January 22nd, 2014, 10:47 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Some after-hibernation questions. . .
Hi everyone,
This is my first post but I've been reading for a long time and love this forum. So I bought a 2008 Ninja 250 last summer and commuted to work (round trip of 20 miles) until mid-October, then drove the car. Since mid-October, I started the bike a few times and let it run, and thankfully the battery didn't die. I started riding this week to work again and will be riding whenever the weather is decent until I start up full-time again in the spring. Anyway, just a couple of questions: 1. I start the bike on full throttle and let it run for a good 10 minutes while I finish getting ready for work. Then I throttle it down and go. Is this healthy for the bike? 2. I have stock IRC tires on at the moment and am going to be getting some new ones in the next couple of weeks (these suck on even the faintest amount of sand/gravel, which there is a lot of here in New Mexico, and not very good on rain. They feel squirrely.) I'm thinking of going with Shinko Podiums or the slightly more expensive Pirrelli Diablo II's. My riding is mainly commuting and running errands, although I'd like to do some mountain twisties this summer. What would you guys recommend? 3. Reading through the forums, I see some references to "rubbing off" the tires after mounting them. I gather that this means I have to kind of break them in for a while before I do any serious twisties, etc. But how exactly do you break them in without being terrified you're going to go into a car or guardrail on a simple left turn at the light? Is there a way to rub off the shine manually without having to ride it out? 4. Since the bike has been sitting for about 3 months or so, should I use any additive in the fuel to clean out carbs, etc? The bike starts up fine, battery is great, but when riding at speed (not really revving up anymore), I kind of hear something that sounds like the revolutions of the engine or chain or something. Just a repetitive whrr whrr whrr. It goes away when revving up after shifting, but then comes back when I level out the speed. I know these are noobish questions, but any help is appreciated. Thanks! |
|
January 22nd, 2014, 11:05 AM | #2 | |
Participant
Name: Dave
Location: South of Seattle
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Aug '15
|
Quote:
Just take it easy for the first few miles on your new tires. If the bike's running OK, you don't need to add anything to the gas. I suspect the whrr-whrr is the chain: it's probably oscillating at its dynamic resonant frequency based on speed and tightness/loosness (technobabble for "don't worry about it too much, but verify that it's in good shape and it's adjusted correctly"). |
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 11:15 AM | #3 | |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
|
Quote:
Start the bike on full throttle? I think you mean with the choke on. Is it good for the bike to idle on choke for 10 mins? Not really, the bike only needs to be warmed up enough to accept throttle input without sputtering, bucking and what not. The bike is best warmed under the load of riding it. Turn the choke off when it's no longer needed. IRC tires, yea many riders replace them asap. Some riders seek them out for their high mileage lifetime. Rubbing off?!?!? Wait, what are we talking about here? Yep, just take it easy for a few miles to "scrub in" the tires. The whrr, whrr, whrr sound is most likely your chain. Time for a cleaning a lube? Welcome again, don't mind us for the funny business. We like to have a good time.
__________________________________________________
Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School Last futzed with by csmith12; January 22nd, 2014 at 01:13 PM. |
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 12:11 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Thanks guys!
Ha ha, yes I meant full choke. As for the chain, good tips. When I bought the bike last May, I had a new chain put on. It is looking a bit dirty, though. I think a good cleaning and lubing will come in handy. Is it okay to clean it with gasoline? Someone told me that. And if it's just the first 100 miles or so that I need to be extra careful on the new tires, that's easy enough. I'd love to hear anyone's feedback on Shinko Podiums vs Diablo II's. Thanks again! |
|
January 22nd, 2014, 01:17 PM | #5 | |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
|
Quote:
Hit up the search feature, there are a ton of threads on Shinko's and Diablo's.
__________________________________________________
Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 01:36 PM | #6 |
Participant
Name: Dave
Location: South of Seattle
Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Aug '15
|
Kerosene or diesel are the "normal" cleaners. Gasoline (cheap and available) would probably work, but it is fairly nasty stuff and really flamable (as we all know). Gas might be a bit harder on the rubber O- or X-rings, too.
If you use gas, do it outside away from the house. And wear solvent-proof gloves. I should clean the chains on the ninjette and the baby KLR (that one's really dirty!): I might buy half a gallon of diesel for several cleanings. FWIW, I'm fairly new to this chain stuff, as most of my bike maintaining has been on shaft drives. |
|
January 22nd, 2014, 02:56 PM | #7 | ||||
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
||||
|
January 22nd, 2014, 03:12 PM | #8 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
After doing some searching, I think I'm going to try some of the Dupont products for the chain.
This for cleaning: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Mot...11-oz/16672660 And this for lubing: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Tef...11-oz/16672659 At $7 a bottle it's not too much of an investment, and they've gotten pretty good reviews. Quote:
Yeah, I know what you mean. It's not running as smooth as it did last summer. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it when I started it back up, and I just filled it yesterday with new gas, so it's going to be a mix of old and new. |
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 03:17 PM | #9 | |
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
|
Quote:
|
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 03:18 PM | #10 | |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
|
Quote:
__________________________________________________
Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
|
|
January 22nd, 2014, 03:37 PM | #11 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
|
Quote:
A couple other tips for proper storing and easy starting - It's a very good idea to change the oil and filter (and run for 1 min only) if it's going to sit for an extended period - and never start it up to "warm it up" during storage. After you fill the tank and add stabilizer (and change the oil) drain the floatbowls. You will need to crank some to get the fuel to flow again in spring because of the vacuum petcock, so make sure the battery is fully charged (12.6V). If the gas is summer-blend, and the temps are significantly lower than when you filled it up you'll usually have difficulty starting. You'll also have trouble if you are on the edge of running lean in the summer, as you'll be significantly leaner in cold temps. Gas with ethanol will make it leaner still. |
|
|
January 23rd, 2014, 08:04 AM | #12 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Thanks for your tips, guys.
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 12:17 AM | #13 | |
Ms. Personality
Name: CB
Location: Murvill, TN
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): Depends on the week you ask Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
I think I know what you are feeling. Better tires helped my bike tremendously. Also see what your preload is set at. At 130lbs I had mine set on the second highest setting but I rode pretty hard. Also, you shouldn't really be using your rear brake. Almost forgot. Welcome! |
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 07:55 AM | #14 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Quote:
I'm excited about the upcoming riding season. I just purchased a new helmet (AGV K-4 Evo) and got rid of the junky Bilt one I had. It felt cheap and I had the feeling my head would crack like an egg if I ever went down. This new one is a better shell and very light. I'm definitely going to get some new tires, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. After that, I want to upgrade my jacket, maybe get some riding jeans, and then a nice paint job for my bike. I'm starting the year early so come spring I will be good to go. As far as the rear brake is concerned, I use both simultaneously but now that I think of it, I'm not sure which one I use the most pressure on; I'll have to test it soon. I've always had a feeling that if I use the front brake too much, the bike's rear will jump up. . . |
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 08:07 AM | #15 | |
Ms. Personality
Name: CB
Location: Murvill, TN
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): Depends on the week you ask Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
But seriously use your front brake. There have been a million threads about it and I'm sure @csmith12 or someone like that has a technical way to explain it. |
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 08:10 AM | #16 | |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
|
Quote:
__________________________________________________
Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 08:13 AM | #17 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
|
Quote:
Practice with the front - it's the one that's going to get the job done and haul you down when it really matters. It takes a lot of front braking to lift the rear high enough to be a problem, but the rear will get light when you are really braking hard - that's a big reason the rear isn't going to do much. You need to apply the front firmly, smoothly, and progressively - but not too slowly - in order to get the best braking. A quick jab and it will lock the wheel. Get a feel for the front, and use the rear if you like, but know that when it really matters the rear is mostly along for the ride. |
|
|
January 24th, 2014, 09:20 AM | #18 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Hmm, good points. I will have to take it out to a parking lot and practice using more of the front brake. I've had a couple of near-accidents because of idiots turning onto the road in front of me, and I've had to brake hard. The back tire locked up a couple of times and started getting away from me.
Scary. |
|
January 24th, 2014, 09:49 AM | #19 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13
|
Do some searching on winter storage. There's lots of info out there.
- The reason you do not want to start it up during winter just to warm it up/charge the battery is that you get condensation in the engine. It takes a while for it to evaporate. If you don't run the bike long enough, it can cause corrosion. - Your gas is probably okay, but maybe not. Gas does go stale/create varnish/sludge/etc. This cannot be reversed, but it can be prevented by adding fuel stabilizer before storage. If your bike starts and runs, don't worry about it... just run through the old tank and put some fresh in. If it runs poorly, consider putting some fuel system cleaner (e.g. Seafoam) in to clean the carbs/jets/etc. - I've never let the engine scream up to high rpm. That CAN'T be good, but the real issue with cold engines is the wear that happens under load. Best practice is to use only enough choke to keep the engine running. As it warms, less and less will be needed. The short version of winter storage: 1) Go on one last ride to warm the engine. During that ride, fill the tank to the top and add fuel stabilizer. 2) When you get home, change the oil and filter. 3) Put the bike up on stands if you have them. 4) Clean and lube your chain, and generally clean up the bike so you don't have to do it in the spring. 5) Plug the bike into a Battery Tender. 6) Sleep well at night, because on that first glorious spring day your bike WILL start right up, run PERFECTLY and all you'll need to do is ride it.
__________________________________________________
I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem. |
|
January 24th, 2014, 11:49 AM | #20 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Han Solo
Location: Albuquerque
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274
|
Quote:
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
[motorcyclistonline] - Prepping Your Bike for Hibernation | Parking It | Ninjette Newsbot | Motorcycling News | 0 | January 23rd, 2013 10:10 AM |
Hi from CO, I have some questions? | jwaychoff | New Members | 15 | August 5th, 2012 07:12 PM |
how do you dealing with withdrawal during bike hibernation | BFisher244 | General Motorcycling Discussion | 28 | November 8th, 2011 07:41 AM |
Secret life of bikers- hibernation. | Cedilla | Videos | 9 | March 6th, 2010 02:44 PM |
[topix.net] - Pennsylvania officials talk safety as motorcycles come out hibernation | Ninjette Newsbot | Motorcycling News | 0 | April 18th, 2009 04:40 PM |
|
|