Couple simple questions..

[corksil]

Question 1 - So if the un-ridden strips on the edges of the tires aren't worn to the edges, it's reasonable to assume that nothing is in danger of dragging on the ground (yet) -- Correct?

Just went for a pretty aggressive ride and I wore the strips down to 3/8" on each side. Felt a little scary leaning the bike that far over for the first time.

Given, my butt was planted firmly on the seat and I wasn't leaning my upper body too much. Just looking for a little reassurance that leaning the bike right to the edge of the tires won't be dragging any hard parts. I have rearset-lifter brackets that raised the pegs a bit, but I'm still concerned with that kickstand touching down and spitting me onto the ground. Seems like it would be a violent get-off with little to no warning.

Question 2 - Is it correct to assume that the reason track bikes invert the shifter (1up, 5 down) -- is because that would put your toe ABOVE the shifter as you upshift through a turn.

(Pressing DOWN to upshift, which would give another 2 inches of ground clearance for the shifter because your foot was ABOVE it, instead of hooking a thick boot UNDER the shifter and sacrificing lean angle ability by the width of a toe.)

Question 3 - What would cause a carburetor to leak fuel out of the pod filter with the petcock on PRIME? (I'm thinking back to a previous issue I had and have since resolved - just trying to understand what caused it more clearly.)

I'm thinking that the only way the fuel level in the carb would get high enough to leak back out of the pod filter (and probably into the combustion chamber as well) -- is that a float didn't come up high enough to stop the fuel flowing into the carb. Probably caused by dirt/mung around the seat of the fuel inlet needle because it only appeared to happen on one cylinder.

[Simple description of the problem I had - bike started missing, bogged out, wouldn't re-start, and I turned the petcock to PRI and a few minutes later I came back and saw fuel dribbling in a steady stream out of the pod filter.]

Thanks. Hopefully all three questions are coherent and easily answered.

[Alex]

1 - Not necessarily. Depending on the tires, the preload set in the rear suspension, and the weight of the rider; it's entirely possible that the bike will grind hard parts before reaching all the way to the end of the tire profile. Especially on the left side.

2 - GP shifting allows for upshifting while still leaned over in a left hand corner. Rare occurrence, but needed every once in awhile. Upshifting needs to happen in a hurry, while downshifts are more commonly handled while straight up and down, and are typically not quite as critical to happen at an exact millisecond. While most racebikes use GP shift, there are still some top level racers that prefer standard shift.

3 - Not sure. I thought the prime setting meant that the petcock was essentially completely opened, and provided no resistance to fuel going right through.

[subxero]

^ +1

[corksil]

Thanks guys.

bump for more.

The shock is set to the stiffest preload/least sag with a 170lb rider. I don't think I've ever come close to bottoming out.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by corksil

..........Question 3 - What would cause a carburetor to leak fuel out of the pod filter with the petcock on PRIME? (I'm thinking back to a previous issue I had and have since resolved - just trying to understand what caused it more clearly.)

I'm thinking that the only way the fuel level in the carb would get high enough to leak back out of the pod filter (and probably into the combustion chamber as well) -- is that a float didn't come up high enough to stop the fuel flowing into the carb. Probably caused by dirt/mung around the seat of the fuel inlet needle because it only appeared to happen on one cylinder.

Yes, you have a leaky float-valve system.
It could be improper adjustment (level set too high), a puncture float, a float that hits the walls, a worn needle or a dirty seat.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by corksil

Thanks guys.

bump for more.

The shock is set to the stiffest preload/least sag with a 170lb rider. I don't think I've ever come close to bottoming out.

I'm 160 lbs with my shock set to the max preload and I've bottomed it lots of times, but then the pace I can ride at puts a huge load on my suspension so I'm sure my little shock thinks I weigh 250lbs. Try a few setting and pick what feels right for you and your style of riding. Remember when it comes to suspension there is no correct setting, it all a matter of opinion and I just happen to like my bikes stiff.

[OCMagnum]

Originally Posted by corksil

....Given, my butt was planted firmly on the seat and I wasn't leaning my upper body too much...

Corksil; I'm by no means an expert rider, but wanted to highlight the one sentence in your post that stood out to me and hopefully some of our resident racers will comment as well.

Maybe I read too much into that sentence, but I took it as that you were leaning the bike as far as you were comfortable doing, but did not change your body position a lot. If that is correct, I would like to suggest you read up on body positioning and how it can assist you in making more aggressive turns without leaning the bike right to the edge. While I certainly don't suggest you do a Marc Marquez during day to day riding, I feel that moving around the seat and assuming appropriate BP is an important contributor to safe riding. I know that might defeat the goal of getting rid of the the chicken strips, but for me having a little bit of them is not the end of the world.

Just my

[Ducati999]

Originally Posted by OCMagnum

Corksil; I'm by no means an expert rider, but wanted to highlight the one sentence in your post that stood out to me and hopefully some of our resident racers will comment as well.

Maybe I read too much into that sentence, but I took it as that you were leaning the bike as far as you were comfortable doing, but did not change your body position a lot. If that is correct, I would like to suggest you read up on body positioning and how it can assist you in making more aggressive turns without leaning the bike right to the edge. While I certainly don't suggest you do a Marc Marquez during day to day riding, I feel that moving around the seat and assuming appropriate BP is an important contributor to safe riding. I know that might defeat the goal of getting rid of the the chicken strips, but for me having a little bit of them is not the end of the world.

Just my

This is correct if you learn to PROPERLY lean off your bike then the bike will remain more upright during turns (moving your body weight to the inside and down lowers the center of gravity during a turn requiring less lean angle for the same radius turn) and you will never have to lean over all the way during normal sane street riding. You will also find the bike will corner more stably when you lean in correctly. This will not necessarily be the same if you are racing where maximum speed may require maximum bike lean angel but on the street getting a little off the seat will allow you to lean less and save some extra for emergency corrections when necessary

[choneofakind]

We've reached the chicken strip stage. The upgrade stage is coming soon.

Remember. Chicken strips mean nothing. Trying to lean far enough to drag hard parts is just asking to drag hard parts. Dragging hard parts is nerve wracking and dangerous

[corksil]

Yeah I really have to work on body positioning. It feels unnatural to hang off the inside. At steep lean angles I feel more natural to lean "up" over the bike and keep my weight on top of it instead of to the inside.

Also have to work on being smooth, the bike wobbles when I shift my weight around and stand on the pegs whilst doing so.

Feels like I can literally fly through turns, but I know my body positioning is wrong and my weight transfers are wobbly.

Any videos, books, literature, things to study about this? Seat time doesn't always make you a better rider.

Feels like I've plateau'd ..

[corksil]

And thanks guys, I like it when people post in my threads.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by corksil

Yeah I really have to work on body positioning. It feels unnatural to hang off the inside. At steep lean angles I feel more natural to lean "up" over the bike and keep my weight on top of it instead of to the inside.

you'll get over that once you work on anchoring yourself. Keep reading where I got that idea from.

Originally Posted by corksil

Also have to work on being smooth, the bike wobbles when I shift my weight around and stand on the pegs whilst doing so.

you're wobbly because you're giving inputs to the bars while transitioning. aka, you're using your arms to move your upper body around. Staahhppppitttt.

Read about 'knee-to-knee'. You should use your outside thigh to bring your upper body back to center, then take that knee off and use it as the inside knee. Support yourself with your knees, feet, core, and back, NOT your arms. think of your bars as dental paste without a cap. too much pressure and you blow toothpaste all over your sink. Ain't nobody got time to clean that up.

Originally Posted by corksil

Feels like I can literally fly through turns, but I know my body positioning is wrong and my weight transfers are wobbly.

Again, anchor yourself without your arms.

In your garage (or wherever) put your bike on the side stand. get on it, no hands, letting it sit on the side stand. hang 1/2 of the left butt cheek off. Lock the right thigh onto the tank, knee just under the tank lip. Weight the right ball of your foot on the peg. Get your head as far left as the clutch lever, about as far forward as the front of the tank, not quite the steering bearings. hold your weight with your core.

See how secure your body can be held on with just the outside leg? Right now, your left leg can be either floppy and out, or tucked up on the tank and supporting you, just depends on your riding style that day. This is how your weight should always be held during curvy roads. Your hands are ONLY for the controls, not to move the rider around.

now take your right thigh, and squeeze towards the center of your body,still no hands on the bars. Notice how your butt slides itself back to the center of the seat? Now you're back in the seat and both knees are on the tank. That's how you transition. no hands. no wobble.

You're mister fitness. Use it for something other than the mirror.
Remember, hold your weight like you've got no hands.


OH! and lead with your head. Once you get the hang of locking on with your legs and feet and core, getting the head off the inside and down will feel a ton more natural. Once you get the hang of it, it feels like you're literally flying over the track because your head is off the bike completely and you don't see the bike under you.


next thing you'll ask is how to get your head down far enough. That's all about the inside elbow bend/dangle, but we'll get to that later.

[Ducati999]

CHONEOFAKIND Great post all I will add is remember you go where you look so leading with proper body position keeps your head looking where you are supposed to go and your A** will follow as the saying goes

[rojoracing53]

Chone I think they are wobbly because they need to upgrade their steering head bearings to taper roller bearings, coincidently the new better bearing will solve all the other problems going on with the bike as well.

[csmith12]

^^^^ lol Jason

Trained well Chone has been, yet go faster he must.

[choneofakind]

But I get too skeeeeeeerd!

Lol jason, think them there thur bearins would add som'ore ponies too?

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

you'll get over that once you work on anchoring yourself. Keep reading where I got that idea from.



you're wobbly because you're giving inputs to the bars while transitioning. aka, you're using your arms to move your upper body around. Staahhppppitttt.

Read about 'knee-to-knee'. You should use your outside thigh to bring your upper body back to center, then take that knee off and use it as the inside knee. Support yourself with your knees, feet, core, and back, NOT your arms. think of your bars as dental paste without a cap. too much pressure and you blow toothpaste all over your sink. Ain't nobody got time to clean that up.



Again, anchor yourself without your arms.

In your garage (or wherever) put your bike on the side stand. get on it, no hands, letting it sit on the side stand. hang 1/2 of the left butt cheek off. Lock the right thigh onto the tank, knee just under the tank lip. Weight the right ball of your foot on the peg. Get your head as far left as the clutch lever, about as far forward as the front of the tank, not quite the steering bearings. hold your weight with your core.

See how secure your body can be held on with just the outside leg? Right now, your left leg can be either floppy and out, or tucked up on the tank and supporting you, just depends on your riding style that day. This is how your weight should always be held during curvy roads. Your hands are ONLY for the controls, not to move the rider around.

now take your right thigh, and squeeze towards the center of your body,still no hands on the bars. Notice how your butt slides itself back to the center of the seat? Now you're back in the seat and both knees are on the tank. That's how you transition. no hands. no wobble.

You're mister fitness. Use it for something other than the mirror.
Remember, hold your weight like you've got no hands.


OH! and lead with your head. Once you get the hang of locking on with your legs and feet and core, getting the head off the inside and down will feel a ton more natural. Once you get the hang of it, it feels like you're literally flying over the track because your head is off the bike completely and you don't see the bike under you.


next thing you'll ask is how to get your head down far enough. That's all about the inside elbow bend/dangle, but we'll get to that later.

for me, it was all about my feet. once i figured out how the outside foot can lock in, and the switch up between outside feet, it was all smooth as butter.

[corksil]

it doesnt help that i have all of my fairings removed because im still dicking with mixture screws. doesnt help that slippery jeans dont grip the tank. doesnt help that my pegs feel a little too high..

working to fix these things this morning then i will revisit this thread and reread before a ride.

rly appreciate it guys.. so how much horsepower will these bearings give me?

[csmith12]

:\

[choneofakind]

They'll give you at least 10hp

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by corksil

it doesnt help that i have all of my fairings removed because im still dicking with mixture screws. doesnt help that slippery jeans dont grip the tank. doesnt help that my pegs feel a little too high..

working to fix these things this morning then i will revisit this thread and reread before a ride.

rly appreciate it guys.. so how much horsepower will these bearings give me?

1. you dont touch the fairings when you ride the bike
2. wear leather not slippery jeans. if you still have trouble with leather, add tank grips.
3. high pegs are good. you don't want low pegs when you are turning.
4. the bearing thing is a joke making fun of old3 because he calls-wolf on steering stem bearings for basically every issue. they are nicer, but they will effect basically nothing for you.

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

In your garage (or wherever) put your bike on the side stand. get on it, no hands, letting it sit on the side stand. hang 1/2 of the left butt cheek off. Lock the right thigh onto the tank, knee just under the tank lip. Weight the right ball of your foot on the peg. Get your head as far left as the clutch lever, about as far forward as the front of the tank, not quite the steering bearings. hold your weight with your core.

OH! and lead with your head. Once you get the hang of locking on with your legs and feet and core, getting the head off the inside and down will feel a ton more natural. Once you get the hang of it, it feels like you're literally flying over the track because your head is off the bike completely and you don't see the bike under you.

By far the most useful exercise I've ever done on my bike in terms of body positioning and it makes a huge difference in how comfortable you feel taking corners at "reasonable" speeds. I agree that the feeling of flying that comes from proper body positioning where you can't see the bike anymore is fantastic. The rest of the stuff in this post is good to, Chone's got this stuff down