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Old April 15th, 2015, 08:07 AM   #1
frostyjaws
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Exclamation how to install rectifier/regulator?

been trying to find a write up or anything on installing a new rectifier/regulator on a 2008 250r ninja. Can anyone provide me with that information. please?
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Old April 15th, 2015, 08:36 AM   #2
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Its pretty basic, they are only 2 bolts that hold it in and a plug. If you need a service manual go to turbo250.com ;-)
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Old April 15th, 2015, 08:37 AM   #3
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Step 1 Locate it
Step 2 remove it
Step 3 install new one.

I believe those are pretty much bolt on and off.
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Old April 15th, 2015, 08:46 AM   #4
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Welcome Steve!

Do you mean the stator? The rectifier is super simple to replace but the stator is a more involved job.
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Old April 15th, 2015, 08:55 AM   #5
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Where is it actually located and what do i need to take off to get to it, is my main problem. lol

And no not the stator.. if this new rectifier/regulator doesnt work then ill have to replace the stator, but trying the cheaper fix first before i do the stator...
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Old April 15th, 2015, 09:11 AM   #6
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Does this help? http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...75c0/generator

Left side of the bike, under the lower fairings. (Ignore the fuel evap system mount as I doubt your bike has that.)
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Old April 15th, 2015, 10:25 AM   #7
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so do i only have to remove the fairings?
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Old April 15th, 2015, 10:39 AM   #8
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yes, remove the left fairing. if you have california evap control, take the straps off of the charcoal filter and move it out of the way. use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the VRR, unplug the connector, replace, plug back in, put everything back.
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Old April 15th, 2015, 11:16 AM   #9
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I have a stupid question? Why are you replacing the R/R?
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
I have a stupid question? Why are you replacing the R/R?

the bike mechanic told me either my rr or stator or both is faulty because my bike is not starting after i bought a new battery
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:06 AM   #11
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so i replaced the r/r and still doesnt work so i should replace the stator, what do i gotta do for that? or does anyone else have any suggestions.
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:16 AM   #12
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you need to actually diagnose the problem, not just randomly replace things until it starts working.
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:17 AM   #13
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also your mechanic is a dumbshit because neither the rectifier/regulator, OR the stator would keep the bike from starting. they would simply make the battery die after running for awhile.
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:18 AM   #14
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when you turn the keys do the gauge lights come on? have you checked the fuses?
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Old April 17th, 2015, 11:32 AM   #15
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A ninja 250 charging system is pretty much 3 major components; stator, rectifier, and battery.

Step one The Battery: Get a meter and test your battery, disconnect from bike and ensure voltage is > 10.5, if not charge it. A full charge should give slightly over/under 12v. Hook up to bike and test again, voltage should not change. Try to start the bike, while cranking then engine, watch the meter. The voltage shouldn't drop below 10.5. If it does, replace the battery (bad cell). After the bike is running, test the voltage again. The voltage should be near 14-14.5 at idle (1000rpm-1300rpm on a ninja 250). Oh, and check the acid level in the battery too.

Step two The Stator: Again you will need a meter for this test. Unplug the stator and give it a test. Don't just guess, guessing is expensive.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Step three The Rectifier: A rectifier has generally a high and low side; If the high side goes, it will allow free flowing voltage to the battery, cooking it. If the low side goes, they normally do not allow any charging voltage to the battery. This is why we did the bike running meter test at the battery. If the voltage at the battery is over 14.5, then the high side is out and it should be replaced. If the stator checks out via a meter and there is no additional voltage to the battery when the bike is running, ie it measured 12.5v or lower and it is idling at proper rpms, then the the low side is out and the rectifier should be replaced.

When in doubt, continuity tests can be used to check out the wiring (pain in the arse ). But it's the only option left. It's a really simple system in general.

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Old April 17th, 2015, 01:57 PM   #16
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image.jpg



what should dial be set on? just ran out and got a tester
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Old April 17th, 2015, 02:10 PM   #17
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For the battery voltage tests, set it to DC 50
For the stator ohm tests, set it to ADJ RX1k
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Old April 17th, 2015, 04:18 PM   #18
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the bike will start up with a charged batter and no stator and no VRR. stator and vrr are only for charging. even if the stator is shorting it would still start- it would simply blow out one of the poles on the stator and then continue on its merry way.

what you need to know is if the bike is getting power at all. when you turn on the bike with the key, do the gauge lights turn on? if not, there is an issue with how your brand new battery is connected (backwards?)
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Old April 17th, 2015, 04:25 PM   #19
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if the gauge lights come on when the bike turns on, when you push the starter button, do you hear any sound?

with the battery connected, using your volt meter on dc 20 how many volts are there at the battery? if you have a short or something it will show very low if anything and will kill your battery eventually.
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