttle at all. For reference, my TW is 122 dry, and its range is 114-149. As a result, I'm not going to subtract 14.7psi for each for ATM because of the output of my TW.

One plug has a screw cap on the top and the other doesn't. Both are Autolite instead of NGK.

Going to trace the harness and rewire so I can get ignition and starter going at the same time and try some starter fluid and see if it can actually start up at all. If it does then great, if not then I'll need to read some more in the wiki or forums and figure out what I need to start with.

Battery is all charged up, 12V 9A. Had to take out some acid I added to equalize all the levels. Going to see if it maintains a charge.

Pumped rear tire from 10psi to 32psi.

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Old September 4th, 2021, 11:20 AM   #11
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That's way too much power to charge battery, may have fried it. Typically want to charge at 0.1 capacity or less than 1-amp. Measure voltage of battery to determine if it's fully charged and holding.


Compression looks pretty good for bike that's been sitting for 10-yrs, eh? This is gauge-pressure, so no need to subtract 1atm=14.5psi @ sea-level. Will be better with warm engine and WOT.

Try squirting some PB-Blaster in to free up rings, crank 2-3x and let sit for 4-5hrs. Then re-do compression test with WOT.


While waiting, inspect cam-timing and valve-clearance adjustment. With wear & tear, valve clearance decreases and prevent valves from closing fully. Lowers compression and risks frying exhaust valves. Looks like you may have caught it in time if you adjust now.

For exhaust pipe clamp with bolt as shim, you can just replace with hose clamp.


Most likely carbs will need complete disassembly down to every last nut, bolt and individual components for restoration to factory fresh clean. Scrub out all secret hidden petrol passages. Ultrasonic soak and micro soda-blast. Search for "clean carbs ducatiman" for similar threads with photos!


Coming along nicely and awesome job! I love to see these fun bikes restored and used instead of going to crushers. They're so much fun!

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Old September 5th, 2021, 11:25 AM   #12
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Battery was charged at 12V 1.25A (battery tender plus), battery itself is 12V 9A, sorry for the confusion. I think it's holding a charge now, left it off the charger all day yesterday and it only took a minute or two to get back to full. So good news.

Cam-timing results is the correct 33 pins:






Valve-clearances were really annoying to figure out. I just gave it a real good estimate with the lobe being as open as I could get it (the third pic), which was done by finding the point of engagement and disengagement of the lobe (the first two pics). Going by intake and exhaust on the last pic, that means at least 3/8 of them are out of spec and I should adjust 6/8 of them (so all except the labeled "3" intake valves). Valve adjusting screw locknuts is 17 Nm (aka 150in lb) from here. Used the guide here.
Quote:
The gap for the intake valves should be between 0.08mm and 0.13 mm
The page goes on to say that you want them on the loose end instead of the tight end.
Quote:
The gap for the exhaust valves should be between 0.11mm and 0.16mm






Also I found some red gunk through the sight hole, really not sure what it is.


And there was some coolant on top of the rear of the seal for the valve cover gasket.

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Old September 5th, 2021, 12:58 PM   #13
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Yeah, those tight valves on #1 probably contributed to your low compression numbers. I usually don't follow manual's cam-orientation when measuring valves. I just turn cam to aim lobe away from rocker, that way I know for sure I'm measuring maximum clearance.

I use one of these tools to adjust clearance. Cinch it down 1/2-way with lever. Then do final round at very end with torque-wrench.



Engine looks clean, no sludge or brown-coating from using dino oil, it may have been well cared for. Not sure what that red is, have you drained oil to look at it?
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Old September 5th, 2021, 01:13 PM   #14
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Apparently I had the wrong valve clearance measurements. When I went under the left (T2) exhaust valve set with the shim while turning the crank, I noticed that there were spots that were bigger than where I shimmed (0.23mm instead of the 0.15mm I had set it to). The exhaust valve's largest clearance was more like right before the valve started to open instead of in the middle of open and close like I assumed. I should've taken my measurements from TDC on T1 (cylinder 1) and T2 (cylinder 2) with a full rotation of the cylinder (so T1 = "1" then "3" after 1 full rotation) due to 2 rotations per combustion cycle. I just reshimmed the valves. I used 70in-lb for the valve cover torque from here because I wanted a number. When adjusting valves, all I did was loosen the locknut with 9mm and 1/4 extension, then use a screwdriver to loosen or tighten the screw. No need to hold the locknut or anything. Then tighten back down by hand and check that the shim still stayed the same (they all did), then torque down and check shim again. Also, I had to unbolt the radiator fan to get my torque wrench in the right (cyl 1) exhaust ports. Used 2 flashlights.



When undoing and redoing the covers for the case, I had to get far into my coin with the vice grips because it started to bend when taking them off.



Haven't drained oil yet because I don't have any to refill it with if I want to try to start it soon. Assuming that it's been sitting for a long time, it'd want to be changed anyways. 15w-40, right? anything specific? same with filter, just don't use a K&N and try for Wix? I have about 1.3qt of 10w-40 from when I was working on a ninja 500, which is the oil I used for compression testing.

Red looked like some rust got in grease and dirt in there on top of a bolt head. It's really hard to take a picture of it and get enough lighting to see anything within the case, that's the best of 5 pictures I tried to take.

Bad news though, when turning the engine over by hand after applying penetrating fluid to the cylinders, the crank bolt loosened on me. I tightened it back until it started to spin the front sprocket and gave it a few more taps. Not quite sure how to fix that, and I don't want to run a compression test with a possibly loose crank bolt.

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Old September 5th, 2021, 03:45 PM   #15
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If you have impact wrench, zap crank bolt with that.
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Old September 5th, 2021, 04:33 PM   #16
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impacted crank bolt. headlight is also now on for some reason, high beam does work.

Compression test:

left 90 dry (+13)
left 112 WOT dry
left 131 WOT wet (+35)

right 119 dry (-3)
right 98 WOT dry
right 171 WOT wet (+14)
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Old September 5th, 2021, 04:56 PM   #17
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That's awesome! much better compression numbers!

Sometimes it's possible to spin engine fast enough with starter to turn headlights on, even if it doesn't start. Headlight relay has no idea what's spinning engine, either starter or actual combustion.
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Old September 7th, 2021, 02:11 PM   #18
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Alright, here's the electrical breakdown. Wiring diagram I used. "EX250 Wiring Schematic".

Ignition only has 5 wires instead of 7 that I can find:
  1. red
  2. white
  3. yellow
  4. blue
  5. brown

Cooling fan was disconnected and tried to connect to the switches on the cowl. I'm thinking they did that just for safety purposes? I pulled the wires off and plugged it back in via the factory connections.

LH handlebar has an extra wire (9 instead of 8). Blue/Brown.

Ignition pickup is at the alternator, instead of on the opposite side of the bike like the diagram seems to describe.

Front turn signals have 3 wires instead of 2, so I'm not sure how they connect.
Signal side:
  1. Red
  2. Black
  3. Black/White
Harness side:
  1. Gray (power)
  2. Black/Yellow (ground)



Junction box has only 4 fuses instead of 7, and has only 14 wires instead of 17 in the diagram.
Bike extra:
  1. Black
  2. Teal
  3. Blue
Diagram extra:
  1. Green
  2. Black/Red
  3. Brown/Gray
  4. Orange/Green
  5. Brown/Blue
  6. White/Green



Where are the wires for the tail lights that are not next to the brake lights? eBay posting of what I mean. I only have the 3 brake light/tail light combo at the top (bottom pic).





How is the starter solenoid supposed to be mounted?



Starter button now spins over the bike. I think I fixed it by securely mounting the clutch handle switch.

Rear brake light handle wires were loose. Securely connected and now the tail light works.

Head lights are off like they're supposed to be now. They turn on when I turn the engine over.

Spark plugs spark off the block, so that works.

Next step is setting up some sort of gravity feed to the carb (don't know how, need to look that up). Carb fuel line is blocked with mud. Could also just spray starter fluid without any fuel setup?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Wiring_Schematic_-_R4.pdf (373.7 KB, 2 views)
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Old September 7th, 2021, 02:32 PM   #19
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I use my soldering kit with rubber to melt sections into the broken plastic bits of the fairings. This kit. It makes it a little brittle, but way better than nothing. I usually sand it afterwards. Have about 10 spots to do, mostly done with this first one.



Punched out the front foot peg, still having a hard time finding a replacement for less than $20 for one OEM peg. Any recommendations for an aftermarket set?


Punched out the rear peg because it was stuck. Lubed it up and cleaned up rust on the inside a little (not a lot). Works just as well as the other side, now.



Absolutely no idea what this is. It's part of the throttle, but was never connected. The throttle is taken apart right now and I'm having a tough time putting it back together at the handle.


This right handlebar looks bent.


Fork seals are worse than I thought. No leaks yet, though.
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Old September 7th, 2021, 02:59 PM   #20
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You're just seeing the dust caps. The fork seals are below.
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Old September 7th, 2021, 03:04 PM   #21
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Was reading through dan's thread and decided I'd take a spin at my engine year and chassis year.

Thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by frostyflammable View Post
Just did a closer look on the engine. Does this mean the engine is from a 1987?

—Dan
Here's the FAQ he was referring to.

I've got EX250EE002xxx, which means 1986.

Chassic lookup

Says I've got a 1992.



Ah, thanks for the clarification on dust caps and fork seals!
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Old September 7th, 2021, 04:50 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
Where are the wires for the tail lights that are not next to the brake lights?
They were empty from the factory. You can install bulbs there and connect the turn signals if you want. Also, let me know if you're still looking for that turn signal/license plate fender assembly. I have that and like a million other parts if you need anything.

Loving the progress!
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Old September 7th, 2021, 07:26 PM   #23
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Hey, great work on plastic repair!!!

Be careful with 250FAQ as it has numerous errors.

You’ve got EX250F5 model and major wiring changes happened in 1994 F7 model. That F9+ diagram has numerous changes from what’s on your bike. The addition of grey wire to ignition circuit being one example. You don’t have to worry about that or 100-ohm resistor in ignition circuit.

Also ignition pickup is on left side. It senses bumps on flywheel which covers alternator’s stator.


Hook clutch cable’s ball-end into clutch lever clevis. Then cable-housing & adjuster goes into stop on engine cover. Clutch cable’s other end attach to left lever on bars. Before doing any of that, drip oil down inner wire of clutch cable at upper end and floss ends back and forth until oil dribbles out lower end.






I’ve got some spare foot pegs I can send you. Also a straight handlebar in exchange for your bent one. I repair/weld them and have on shelf to exchange.
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Old September 7th, 2021, 07:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
Next step is setting up some sort of gravity feed to the carb (don't know how, need to look that up). Carb fuel line is blocked with mud. Could also just spray starter fluid without any fuel setup?
Donít! Ether in starter fluid will melt your carb diaphragms and cause you even more trouble. Unless you plan on riding bike with IV drip bottle for gas tank, just clean carbs and all fuel lines properly so they are factory-fresh clean. Saves tonnes of time having to rip out carbs over and over again for ever deeper cleaning. Do full disassembly and restoration job on carbs 1st time around.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 10:54 AM   #25
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Carbs are off, need to find a thread or something explaining cleaning procedure (prob ducatiman), I've only ever done a single by guessing. Wiki says that 250-E and 250-F carbs are different, so I'm wondering if I have 250-E carbs or not since 1986 engine in 1992 frame (going to assume 250-f carb). cvk30 vs 32. Measured the inner diameter on the engine side of the carb, came out to about 31mm.

I've been reading through other threads on carb problems on here, and it seems like there's a bunch of things that could go wrong that aren't even directly part of the carbs. Unclean fuel lines, petcock issues, intake tubing micro-tears... I'm just planning on bringing it all back to stock if things already aren't, and then anything past that I'd probably ask about like suspension or jetting (but from reading threads, sounds like jetting for power isn't really a thing on these bikes).

For some reason there's two cables coming out of the throttle handle, so I'm a little stumped there.


Spark plug cap(?) is the wrong shape, dunno how much that matters.


Right handlebar isn't bent that bad, can probably rebend it in my vice. However, the bar-end weight screw was totally shredded. Maybe need to drill it out or just take a grinder to it if I ever want to take it off, but I don't need to yet and don't see the need in the future so I'll probably leave it alone unless there's an easier way. Obv red locktite on the bolt.



I snapped one of the super thin screws holding the clutch sensor onto the clutch handlebar housing (these probably aren't the terms). Need to get a new one anyways because I don't have something to TIG the inside to fill and then drill and tap the hole. If there's another solution I could do (maybe use the steelstik I have for the carb) to fix that? Lemme know your thoughts. Might swap to shorty levers, too, since I don't wanna use this shaved lever.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 11:40 AM   #26
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A little heat from gas torche will soften-up red Loctite. Then use impact-screwdriver with hammer to remove.

One cable pulls throttle open. Other cable pulls throttle closed. Are you missing right-hand electronic controls cover which contain cable guides? Be sure to lube cables before assembling. Video here:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=222352


Bent bar with rust underneath may snap when you bend it back. What I do after it breaks off is square up end with grinder, clean up mating surfaces and weld back on. In some easier cases, it’ll only crack 1/2-way around. So I’ll clean up crack really well and braze it over for smooth finish.

Of course you’ll find lots of posts where people increase jet size and get better performance, but that’s because they didn’t fully clean their carbs and larger jets just compensate for clogged dirty carbs. Improved performance (back to stock power) won’t last long as dirty carbs will continue to accumulate varnish and continue clogging further and further.

You can actually pick up quite a lot of power by leaning out main jets 2-3 sizes on factory-fresh clean carbs. Factory jetting is pig rich and fouls plugs horribly if you spend any significant amount of time at WOT.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 12:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
A little heat from gas torche will soften-up red Loctite. Then use impact-screwdriver with hammer to remove.
heated the loctite, the threads were just too mangled for me to get them off. Dremeled, then heated, then hammered ph3 in for impact. Came out great.

Quote:
One cable pulls throttle open. Other cable pulls throttle closed. Are you missing right-hand electronic controls cover which contain cable guides? Be sure to lube cables before assembling. Video here:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=222352
the cable farthest from the engine wasn't attached, ok. I have the controls cover, but I don't know if it's the OEM. Probably will still work, anyways, so nbd.


Quote:
Bent bar with rust underneath may snap when you bend it back. What I do after it breaks off is square up end with grinder, clean up mating surfaces and weld back on. In some easier cases, it’ll only crack 1/2-way around. So I’ll clean up crack really well and braze it over for smooth finish.
gotcha, looks like something I'm not willing to do myself at this point. will probably send you mine, then.

Quote:
You can actually pick up quite a lot of power by leaning out main jets 2-3 sizes on factory-fresh clean carbs. Factory jetting is pig rich and fouls plugs horribly if you spend any significant amount of time at WOT.
mostly 50-60mph, but have lots of hills.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 12:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
I snapped one of the super thin screws holding the clutch sensor onto the clutch handlebar housing (these probably aren't the terms). Need to get a new one anyways because I don't have something to TIG the inside to fill and then drill and tap the hole. If there's another solution I could do (maybe use the steelstik I have for the carb) to fix that? Lemme know your thoughts. Might swap to shorty levers, too, since I don't wanna use this shaved lever.
You can try filling and tapping. What I've done in this case is drill and tap for next size larger thread M6, and slightly enlarge hole in switch.
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Old September 8th, 2021, 12:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
You can try filling and tapping. What I've done in this case is drill and tap for next size larger thread M6, and slightly enlarge hole in switch.


This is what I was referring to filling, not the tiny screw hole (that hole is fine, only broke the screw), sorry. This takes the threads for the clutch cable, so afaik it has to be the same size, that's why I was saying trying to fill it in and tap it again instead of just drilling it out and making larger threads. Stuck some steelstik in there, gunna let it sit and drill and tap later. Can't make anything worse at this point.



^ this feels useless though, because the clutch cable doesn't have threads



So now my question is why are there even threads?

Because it's supposed to have this stuff, too.



Looks like 11 threads in 1/2in. Also found the screw I broke on here, too.



M8 x 1.25 then. Used 17/64 drill-bit. Drilled, cut threads, cleaned up excess steelstik. Filled in spots where the threads were low, too. Now I just hope it can hold the lock and adjuster.




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Old September 9th, 2021, 10:45 AM   #30
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hey good job on clutch-lever perch repair! I usually add extra metal powders to mix for additional machining strength. If threads doesn't hold, you'll find that adjuster lockring is all you need, but it may creep over time if adjuster's not tight inside hole. You can always use steel case-saver insert for VW Bug!

https://socalautoparts.com/product/c...rt-12mm-x-8mm/

After threading M12 hole, use red Loctite to bond, then cut cable-slot. Be sure to round off sharp metal teeth at edge of slot, it'll grind away at your cable until it snaps. This is due to cable being moved in an arc due to rotation of lever around pivot. Some MTB levers are pretty trick with cam mechanism to pull cable linearly.
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Old September 9th, 2021, 11:12 AM   #31
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Lower part of front fairing has a broken tab. Tips on fixing it? I made sure all the plastics I bought a few days ago had their tabs, probably like 95% of being sold didn't have them all.

Might just cut some metal for a tab and flush mount a bolt? Not sure.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_20210909_140749.jpg (57.0 KB, 3 views)
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Old September 9th, 2021, 01:09 PM   #32
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Plastic is ABS and numerous methods exist for repairing it. I usually have extra fairing-scrap that I'll cut up and attach to replace broken tabs. Lego blocks are also made from ABS and can be used as welding filler.

Eastwood - plastic repair kit

some tips from forums:
https://advrider.com/f/threads/repai...ts-etc.587402/
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plasti...ith_ABS_cement
https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/diy...irings.302033/
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=201330

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old September 10th, 2021, 04:33 PM   #33
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Gunna pick up some abs cement for the plastic clip I made, then.
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Old September 11th, 2021, 02:47 AM   #34
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Be sure to sand off all paint from mating surfaces. Want to have bare ABS for the cement to melt ABS together.

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Old September 11th, 2021, 02:36 PM   #35
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Disassembled carb. Doesn't look that bad, just a little gummy and some corrosion on the spring from old gas. I have stabilizers and also have an ethanol-free station nearby for the winter, haven't used either yet. Here's the results. Cylinder 2 on the left, Cylinder 1 on the right. 40 pilot, 105 main. Dunno if there's other numbers I missed. Image quality on small parts isn't great because I didn't use a macro lense with a DSLR, just my phone. So be it. Most of the screws were a little mangled by someone else (NBD, happens a lot), and ended up preferring philips generally over the pozidriv for grip.

Other thread (and Ducatiman) says stock pilot is 38 (for CVK30). Might be different from what I need because engine is '86 instead of '92, so it has some changes.

Quote:
The carburetor diameters were reduced 2 mm to 30 mm (1.2 in), the cylinder compression ratio was increased from 12.0:1 to 12.4:1, ignition timing advance was increased
Ducatiman said these are CVK30 instead of CVK32 for '86 engine because plastic slides instead of metal.

Picked up B-12 (chemtool) and have carb cleaner (CRC) lying around. Might end up getting a ultrasonic cleaner, but a couple friends have told me that they haven't worked well for them in the past.















Philips VS pozidriv (guessing)


gotta see how many washers the needle jets have tomorrow, might be writing on them too. N161 or something. sand down the airbox side openings, and steelstik the damage. more plastic welding, too. see what size the allen head is and get a socket, prob m4. wonder if there's a torque spec. and look into mounting front tire.

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Old September 11th, 2021, 08:19 PM   #36
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Yes, JIS screwdriver is what you need. Good job on disassembling, so easy to mess things up. You can replace all those screws with allen-head ones like ducatiman does on his refurb jobs. Makes for easy assembly & disassembly without worrying about stripping screw heads.
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Old September 14th, 2021, 10:14 PM   #37
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Was reading through dan's thread and decided I'd take a spin at my engine year and chassis year.

Thread.


Here's the FAQ he was referring to.

I've got EX250EE002xxx, which means 1986.

Chassic lookup

Says I've got a 1992.



Ah, thanks for the clarification on dust caps and fork seals!
Can you post photo of your ignition box? Earlier 1986-87 engine had completely different ignition system than 1988+ bikes. Might be some incompatibilities here.
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Old September 15th, 2021, 10:48 AM   #38
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Ignition pic.


Tank bolt mount is about 2" too deep into tank, might try my slide hammer and Bondo the rest. Bent one of the mounts back flush.



Tire came, going to try mounting this weekend.


Swapped horn, works way better, old one was too old.


Plastic welding I was doing didn't work when I applied stress, going to try the other methods you listed.


N16i for both needles, no washers.

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Old September 17th, 2021, 10:28 AM   #39
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Changed oil. Engine had about 3.2qt of oil in it, way overfull. Wix filter, 15w40 T6 1.7qt put in. Both gaskets replaced, 4 gaskets pre-lubed, both washers replaced (I only have copper crush washers). The washer between the spring and filter was missing. 14.5ftlb torque feels really low.






Sending off sample to Blackstone because I can.


Tank dampers on

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Old September 17th, 2021, 12:41 PM   #40
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Coming along nicely!

Low-torque on oil-filter is because you only need to compress rubber slightly to seal.

Igniter is for '88-94 bikes. Take picture of left & right cases of your engine, wonder if it really is an '86. Those used an old analogue ignition system, kinda like points-style distributor on old cars.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391757818469
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373648895929

I suppose it's possible someone retrofitted newer '88-94 flywheel to your engine.
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